Washing Machine Won’t Start
Always check the power supply before assuming a washing machine fault. A dead socket, tripped circuit breaker, blown plug fuse, or switched-off kitchen isolator are the most common reasons a washing machine appears completely dead – and all can be checked in minutes without any tools. If power is confirmed and the machine is still lifeless, the door lock is the most likely internal cause.
Never test components or connections with the machine plugged in. All electrical diagnosis should be carried out with the machine unplugged using a continuity test meter. See our DIY repair safety guide and DIY repair warnings before starting.
If some lights come on or the machine responds to buttons but will not run a wash programme, the fault is different. See our guide on washing machine won’t fill with water. If the machine fills but immediately drains, see our guide on washing machine fills and drains simultaneously.
Step 1: Check the Power Supply
The most common cause of a completely dead washing machine is not a fault in the machine at all. Work through the power supply checks before opening the machine.
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Is the wall socket switched on? Plug another appliance – a phone charger or lamp – into the same socket to confirm it is live. A socket can appear fine but have failed internally. -
Is there a kitchen isolator switch? Many kitchens have a separate on/off switch for each appliance socket – often labelled and positioned at worktop height or just above. These are easy to switch off accidentally. Check whether your socket is controlled by a separate switch elsewhere in the kitchen. -
Has the circuit breaker tripped? Check the consumer unit for a tripped breaker on the circuit supplying the washing machine socket. If the machine caused the trip, see our guide on washing machine tripping the electrics. -
Has the plug fuse blown? Only relevant if the machine shows no lights at all – if any lights are on, the fuse is fine. Test the fuse with a continuity meter, or try a known working 13A fuse. Never bypass or bridge a fuse. -
Has the machine moved and knocked a switch? Washing machines that move during spin can push a hose or cable against the wall socket switch, turning it off. Check the socket has not been accidentally switched off by the machine shifting position.
Step 2: If Power Is Confirmed – Internal Causes
If the power supply checks out and the machine is still completely lifeless, the fault is inside the machine. The range of possible causes is wide, but the door lock is by far the most common starting point.
Door lock (most common)
The door lock interlock must signal to the control board that the door is properly closed before any programme will begin. A failed lock, a fault in the wiring to the lock, or a door catch that is not engaging the lock mechanism correctly will all prevent the machine from starting. Even if some lights are on, the machine will not operate until the lock signal is received. See our guide on how a washing machine door lock works.
On/off switch
A faulty on/off switch is less common than a door lock fault but produces the same symptom – a completely unresponsive machine. A continuity test on the switch with the machine unplugged confirms whether it is functioning correctly.
Main control PCB
A failed control board can cause complete non-response. PCB faults should only be diagnosed after the door lock, wiring, and switch have been confirmed as good – it is an expensive component and should not be replaced speculatively.
Wiring fault
A broken wire or disconnected connector anywhere in the circuit between the mains supply and the control board can cause complete failure. A visual inspection for obviously disconnected or damaged wiring is worth carrying out before more complex diagnosis.
On certain models from these brands, an open circuit heating element or motor can cause the entire machine to stop functioning – with only the indicator lights remaining active. This is the opposite of what would normally be expected. If the machine has indicator lights but no other response, and the door lock and wiring have been checked, the heater and motor should also be tested for continuity even though this seems counterintuitive.
With so many possible causes, replacing components based on guesswork is expensive and unreliable. Each component should be tested and confirmed faulty before replacement. A continuity test meter is the minimum equipment needed for accurate diagnosis.
Need a Qualified Engineer?
If the power supply checks out and the fault is internal, a qualified engineer with a test meter can usually trace this type of fault quickly.
Related Guides
How a Washing Machine Door Lock WorksHow the door interlock mechanism operates and how to diagnose a door lock fault.
Washing Machine Door Will Not OpenWhy the door can remain locked after a cycle ends and how to safely release it.
Washing Machine Tripping the ElectricsIf the machine caused a circuit breaker to trip or a fuse to blow before going dead.
All Washing Machine Repair GuidesThe full library of fault guides covering all common washing machine problems and symptoms.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washing machine is completely dead – where do I start?
Start with the power supply. Plug another appliance into the same socket to confirm it is live. Check that any kitchen isolator switch for the socket has not been turned off. Check the consumer unit for a tripped circuit breaker. Test the fuse in the plug. These checks take minutes and resolve many apparent machine faults without any repair work.
Some lights come on but the machine won’t do anything – what does that mean?
If any lights are on, the power supply and plug fuse are working. The most likely cause is a door lock fault – the machine cannot confirm the door is properly closed and will not start any programme. The fault could also be in the wiring to the door lock, the door catch mechanism, the on/off switch, or – less commonly – on Indesit and Hotpoint models, an open circuit heater or motor.
Could a faulty door lock really stop the whole machine from working?
Yes. The door lock interlock is a safety device that the control board depends on before allowing any programme to run. The board must receive a signal confirming the door is closed and locked before it will do anything. A failed lock, a wiring fault on the lock circuit, or a door that is not properly engaging the lock mechanism all prevent this signal from being sent.
Is it worth replacing parts to try to fix a dead washing machine?
Only if the faulty part has been confirmed by testing. Replacing parts speculatively is expensive and unreliable – with a door lock, PCB, on/off switch, and wiring all possible causes, the chance of replacing the right part by guessing is low. A continuity test meter and the knowledge to use it – or a qualified engineer – is the most cost-effective route to a correct diagnosis.
16 Comments
Grouped into 13 comment threads.
0 replies Lorna: It has to be a fault on the plumbing, possibly siphoning. Check this article washer fills and drains at same time
0 replies Hi, so in the last 6 months we have had 3 new machines installed.. all resulting in the same issue stopping them from working. Machine 1 (Beko) worked perfectly fine for 4 months. I went to put on a wash and the water started to flow in to the detergent drawer as normal but the machine didn't trigger to start the wash cycle. We had multiple Beko engineers out to look at it but couldn't fix it so they had it replaced. Installed washing machine 2 (Beko).. tried to put on the first ever wash and the exact same issue - water flowing to detergent drawer, not starting cycle and continues to fill up drum. We had a person out to test our water pressure and that is fine with no issues. Today, we had machine 3 installed (Hoover) and we have the same issue.. Can you shed any insight into what this issue may be?
Hi, so in the last 6 months we have had 3 new machines installed.. all resulting in the same issue stopping them from working. Machine 1 (Beko) worked perfectly fine for 4 months. I went to put on a wash and the water started to flow in to the detergent drawer as normal but the machine didn’t trigger to start the wash cycle. We had multiple Beko engineers out to look at it but couldn’t fix it so they had it replaced. Installed washing machine 2 (Beko).. tried to put on the first ever wash and the exact same issue – water flowing to detergent drawer, not starting cycle and continues to fill up drum. We had a person out to test our water pressure and that is fine with no issues. Today, we had machine 3 installed (Hoover) and we have the same issue.. Can you shed any insight into what this issue may be?
1 reply hi, i know this is an old article but someone may still be out there! my indeset washing machine stopped working, it did not start its program, the door locked for a while but its opened now. i opened the filter on the front and it flooded out for ages, not just a little bit. but all was clear. all the light were also going crazy on the panel but now i have nothing, i can here a faint electrical hum so there is still power getting to it. any ideas? ..and now the lights are flashing again, after about 15 mins
hi, i know this is an old article but someone may still be out there!
my indeset washing machine stopped working, it did not start its program, the door locked for a while but its opened now. i opened the filter on the front and it flooded out for ages, not just a little bit. but all was clear. all the light were also going crazy on the panel but now i have nothing, i can here a faint electrical hum so there is still power getting to it. any ideas?
..and now the lights are flashing again, after about 15 mins
Likely replying to Jamie
Jamie, it might be worth checking the carbon brushes, as some Indesit machines stop working if the motor has a fault (or the heater). Normally the door will lock, lights will come on, but the machine won’t do anything. It’s possibly nothing to do with the motor or heater but one of the possibilities with Indesit. Do I need to replace carbon brushes (diagnostics)
0 replies Helle. I know you've checked the water but a humming sound, with no water going into the machine is usually caused when the water valve is energised but there's no water in the fill hose or the hose is kinked. If the machine is also making the humming sound on spin and nothing happens on that cycle either then you can discount the water issue, but if it does work on spin but just hums on a wash cycle it's usually water related so double check all the things in this article won't fill Other than that, as you've replaced the door lock it doesn't leave anything simple as a suspect.
Helle. I know you’ve checked the water but a humming sound, with no water going into the machine is usually caused when the water valve is energised but there’s no water in the fill hose or the hose is kinked. If the machine is also making the humming sound on spin and nothing happens on that cycle either then you can discount the water issue, but if it does work on spin but just hums on a wash cycle it’s usually water related so double check all the things in this article won’t fill
Other than that, as you’ve replaced the door lock it doesn’t leave anything simple as a suspect.
0 replies Hi. I have a 3.5 year old Zanussi washer/drier. The on/off switch flashes and machine won't start and doesn't take water in. The led indicating the machine is 'dry' is also lit. The machine additionally makes a humming sound. I have checked the water supply and changed the interlock, but still doesn't work not even on the spin programme. Before the machine broke, the door would at time refuse to open after the machine cycle, which is why I thought it could be the interlock. The lock now locks when I turn the machine onto a programme and unlocks when machine is turned to the 'off' position. I have also cleaned the filter. Heeeelp... I have a young baby and can't afford to get an engineer out, especially as already spent to purchase the interlock.
Hi. I have a 3.5 year old Zanussi washer/drier. The on/off switch flashes and machine won’t start and doesn’t take water in. The led indicating the machine is ‘dry’ is also lit. The machine additionally makes a humming sound.
I have checked the water supply and changed the interlock, but still doesn’t work not even on the spin programme.
Before the machine broke, the door would at time refuse to open after the machine cycle, which is why I thought it could be the interlock. The lock now locks when I turn the machine onto a programme and unlocks when machine is turned to the ‘off’ position. I have also cleaned the filter.
Heeeelp… I have a young baby and can’t afford to get an engineer out, especially as already spent to purchase the interlock.
0 replies I have a bosch washing machine which is 16 months old. I put on a 90 degree wash today and it started fine but 30 min's in the timer stopped counting down, all the lights kept going off and the cycle stopped for a minute and then come back on. I turned the machine off to cool down to look to drain it but it would not start up again and no light would come on could this be a serious fault and worth getting an engineer out as could be costly.
I have a bosch washing machine which is 16 months old. I put on a 90 degree wash today and it started fine but 30 min’s in the timer stopped counting down, all the lights kept going off and the cycle stopped for a minute and then come back on. I turned the machine off to cool down to look to drain it but it would not start up again and no light would come on could this be a serious fault and worth getting an engineer out as could be costly.
1 reply Hi, my washing machine, will not turn on. No power is coming to it as the lights are not working. Checked plug and fuse. It is a hotpoint machine. Is it likely to be serious and expensive, if its not them two problems. because if i call someone out and its a hefty call out charge plus a lot to fix even worse not economical to fix. I would rather call quits now and put money towards a new one. out of the range of problems it could be what the price ranging from low to high. thanks
Hi,
my washing machine, will not turn on. No power is coming to it as the lights are not working. Checked plug and fuse.
It is a hotpoint machine.
Is it likely to be serious and expensive, if its not them two problems.
because if i call someone out and its a hefty call out charge plus a lot to fix even worse not economical to fix. I would rather call quits now and put money towards a new one.
out of the range of problems it could be what the price ranging from low to high.
thanks
Likely replying to sarah
Sarah, it could be anything from a simple connection fault to the main pcb so it’s not possible to put estimates up. All I can say is if it was the main pcb it would probably be too expensive to repair, but that’s normally the least common cause. If it isn’t the plug or fuse, but no lights at all come on, then that’s less common because normally a fault with the door lock would still allow lights to come on. It could be just one wire come off. If it’s an older Hotpoint they were terrible for the main live wire to the door lock burning out and coming off.
0 replies That's the problem Rebecca, It may or may not be the interlock so you'd have to accept a risk of wasting time and money by effectively guessing. As I mention in my article some washing machines can have those symptoms caused by an open circuit motor or even heater. Quote: "However, the fault could also be in wiring to the door lock, or the door catch not activating it properly, or a faulty on off switch, or even the main control module. With some washing machines (eg Indesit and Hotpoint) even an open circuit heater or motor can cause the entire washing machine to stop working except the led lights."
That’s the problem Rebecca, It may or may not be the interlock so you’d have to accept a risk of wasting time and money by effectively guessing. As I mention in my article some washing machines can have those symptoms caused by an open circuit motor or even heater.
Quote:
“However, the fault could also be in wiring to the door lock, or the door catch not activating it properly, or a faulty on off switch, or even the main control module. With some washing machines (eg Indesit and Hotpoint) even an open circuit heater or motor can cause the entire washing machine to stop working except the led lights.”
1 reply If it's definitely faulty they should be easy enough to replace. You just disconnect the machine from the mains and take off the front part of the door seal from the door rim. You must make sure the machine is properly disconnected as one of the wires on the interlock is likely to be live! The difficulty is in correctly diagnosing it. If this article and the one about door locks which it links to (How does a washing machine door lock work?) don't help then I can only recommend getting an engineer in.
If it’s definitely faulty they should be easy enough to replace. You just disconnect the machine from the mains and take off the front part of the door seal from the door rim. You must make sure the machine is properly disconnected as one of the wires on the interlock is likely to be live!
The difficulty is in correctly diagnosing it. If this article and the one about door locks which it links to (How does a washing machine door lock work?) don’t help then I can only recommend getting an engineer in.
0 replies Hi, I was just wondering is there any way I can fix the door lock on my own as money is tight at the moment and as I have a young child and fella to look after I need the machine ASAP to do the laundry.
Hi, I was just wondering is there any way I can fix the door lock on my own as money is tight at the moment and as I have a young child and fella to look after I need the machine ASAP to do the laundry.
0 replies Sadly Margaret, your case highlights perfectly why you should always eliminate the very simple things first and why my article starts with checking the sockets. Hopefully you'll be glad you got a new one anyway :) It reminds me of a case where I had a regular customer ring me and ask me to bring her a new washing machine because her old one leaked when it emptied water - which is exactly what the new one did when I connected and tested it because the fault was on the plumbing and not the washer.
Sadly Margaret, your case highlights perfectly why you should always eliminate the very simple things first and why my article starts with checking the sockets. Hopefully you’ll be glad you got a new one anyway :) It reminds me of a case where I had a regular customer ring me and ask me to bring her a new washing machine because her old one leaked when it emptied water – which is exactly what the new one did when I connected and tested it because the fault was on the plumbing and not the washer.
0 replies My washing machine wouldn`t start. Instead of checking wall socket I pulled machine out and dumped it as it was nearing it`s sell by date anyway. Got another machine and that`s when I realised it wasn`t the machine that was faulty it was the wall switch! Checked and changed fuses (13amp.) Still wouldn`t work . Plugged new machine into different wall socket and worked brilliantly! Now...can somebody please tell me why my wall switch not working ???
My washing machine wouldn`t start. Instead of checking wall socket I pulled machine out and dumped it as it was nearing it`s sell by date anyway. Got another machine and that`s when I realised it wasn`t the machine that was faulty it was the wall switch! Checked and changed fuses (13amp.) Still wouldn`t work . Plugged new machine into different wall socket and worked brilliantly! Now…can somebody please tell me why my wall switch not working ???
0 replies You are a genius! I tried plugging the toaster into the powerpoint used by the washing machine and it didn't work - so I tried plugging my Hoover washing machine into another plug and all systems are go! Thanks a million!!!!!
You are a genius! I tried plugging the toaster into the powerpoint used by the washing machine and it didn’t work – so I tried plugging my Hoover washing machine into another plug and all systems are go! Thanks a million!!!!!
Lorna: It has to be a fault on the plumbing, possibly siphoning. Check this article washer fills and drains at same time