Hi Natilie, It’s a shame the plastic bag wasn’t the only cause, maybe there was something else stuck in too. I’m always careful to give only general advice which would help a knowledgeable person with experience repairing other products or diy etc to have a better understanding. My articles are deliberately general and I never give explicit instructions because I think it’s unwise to start trying to fix any appliance if not already experienced at repairing things unless it’s just straight forward things like checking a filter, fuse, or inside a hose.
Washing Machine Won’t Drain Water
If your washing machine won't drain the water out, and or is stuck full of water, then this article gives advice on how to fix it.
Guidance compiled by Whitegoods Help. Diagnostic steps apply to all front-loading washing machines sold in the UK. Prices quoted are UK figures checked in November 2026 and will change over time.
01Why is my washing machine not draining?
Draining is one of the simplest things a washing machine does. A small electric pump at the bottom of the machine pushes water from the drum, through a filter, up the drain hose and into your waste pipe. If any part of that path is blocked, or the pump stops pushing, water stays in the drum.
The good news is that the cause is usually cheap and easy to find. Our engineers see far more blocked filters and trapped socks than failed pumps. The guide below takes you through the checks in the same order an engineer would use.
Lint, socks, coins, hair grips, bra wires and buttons collect in the pump filter, the pump chamber, the sump hose or the drain hose. This is the most common cause by a wide margin.
An object can stop the impeller turning, the impeller can come loose from its shaft, or the pump motor can burn out. A jammed pump often hums. A dead pump is silent.
A drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe, a hose that is too high, a kinked hose behind the machine or a blanking cap left in a new U-bend spigot will all stop a perfectly healthy machine from emptying.
A blown fuse, a pump wire that has worked loose, a faulty pressure switch or a control board that never switches the pump on. Less common, and usually the last thing to suspect.
02What should I do first if the machine is full of water?
Do not start pulling the machine out or opening the filter with a drum full of water. A 9 kg machine can be holding 20 litres or more, and it will all come out of the filter opening at once. Work through these steps first.
-
Switch off and unplug. Turn the machine off at the socket and pull the plug before you touch anything inside it. If the plug is behind the machine and hard to reach, switch off at the fused spur or the socket switch and confirm the display is dead.
-
Rule out a power problem. A machine that stopped mid-cycle and went completely dead with water in it may simply have blown its plug fuse or tripped the socket. Check the fuse and try another appliance in the socket. If power is the problem, restoring it will let the machine drain normally.
-
Note any error code or message. If the display shows a code such as E18, F05, E20, OE or 5E, write it down before you reset anything. The code tells you whether the machine thinks the fault is a slow drain, a pump fault or a water level sensing fault. The table further down explains the common ones.
-
Listen before you drain. Select a drain or spin programme and listen at the bottom front of the machine for a few seconds. Whether you hear the pump running, humming or nothing at all is the single most useful piece of information you can gather. Then switch off and unplug again.
-
Drain the water manually. Use the small emergency drain hose next to the filter if your machine has one, or follow our guide to draining a washing machine that is full of water. Lay towels down and use a shallow tray or baking tin, because the filter sits very close to the floor.
-
Open the door and remove the laundry. Once the water is out, the door lock should release after a minute or two. If it won’t, see our guide to a washing machine door that won’t open rather than forcing it.
If the machine stopped during a hot wash, the water inside can still be hot enough to scald an hour later. Let it cool before you open the filter, and open it slowly so you can tighten it again if the flow is too fast.
03Did the machine stop draining straight after being moved or plumbed in?
If the machine drained perfectly before a house move, a new kitchen or being plumbed into a U-bend for the first time, the cause is very often outside the machine. The most common culprit is a blanking cap still fitted inside the spigot on a new U-bend, which stops any water passing until it is removed.
Transit can also shake a coin or bra wire that was sitting harmlessly in the sump into the pump, and it can loosen the pump’s electrical connector. Read our guide to a washing machine that won’t drain after being moved before you start stripping anything down.
04Is the drain pump running? The question that decides everything
Every drain fault splits into two families. Either the pump is running and the water has nowhere to go, or the pump is not running at all. Each family has completely different causes, so establishing which one you have saves hours.
With water in the drum, select a drain or spin programme and listen at the bottom front of the machine where the filter flap is. Most pumps make a steady whirr or hum that changes note when the water runs out and they start sucking air.
| What you hear | What it usually means | Where to look |
|---|---|---|
| Steady whirr or hum, no water leaving | Pump is running but the path is blocked, or the impeller has come loose from the motor shaft | Filter, pump chamber, drain hose, spigot, sump hose |
| Loud buzz or hum with no whirr | Pump has power but the impeller is jammed by an object | Pump chamber behind the filter |
| Rattling, grinding or a cavitation-like clatter | A hard object is loose in the pump chamber, or the pump is being starved of water by a restriction on its inlet side | Pump chamber, then the sump hose and any ball or flap inside it |
| Pump runs briefly then stops, water remains | Partial blockage, intermittent pump fault, or a drain timeout cutting the pump off | Filter and hose first, then the pump |
| Complete silence | No power to the pump, a failed pump motor, or a control fault | Fuse and socket, pump wiring, pump windings, control board |
Some Hotpoint, Indesit and Whirlpool machines only power the drain pump when the pressure switch detects water in the drum. If you test on an empty machine and hear nothing, that alone does not prove the pump has failed. Test with a few litres of water in the drum before you condemn it.
05What does the drain error code on my washing machine mean?
Modern machines monitor how long the drain phase takes. If the water level has not dropped within the allowed time, the programme stops and a drain code is displayed. The code does not tell you what is blocked, only that the machine gave up waiting.
These are the drain-related codes you are most likely to see on UK machines. Each links to the full brand guide on Whitegoods Help.
| Brand | Drain codes | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Bosch, Siemens, Neff | E18, F18, E03, F03, E23 | Drain timeout. E23 points at the pump itself rather than a blockage. |
| Hotpoint and Indesit | F05, F02 on Aqualtis, F18 on some models | Drain or waste water fault, door usually stays locked. F18 is a pump motor or wiring fault. |
| Whirlpool | FP, F03 | Drain pump fault or drain timeout. |
| Beko and Blomberg | E03, E3, H5 | Drain timeout. H5 is an engineer code for an open-circuit pump. |
| Candy and Hoover | E03 | Drain timeout, most often a blocked filter. |
| Zanussi, AEG, Electrolux | E20, E21, E22, E23, E24 | E20 and E21 are slow or failed drain. E22 to E24 point at the pump, its monitoring or its relay. |
| Samsung | 5E, 5C, SE, E2, nd | Water not draining within the allowed time. |
| LG | OE | Drain fault, machine could not empty. |
| Miele | F11, or a Drainage fault message | Drain restricted. Miele also specifies a maximum drain hose height of 1 metre. |
If your brand is not listed, the washing machine error codes hub covers Haier, Hisense, Gorenje, Bush, Logik and others. Whatever the code, the physical checks below are the same.
06How do I find the blockage? Check these in order
Work from the easiest and most likely cause to the hardest. On most machines you will find the problem at step one or two and never need to move the machine.
1. Is the pump filter blocked?
The pump filter sits behind a small flap or the kick-strip at the bottom front of the machine. It catches anything that gets past the drum holes before it reaches the pump, which means it also catches lint, hair and the slime that builds up from detergent and softener.
With the machine drained and unplugged, put a tray and towels down, turn the filter anticlockwise and pull it out. Clear anything you find, rinse the filter and shine a torch into the empty housing. Our washing machine pump filter guide covers filter locations by brand, stuck filters and machines with no accessible filter.
Miele W1 models with PowerWash have two filter caps side by side. Looking from the front, the left one is the drain pump and the right one is the PowerWash circulation pump. Both share one housing, and Miele’s own instructions state that each filter must go back on its correct side. Mixing them up or leaving one loose causes leaks and drain faults.
2. Is something jammed in the pump chamber?
With the filter out you are looking straight at the pump impeller, the small plastic paddle wheel that moves the water. Turn it gently with a finger. It should spin fairly freely, with a slight magnetic click once per turn, which is normal. If it won’t turn, or turns stiffly all the way round, something is wedged behind it.
Coins, hair grips, bra underwires, cocktail sticks and toy parts are the usual suspects. Pull them out with long-nose pliers or tweezers. If the impeller is floppy on its shaft, the pump needs replacing even though it may still make a normal noise.
3. Is the drain hose, spigot or U-bend blocked?
Pull the machine forward and look at the grey drain hose. Check it is not kinked, crushed against the wall or trapped under a foot of the machine. A hose that has been pushed back hard against a tiled wall can fold almost shut without looking damaged.
If the hose connects to a plastic spigot screwed to the U-bend under the sink, undo the hose and unscrew the spigot. Buttons and lint collect at the narrow end, and on a new fitting a blanking cap may still be inside. If the hose goes into a standpipe, pull it out and check the end of the hose and the top of the pipe for a build-up of lint and grease.
To check the full length of the hose, disconnect it at both ends, hold it firmly over a sink and run cold water backwards through it from a tap. The pressure is strong, so hold the connection tightly.
4. Is the sump hose blocked or kinked?
The sump hose is the large black rubber hose between the bottom of the outer tub and the pump housing. Heavy items such as coins and nails often sit here rather than travelling to the filter, and on some machines there is a ball or flap inside it that can jam. On older Hotpoint, Indesit, Candy and Hoover machines the filter itself is inside this hose.
Getting to the sump hose usually means tipping the machine or removing a panel, which is where many people sensibly stop and find a local engineer. If the drum has dropped because a suspension spring has failed, the sump hose can be kinked flat and the pump will run but move almost nothing.
Filter clean but still not draining?
If the pump runs, the filter is clear and the hose is free, the fault is further along the path or inside the pump itself. Our follow-on guide works through the hidden causes step by step.
07What if the pump is not running at all?
If the machine has power, the programme reaches the drain phase and the pump stays completely silent, a blockage is not the problem. Blockages cannot stop a pump from running. You are looking at a jam, a dead pump or a wiring or control fault.
It hums but doesn’t spin
The motor has power but the impeller cannot turn. Unplug the machine, remove the filter and clear whatever is wedged behind the impeller. If nothing is there and it still won’t turn, the pump bearing has seized and the pump needs replacing.
It is completely silent
Either no power is reaching the pump or its winding has burnt out. On many machines the pump connector is reachable from underneath or behind the kick-strip. Check it has not vibrated off, which is common after a move.
Testing the pump winding
With the machine unplugged and the connector removed, a continuity or resistance test across the two pump terminals shows whether the winding is intact. A typical synchronous drain pump reads somewhere in the low hundreds of ohms. An open circuit reading means the pump has failed. This needs a multimeter and some electrical knowledge, so leave it to an engineer if you are not confident.
Pump tests fine but never runs
If the winding is good and the wiring is sound, the control board or a pump relay is not switching the pump on. On Zanussi and AEG machines this shows as E24. This is engineer territory, because a board can only be tested properly with the machine live.
Checking whether 230 V is reaching the pump means working on a live appliance with the panels off. That is how people get killed. Resistance tests with the machine unplugged are safe. Anything live is for a qualified engineer only.
08Could the way the machine is installed be stopping it draining?
If every part of the machine checks out, look at the plumbing. Installation faults account for a surprising share of drain problems, especially in new kitchens, rented homes and after a move.
Height above the floor that most manufacturers specify for the top of the drain hose. Miele states a maximum of 1 metre. Always check your own manual.
Maximum depth Beko allows the drain hose to be pushed into a standpipe. Deeper than this on any brand risks siphoning and airlocks.
Siphoning
If the end of the drain hose sits below the water level in the drum, or is sealed into the waste pipe, water can siphon out during the wash so the machine keeps refilling, or dirty water can siphon back in. Fit the hook so the hose peaks at the manufacturer’s stated height and leave an air gap at the standpipe. See washing machine filling and draining at the same time.
Hose too high or too long
A small drain pump can only lift water so far. A hose run up to a high outlet, or extended with several metres of extra hose to reach a distant waste, may drain slowly or not at all and trigger a timeout code. Keep the run short and within the manual’s limit. Our guide to installing a washing machine drain hose shows the correct layout.
Blocked waste or U-bend
If the kitchen sink drains slowly too, the shared waste pipe is the problem rather than the machine. Fat and food waste collect in the U-bend and the pipe beyond it. Clear the sink waste before you blame the washing machine.
Shared waste with a dishwasher
Where a washing machine and dishwasher share one spigot or trap, each can push water into the other, and a blockage in the shared section stops both. Run the dishwasher and watch the washing machine hose for water flowing the wrong way.
09Why won’t my washing machine drain or spin?
Not spinning is almost always a symptom of not draining rather than a second fault. Every machine checks that the water has gone before it will spin, because spinning a drum full of water would wreck the bearings and flood the floor. Clear the drain fault and the spin usually comes back on its own.
If the machine drains fully but still refuses to spin, the water level sensing may be the problem. A blocked pressure chamber or a sticking pressure switch can tell the control board there is still water in the drum when there is not. See how a washing machine controls water levels and our guide to a washing machine not spinning.
An out-of-balance load can also leave clothes soaking wet without any drain fault at all. The machine drains, tries to spin, detects the imbalance and stops. Redistribute the load and run a spin on its own before you go looking for a blockage.
10How much does it cost to fix a washing machine that won’t drain?
This is one of the cheapest washing machine faults to put right. The figures below are UK rates for independent repair from our washing machine repair cost guide, October 2026, with parts prices checked on UK spares retailers in November 2026. Manufacturer service and London rates tend to sit at the top of each band or above.
| Fix | Typical UK cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Clearing the pump filter yourself | £0 | Ten minutes, towels and a tray. Fixes the majority of drain faults. |
| Engineer diagnostic visit | £60 to £95 | Often credited against the repair if you go ahead. Covers clearing a blockage on the day. |
| Compatible replacement drain pump, part only | £12 to £32 | Non-genuine pumps for common Hotpoint, Beko, Candy and Hoover models. |
| Genuine replacement drain pump, part only | £28 to £57 | Beko and Hotpoint genuine pumps. Premium brands cost more. |
| Drain pump replaced by an engineer | £110 to £200 | Parts and labour. Worth doing on any machine under ten years old. |
Worth repairing
- Any blockage, whatever the age of the machine
- Failed drain pump on a machine under ten years old
- Loose wiring or a displaced connector
- Installation faults, which cost nothing to correct
Think carefully
- Failed control board on a budget machine over seven years old
- Drain fault caused by a dropped drum, where the real cost is the suspension or bearings
- Machines with no spare parts support
- Second major fault in a year on an old machine
11How do I stop my washing machine blocking again?
Most repeat drain faults are the same thing coming back: lint and debris that never got cleared from the whole path, or a habit that keeps feeding objects into the machine.
Clean the pump filter every one to three months, and straight away after any drain fault. Manufacturers recommend it and almost nobody does it.
Empty pockets. Coins, hair grips and tissues are the engineer’s top three finds.
Wash underwired bras in a mesh bag. A loose underwire is the single most common cause of a jammed filter and a damaged pump.
Run a hot maintenance wash monthly to clear the detergent and softener sludge that narrows the hoses. See why your washing machine smells.
After pushing the machine back, check the drain hose is not kinked or trapped before you run it.
Refit the filter firmly after cleaning. A loose filter leaks and lets air into the pump housing. See cleaned the pump filter and now it leaks.
12When should I call an engineer?
Clearing the filter, checking the hose and removing an object from the pump chamber are jobs anyone careful can do. Beyond that, the balance tips towards an engineer, partly for safety and partly because the next steps need the machine tipped or opened up.
Draining the machine, cleaning the pump filter, freeing the impeller, checking and flushing the drain hose, checking the U-bend spigot for a blanking cap, correcting the hose height.
Removing the sump hose, replacing the pump, any live electrical testing, a dropped drum, a pressure switch or control board fault, or any job where the machine has to be laid down or opened up.
Need an engineer or a replacement pump?
Compare local appliance engineers by postcode, or order the correct drain pump or filter for your exact model number and fit it yourself.
13Safety notice
Always unplug the machine before opening the filter, reaching into the pump or disconnecting any hose. Switching it off at the control panel is not enough.
Never lay a washing machine on its side or back with water inside it. Water runs into the motor and control board and the machine may be scrap. Drain it first and have a second person tilt it back while it stays upright.
Internal panels have sharp machined edges. Wear gloves. Water from a hot wash can scald long after the programme stopped.
Resistance tests with the machine unplugged are safe for a competent person. Any test that needs the machine live is for a qualified engineer only. If you are not confident at any step, stop and find an engineer. Full guidance is in our DIY appliance repair safety guide.
14Frequently asked questions
Why is my washing machine not draining?
The most common cause is a blocked pump filter, followed by an object jammed in the pump, a blocked or kinked drain hose, and a drain pump that has failed. On recently installed machines, a blanking cap left in the U-bend spigot or a drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe are also common. Find out whether the pump is running first, because that decides where to look.
How do I drain a washing machine that is full of water?
Unplug it, put towels and a shallow tray in front of the filter flap at the bottom front, and either use the small emergency drain hose if fitted or unscrew the filter slowly a quarter turn at a time so you can control the flow. Our guide to draining a washing machine covers machines without a filter too.
How do I know if the drain pump is broken?
Run a drain programme with water in the drum and listen at the bottom front. A hum with no whirr means the impeller is jammed. Complete silence with power to the machine suggests a failed pump, loose wiring or a control fault. A pump that runs normally but moves no water may have an impeller that has come loose from its shaft. With the machine unplugged, a resistance test across the pump terminals confirms whether the winding is intact.
Why won’t my washing machine drain or spin?
Machines will not spin until they detect the water has drained, so a drain fault usually shows up as no spin as well. Clear the drain fault first. If it drains fully but still won’t spin, suspect a blocked pressure chamber, a faulty pressure switch or an out-of-balance load. See our guide to a washing machine not spinning.
How much does it cost to replace a washing machine drain pump in the UK?
A replacement pump costs roughly £12 to £32 for a compatible part or £28 to £57 for a genuine Beko or Hotpoint pump, checked November 2026. Having an engineer supply and fit one typically costs £110 to £200 including labour, based on October 2026 UK rates. Clearing a blockage usually costs nothing beyond a diagnostic visit of £60 to £95 if you call someone out.
Can I run the washing machine with the pump filter removed to test it?
You can run a short drain or spin programme with the filter out and watch the impeller with a torch, which is a useful test. Do not run a wash programme, because the machine will fill and the water will pour out of the filter opening onto the floor. Refit the filter firmly afterwards or it will leak.
Still not fixed?
Here’s where to go next.
14 Comments
Grouped into 13 comment threads.
0 replies Hi, Andy You are right, after repeatedly draining the pipe some other rubbish have got out and it suddenly started working as usual. My Hoover is at least 30 years old and I was shocked to see that it is working again. I had no knowledge of even how to open it, just read everything on the website. Thank you for saving me from extra headache before Christmas.
0 replies Hi Natilie, It's a shame the plastic bag wasn't the only cause, maybe there was something else stuck in too. I'm always careful to give only general advice which would help a knowledgeable person with experience repairing other products or diy etc to have a better understanding. My articles are deliberately general and I never give explicit instructions because I think it's unwise to start trying to fix any appliance if not already experienced at repairing things unless it's just straight forward things like checking a filter, fuse, or inside a hose.
0 replies I studied this website for several days and watched a lot of videos , was inspired by all comments and with broken index finger removed pump, hoses and top of machine , machine does not have filter. It took me 3 full days and flood in the kitchen but I found a plastic bag in the hose. Machine still does not spin proper or drain. Had to buy new machine and also have to pay for removal of old one. Disappointing, this website is not for everyone.
I studied this website for several days and watched a lot of videos , was inspired by all comments and with broken index finger removed pump, hoses and top of machine , machine does not have filter. It took me 3 full days and flood in the kitchen but I found a plastic bag in the hose.
Machine still does not spin proper or drain. Had to buy new machine and also have to pay for removal of old one. Disappointing, this website is not for everyone.
0 replies Curly: I'm not familiar with the filter in question. However if a peace has broken off then this piece itself may have jammed in the U bend connector if it is plumbed in to drain through the U bend. Another possibility is that the filter has let some of the hair (or something else) through which may also get jammed. If your washing machine pumps into a standard drain pipe then this won't be the case. But if it is connected to a plastic spigot which screws onto the U bend, as most are these days, then unscrew it and check for blockages.
Curly: I’m not familiar with the filter in question. However if a peace has broken off then this piece itself may have jammed in the U bend connector if it is plumbed in to drain through the U bend. Another possibility is that the filter has let some of the hair (or something else) through which may also get jammed. If your washing machine pumps into a standard drain pipe then this won’t be the case. But if it is connected to a plastic spigot which screws onto the U bend, as most are these days, then unscrew it and check for blockages.
0 replies hello. My washing machine is not draining. It is a front loader. I have tried to remove the filter in front, but it just keeps spinning around. How do I pull it out?
hello. My washing machine is not draining. It is a front loader. I have tried to remove the filter in front, but it just keeps spinning around. How do I pull it out?
0 replies I would definitely change the pump Gary.
I would definitely change the pump Gary.
0 replies Hi. We have a Whirlpool AWM6145/3 washing machine which has displayed an FP fault and is not draining and also makes a rattling noise. I have drained the machine and taken out the filter and noticed that the impeller came away. I did manage to stick it back on but after two successful wash cycles the machine is making the same rattling noise and showing the same FP fault message. Does the machine require a new pump or is there something more heavy duty that I can use to stick the impeller on with. Thanks Gary
Hi. We have a Whirlpool AWM6145/3 washing machine which has displayed an FP fault and is not draining and also makes a rattling noise. I have drained the machine and taken out the filter and noticed that the impeller came away. I did manage to stick it back on but after two successful wash cycles the machine is making the same rattling noise and showing the same FP fault message. Does the machine require a new pump or is there something more heavy duty that I can use to stick the impeller on with. Thanks Gary
0 replies Yeah thanks andy, i checked the impeller first up... clear view of it and there is nothing jamming or blocking... can turn the impeller by hand (fingers) and still has strong magnetic pull as it goes past the magnets inside the motor... I also noticed last night a bit of a grinding noise upon one of the restarts that sounded like plastic gears not meshing correctly... i'm not sure how the pump motor drives the impeller but maybe there are some worn gears in there somewhere binding up causing an overheat in the motor... either way I think I have to bite the bullet and get a new pump motor... cheers, alex
Yeah thanks andy, i checked the impeller first up… clear view of it and there is nothing jamming or blocking… can turn the impeller by hand (fingers) and still has strong magnetic pull as it goes past the magnets inside the motor… I also noticed last night a bit of a grinding noise upon one of the restarts that sounded like plastic gears not meshing correctly… i’m not sure how the pump motor drives the impeller but maybe there are some worn gears in there somewhere binding up causing an overheat in the motor… either way I think I have to bite the bullet and get a new pump motor… cheers, alex
1 reply Hi. Not sure if this is the right place to post this but I have a samsung sw65v9w top load washing machine... it starts pumping water as normal (nice strong flow doesn't seem blocked) but after about a minute the pump just stops completely, the counter continues to count down but there is just a faint whirr coming from the machine... if I pause and restart the cycle you can hear relays clicking but it wont restart the pump... however if I leave it on pause and wait 5 minutes or so and restart the cycle the pump starts as normal and pumps as per normal... could it be possible the pump motor is overheating and shutting off and able to restart only after cooling for 5 mins or so? Or could the problem be circuit board related? Appreciate your advice thanks in advance :)
Hi. Not sure if this is the right place to post this but I have a samsung sw65v9w top load washing machine… it starts pumping water as normal (nice strong flow doesn’t seem blocked) but after about a minute the pump just stops completely, the counter continues to count down but there is just a faint whirr coming from the machine… if I pause and restart the cycle you can hear relays clicking but it wont restart the pump… however if I leave it on pause and wait 5 minutes or so and restart the cycle the pump starts as normal and pumps as per normal… could it be possible the pump motor is overheating and shutting off and able to restart only after cooling for 5 mins or so? Or could the problem be circuit board related? Appreciate your advice thanks in advance :)
0 replies Zaf: If the pump is open circuit it would be faulty and need replacing, but pumps can have quite high resistance so you'd need to make sure you were testing it with a meter on the right range settings if it's a multi meter. If the pump just isn't running when you put it on drain or spin then it may well be open circuit. If it is running but no water is pumping out and you can't see any blockages try this article Can’t Find a Blockage But Washing Machine Still Not Draining
Zaf: If the pump is open circuit it would be faulty and need replacing, but pumps can have quite high resistance so you’d need to make sure you were testing it with a meter on the right range settings if it’s a multi meter. If the pump just isn’t running when you put it on drain or spin then it may well be open circuit.
If it is running but no water is pumping out and you can’t see any blockages try this article Can’t Find a Blockage But Washing Machine Still Not Draining
0 replies I am wits end trying to understand what's going on.I have checked the filter at the bottom left hand corner.No obstructions.I have taken the outlet pipe to see if any obstruction and I don't feel anything.I now have taken the front cover and felt the hose pipe between the Drum and the drain pump and I don't feel any obstructions.I have also felt the outlet pipe from the drain pump to outlet pipe and no obstructions. I now have removed the drain pump to see if anything wrong with the drain pump.It look O.K to me but when I place a voltmeter between the two terminals there is no buzz.(continuity test). Washing machine is Miele Premier Novo. Error message Check Drain.
I am wits end trying to understand what’s going on.I have checked the filter at the bottom left hand corner.No obstructions.I have taken the outlet pipe to see if any obstruction and I don’t feel anything.I now have taken the front cover and felt the hose pipe between the Drum and the drain pump and I don’t feel any obstructions.I have also felt the outlet pipe from the drain pump to outlet pipe and no obstructions. I now have removed the drain pump to see if anything wrong with the drain pump.It look O.K to me but when I place a voltmeter between the two terminals there is no buzz.(continuity test).
Washing machine is Miele Premier Novo.
Error message Check Drain.
0 replies Sounds like something like a big sock may be jammed inside the sump hose and somehow preventing the filter from coming off. I would put a load of towels and or cotton sheets down to soak up water and lay the machine back onto something like a bowl or with the help of someone carefully holding it lay it back against something so you can get underneath and disconnect the sump hose. Obviously disconnect the machine first. This will result in all the water coming out and it could get messy. There might be a full bowlful of water in there. There's no other way unless you force the filter out and probably break it. It may be possible to release the clip holding the filter and then in a controlled way pull it partially off to let it drain into a bowl or bucket and pushing it back on whilst you empty the water. Try to do it with someone to help.
Sounds like something like a big sock may be jammed inside the sump hose and somehow preventing the filter from coming off. I would put a load of towels and or cotton sheets down to soak up water and lay the machine back onto something like a bowl or with the help of someone carefully holding it lay it back against something so you can get underneath and disconnect the sump hose. Obviously disconnect the machine first.
This will result in all the water coming out and it could get messy. There might be a full bowlful of water in there. There’s no other way unless you force the filter out and probably break it. It may be possible to release the clip holding the filter and then in a controlled way pull it partially off to let it drain into a bowl or bucket and pushing it back on whilst you empty the water. Try to do it with someone to help.
0 replies Bosch Exxcell machine won't empty. Due to be collected tomorrow and needs to be empty. Have tried rear drain hose & front mini hose with no success. Can't budge filter opening at all even with a wrench. Have bailed out what I can but don't think it's enough. Any suggestions?
Bosch Exxcell machine won’t empty.
Due to be collected tomorrow and needs to be empty.
Have tried rear drain hose & front mini hose with no success. Can’t budge filter opening at all even with a wrench. Have bailed out what I can but don’t think it’s enough.
Any suggestions?
Hi, Andy
You are right, after repeatedly draining the pipe some other rubbish have got out and it suddenly started working as usual.
My Hoover is at least 30 years old and I was shocked to see that it is working again.
I had no knowledge of even how to open it, just read everything on the website.
Thank you for saving me from extra headache before Christmas.