The following washing machine pump help concerns UK washing machines although the principles should be similar to most appliance pumps. The water pump in a washing machine is one of the most common causes of breakdowns – though more often due to obstructions and blockages.
Where can I buy a washing machine pump?
Make sure you really need to buy one first, the free help and advice on this page may be useful. Don’t just assume if it stops draining water you need a new pump. If you need to replace your washing machine pump you can buy one quickly and easily using 4Washerhelp, which I host for the largest spares company in the UK – Buy washing machine pumps (Next day delivery option available). Using this spares site costs no more than going directly to them but helps support my sites by assigning a small commission to me.
How does a pump work?
The main thing to know is that the pump runs on mains voltage, and spins an impeller round creating a vortex and expelling water out. It’s an extremely simple part.
There are two wires to the field coil on the pump, a live and a neutral. It doesn’t matter which way round they go. Most modern washing machine pumps have plastic fixing brackets so they must be earthed with a separate earth wire (yellow and green) but some pumps don’t need earthing as they are double insulated. If it needs earthing there will be an earth wire close to it and a connector on some metal part of the pump.
A pump is an extremely simple induction motor with an impeller and no serviceable parts. To run the pump the machine just supplies it with power (some may have permanent live feed and be turned on by supplying a neutral return). The pump impeller just spins round and pumps water. It either runs or it doesn’t. The only thing you can check is connections to it, see if the impeller is jammed, or test the continuity of the stator across the two connectors. Do not test anything with the machine connected to the mains.
Can I repair a pump?
Most (UK) washing machine pumps are no longer repairable. If any fault develops, you need to buy a complete pump. An exception is that you can usually buy a pump filter (if fitted) separately. However, the most common cause of a washing machine that wont empty water is an obstruction in the filter or pump, so read the rest of this page for further advice.
What commonly goes wrong with the pump?
The most common problem by far, is an obstruction stopping the pump impeller from spinning, or obstructing water flow into or out of the pump. You can often detect this by listening carefully when putting the washing machine onto spin. Before the motor starts to turn, if you can hear a gentle humming noise, this may be a jammed pump trying to turn. Some obstructions such as socks or a blocked filter don’t stop the impeller from spinning as normal but can prevent or restrict water from flowing through the drain hose. If you have a washing machine full of water and need to drain the water and investigate it follow the instructions on Washing machine won’t drain water
Unusual consequences of an open circuit pump
If the field coil of a water pump goes open circuit, (or the neutral wire becomes detached or broken) then apart from the pump failing to run, the washing machine may not take in any water. This is because the pump sometimes shares the neutral with the water valves. It’s relatively rare for a pump to go open circuit.
Leaking Pump
Washing machine pumps are prone to leaking. They can then seize up because of corrosion or they can continue to work but just leak. A leaking water pump must be replaced as no seals are available. (Buy washing machine pumps)
Noisy Pump
Washing machine pumps can become noisy if the bearings fail. Nine times out of ten though, a noisy pump is caused by an obstruction colliding with the rotating impeller. This often manifests itself as a grinding, grating sound that can come and go or be constant (depending on the obstruction). If the noise is due to bearing failure then the pump must be replaced, but check for small obstructions first.
More articles on pumps
This article is one of a series on pumps, check out my others here –
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Comments Disabled
Sorry, comments on this topic have been closed. The article already contains all the advice I can think of or I’m comfortable publishing. If the article and any previous comments (below) don’t help, please consider contacting an appliance engineer
Mel says
January 1, 2015 at 2:22 pmHi, just wanted to say thanks for your advice, after shining a torch into the pump I found the culprit, a plastic curtain hook! Your webpage has saved me time and money, thank you.
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
January 5, 2015 at 10:31 amThank you Mel. Plastic curtain hooks can be tricky to find because they float. If they don’t actually get jammed inside the water pump they can often get sucked in whilst the washing machine is pumping out water. This can cause a grinding noise from the pump but when the water has pumped away and the washing machine laid down, a plastic item can often float back up into the sump hose, or even into the tub where it cannot be seen.
Sean says
March 13, 2015 at 10:02 pmI have a Frigidaire top load washing machine that has had the problem of not draining. There is no identifiable obstruction and water flows freely from the drain hose when it is disconnected from the pump.
I figured the pump was the issue and replaced it, only to have the same problem of the machine not draining. What would be the next step here?
Also, I am not sure how to tell if the pump is working or not. It is not audible but I don’t know if it should be or not.
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
March 20, 2015 at 10:51 amHello Sean. If the pump is not audible I would think it is not running. Pumps are one of the noisiest things on a washing machine. If the pump isn’t running due to an electrical fault this would completely explain your problem and why a new pump didn’t fix the fault.
However if the pump is definitely running and presumably just very quiet then this is the article for you Can’t Find a Blockage But Washing Machine Still Not Draining
If the pump is definitely not running you would normally suspect a pump being faulty (open circuit) but if you fitted a new pump, and assuming you fitted it correctly it would be unlikely that a new pump would be also open circuit (although not completely impossible). Pumps are very simple, just have a live, and a neutral, the main thing to check is that the connections are okay and connected properly. After that you really need to fault find with a continuity test meter (not on a live machine!) Or get an engineer.
Eric says
April 29, 2015 at 6:17 pmI have a zanussi with an error code e20. The machine makes lots of clicking noises but fails to drain even after replacing the pump. Any suggestions ?
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
April 30, 2015 at 11:57 amHello Alec. I’m presuming the pump is not running at all. This can be caused by an obstruction jamming the pump but if you’ve replaced the pump and it still doesn’t run then it must be an electrical fault. You should test a pump before deciding it is faulty by putting a continuity test meter cross both terminals. If you get reading it is usually okay, if it is totally open circuit then it definitely needs replacing. Other than that it’s just guesswork putting a new one in. If it isn’t the pump then either the pump is not getting any power, or there is a fault on the neutral return from the pump. Both these issues need a continuity test meter to try and trace. Unless you can see any broken wires or bad connections to and from the pump you probably need an engineer to troubleshoot it.
If by any chance you replaced the pump despite it apparently running (but not emptying) then you need to troubleshoot blockages using these 2 articles
Washing machine won’t drain water
Can’t find a blockage but washing machine still not draining
Mike H says
May 21, 2015 at 2:35 pmI have a Zanussi IZ16s which I’ve ordered a replacement recirculation pump for. I’ve 2 questions. Firstly the pump appears corroded and has clearly overheated and blown – just wondering what could have caused this as don’t want to just replace to find the same problem.
Second query is, the whole assembly was a nightmare to get to and needed to be removed along with the housing the pump attaches to which includes the drain pump as well. This meant I couldn’t easily see the wiring and had to remove them virtually by touch. The wires to each pump were a different colour (blue for recirc and orange for drain) but on each pump the L and N are the same colour and spade connector size. What’s the best way of identifying which of each one should be connected each terminal on the pump? I’m assuming if I get it wrong the pump will rotate the wrong way?
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
May 22, 2015 at 1:23 pmHello Mike. If the pump is corroded with detergent and rust it may have leaked and that could be what caused its demise. If it has evidence of overheating though it may have jammed although they are supposed to have overheat protections and cut out. Just make sure there’s nothing in the hoses that could account for blocking it.
A pump usually just has a live and neutral and it doesn’t matter which way round they go when run on AC current.
Garry Robertson says
June 6, 2015 at 6:36 amwell my washer has been slightly leaking for 5/6 mth , then i motivated myself to have a look on youtube , On my model Aquarius wmf94o the pump is at the front so i went with cleaning the filter & finding my shed keys in there but i also noticed that the leak was coming from the filter but i ended up giving it a service what lasted 3 hr , i stripped every hose & cleaned every pipe & they were all full gunjie shite , After i put all the parts back ( drunk ) it seems like its the filter , i noticed there pennys ANYWAY MY BIG QUESTION IS : am i better off just changing the full pump & filter because there only 25 / 30 bangers
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
June 7, 2015 at 11:40 amAye, pumps can’t be repaired, no parts available, so only option is to fit a new one if it’s leaking.
Paul C says
June 16, 2015 at 1:15 pmGreat article, certainly of help. Turns out that the pump on my Hoover machine died so I replaced it, turned it on and it works. Problem is, it’s now permanently on so when I start a cycle it drains fresh water away which creates a E02 error. I suspect a sensor isn’t detecting water at a certain level so the cleaning process does not start. Why would the pump stay on permanently. The pump is off when I turn the dial to a setting but once I press start, the pump comes on and won’t stop. Any help much appreciated.
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
June 17, 2015 at 11:27 amThanks Paul. A pump can only run constantly if it has a live feed and a neutral return connection. The only way a washing machine would energise the pump out of context (that is when it shouldn’t normally be pumping) is when it detects a fault such as overfilling, or overheating.
It is possible that the E2 error is the actual fault, and the pump is being energised because of it. I don’t have too many Hoover error codes but most of the ones I can see using the number 2 relate to either the thermistor on the heating element or timing out on fill, or faults with the pressure system.
If the pump wasn’t running all the time before it was replaced you have to consider the possibility of something having gone wrong during the repair. But it is difficult to think of anything that is likely to be responsible unless by any chance the machine was turned upside down or water leaked onto electrical parts. Just make sure it is correctly wired. If it has an earth wire make sure the earth (yellow and green) isn’t connected to the neutral or anything daft like that.
Other than that I’d advise getting an engineer.
Paul C says
June 17, 2015 at 12:50 pmThanks for getting back to me Andy and the advise. I took the time to browse your site yesterday and some of the obvious issues. The pressure switch is a simple single switch which appears to work perfectly. The hose is intact and running clear. No earth on the pump but checked the wiring loom which is ok. Noticed a black patch on the PCB so removed the board and notice one of the relays is faulty. I have no schematic for this machine but wonder if this relay operates the pump. would make sense if the relay is stuck on. Worth mentioning that if I run the spin program, when if ends after 10 minutes the pump continues to spin. It only stops when I power the machine off. I’ve ordered a relay for the princely sum of £2.43, with any luck this will fix the problem. Will let you know how it goes once it arrives in a couple of days. Thanks
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
June 18, 2015 at 10:57 amYes please let us know how you get on Paul. Normally the relay controls the heating element, because of the amount of power it draws it makes sense to use a relay. But if there is more than one relay then it’s possible it could power the pump.
Brian Stephenson says
August 7, 2015 at 12:27 pmMy hoover oph 714D has got a noisy pump like a grating sound but still works
Are they easy to fit
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
August 8, 2015 at 4:46 pmMake sure there’s nothing stuck inside it, which is the most common cause of a grating sound from the pump but yes it should be straight forward to fit a new pump on most washing machines.
Brian Stephenson says
August 12, 2015 at 1:33 pmI have checked my drain pump on my hoover oph 714d 1/80 for obstructions but none found pump is making a grating noise will I have to replace the pump I have got a pump Askoll model m254 will this be ok
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
August 17, 2015 at 11:25 amIf it is designed to fit your machine it should look very similar. If not you can buy genuine and the cheaper non genuine pumps from my affiliate spares site here – washing machine pumps
Sue Begum says
September 7, 2015 at 6:36 pmI have a Indesit IWDC6125, that about 2 years old, and have a issue with the drain on my washing machine. The water has drained, and there’s nothing stuck in the pre-chamber, but it’s making a noise that is not the normal draining hum. Could you advise what this could be and what would be the best action to take please? Thanks.
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
September 8, 2015 at 11:51 amHello Sue. If the pump is still draining but making a noise you have to make a judgement call as to whether to call an engineer or not. A noise could be something loose and vibrating, or something inside catching on the impeller of signs of the pump wearing. Unfortunately not being able to hear the noise stops be from being able to guess what it is.
Niall says
September 28, 2015 at 12:57 pmHi Andy, my washing machine is a whirlpool 1200 washer dryer. the pump seems to be working, because the clothes are spun and the drum is empty of water, but there is always some water left in the door gasket. at the same time water does overflow from the pipe that the outlet hose goes into. I have checked the outlet pipe and the filter for blockages as you suggest. there were still suds in the area of the impeller and sometimes in the door gasket too. is there anything you can suggest?
Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says
September 29, 2015 at 3:51 pmHello Niall. It’s common for some door seals to hold a bit of water. If water overflows from the stand pipe that the washer pumps into there must be a partial blockage somewhere in the plumbing (usually inside one of the joints or bends). It could potentially affect rinse efficiency too as it could suck some water back into the machine if the pipe fills with water when draining.
Helena says
November 2, 2015 at 10:56 pmHey, Andy!
Thank you so much for your great web page. I have an Arthur Martin/Electrolux Intuition washer which makes it very easy to access the pump. The grinding noise I was hearing fit your description of an obstruction to the propeller and when I opened the pump filter, that’s exactly what I found – a small brass ring that must have been in a kid’s pocket when the trousers went into the machine…
My machine is once again working flawlessly and I feel like the Queen of Do-It-Yourself, all thanks to YOU! :o)