Whitegoods Help article

Do Any Washing Machines Still Have a Hot Water Valve?

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Quick Answer

Hot and cold fill washing machines are extremely rare in 2025. Almost all modern washing machines are cold-fill only, heating water internally. A small number of specialist models – including some from Ebac – offer dual inlets, but even these only draw hot water on high-temperature programmes. For most households, a cold-fill machine is more efficient and more practical.

Many people – particularly those with solar thermal systems or an existing hot water supply – want a washing machine that can connect to hot water. Here is the honest picture of what is available, why hot-fill machines have largely disappeared, and whether they would benefit you in practice.

Why Did Hot and Cold Fill Washing Machines Disappear?

Older washing machines routinely had both hot and cold water connections, allowing them to draw pre-heated water from the household system. Over time, manufacturers moved almost universally to cold-fill only designs. This was not an arbitrary decision – there are several well-founded technical and practical reasons.

Modern machines use far less water

Contemporary washing machines use significantly less water per cycle than older models. Because the volumes involved are relatively small, heating that water internally using the machine’s own element is often more efficient than drawing it from a domestic hot water system – where much of the heat is lost through pipework before it even reaches the appliance.

Precise temperature control requires internal heating

Most everyday wash cycles now run at 30°C or 40°C, where precise temperature control is important for fabric care and detergent performance. When a machine draws hot water from an external supply, it has no reliable way to control the exact inlet temperature. Internal heaters allow the machine to reach and maintain the correct temperature accurately – improving both wash results and garment care.

Domestic hot water is often too hot – or too cool

Hot water stored in cylinders typically arrives at temperatures well above what most wash cycles require. Mixing this with cold water externally is inefficient and imprecise. With combi boilers – now the most common heating system in UK homes – drawing small volumes of hot water is particularly inefficient, as the boiler must fire up to deliver it.

Simpler installation and global standardisation

A single cold water connection reduces plumbing complexity, lowers the risk of incorrect installation, and makes machines easier to install in a wider range of property types. It also allows manufacturers to produce appliances that work across multiple global markets, many of which do not use domestic hot water systems in the same way as the UK.

Energy efficiency standards are built around cold-fill

UK and EU energy labelling regulations measure and rate washing machine efficiency based on cold-fill operation. Manufacturers optimise their designs to perform well against these standards. Hot-fill capability sits outside this framework and offers no commercial benefit in terms of energy ratings.

Are There Any Hot and Cold Fill Machines Available?

Yes – but they are very rare. As of 2025, the options are limited:

🏭 Ebac
UK manufacturer Ebac produces washing machines with “intelligent hot fill” technology, specifically designed to draw hot water from a connected supply. These are among the very few mainstream options available with genuine dual-inlet support.
🏢 Commercial machines
Some commercial or semi-commercial laundry machines offer hot and cold connections. However, these are designed for institutional use and are not practical for domestic installation in most homes.
⚠️ Budget or niche brands
Occasional models from budget or niche manufacturers have appeared with dual inlets, but availability is inconsistent and these models can be difficult to source or support with spare parts.
🔍 Check before buying
The market changes frequently. If a hot-fill machine is important to you, check current availability carefully – and confirm whether the model genuinely uses the hot supply at the temperatures you regularly wash at.
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Important limitation

Even machines with dual inlets typically only draw hot water on programmes running at 60°C or above. For everyday 30°C and 40°C washes, the machine will still rely almost entirely on its internal heater – meaning the hot-fill connection provides little or no practical benefit for most laundry.

Is a Hot Fill Machine More Energy Efficient?

This is the question most people are really asking – and the answer depends heavily on your specific hot water setup.

Hot water source Hot fill likely to help?
Solar thermal system with large, well-insulated cylinder Possibly – particularly for high-temperature washes
Combi boiler (most common UK setup) Unlikely – firing the boiler for small volumes is inefficient
Hot water cylinder (stored hot water) Marginal – heat lost in pipework often negates the benefit
Heat pump hot water system Potentially beneficial – worth investigating for high-use households

For the majority of UK households with a combi boiler, a cold-fill machine heating water internally is likely to be more efficient – not less. The assumption that using existing hot water must be more efficient does not hold in most real-world setups.

Read our detailed comparison of cold fill vs hot fill washing machines for a full breakdown of the efficiency arguments.

Can You Connect Hot Water to a Cold-Fill Machine?

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This is not recommended and should not be attempted

Modern cold-fill washing machines are engineered to receive a cold water supply. Connecting a hot water supply to a cold-fill inlet can damage internal components not rated for high inlet temperatures, interfere with temperature sensors and programme logic, void the manufacturer’s warranty, and in some cases create safety risks. Manufacturers explicitly advise against this practice.

If you previously had a hot and cold fill machine and are looking to replicate that setup with a modern appliance, the only safe approach is to select a machine specifically designed for dual-inlet use – such as those from Ebac.

When Does a Hot Fill Machine Actually Make Sense?

✅ Hot fill is worth considering if…

You have a solar thermal system generating low-cost hot water, your hot water is delivered instantly with minimal pipe heat loss, or you regularly run 60°C or higher wash cycles where the hot inlet would actually be used.

❌ Hot fill is unlikely to help if…

You have a combi boiler, you mainly wash at 30°C or 40°C, your hot water cylinder is some distance from the machine, or you are hoping for significant energy savings from everyday household laundry.

What About Hard Water Areas?

One argument sometimes made in favour of hot-fill machines is that they reduce limescale build-up, because pre-heated water from an external cylinder may have already deposited some of its scale elsewhere in the system.

In practice, limescale management in a cold-fill machine is more effectively handled through regular use of a quality descaler or water softener product. Read our guide on limescale in washing machines for practical advice on protecting your appliance in hard water areas.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I still buy a washing machine with a hot and cold water connection?

Yes, but options are very limited. Ebac is the most notable UK manufacturer currently offering machines with genuine hot-fill capability. Some budget or niche brands occasionally offer dual inlets, but availability is inconsistent. Always confirm whether the machine uses the hot supply at the temperatures you actually wash at – many only draw hot water at 60°C or above.

Why don’t modern washing machines have a hot fill?

Modern machines use far less water than older models, making internal heating more efficient than drawing from a domestic supply in most cases. Precise temperature control at 30°C and 40°C also requires internal heating. Energy efficiency standards, global manufacturing, and simpler installation have all driven the shift to cold-fill only designs. Read more in our guide on cold fill washing machines.

Is it safe to connect hot water to a cold-fill washing machine?

No. Cold-fill machines are not designed to receive a hot water supply. Doing so can damage internal components, interfere with temperature sensors, void the warranty, and potentially create safety risks. Manufacturers explicitly advise against this. If you need a machine that connects to hot water, only use an appliance specifically designed for dual-inlet use.

I have solar panels – would a hot fill machine save me money?

Potentially, if you have a solar thermal system generating low-cost hot water that is stored efficiently and delivered to the machine with minimal heat loss. However, the benefit is limited to programmes running at 60°C or above – everyday 30°C and 40°C washes will still use the internal heater regardless. Whether the saving is meaningful depends on your specific setup and how often you run high-temperature cycles.

I had a hot and cold fill machine for years – why can’t I find a replacement?

The market has moved almost entirely to cold-fill only machines over the past two decades. Manufacturers phased out dual inlets as modern detergent chemistry, reduced water volumes, and energy efficiency standards made internal heating the more practical and efficient approach. Replacement options are genuinely limited – Ebac is currently the most practical choice for a like-for-like replacement in the UK. See our washing machine buying guide for broader advice on choosing a new machine.

Does a hot fill machine reduce limescale?

There is some argument that pre-heated water has already deposited scale elsewhere in the system, potentially reducing build-up in the machine. In practice, limescale management in a cold-fill machine is more reliably achieved through regular descaling. Read our guide on limescale in washing machines for practical advice.

Looking for a new washing machine?

Our independent buying guides cover reliability, energy ratings, and performance – helping you choose the right machine for your home and water supply.

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Key limitation

Even dual-inlet machines typically only draw hot water at 60°C or above. Everyday 30-40°C washes still use the internal heater.

Last reviewed: April 2025.

Discussion

253 Comments

Grouped into 213 comment threads.

tim 3 replies Hi I was interested to read the trials of getting a cold feed washing machine. As some will know I had to get one as well, A beko WM1501W. I have tried it with just cold water and again by adding hot from the adjacent tap through the soap draw. No problem thus far though I am not sure if I reached the full 25degress C that Beko said I could feed it with (in writing). I plan to get a mixer valve so that I feed with just 25deg and perhaps a little more we wash mainly at 30. In TWO PLACES IN THE BOOK it said Page 6 First use Ensure that ther Hot and Cold connections have been made correctly.... Otherwise your laundry may come out Hot at the end of the washing process and may wear out. Page 9 Modles with a single hose............ This raises the question Why the difference. Should the debate be widened across the net??

Hi
I was interested to read the trials of getting a cold feed washing machine. As some will know I had to get one as well, A beko WM1501W. I have tried it with just cold water and again by adding hot from the adjacent tap through the soap draw. No problem thus far though I am not sure if I reached the full 25degress C that Beko said I could feed it with (in writing). I plan to get a mixer valve so that I feed with just 25deg and perhaps a little more we wash mainly at 30. In TWO PLACES IN THE BOOK it said Page 6 First use Ensure that ther Hot and Cold connections have been made correctly…. Otherwise your laundry may come out Hot at the end of the washing process and may wear out. Page 9 Modles with a single hose………… This raises the question Why the difference.

Should the debate be widened across the net??

barbara flatts

Likely replying to tim

Tim, i have been on your suggested website. I have left the subject to be put forward for debate? While there I also signed the NHS petition and posted it onto facebook.. Most people seem concerned with the temperature of machines, my big concern is insufficient water to wash and rinse clothes, is there supposed to be a visible water level because I don’t, have one. Thank you.

WMUser

Likely replying to barbara flatts

@barbara flatts I’m glad to help others with ideas that I’ve thoroughly tried and tested. :)

Modern washing machines don’t do their job properly and need manual intervention to improve their lame performance, so AUTOMATIC goes straight out of the window!

Pouring jugfuls of warm water into the soap drawer will help and it only takes just a few minutes. You could add less water, start the machine again and if there’s enough water it won’t keep adding more cold water. I find it’s better to use extra warm water to cover the bottom door seal by 1 inch; this helps dilute the detergent more so it rinses off easier, it also keeps the door seal clean; I used to get white stuff on the door seal before adding the extra water and I would often notice a stray sock or something stuck on the door seal while the rest of the laundry was rotating in the drum.

I do NOT accept any of the arguments that cold fill only is better because… (list of reasons).

I DON’T want to pay extra for electricity when the washing machine has to heat stone cold water, despite having hot water available to mix. I DON’T want my clothes suffering more wear and tear in the washing machine while the water temperature is below 20C and the detergent is not even dissolved properly and not actually cleaning. I DON’T see why I should be heating cold water in 2 places at home (except using the kettle of course) and so on, and so on and so on!

Bring back the hot water valve!!

john

Likely replying to WMUser

@WMUser, many thanks for the tip. New information for me there.
Regards, John

Liz B 3 replies I have just had the hot fill / cold fill discussion with my father. As I teach people about domestic appliances for a living I thought I was in a very good position to explain why cold fill has become the predominant machine on offer. If you have a hot water tank then cold fill becomes a no brainer. When you turn on the tap in the kitchen you will see that it takes a while for the heat of the water to come through from the tank. Every meter that your tank is away from the tap, you have to remove a litre of water to get to the hot water held in the tank. For most people, this is about 15l. Even the most efficient machine that takes around 55l will not take all of that in one go - so when you start to wash, only around 10 - 12 litres maximum will go in - and this is all the cold / luke warm water between your machine and the tank. And then you end up heating it up just as if it was a cold fill. Even if you have hot water almost on demant - say with a condensor boiler, you probably have your boiler set at around 70 degrees. If you wash at 40 or even 30 you can see that you won't be using soley hot water - you would be mixing again with the cold. Mixing takes more time that heating as you have to get the temperature right. Just to confuse you all more, for most manufacturers, the final rinse is always cold - so all that lovely hot water in your tank won't be used for that part. Roughly speaking - of the 55l I mentioned above - you would be lucky if you used hot water for more than a third of the wash and because your tank is hotter than the wash (after all we don't only wash towels at 70 - most washes are the quick wash at 30 or 40 - not for environmental reasons but to prevent damage to the clothes) - you would be lucky if you used more that 5 to 8l from your actual tank - and I'm being generous here. With any domestic appliance - you simply get what you pay for. There is a play off with electronic equipment of efficiency against age. If you have a washing machine that is 10 - 15 years old you are more likely using twice the water that my 3 month old machine does. I'm on a water meter and this less water is really important to me financially. Also, the average drum size for full load 10 years ago was 4 - 5kg - now we have standard 7 - 8kg; even on integrated. So, I'm washing twice the laundry in half the water. But I'm also using less energy. And, my quick wash is one third what a machine 10 years old would be - so I get more washed, in less energy and water and it's quicker. So it saves me time and money? I win all round - even if it is cold fill. the only arguement for a hot fill is Phil's above - he has solar panels and so his hot water is free. But again, unless your storage is next to the washing machine you will end up heating the water regardless because of the meter a litre rule. (By the way, my father who was arguing for hot fill, said that he would just run the tap until it came out hot then turn on the machine to get the hot water - I'm on a meter so I'd end up losing 15 litres of water - yes I could save it for the garden but now I'm having to do so much just to save the water when all I wanted was to turn on the machine and wash some clothes late at night ...) One other thing, the reason that the quantity of washing decreases as you go to more delicate functions on a machine is because the gentler the action you need, then the more water to weight is required to 'cuddle' the laundry. Washer dryers dry on half the load of washing machines because they need more space for the clothes to tumble through.

I have just had the hot fill / cold fill discussion with my father. As I teach people about domestic appliances for a living I thought I was in a very good position to explain why cold fill has become the predominant machine on offer.

If you have a hot water tank then cold fill becomes a no brainer. When you turn on the tap in the kitchen you will see that it takes a while for the heat of the water to come through from the tank. Every meter that your tank is away from the tap, you have to remove a litre of water to get to the hot water held in the tank. For most people, this is about 15l.

Even the most efficient machine that takes around 55l will not take all of that in one go – so when you start to wash, only around 10 – 12 litres maximum will go in – and this is all the cold / luke warm water between your machine and the tank. And then you end up heating it up just as if it was a cold fill.

Even if you have hot water almost on demant – say with a condensor boiler, you probably have your boiler set at around 70 degrees. If you wash at 40 or even 30 you can see that you won’t be using soley hot water – you would be mixing again with the cold.

Mixing takes more time that heating as you have to get the temperature right.

Just to confuse you all more, for most manufacturers, the final rinse is always cold – so all that lovely hot water in your tank won’t be used for that part. Roughly speaking – of the 55l I mentioned above – you would be lucky if you used hot water for more than a third of the wash and because your tank is hotter than the wash (after all we don’t only wash towels at 70 – most washes are the quick wash at 30 or 40 – not for environmental reasons but to prevent damage to the clothes) – you would be lucky if you used more that 5 to 8l from your actual tank – and I’m being generous here.

With any domestic appliance – you simply get what you pay for.

There is a play off with electronic equipment of efficiency against age.

If you have a washing machine that is 10 – 15 years old you are more likely using twice the water that my 3 month old machine does. I’m on a water meter and this less water is really important to me financially.

Also, the average drum size for full load 10 years ago was 4 – 5kg – now we have standard 7 – 8kg; even on integrated.

So, I’m washing twice the laundry in half the water.

But I’m also using less energy.

And, my quick wash is one third what a machine 10 years old would be – so I get more washed, in less energy and water and it’s quicker. So it saves me time and money?

I win all round – even if it is cold fill.

the only arguement for a hot fill is Phil’s above – he has solar panels and so his hot water is free. But again, unless your storage is next to the washing machine you will end up heating the water regardless because of the meter a litre rule.

(By the way, my father who was arguing for hot fill, said that he would just run the tap until it came out hot then turn on the machine to get the hot water – I’m on a meter so I’d end up losing 15 litres of water – yes I could save it for the garden but now I’m having to do so much just to save the water when all I wanted was to turn on the machine and wash some clothes late at night …)

One other thing, the reason that the quantity of washing decreases as you go to more delicate functions on a machine is because the gentler the action you need, then the more water to weight is required to ‘cuddle’ the laundry. Washer dryers dry on half the load of washing machines because they need more space for the clothes to tumble through.

Dave

Likely replying to Liz B

Hi Liz,

I don’t want to offend you but I’m afraid that some of your points are just plain incorrect:

Firstly, as Peter Astrand says above, using hot water to fill the machine almost always saves *some* energy and will save far more in the winter (when incoming mains water is colder) than in the summer, even in warmer countries this will always be true, but the amount of savings will vary slightly.

Secondly The Energy Saving Trust has recently told me in Writing (as I pointed out a few months ago on here) that ALL new washing machines use MORE energy that OLDER ones. They offered a very poor and hard to accept explanation for why this is, stating that it is because of the new features, however why it is the case is not important to us here: the fact that new machines use more than old (like new TV’s use more than old) means that your point regarding the 10 to 15 year old washer compared to the new one is factually flawed I’m afraid.

Thirdly, although it is true that there are a good few machines available with 7 to 10 KG capacity, I think you need to complete your points by pointing out that the majority of machines on offer these days hold between 5 and 7 Kg, and as far as I can tell, the best brands (e.g. Miele) don’t seem to make any machines that hold more than 6 kg. This has to do with many many factors but two which interest me here are the wear and tear on the machine and the wear and tear on our laundry. Unless we all buy sweat-shop-made clothes from disreputable retailers and throw them away after half a dozen or so washes we want our clothes to last a good while. Even if we don’t care, it is still environmentally unfriendly to throw away clothes and household fabrics after only a short time. In the same way we want our appliances to last a long time and not to need endless new parts; even if we say we don’t care and are happy to keep replacing, this again is environmentally unfriendly. In other words my third point is that even if the very very dubious cold fill argument works true for some users, it is not the only factor to consider in being economical and environmentally friendly. (You may save a few pennies on your metered water but you might spend far more than you save on water on repairs to the washer and new clothes).

Finally, your litre – per – meter fact is. I’m afraid, incorrect in most cases: you work on a rather crude assumption (stated in many plumbing manuals so I appreciate that it isn’t just a fiction of your own making) that all hot water pipes are 22mm in diameter all the way from the source to the point of use. Whilst it was common practice to use 22mm pipes from hot water cylinders to bath taps (in order to get a fast flow so that the bath filled quickly) this is no longer a normal state of affairs. Further more, 22mm pipes were only ever recommended (according to my very reliable local plumber who has worked for almost 40 years in the trade), for baths and, for a very brief period many years ago, for kitchen sink taps. It has always been the case that 15mm pipes were recommended for basins and the feed to dishwasher and washing machine taps (indeed I don’t believe that you can get appliance taps to fit 22mm pipes). The advent of Combi boilers and other “mains pressure” hot water systems has meant that 22mm hot water pipes are now all but unheard of. I don’t actually know the volume of a meter of 15mm pipe, but if a metre of 22mm holds roughly a liter of water, then fairly clearly a metre of 15mm holds considerably less.

Add to this that Combi Boilers are (very sadly) the most popular water heating system now, and these are commonly fitted in the kitchen or utility room, which is where most washers are, and it is easy to see that in most installations the washing machine will be very close to the source of heat, so there is a very short pipe run – much less than the 15 metres that you quote. (Indeed a big negative point for Combi boilers is the time lag in delivering hot water which is why they are generally situated as close as possible to the main point of use, to minimise this time lag.)

You also say that mixing takes more time than heating: this is, I’m afraid, patently untrue: mixing can be (and often is) done using a “TMV3 valve”. These are the devices used in almost all public buildings to regulate the maximum water temperature at a tap, for the safety of the user (especially elderly, infirm or children). These devices are very cheap to buy as stand alone devices and work utterly instantly (they’d be useless in their safety role if they did not). Variable ones are available for only slightly more cost than fixed output ones and in Germany an electronic variation(known by the brand name “Alfa mix”) on the same theme is not only available but recommended by their equivalent of The Energy Saving Trust as a retro-fit device to cold fill only washers in order to get hot water into the machines to save energy. If washer manufacturers wished to fit a mixing valve inside their machines they could do so very easily and cheaply using one of these products. However, this is not really necessary as a simple system, such as used to be universal in older machines, does the job to a very good approximation of the right temperature with no extra parts at all.

Lastly I’m afraid I must point out that your belief that you are washing twice the laundry in half the water and in less time is very very hard to swallow since not only is it the experience of most posters on here that modern machines take a stupidly long length of time to wash, but also professionals such as Washerhelp himself have pointed out times many that modern cold fill machines have to wash for much longer than old hot fill ones to get the clothes clean at lower temperatures. The saving on water is only accurate if the machine is used full to capacity at all times and if it is capable of washing and rinsing properly when full: this is not the case: even Which? state that they cannot find ANY machines which rinse “well” these days; their “best buy” machines (incidentally Miele with 5 or 6Kg capacity) only manage an “acceptable” rinse, and even that is in most cases only on the delicates cycles which, as you state yourself, use more water and less load. For most users this means that you have to either use the machine well under capacity or run extra rinse programmes after the cycle is over or both (especially for people with skin conditions).

However, although I have tried to point out factual issues in your post, I think perhaps the point that has most sway with most people is that the UK is now almost the only country left where there are no hot fill machines on the market: in the USA ALL washers are hot fill (and indeed the majority do not have their own built in heater, relying on hot water fill instead for the wash temperature). In all the mainland EU countries that I know about there are lots of hot fill washers on the market, and in some, such as Germany, it is now a requirement that houses have a hot water point for washing machines as standard; in Australia there are at least 3 brands of hot fill washer and it is encouraged by government backed incentives to use hot fill washers; in Russia there are hot fill washers available and it is “normal” to use them (perhaps the temperatures in Russia have something to do with this as incoming cold water will be so very cold there much of the time); in Norway and Sweden there are hot fill washers too (I know this is Europe and I’ve already mentioned the EU).

In order to save energy there needs to be a range of fill options so that householders can buy what works best with their hot water systems; this seems to be recognised and promoted in most parts of the world but over here we still have pseudo-scientists trying very hard to tell us that black is white and that one size fits all: I’m afraid one size does not fit all and never can do.

I’m not sure what, if any, scientific arguments each and every country has for using hot fill, but the fact that so many places do is a very strong indicator that it is worthwhile.

Your father is clearly right on this one!

Sorry Liz: I really don’t want to shoot everything you say down in flames for the sake of it, but I’m afraid that some of what you seem to be teaching to your clients is, to say the least, an incomplete picture with some grey areas.

Oliver Shaw

Likely replying to Dave

Hi Dave and Jim,

Bosch and Hotpoint have never had anything to do with each other. The only relationship is many years ago Bosch made Hotpoint dishwashers and that is it. This was the 1980’s.

These days Bosch are not too bad for their money, not as good as my 16 year old WFF2000. The quality has some what been watered down since then.

Hotpoint is another story, they are Indesit based, electronic failures are very very common. Bearing failures are the other major problem. I had a Hotpoint and at 4 loads a week the timer and PCB went kaput after only 2 and a half years. Any Merloni made machine (Hotpoint, Indesit, Ariston and many more) are the worst machines available today, they are absolute rubbish, not the good solid machines of 10-15 years ago, just more British companies that are going to the wall.

Bosch are far far superior to any Hotpoint machine of today, even modern Bosch aren’t so bad.

So to Jim I would recommend Bosch, the German built machines not the cheaper Slovenian/Slovakian made ones. Bosch spares are fairly easy to obtain. Miele may be good but use restricted servicing practices, their spares prices are extortianate (sp). Although repairs may be few, when one comes up it could write the machine off, even if it was designed to last many more years. ISE are different, independants look after these and there is no mark up on spares, the ISE 10 will do 8000-12000 cycles before it starts to wear out.

HTH,

Oliver.

Oliver Shaw

Likely replying to Liz B

Hi Liz,

Everyone is different there are circumstances where cold fill only would save money and others where hot and cold fill will save. No bodies house is designed the same, combi boilers supply hot water almost instantly so if it is 5 feet from the washer, why would cold only be cheaper, especially on 60, 70 and 90/95oC washes?

It just boils down to the fact we should have choice, we have our own requirements and do not need telling what we can and cannot have.

Many people (a growing number) have free solar heated hot water, so why use expensive electricity to heat water when it is free? Even if you have to run the cold off first it still makes sense.

Like Phil says you cannot use every litre of water. When you have a bath do you run the cold off before starting to fill it, of course you do, so why not for a washing machine or dishwasher. I do it every day for the dishwasher so it does a hot prewash and I have a Combi boiler. Its down to choice, I do not mind losing a few litres, I would rather my dishwasher washed properly with the hot water than having to stand in the sink cleaning the by hand because of a cold prewash and then the hot mainwash baking the food on to the dishes.

This blog is about peoples own personal chioce, no about what the masses (supposably) want.

All the best,

Oliver.

Washerhelp 2 replies Dave: Water cooling in pipes is not nonsense. It affects my washing machine very much, as it does many other people. My washing machine is so far away from the hot water supply that no hot water would get in at all on a normal fill for wash. Therefore a hot water valve is completely pointless and would waste my already heated hot water for no reason or benefit. You can't argue with physics. In many cases the amount of water needed to run in before the water runs hot is a lot more than will fit in a sump hose though it's a good idea having it go into the sump hose and being sealed off by the ball floats as that would reduce a fair amount of the wasted cool water. Trouble is, if there isn't any wasted water because the water is instantly hot, such as because the machine's already recently just done a load, or maybe the hot supply is from a supply that provides hot water pretty fast, then hot water would enter the sump and be wasted in there. The only answer is genuinely intelligent systems able to cope with all scenarios. I don't follow your second analogy at all I'm afraid. If you had to wash your hands with a limited, set amount of water, which wasn't much, and that produced the same problem in that by the time the water ran hot enough the tap had already shut off before you could wash in hot water then it would be a similar issue. However, if that was the case then experts would surely advice that you would save money by washing with cold instead of drawing hot water into the pipework to be wasted :-)

Dave: Water cooling in pipes is not nonsense. It affects my washing machine very much, as it does many other people. My washing machine is so far away from the hot water supply that no hot water would get in at all on a normal fill for wash. Therefore a hot water valve is completely pointless and would waste my already heated hot water for no reason or benefit. You can’t argue with physics.

In many cases the amount of water needed to run in before the water runs hot is a lot more than will fit in a sump hose though it’s a good idea having it go into the sump hose and being sealed off by the ball floats as that would reduce a fair amount of the wasted cool water. Trouble is, if there isn’t any wasted water because the water is instantly hot, such as because the machine’s already recently just done a load, or maybe the hot supply is from a supply that provides hot water pretty fast, then hot water would enter the sump and be wasted in there. The only answer is genuinely intelligent systems able to cope with all scenarios.

I don’t follow your second analogy at all I’m afraid. If you had to wash your hands with a limited, set amount of water, which wasn’t much, and that produced the same problem in that by the time the water ran hot enough the tap had already shut off before you could wash in hot water then it would be a similar issue. However, if that was the case then experts would surely advice that you would save money by washing with cold instead of drawing hot water into the pipework to be wasted :-)

Phil James

Likely replying to Washerhelp

Washerhelp, surely it’s not beyond you to fit a spur piece of pipe near your washing machine to run off the cold water from the hot pipe? You don’t have to pour it into a sump, just down a plughole somewhere convenient. Apologies if that sounds rude, but it only took me a couple of days to figure that out and ask a plumber to arrange it when he was next in. I don’t think this is the 1st time it’s been mentioned here either.

Dave

Likely replying to Washerhelp

@Washerhelp.
Not sure if I was unclear in what I meant or whether you are deliberately playing the “cold fill is good” card.

Either way here is what I hope will be some clarification of my previous post:

1). Water cooling in pipes is nonsense: not that it doesn’t actually cool: of course it does, but that the energy “wasted” by water cooling in the pipes is a minuscule fraction of the energy used by washers filling with cold water and heating it electrically. The argument that it is more energy efficient / more economical to fill cold and heat with the washer’s electric immersion heater is unmitigated rubbish and there is a gathering wealth of evidence to back this up.

2). Water wasted in sump when already hot: same argument applies as above: the energy “wasted” by hot water flowing direct to sump / drain is such a tiny fraction of the energy used to heat cold water in the machine that it is a nonsensical argument.

3). Hand washing analogy: again, the same argument about water wasted in pipes applies but my point is that no one suggests washing hands in mains cold water to save energy. You seem to suggest that “experts” might suggest this if they felt we used enough water to wash hands. If any so-called “expert” is stupid enough to make this recommendation then we really have lost the plot. Not only would hand washing in cold water be detrimental to everyone’s joints and muscles, and probably agonising beyond belief to sufferers of arthritis / rheumatism, but it would also be unhygienic. If any idiot did suggest that we wash hands in cold water to save energy I believe and hope that the medical profession would shout very loudly about the lunacy of the idea. Ergo, water cooling in pipes is a known and accepted necessary fact of everyday healthy living and using it as a reason not to fill washers with hot water is demonstrable nonsense.

I’m never quite sure whether you are an advocate of hot and cold fill washers (in any shape or form) or whether you are actually in agreement with the government / manufacturers on this. If you were just playing devil’s advocate then I apologise for the snotty corrections here.

marcusbrutus 2 replies I would tend to agree, however I'd say a difference in the order of 10% is significant, particularly when taking into consideration that my hot water tariff is >>10% cheaper. I'd also suggest the difference (savings) would be greater on warm washes compared to hot, but the testing involved would take more time & energy than I'm prepared to spend ;).

I would tend to agree, however I’d say a difference in the order of 10% is significant, particularly when taking into consideration that my hot water tariff is >>10% cheaper. I’d also suggest the difference (savings) would be greater on warm washes compared to hot, but the testing involved would take more time & energy than I’m prepared to spend ;).

Peter Strand

Likely replying to marcusbrutus

marcusbrutus, can you tell me how much energy, in kWh, that your machine consumes on average? The tiny gains that you are experiencing indicates that your machine (Fisher&Paykel WH80F60W1) just like LG does not use the hot intake very much. This is however a problem with these machines and not a inherit problem with hot fill machines. One conspiracy could even be that these manufacturers makes “poor” hot fill machines just to “demonstrate” that the concept as such is flawed…

I’ve done some measurements with a Kill-a-watt on my Rex Sunny now. It seems to work as advertised. For example, a synthetic 40 degree wash only consumed 0,45 kWh. I think this is great and not at all negligible.

It seems like there’s still room for improvement, however: The machine always fills using both the hot and cold intake at the same time, thus blends the hot water with cold. This problems gets worse at the winter, since the cold water is very cold, just a few degrees celsius. If the machine instead filled using only hot fill until the water was warm enough, by measuring the incoming water temperature, then the savings could be even larger.

marcusbrutus

Likely replying to Peter Strand

Peter,
I will hook up the power meter again and measure kWh/wash when it’s finished doing it’s current job.

My comment about 0.4 cents is by no means an average, and keep it mind it was on one of the warm cycles, as opposed to a hot one. I still view it as (in the order of) ~%10 percent. Considering what the machine actually does (spin+rotate+time, etc) I would regard this as significant, particularly as I would expect that the hot/cold mix during fill of that particular cycle means that the effect of the hot water is lower.

I’m now using “Allergy 40” as the most common cycle so I expect the percentage difference to be even lower … we’ll see.

Dave 2 replies Hullo again everyone, This one is destoned to be the hottest (pardon the pun) topic of 2008 at the rate we are all going! Washerhelp's points above are great (as always) - and prompt me to add a couple in reply. My solar hot water is indeed "free" in my eyes, but Andy (Washerhelp) is right, there is of course the initial installation cost. However, it really does pay to shop around. I won't post huge detail because it's not the right topic for this board, but if anyone wishes to know more about my experience please feel free to mail me (Andy, is it OK for me to post my e-mail address later for anyone who wishes to use it?). Suffice to say that a year or more of research on my part resulted in me getting a 180 litre cylinder, pre-lagged to 2" thickness, and the rest of the solar stuff for well under £2.5k (as a package deal) and I had it fitted by my local plumber for significantly less than £500, making the grand total cost significantly under £3k.. The factory lagged cyclinder as an upgrade to my previous one which held less than a quarter of the volume of water and did not retain the heat anywhere near as well has already saved me, by very rough estimation, about £200 in gas at today's prices in the year since it went in, and that's without the actual solar heat input - in other words just in the winter months when the solar input is at it's lowest. In summer I get 180 litres of water that is too hot for safety really without the boiler coming on at all. Compared to my gas bills previously (around £540 per year and I am a low user!) I am seeing about a 50% reduction in actual payments but allowing for the huge price hikes I must be saving a considerable percentage more. My very rough calculations at the time of installation (October 07) were that at the prices then the solar system should have paid for itself in under 5 years. I'll say no more on that now as it really isn't the right board to be posting on. Turning to dishwashers, my old Bosch that I had in the late 80's (and which was pretty rubbish and I ditched it and went back to hand washing) would accept hot water even though cold was "recommended". It dried with residual heat, i.e. it heated the final rinse water to about 70 degrees then drained and sat for 30 minutes or so whilst the dishes drained and dried from the heat in the pots. In 2002 I bought a Hoover triple A rated Dishwasher (HD97) which had fan assisted drying, but this involved no heat at all in the drying phase; it again heated the last rinse water to 70 plus degrees then simply blew room temperature air through wide flat ducts wrapped around the cabinet (presumably to pre-warm the air from the residual heat inside?) and then into the wash cabinet though a vent near the bottom and out through a vent under the door catch. It dried very well indeed and didn't use that much electriicity. It was also a hot fill model with hot fill "recommended" and cold fill acceptable if no hot available. However it was a very unreliable machine and although it had a 5 years parts only warranty the call out fees to get Gias to repair it (any one else doing repairs invalidated the warranty on the parts I was told) came to over £300 in the first 4 years I had it so when it packed up again before it's 5th birthday I got rid of it and bought a Miele which also recommends hot fill and which also has fan assisted drying. Again, the machine heats the rinse water (in fact it heats on ALL rinses but heats the last one to a high temperature) and then circulates air using a fan. It also has some sort of condensing system because during drying it runs the drain pump much of the time and there is a steady trickle of water pumped away for much of the 32 minutes drying phase. It's very energy efficient (it's AAA rated) and uses only around 0.75 kWh of electricity for a 75 degree wash which lasts about 1 hour and 15 minutes using hot fill. Miele advised via their web support service that all of their dishwashers should be connected to hot water where possible and they even state that doing so will save energy costs over using cold even if your water is heated by gas or oil. Going back to the washing machine debate, the TMV3 valve does, as Andy correctly states, mean that I am rinsing in warm water, but as the LG washer warms up the final rinse water anyway (claiming that this gives "a higher purity of rinse") I am only really adding warm water to 2 rinses that would not cost money to warm up anyway. Although the amount of water used for rinsing is quite high, at leastin the summer months when my hot water is heated for free by solar, I don't regard this as a cost, and even in winter, there is so much water in the cylinder, which I could never possibly use in one day, that I don't think it makes too much difference. Miele also make a machine (infuriatingly only avalable in Germany at present) which will draw hot water and they state that blended hot and cold (i.e. warm) water is used for rinsing on that machine to achieve better rinse results. Having high regard for Miele I feel that if they make this claim then I can believe LG when they state the same reasoning. He he - this was suppose dto be a short response ....and just look at it!!!!!!

Hullo again everyone,

This one is destoned to be the hottest (pardon the pun) topic of 2008 at the rate we are all going!

Washerhelp’s points above are great (as always) – and prompt me to add a couple in reply.

My solar hot water is indeed “free” in my eyes, but Andy (Washerhelp) is right, there is of course the initial installation cost. However, it really does pay to shop around. I won’t post huge detail because it’s not the right topic for this board, but if anyone wishes to know more about my experience please feel free to mail me (Andy, is it OK for me to post my e-mail address later for anyone who wishes to use it?). Suffice to say that a year or more of research on my part resulted in me getting a 180 litre cylinder, pre-lagged to 2″ thickness, and the rest of the solar stuff for well under £2.5k (as a package deal) and I had it fitted by my local plumber for significantly less than £500, making the grand total cost significantly under £3k.. The factory lagged cyclinder as an upgrade to my previous one which held less than a quarter of the volume of water and did not retain the heat anywhere near as well has already saved me, by very rough estimation, about £200 in gas at today’s prices in the year since it went in, and that’s without the actual solar heat input – in other words just in the winter months when the solar input is at it’s lowest. In summer I get 180 litres of water that is too hot for safety really without the boiler coming on at all. Compared to my gas bills previously (around £540 per year and I am a low user!) I am seeing about a 50% reduction in actual payments but allowing for the huge price hikes I must be saving a considerable percentage more. My very rough calculations at the time of installation (October 07) were that at the prices then the solar system should have paid for itself in under 5 years.
I’ll say no more on that now as it really isn’t the right board to be posting on.

Turning to dishwashers, my old Bosch that I had in the late 80’s (and which was pretty rubbish and I ditched it and went back to hand washing) would accept hot water even though cold was “recommended”. It dried with residual heat, i.e. it heated the final rinse water to about 70 degrees then drained and sat for 30 minutes or so whilst the dishes drained and dried from the heat in the pots.
In 2002 I bought a Hoover triple A rated Dishwasher (HD97) which had fan assisted drying, but this involved no heat at all in the drying phase; it again heated the last rinse water to 70 plus degrees then simply blew room temperature air through wide flat ducts wrapped around the cabinet (presumably to pre-warm the air from the residual heat inside?) and then into the wash cabinet though a vent near the bottom and out through a vent under the door catch. It dried very well indeed and didn’t use that much electriicity. It was also a hot fill model with hot fill “recommended” and cold fill acceptable if no hot available. However it was a very unreliable machine and although it had a 5 years parts only warranty the call out fees to get Gias to repair it (any one else doing repairs invalidated the warranty on the parts I was told) came to over £300 in the first 4 years I had it so when it packed up again before it’s 5th birthday I got rid of it and bought a Miele which also recommends hot fill and which also has fan assisted drying. Again, the machine heats the rinse water (in fact it heats on ALL rinses but heats the last one to a high temperature) and then circulates air using a fan. It also has some sort of condensing system because during drying it runs the drain pump much of the time and there is a steady trickle of water pumped away for much of the 32 minutes drying phase. It’s very energy efficient (it’s AAA rated) and uses only around 0.75 kWh of electricity for a 75 degree wash which lasts about 1 hour and 15 minutes using hot fill. Miele advised via their web support service that all of their dishwashers should be connected to hot water where possible and they even state that doing so will save energy costs over using cold even if your water is heated by gas or oil.

Going back to the washing machine debate, the TMV3 valve does, as Andy correctly states, mean that I am rinsing in warm water, but as the LG washer warms up the final rinse water anyway (claiming that this gives “a higher purity of rinse”) I am only really adding warm water to 2 rinses that would not cost money to warm up anyway. Although the amount of water used for rinsing is quite high, at leastin the summer months when my hot water is heated for free by solar, I don’t regard this as a cost, and even in winter, there is so much water in the cylinder, which I could never possibly use in one day, that I don’t think it makes too much difference.
Miele also make a machine (infuriatingly only avalable in Germany at present) which will draw hot water and they state that blended hot and cold (i.e. warm) water is used for rinsing on that machine to achieve better rinse results. Having high regard for Miele I feel that if they make this claim then I can believe LG when they state the same reasoning.

He he – this was suppose dto be a short response ….and just look at it!!!!!!

Washerhelp

Likely replying to Dave

Hello Dave: Nice pun, did you notice my pun about the hot water spiel looking like spin? It wasn’t as good as yours though.

I can see that you are very similar to how I used to be in that you put a hell of a lot of research in before buying anything. However, I don’t know how old you are but as I’ve got older I do find I am less inclined to spend the amount of time I used to and no longer enjoy it as I used to. I tend to just use Which? online these days.

If you are happy to put the e-mail address up that’s fine. Thank you for your respect for the blog and trying to keep on topic.

Thanks for giving details about the solar heating costs. It confirms my point that although I can understand people seeing hot water heated by solar panels as free, in truth it is more expensive for several years at least until the investment is repaid. At that point you need to trust that it continues to work for several years longer in order to prove as good an investment as first expected.

Having invested so much money in solar powered water heating I can really understand people’s anger and frustration when realising their white goods appliances are not using any hot water. Having invested in an LG hot and cold fill washing machine I can equally imagine the frustration at realising that even it hardly takes in any hot water. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, I think the time has come for white goods manufacturers to rethink this cold fill decision unless they know that the future is in cold water washing. But as they all advise to do a regular maintenance wash on at least 60 Deg C it is highly desirable for anyone with solar powered hot water to fill with hot only on such a wash.

If LG & Miele are already using warm water rinses and claiming it is better I wouldn’t be surprised if the next thing is warm water rinsing anyway in which case a solar powered hot water supply would be ideal.

Mike

Likely replying to Dave

Hi Dave,
Did you ever get a reply from Miele in Germany who were going to look into the possible availability of their W3841 WPS Allwater washing machine in the UK?

Does anyone know if one can simply order one from Germany and simply plug it in over here in the UK? Is it 220V over there?
Mike.

Washerhelp 2 replies berlin: All washing machines are controlled by thermostats so if the water was already 30 Deg for a 40 degree wash it would just heat up the extra 10 Deg. If the water was already above 40 Deg on a 40 Deg wash it would not heat up any further. The main problem with doing this, apart from the inconvenience, is that wash efficiency could be affected. Wash cycles are designed to take a specific amount of time in order to allow the washing detergent to work properly. This is particularly the case for cold fill washing machines where the wash cycle programme is designed to work with cold water and heat it slowly up to the correct temperature. If the water is already quite warm or hot to start with then it could affect how long it takes to complete a wash. There is every chance it would shorten the wash programme enough to affect wash efficiency because machines are usually designed to wash until the relevant temperature has been reached and then to move on. At the end of the day, washing laundry, especially to the standard is required by the energy labels (all washing machines now want to have an A rating for wash efficiency) needs time. Biological detergents in particular work best when starting in cold water with water temperature increasing slowly. By all means experiment, but don't forget that the hot water you introduce from a shower will probably cost more than letting the washing machine heat it up.

berlin: All washing machines are controlled by thermostats so if the water was already 30 Deg for a 40 degree wash it would just heat up the extra 10 Deg. If the water was already above 40 Deg on a 40 Deg wash it would not heat up any further.

The main problem with doing this, apart from the inconvenience, is that wash efficiency could be affected. Wash cycles are designed to take a specific amount of time in order to allow the washing detergent to work properly. This is particularly the case for cold fill washing machines where the wash cycle programme is designed to work with cold water and heat it slowly up to the correct temperature. If the water is already quite warm or hot to start with then it could affect how long it takes to complete a wash. There is every chance it would shorten the wash programme enough to affect wash efficiency because machines are usually designed to wash until the relevant temperature has been reached and then to move on.

At the end of the day, washing laundry, especially to the standard is required by the energy labels (all washing machines now want to have an A rating for wash efficiency) needs time. Biological detergents in particular work best when starting in cold water with water temperature increasing slowly.

By all means experiment, but don’t forget that the hot water you introduce from a shower will probably cost more than letting the washing machine heat it up.

Albert

Likely replying to Washerhelp

Hi washerhelp thanks for the really informative site, Dave’s postings are a joy though i note even he still can’t get the LG to draw Hot water.
You may recall i posted re LG H&C fill in July. Despite considerable correspondance LG are still unable to advise how much Hot water their machine should draw for different loads. The second engineer that called told me that he wouild get the info from their technical people and then had to say he couldn’t.

I am now at an impass with LG and will need to take this misselling to Trading Standards. Their last reply follows here … ‘We believe the machine works to specification, however if the customer feels that it does not, please can he provide documented evidence showing this, this must also be accompanied with a qualified independent engineers report. At this stage we can not comment further and our technical engineer can not assist this customer further as we have not established any manufacturers fault relating to this product’.

Know doubt my getting an independant engineer would invalidate the guarantee if he were to examine the machines workings … perhaps that’s what they want!
My advice hasn’t changed … if you are looking for an H&C fill machine don’t waste your money on an LG, it’s really just a cold fill machine. I also note that all the current LG machines are cold fill so a H&C fill is old stock.
If i get anything more i’ll keep you informed.

Washerhelp

Likely replying to Albert

Cheers Albert and thanks for your further contribution:

I think the problem you have is that you are looking at this from a misselling point of view and are rightly very disappointed, but it’s not necessarily fair to call it miss-selling unless they’ve advertised the advantages of a hot valve.

You bought the LG because it had a hot valve whereas virtually all other washing machines don’t. However, do LG actually advertise that their machines are better because they have a hot valve? Or that if you buy an LG washing machine you can utilise your hot water? If they do then you definitely have a case.

The problem you are likely to have is showing they’ve misled. Unless they advertise the advantages of a hot valve somewhere the advantages of a hot valve are only assumed advantages. Most other manufacturers have decided there’s no advantage to having a hot valve at all and removed it as discussed at length in my articles. LG just seem to have not got round to removing theirs but they hardly mention it. If you bought one after consulting LG about the hot valve though then you have much more of a complaint.

I think you made a fair assumption (as would others) that having the hot valve would enable you to use a reasonable amount of your hot water but it seems in reality it doesn’t use much although Dave’s experience shows that it does occasionally use a small amount.

Andy B 2 replies No mention has been made of how the water is heated in the washing machine and how well they cope with hard water. We live in an area with v.hard water and electric kettles can be rendered useless in months. I suspect the same would happen with a washing machine? Yes I know you can fit inline water filters but this is assuming you have the space & besides we already have a filter on the inlet to our combi. I might sound like an old fart here but it just seems that making applicances that last for years & years doesn't do the manufacturers bottom line any good.

No mention has been made of how the water is heated in the washing machine and how well they cope with hard water. We live in an area with v.hard water and electric kettles can be rendered useless in months. I suspect the same would happen with a washing machine?

Yes I know you can fit inline water filters but this is assuming you have the space & besides we already have a filter on the inlet to our combi.

I might sound like an old fart here but it just seems that making applicances that last for years & years doesn’t do the manufacturers bottom line any good.

Dave

Likely replying to Andy B

Hi Andy / all,

Good to get your professional feedback (above).

The incemental filling happens on Cottons, Synthetics, Baby Care and one other cycle – I forget which – according to the instruction books. These are all cycles on which the weighing of the load happens at the start of the programme and are also the ones that you can choose the steam wash option on. I’ve not used the steam option at all yet and I’ve not used baby care (posh name for a 95 degree boil wash with 15 minutes holding temp at 95 degrees and 5 rinses, last one in warm water). I started synthetics once but when the time display started at 3h15m I aborted and used “duvet” instead. What you say about the absorbency of cotton is of course a very good point (even the Hoover used to take in 3 or 4 extra bursts of water after it started a whites economy, but on that you heard the pressure switch clunk and the timer stopped whilst water was drawn, so it was clearly making up for absorbed water and nothing fancy).

I didn’t realise that the ratings took no account of water consumption; I assumed that with everyone banging on about saving water (whilst Yorkshire Water merrily leave burst mains and leaking fire hydrants for 6 weeks plus round here – apparently they are “not high priority”) the ratings would also look at this.

Does anyone know exactly what the ratings mean in real terms? Does the energy rating, for example, actually relate to specific amounts of electricity consumed, or it is purely comparantive? Can an appliance get an A wash rating just because it is 10% better than one with a B, or is there a defined standard to be reached? Frankly I take not the slightest bit of notice of these ratings; I read the actual rating plate of the appliance (and think of it in terms of how many 3 bar fires for how long it is!!!!!) and look for the estimated number of kW used per cycle then make my own judgement. For Wash rating and spin rating I just go for A on the grounds that I assume it’s the best there is.

Is there a web site or reference document that actually details the specifics of these ratings at all?

Lastly, on the water issue again, the amount it spits out after the wash part of the cycle was what really astounded me: 5 gallons plus (before it’s spun out the water in the fabric) seemed like a hell of a lot even for a load of towels and it’s far more than the rinses appear to use (around 4 gallons each as far as I can see). That makes a whites wash something like 17 gallons with te default 3 rinses, or 25 gallons with the “rinse ++” option that adds an extra rinse and a dilution rinse (i.e. what the Hoover used to do). Still, as I said before, I have no complaints over water use and if anything would happily see it use more in some instances.

One other good point: the badly translated instruction book (it’s a real comedy actually!!) fails to mention that the motor carries a 10 year parts and labour warranty – but a small and insignificant sticker on the back of the machine points this out. How long the rest of the machine will last is anyone’s guess, but a ten year motor warranty doesn’t seem too bad to me. Any thoughts anyone?

DAve

Likely replying to Andy B

Thanks Andy.
You’re probably right about the 1kw Vs 2Kw argument and so on; and I’m not on the cheapest tariff, I know that. I am on Ecotricity’s “New Energy” tariff where they guarantee that 100% of their profits from my tariff are invested into building wind and wave generators, but it’s more expensive than their other tariffs which simply promise to match the price ofthe “leading supplier in your area”. (It’s about 0.6p per unit more than npower’s standard rate and they are the leading supplier in Sheffield.)

One thing I do wonder about on the heater business though is the position of the heater within the tub. My new LG’s heater is in a sort of valley or well moulded into the very bottom of the tub, so it’s heating vitually every drop of water (rather like in old Hoover single tub washers), but in the Hoover Electron 1100 I had the heater was part way up the side of the tub, barely below the water level. Since heat rises this surely means that, like an immersion heater in your hot water cylinder, the old Hoover heated only the water that the laundry actually sat in and not that in the sump but the new LG heats all in the sump as well as that in which the laundry sploshes about.

I suspect the real key to the economy business is, as Andy states clearly, that you need to have your washer running completely full to make it economical at all; and with a 7kg drum I will never ever have mine properly full unless I either keep my coloureds in the wash basket for about a month before I wash them or wash my towels about once every 10 days. Even the double bedding is only about 2/3 of a load in this washer.

Now, I really don’t want to set us all off at yet another tangent, but to me this suggests that all manufacturers a and all test institutions are really only interested in family sized machines, not small households.

Richard English 1 reply "More comlicated" is what we want. Modern technology is quite sophisticated enough to contrive to mix two sources of water so that the combination is of the right temperature. It was possible back in June 2007 - when this thread started - and it's even easier now.

“More comlicated” is what we want. Modern technology is quite sophisticated enough to contrive to mix two sources of water so that the combination is of the right temperature. It was possible back in June 2007 – when this thread started – and it’s even easier now.

Washerhelp

Likely replying to Richard English

Hi Richard. The manufacturer’s say starting with cold water and slowly raising the temperature gives the best results for biological detergents.

Also wouldn’t there still be the same problems with a thermostatic mixing valve that you have with a hot and cold fill washing machine? In most people’s homes the hot water would take too long to run hot through the hose. By the time there was enough hot water running through for the thermostatic valve to start mixing ready to supply water at the required temperature the washing machine will have already taken enough water in for many if not the majority of people’s circumstances.

I suspect the only way a thermostatically controlled mixer could supply the main wash with a predefined temperature for most people would be if the hot hose was disconnected and a bowlful or two run off until it ran hot, then reconnect and the mixer valve would be ready to supply a required temperature.

Dave 1 reply Brilliant to see Canadian posting his or her comment (574 above). It would be great if some other people from other countries where hot fill is not only available but is the norm, encouraged by government, or indeed, like Canada, all there is, could also post so that there is more evidence for us to use against the British suppliers. Best of all would be if users of machines like Miele's Allwater or Bosch's hot and cold fill models could quote to us the PR used by the manufacturers for why Hot and cold fill is normal / better - then we could send that back to the UK offices of the same and challenge them as to why they say one thing outside the UK and the opposite within the UK.

Brilliant to see Canadian posting his or her comment (574 above).

It would be great if some other people from other countries where hot fill is not only available but is the norm, encouraged by government, or indeed, like Canada, all there is, could also post so that there is more evidence for us to use against the British suppliers.

Best of all would be if users of machines like Miele’s Allwater or Bosch’s hot and cold fill models could quote to us the PR used by the manufacturers for why Hot and cold fill is normal / better – then we could send that back to the UK offices of the same and challenge them as to why they say one thing outside the UK and the opposite within the UK.

barbara

Likely replying to Dave

dave, i will put the results of my query on here, also the contact details.
david the group sounds a very good idea, you seem to know what you are, talking about / doing. i will join the cause, especially as we are paying for something we do not like but need. hot countries are able to purchase machines with adequate water intake, we with all our rain are not.

Richard English 1 reply Are you suggesting that Canadians, Americas, Germans, Italians Australians and the residents of those other countries where we know dual -fill machines are sold, have them simply because they complain more tha we do? The British might not be a complaining race by nature - but I can't believe that all the countries cited above generate so many more complaints. After all, Canada (to cite just one country) has a far smaller population tha do we.

Are you suggesting that Canadians, Americas, Germans, Italians Australians and the residents of those other countries where we know dual -fill machines are sold, have them simply because they complain more tha we do?

The British might not be a complaining race by nature – but I can’t believe that all the countries cited above generate so many more complaints. After all, Canada (to cite just one country) has a far smaller population tha do we.

Washerhelp

Likely replying to Richard English

Hello Richard: I was told that they have different hot water supplies to us, presumably most use combination boilers. I was told the UK is pretty unique in having the majority of households using gravity fed hot water from hot water tanks upstairs, which means hot water takes a long time to reach the washing machine.