Washing Machine Pump
The washing machine drain pump is a simple mains-voltage induction motor with an impeller. Most pump faults are caused by obstructions jamming the impeller rather than the pump itself failing. A blocked or jammed pump can often be cleared without replacement – but a leaking pump, or one with failed bearings or an open circuit coil, must be replaced.
The pump runs on mains voltage. Never test or work on any pump connections with the machine plugged in. Always unplug before accessing any internal component. See our DIY repair safety guide and DIY repair warnings before starting.
Understanding how a washing machine pump works makes it much easier to diagnose pump-related faults – and to know when a blockage can be cleared versus when the pump itself needs replacing.
How Does a Washing Machine Pump Work?
Mains voltage
The pump is powered directly from mains voltage. It is not speed-controlled – it either runs at full speed or does not run at all.
Impeller creates a vortex
When power is applied, the motor spins an impeller inside the pump chamber. The rotating impeller generates a vortex that forces water out through the drain hose.
Two-wire connection
The pump has a live and neutral wire. It does not matter which way round they connect. Some pumps also require a separate earth connection – see below.
No serviceable parts
The pump is a sealed unit with no repairable internal components. If the motor fails, the whole pump must be replaced.
Does the Pump Need Earthing?
Plastic housing – needs earth wirePumps with plastic brackets and housings are not self-earthing. A separate earth connection is required via the green and yellow earth wire, which attaches to a metal tab on the pump body.
Double insulated – no earth neededSome pumps are double insulated and do not require a separate earth wire. There will be no earth connection tab on the pump body. Check the pump markings or the machine’s wiring diagram to confirm.
What Can Go Wrong With a Pump?
| Fault | Key Symptom | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Obstruction | Humming noise on spin, pump runs but no water moves | Check filter and impeller – often clearable |
| Open circuit coil | Pump completely silent, may also stop filling | Test continuity – replace if failed |
| Leaking pump | Water dripping from pump body or seals | Replace – seals not available separately |
| Noisy pump | Grinding or grating during drain or spin | Check for obstruction first, replace if bearings |
Obstruction: The Most Common Cause
By far the most common pump problem is an obstruction – something preventing the impeller from spinning freely, or blocking water flow into or out of the pump. Coins, buttons, bra wire fragments, rubber bands, and small items of clothing are the most frequent culprits.
A humming noise when the machine starts a spin cycle – before the drum motor runs – is the classic symptom of a jammed pump. The motor is energised and trying to turn, but the impeller is blocked. Some obstructions do not prevent the impeller spinning but restrict water flow; in these cases the impeller turns but water cannot pump out fast enough. Start with the filter: see our guide on how to find and clean the pump filter.
Open Circuit Stator Coil
If the field coil fails and goes open circuit, the pump is completely silent when it should run. This is relatively rare. A less obvious consequence is that the machine may also stop filling – on some machines the pump shares a neutral wire with the water inlet valves, so a broken pump circuit disrupts the valves at the same time.
Test with a multimeter by measuring continuity across the two supply connections, with the machine unplugged.
Leaking Pump
Pumps can develop leaks from their seals or housing. A leaking pump may function for a period before seizing due to corrosion. Pump seals are not available as separate parts – a leaking pump must be replaced as a complete unit.
Noisy Pump
A grinding or grating noise during drain or spin most commonly indicates a small obstruction – grit, bra wire, or a button – caught inside the pump chamber and being struck by the rotating impeller. The noise may be constant or intermittent. If no obstruction is found, bearing failure is the next likely cause. A pump with failed bearings must be replaced.
Can a Pump Be Repaired?
Can be cleared or fixed
- Impeller jammed by obstruction
- Loose or corroded electrical connection
- Blocked filter (replaced separately where available)
Pump must be replaced
- Open circuit stator coil
- Failed bearings
- Cracked or leaking pump housing
- Impeller broken from shaft
Checks to Run Before Replacing
-
Check all electrical connections to the pump for corrosion or loose fit – with machine unplugged -
Inspect the impeller for obstructions and confirm it turns freely by hand -
Test continuity of the stator coil across the two supply terminals with a multimeter -
Check for visible cracks, leaks, or corrosion damage on the pump body
If the machine is full of water and the pump will not run, see our guide on washing machine won’t drain water. If the pump runs but still does not drain, see our guide on pump running but not draining.
Need a Pump Replacement or a Repair?
If the pump needs replacing or the fault is beyond DIY diagnosis, Whitegoods Help can help.
Related Guides
Washing Machine Won’t Drain WaterThe main drain fault guide – including how to drain a machine stuck full of water and all common causes.
Washing Machine Pump FilterHow to find, access, and clean the pump filter – the first step in any drain fault investigation.
Pump Running But Still Not DrainingWhat to check when the pump is running, the filter is clear, but water still won’t pump out.
3 Good Pre-Repair TipsEssential checks to carry out before booking an engineer or ordering parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does a washing machine pump work?
The pump is a simple mains-voltage induction motor. When power is supplied, the motor spins an impeller that creates a vortex forcing water out through the drain hose. There are no speed controls – the pump either runs at full speed or does not run at all.
What causes a washing machine pump to hum but not drain?
A humming pump that does not move water is typically jammed by an obstruction. The motor is energised and trying to turn, but the impeller cannot rotate. Common culprits are coins, bra wire, rubber bands, or buttons that have passed through the filter. Check the impeller for obstructions with the machine unplugged.
Can a washing machine pump be repaired rather than replaced?
In most cases, no. UK washing machine pumps have no serviceable internal parts. A failed motor coil, seized bearing, or cracked housing means the whole pump unit must be replaced. The only exception is where the pump filter is sold as a separate component.
Why does my washing machine stop filling when the pump has a fault?
On some washing machines, the pump shares a neutral wire with the water inlet valves. If the pump develops an open circuit fault, the shared neutral is broken, which also prevents the valves from opening. Both the pump and the water inlet appear to have failed simultaneously, even though only the pump circuit is at fault.
Does a noisy pump need to be replaced?
Not necessarily. Grinding or grating noise is most commonly caused by a small obstruction being struck by the rotating impeller. Always check and clear the pump first. If no obstruction is found and noise persists, bearing failure is likely – in which case the pump must be replaced.
23 Comments
Grouped into 16 comment threads.
3 replies I have a Indesit IWDC6125, that about 2 years old, and have a issue with the drain on my washing machine. The water has drained, and there's nothing stuck in the pre-chamber, but it's making a noise that is not the normal draining hum. Could you advise what this could be and what would be the best action to take please? Thanks.
1 reply Great article, certainly of help. Turns out that the pump on my Hoover machine died so I replaced it, turned it on and it works. Problem is, it's now permanently on so when I start a cycle it drains fresh water away which creates a E02 error. I suspect a sensor isn't detecting water at a certain level so the cleaning process does not start. Why would the pump stay on permanently. The pump is off when I turn the dial to a setting but once I press start, the pump comes on and won't stop. Any help much appreciated.
Great article, certainly of help. Turns out that the pump on my Hoover machine died so I replaced it, turned it on and it works. Problem is, it’s now permanently on so when I start a cycle it drains fresh water away which creates a E02 error. I suspect a sensor isn’t detecting water at a certain level so the cleaning process does not start. Why would the pump stay on permanently. The pump is off when I turn the dial to a setting but once I press start, the pump comes on and won’t stop. Any help much appreciated.
Likely replying to Paul C
Thanks Paul. A pump can only run constantly if it has a live feed and a neutral return connection. The only way a washing machine would energise the pump out of context (that is when it shouldn’t normally be pumping) is when it detects a fault such as overfilling, or overheating.
It is possible that the E2 error is the actual fault, and the pump is being energised because of it. I don’t have too many Hoover error codes but most of the ones I can see using the number 2 relate to either the thermistor on the heating element or timing out on fill, or faults with the pressure system.
If the pump wasn’t running all the time before it was replaced you have to consider the possibility of something having gone wrong during the repair. But it is difficult to think of anything that is likely to be responsible unless by any chance the machine was turned upside down or water leaked onto electrical parts. Just make sure it is correctly wired. If it has an earth wire make sure the earth (yellow and green) isn’t connected to the neutral or anything daft like that.
Other than that I’d advise getting an engineer.
1 reply I have a Zanussi IZ16s which I've ordered a replacement recirculation pump for. I've 2 questions. Firstly the pump appears corroded and has clearly overheated and blown - just wondering what could have caused this as don't want to just replace to find the same problem. Second query is, the whole assembly was a nightmare to get to and needed to be removed along with the housing the pump attaches to which includes the drain pump as well. This meant I couldn't easily see the wiring and had to remove them virtually by touch. The wires to each pump were a different colour (blue for recirc and orange for drain) but on each pump the L and N are the same colour and spade connector size. What's the best way of identifying which of each one should be connected each terminal on the pump? I'm assuming if I get it wrong the pump will rotate the wrong way?
I have a Zanussi IZ16s which I’ve ordered a replacement recirculation pump for. I’ve 2 questions. Firstly the pump appears corroded and has clearly overheated and blown – just wondering what could have caused this as don’t want to just replace to find the same problem.
Second query is, the whole assembly was a nightmare to get to and needed to be removed along with the housing the pump attaches to which includes the drain pump as well. This meant I couldn’t easily see the wiring and had to remove them virtually by touch. The wires to each pump were a different colour (blue for recirc and orange for drain) but on each pump the L and N are the same colour and spade connector size. What’s the best way of identifying which of each one should be connected each terminal on the pump? I’m assuming if I get it wrong the pump will rotate the wrong way?
Likely replying to Mike H
Hello Mike. If the pump is corroded with detergent and rust it may have leaked and that could be what caused its demise. If it has evidence of overheating though it may have jammed although they are supposed to have overheat protections and cut out. Just make sure there’s nothing in the hoses that could account for blocking it.
A pump usually just has a live and neutral and it doesn’t matter which way round they go when run on AC current.
1 reply I have a Frigidaire top load washing machine that has had the problem of not draining. There is no identifiable obstruction and water flows freely from the drain hose when it is disconnected from the pump. I figured the pump was the issue and replaced it, only to have the same problem of the machine not draining. What would be the next step here? Also, I am not sure how to tell if the pump is working or not. It is not audible but I don't know if it should be or not.
I have a Frigidaire top load washing machine that has had the problem of not draining. There is no identifiable obstruction and water flows freely from the drain hose when it is disconnected from the pump.
I figured the pump was the issue and replaced it, only to have the same problem of the machine not draining. What would be the next step here?
Also, I am not sure how to tell if the pump is working or not. It is not audible but I don’t know if it should be or not.
Likely replying to Sean
Hello Sean. If the pump is not audible I would think it is not running. Pumps are one of the noisiest things on a washing machine. If the pump isn’t running due to an electrical fault this would completely explain your problem and why a new pump didn’t fix the fault.
However if the pump is definitely running and presumably just very quiet then this is the article for you Can’t Find a Blockage But Washing Machine Still Not Draining
If the pump is definitely not running you would normally suspect a pump being faulty (open circuit) but if you fitted a new pump, and assuming you fitted it correctly it would be unlikely that a new pump would be also open circuit (although not completely impossible). Pumps are very simple, just have a live, and a neutral, the main thing to check is that the connections are okay and connected properly. After that you really need to fault find with a continuity test meter (not on a live machine!) Or get an engineer.
1 reply Hi, just wanted to say thanks for your advice, after shining a torch into the pump I found the culprit, a plastic curtain hook! Your webpage has saved me time and money, thank you.
Hi, just wanted to say thanks for your advice, after shining a torch into the pump I found the culprit, a plastic curtain hook! Your webpage has saved me time and money, thank you.
Likely replying to Mel
Thank you Mel. Plastic curtain hooks can be tricky to find because they float. If they don’t actually get jammed inside the water pump they can often get sucked in whilst the washing machine is pumping out water. This can cause a grinding noise from the pump but when the water has pumped away and the washing machine laid down, a plastic item can often float back up into the sump hose, or even into the tub where it cannot be seen.
0 replies Hey, Andy! Thank you so much for your great web page. I have an Arthur Martin/Electrolux Intuition washer which makes it very easy to access the pump. The grinding noise I was hearing fit your description of an obstruction to the propeller and when I opened the pump filter, that's exactly what I found - a small brass ring that must have been in a kid's pocket when the trousers went into the machine... My machine is once again working flawlessly and I feel like the Queen of Do-It-Yourself, all thanks to YOU! :o)
Hey, Andy!
Thank you so much for your great web page. I have an Arthur Martin/Electrolux Intuition washer which makes it very easy to access the pump. The grinding noise I was hearing fit your description of an obstruction to the propeller and when I opened the pump filter, that’s exactly what I found – a small brass ring that must have been in a kid’s pocket when the trousers went into the machine…
My machine is once again working flawlessly and I feel like the Queen of Do-It-Yourself, all thanks to YOU! :o)
0 replies If it is designed to fit your machine it should look very similar. If not you can buy genuine and the cheaper non genuine pumps from my affiliate spares site here - washing machine pumps
If it is designed to fit your machine it should look very similar. If not you can buy genuine and the cheaper non genuine pumps from my affiliate spares site here – washing machine pumps
0 replies I have checked my drain pump on my hoover oph 714d 1/80 for obstructions but none found pump is making a grating noise will I have to replace the pump I have got a pump Askoll model m254 will this be ok
I have checked my drain pump on my hoover oph 714d 1/80 for obstructions but none found pump is making a grating noise will I have to replace the pump I have got a pump Askoll model m254 will this be ok
0 replies Make sure there's nothing stuck inside it, which is the most common cause of a grating sound from the pump but yes it should be straight forward to fit a new pump on most washing machines.
Make sure there’s nothing stuck inside it, which is the most common cause of a grating sound from the pump but yes it should be straight forward to fit a new pump on most washing machines.
0 replies My hoover oph 714D has got a noisy pump like a grating sound but still works Are they easy to fit
My hoover oph 714D has got a noisy pump like a grating sound but still works
Are they easy to fit
0 replies Yes please let us know how you get on Paul. Normally the relay controls the heating element, because of the amount of power it draws it makes sense to use a relay. But if there is more than one relay then it's possible it could power the pump.
Yes please let us know how you get on Paul. Normally the relay controls the heating element, because of the amount of power it draws it makes sense to use a relay. But if there is more than one relay then it’s possible it could power the pump.
0 replies Thanks for getting back to me Andy and the advise. I took the time to browse your site yesterday and some of the obvious issues. The pressure switch is a simple single switch which appears to work perfectly. The hose is intact and running clear. No earth on the pump but checked the wiring loom which is ok. Noticed a black patch on the PCB so removed the board and notice one of the relays is faulty. I have no schematic for this machine but wonder if this relay operates the pump. would make sense if the relay is stuck on. Worth mentioning that if I run the spin program, when if ends after 10 minutes the pump continues to spin. It only stops when I power the machine off. I've ordered a relay for the princely sum of £2.43, with any luck this will fix the problem. Will let you know how it goes once it arrives in a couple of days. Thanks
Thanks for getting back to me Andy and the advise. I took the time to browse your site yesterday and some of the obvious issues. The pressure switch is a simple single switch which appears to work perfectly. The hose is intact and running clear. No earth on the pump but checked the wiring loom which is ok. Noticed a black patch on the PCB so removed the board and notice one of the relays is faulty. I have no schematic for this machine but wonder if this relay operates the pump. would make sense if the relay is stuck on. Worth mentioning that if I run the spin program, when if ends after 10 minutes the pump continues to spin. It only stops when I power the machine off. I’ve ordered a relay for the princely sum of £2.43, with any luck this will fix the problem. Will let you know how it goes once it arrives in a couple of days. Thanks
0 replies Aye, pumps can't be repaired, no parts available, so only option is to fit a new one if it's leaking.
Aye, pumps can’t be repaired, no parts available, so only option is to fit a new one if it’s leaking.
0 replies well my washer has been slightly leaking for 5/6 mth , then i motivated myself to have a look on youtube , On my model Aquarius wmf94o the pump is at the front so i went with cleaning the filter & finding my shed keys in there but i also noticed that the leak was coming from the filter but i ended up giving it a service what lasted 3 hr , i stripped every hose & cleaned every pipe & they were all full gunjie shite , After i put all the parts back ( drunk ) it seems like its the filter , i noticed there pennys ANYWAY MY BIG QUESTION IS : am i better off just changing the full pump & filter because there only 25 / 30 bangers
well my washer has been slightly leaking for 5/6 mth , then i motivated myself to have a look on youtube , On my model Aquarius wmf94o the pump is at the front so i went with cleaning the filter & finding my shed keys in there but i also noticed that the leak was coming from the filter but i ended up giving it a service what lasted 3 hr , i stripped every hose & cleaned every pipe & they were all full gunjie shite , After i put all the parts back ( drunk ) it seems like its the filter , i noticed there pennys ANYWAY MY BIG QUESTION IS : am i better off just changing the full pump & filter because there only 25 / 30 bangers
0 replies Hello Alec. I'm presuming the pump is not running at all. This can be caused by an obstruction jamming the pump but if you've replaced the pump and it still doesn't run then it must be an electrical fault. You should test a pump before deciding it is faulty by putting a continuity test meter cross both terminals. If you get reading it is usually okay, if it is totally open circuit then it definitely needs replacing. Other than that it's just guesswork putting a new one in. If it isn't the pump then either the pump is not getting any power, or there is a fault on the neutral return from the pump. Both these issues need a continuity test meter to try and trace. Unless you can see any broken wires or bad connections to and from the pump you probably need an engineer to troubleshoot it. If by any chance you replaced the pump despite it apparently running (but not emptying) then you need to troubleshoot blockages using these 2 articles Washing machine won’t drain water Can’t find a blockage but washing machine still not draining
Hello Alec. I’m presuming the pump is not running at all. This can be caused by an obstruction jamming the pump but if you’ve replaced the pump and it still doesn’t run then it must be an electrical fault. You should test a pump before deciding it is faulty by putting a continuity test meter cross both terminals. If you get reading it is usually okay, if it is totally open circuit then it definitely needs replacing. Other than that it’s just guesswork putting a new one in. If it isn’t the pump then either the pump is not getting any power, or there is a fault on the neutral return from the pump. Both these issues need a continuity test meter to try and trace. Unless you can see any broken wires or bad connections to and from the pump you probably need an engineer to troubleshoot it.
If by any chance you replaced the pump despite it apparently running (but not emptying) then you need to troubleshoot blockages using these 2 articles
Washing machine won’t drain water
Can’t find a blockage but washing machine still not draining
0 replies I have a zanussi with an error code e20. The machine makes lots of clicking noises but fails to drain even after replacing the pump. Any suggestions ?
I have a zanussi with an error code e20. The machine makes lots of clicking noises but fails to drain even after replacing the pump. Any suggestions ?
I have a Indesit IWDC6125, that about 2 years old, and have a issue with the drain on my washing machine. The water has drained, and there’s nothing stuck in the pre-chamber, but it’s making a noise that is not the normal draining hum. Could you advise what this could be and what would be the best action to take please? Thanks.
Likely replying to Sue Begum
Hello Sue. If the pump is still draining but making a noise you have to make a judgement call as to whether to call an engineer or not. A noise could be something loose and vibrating, or something inside catching on the impeller of signs of the pump wearing. Unfortunately not being able to hear the noise stops be from being able to guess what it is.
Likely replying to Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)
Hi Andy, my washing machine is a whirlpool 1200 washer dryer. the pump seems to be working, because the clothes are spun and the drum is empty of water, but there is always some water left in the door gasket. at the same time water does overflow from the pipe that the outlet hose goes into. I have checked the outlet pipe and the filter for blockages as you suggest. there were still suds in the area of the impeller and sometimes in the door gasket too. is there anything you can suggest?
Likely replying to Niall
Hello Niall. It’s common for some door seals to hold a bit of water. If water overflows from the stand pipe that the washer pumps into there must be a partial blockage somewhere in the plumbing (usually inside one of the joints or bends). It could potentially affect rinse efficiency too as it could suck some water back into the machine if the pipe fills with water when draining.