Should I Buy a ‘Smart’ Appliance?
Hotpoint and Indesit have issued an urgent safety notice affecting 17 gas cooker models produced between October and November 2024. A potential gas leak from the lid shut-off valve means affected appliances must be switched off and not used until the issue is resolved.
If you own a Hotpoint or Indesit gas cooker, check whether your model is affected right now. Do not use the appliance until you have confirmed it is safe.
Hotpoint and Indesit have recalled 17 gas cooker models made between 25 October and 22 November 2024 due to a risk of gas leaking from the lid shut-off valve. If your model is on the affected list, stop using it immediately and contact Hotpoint or Indesit via the official safety site to arrange a free remedy.
What Is the Safety Issue?
Hotpoint and Indesit have identified a potential fault in the lid shut-off valve on certain gas cooker models. After repeated use over time, the valve may develop a gas leak – creating a serious risk of fire or explosion in the home.
The fault affects a specific production batch manufactured between 25 October and 22 November 2024. Appliances made outside this window are not believed to be affected, but you should always verify using the official manufacturer tool.
Do not rely solely on model lists published on websites – including this one. Lists can contain errors or become outdated. Always verify your specific appliance directly with the manufacturer using the official safety site.
Which Models Are Affected?
The following 17 Hotpoint and Indesit gas cooker models are listed as potentially affected. Check your model number on the rating plate – usually found inside the oven door or on the back of the appliance.
Hotpoint Models
| Model Number |
|---|
| HDM67G0CCX/UK |
| HDM67G0CCB/UK |
| HDM67G9C2CB/UK |
| CD67G0CCX/UK |
| HDM67G0C2CX/UK |
| HDM67G0CCW/UK |
| HDM67G9C2CX/UK |
| HDM67G9C2CW/UK |
| HDM67G0C2CB/UK |
| CD67G0C2CA/UK |
| HD67G02CCW/UK |
| HDM67G9C2CSB/UK |
| HDM67G8C2CX/UK |
Indesit Models
| Model Number |
|---|
| ID67G0MCW/UK |
| ID67G0MCX/UK |
| ID67G0MCB/UK |
| ID67G0MMB/UK |
Your appliance must also fall within the production batch of 25 October – 22 November 2024 to be affected. The official safety site will confirm this when you enter your model and serial number.
What Should You Do Right Now?
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Stop using the appliance immediately if you believe your cooker may be on the affected list. Do not use it until you have checked and received confirmation it is safe.
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Find your model number. Check the rating plate on your cooker – usually found on the inside of the oven door frame, or on the back of the appliance.
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Check the official safety site. Enter your model and serial number at hotpointindesitgascookersafety.com to confirm whether your appliance is affected.
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Register for a remedy. If your appliance is confirmed as affected, follow the instructions on the safety site to arrange a free repair or replacement from Hotpoint or Indesit.
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Tell others. If you know anyone with a Hotpoint or Indesit gas cooker, share this notice with them so they can check their appliance too.
Check your cooker now on the official safety site
This is the only reliable way to confirm whether your specific appliance is affected. The check takes less than a minute.
Gas Safety: What You Need to Know
A gas leak in the home is a serious hazard. If you smell gas at any time – whether or not your cooker is on the affected list – you should act immediately:
- Do not turn any electrical switches on or off
- Do not use a naked flame or smoke indoors
Open windows and doors to ventilate the property- Turn off the gas supply at the meter if it is safe to do so
- Leave the property immediately
- Call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999 (free, 24 hours)
Gas appliance repairs must only be carried out by a Gas Safe registered engineer. You can find a registered engineer at GasSafeRegister.co.uk. For general appliance safety advice, see our appliance safety guide.
What Are You Entitled To?
If your appliance is confirmed as affected, Hotpoint and Indesit are obligated to provide a remedy at no cost to you. This will be confirmed through the official safety site, but may include a free repair carried out by an engineer or a replacement appliance.
For more information on your rights when an appliance is subject to a safety recall, see our guide to consumer rights and appliances.
You are entitled to
A free remedy – repair or replacement – arranged by Hotpoint or Indesit. You should not have to pay anything.
Do not
Attempt to continue using the appliance, carry out your own repair, or pay for a third-party repair before contacting the manufacturer.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my cooker is affected?
Check your model number against the list above, then verify using the official manufacturer safety site at hotpointindesitgascookersafety.com. Your model number is on the rating plate, usually found on the inside of the oven door frame.
My model is on the list – can I still use my cooker?
No. If your model appears on the affected list and was produced in the relevant batch, you should stop using the appliance immediately. Contact Hotpoint or Indesit via the official safety site to arrange a free remedy before using it again.
What is a lid shut-off valve?
The lid shut-off valve is a safety mechanism on freestanding gas cookers with a drop-down lid. When the lid is closed, the valve automatically cuts off the gas supply to the burners. The fault identified in this notice means this valve may develop a gas leak after repeated use over time.
I can smell gas – what should I do?
Do not touch any electrical switches. Open windows and doors, turn off the gas at the meter if safe to do so, leave the property immediately, and call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999 (free, 24 hours).
Will the repair or replacement be free?
Yes. Safety recalls are carried out at no cost to the consumer. You should not be asked to pay for any repair or replacement related to this safety notice. Register via the official safety site at hotpointindesitgascookersafety.com.
Are other Hotpoint or Indesit appliances affected?
This safety notice relates specifically to the 17 gas cooker models listed above, produced between 25 October and 22 November 2024. Other Hotpoint and Indesit appliances are not believed to be affected by this particular issue. For other safety notices, see our appliance safety page.
Gas Emergency – 0800 111 999
If you can smell gas, call the National Gas Emergency Service immediately. Free, 24 hours.
Other Safety Notices
Is a hot and cold fill washing machine more economical?
Many people assume that a washing machine with a hot water valve must be more economical – after all, using pre-heated water seems like it should save electricity. But the reality of how UK homes deliver hot water means this assumption is usually wrong. This guide explains why, using a simple practical experiment to make the point clearly.
In most UK homes, a cold-fill washing machine is more economical than one that can draw on both hot and cold water. The reason is straightforward: modern washing machines use very little water, and hot water takes too long to travel from its source to be useful. By the time genuinely hot water arrives, the machine has often already filled. The cold water wasted running the hot tap in advance can exceed the entire wash water volume.
Why Hot Fill Sounds Sensible – but Usually Isn’t
The logic behind hot and cold fill machines is appealing. If your boiler or hot water cylinder has already heated water, using that pre-heated supply should mean the washing machine’s heating element does less work – saving electricity.
This reasoning is sound in principle. But it rests on an assumption that is rarely true in UK homes: that hot water arrives at the machine quickly enough to be useful.
When hot fill could work
Your hot water cylinder or boiler is located very close to the washing machine. Hot water arrives within a few seconds of turning on the tap. The machine fills slowly enough that a meaningful volume of hot water enters the drum before the fill level is reached.
The typical UK reality
Hot water tanks are usually located upstairs. Combi boilers may take 30 seconds or more to deliver genuinely hot water. Modern washing machines fill quickly and use far less water than older models. By the time hot water arrives at the machine, filling is often already complete.
The Practical Experiment: How Much Water Is Actually Used?
Our engineers carried out a simple experiment to demonstrate the issue in concrete terms. The results are instructive.
How much cold water runs before the hot tap delivers hot water?
We ran the hot tap into a washing up bowl and measured how much water had flowed before it became genuinely hot. The result: approximately one full washing up bowl of cold water ran from the hot tap before any hot water arrived.
That cold water is wasted. It goes down the drain before hot water can reach the machine – and in many UK homes the situation is worse, particularly where the hot water cylinder is far from the kitchen or utility room.
How much water does a washing machine actually use in the main wash?
We then measured how much water a washing machine used during a complete main wash cycle on a Cottons 40°C programme. The result: approximately the same volume as the bowl of cold water wasted running the hot tap.
In the experiment, the volume of cold water wasted waiting for the hot tap was almost identical to the entire wash water volume. A hot and cold fill machine would need to fill almost entirely from the hot supply just to get a small amount of hot water entering at the very end. In most households, the practical contribution of hot fill to the wash temperature is negligible.
The Hidden Inefficiencies of Hot Fill
Beyond the basic problem of delayed delivery, hot fill washing introduces additional inefficiencies that are rarely discussed.
Cold water wasted before hot arrivesEvery time the hot tap runs, cold water sitting in the pipe must be displaced before hot water can flow. This wasted water has to be heated again the next time the tap is used, consuming energy for no benefit at the machine.
Cylinder cooling as hot water is drawnWhen hot water is drawn from a storage cylinder, cold water enters to replace it, cooling the stored volume. The cylinder then has to reheat to restore temperature – using energy that was not needed if the washing machine had simply heated cold water itself.
Unpredictable delivery temperatureModern washing machines are not designed to compensate for variable incoming water temperature. If hot water arrives partway through a fill at an unpredictable temperature, the machine cannot reliably control the final wash temperature. Cold-fill machines heat from a known baseline, giving consistent results.
Very small wash water volumeModern machines use significantly less water than older designs – sometimes as little as 6-8 litres for a main wash cycle. This small volume means the window for hot water to arrive and make a meaningful contribution is extremely narrow.
When Might Hot Fill Actually Help?
There are circumstances where a hot and cold fill machine could deliver a genuine efficiency benefit – but they are uncommon in typical UK homes.
- The washing machine is in a utility room directly adjacent to a hot water cylinder, with a very short pipe run
- Hot water arrives at the tap within five to ten seconds of opening the valve
- The machine’s fill cycle is slow enough that hot water genuinely enters the drum in meaningful volume
- The machine is used for high-temperature washes (60°C or above) regularly, where the energy saving from preheated water is larger
If your kitchen or utility room is far from the hot water source, or you have a combi boiler where hot water delivery takes time, hot fill is unlikely to offer any practical benefit.
What About the Common Belief That Hot Fill Saves Money?
The belief that using hot water is inherently more economical comes from an older era of appliance design. Earlier washing machines used much larger volumes of water and heated it slowly using lower-power elements. In that context, drawing on already-heated water from a cylinder made genuine sense.
Modern machines are fundamentally different. They heat water quickly with high-power elements, use far less water, and fill in a short time. The opportunity for pre-heated water to contribute meaningfully has largely disappeared.
Washing machines are not sophisticated enough to handle the wide variation in how hot water is delivered across different UK homes – especially when the delay before hot water arrives can range from seconds to over a minute. Cold-fill machines remove this variable entirely, heating from a known cold baseline and delivering consistent wash temperatures regardless of your plumbing setup.
Buying a washing machine or looking for more detail?
Our guides cover everything from cold fill versus hot and cold fill to energy ratings, reliability, and what really matters when choosing a machine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a hot and cold fill washing machine more economical than a cold fill?
In most UK homes, no. The potential saving from using pre-heated water is undermined by the fact that modern machines use very little water and fill quickly. Cold water wasted waiting for the hot tap often exceeds the entire wash water volume. Unless hot water arrives at your machine within a few seconds, a cold-fill machine is almost certainly more economical for typical use.
Why don’t modern washing machines have hot water valves?
Most modern UK washing machines are cold-fill only because, for the majority of homes, a cold-fill machine is more practical and often more economical. Manufacturers moved away from dual-fill designs as water usage per cycle fell and heating element technology improved. A cold-fill machine provides consistent, controllable wash temperatures regardless of the home’s plumbing configuration. See our guide: cold fill washing machines.
How much water does a modern washing machine use in the main wash?
Modern washing machines typically use between 6 and 15 litres of water for a main wash cycle, depending on the programme and load size. This is significantly less than older machines, which could use 40 litres or more. The small volume is one of the key reasons hot fill is rarely effective – there is simply not enough water filling time for meaningful hot water to arrive from a distant source.
Can I connect a cold-fill machine to my hot water supply?
Cold-fill machines are designed to be connected to the cold water supply only. Connecting them to hot water can cause problems – including filling with water that is too hot at the start of a cycle, which can damage fabrics and affect the machine’s internal components. Some people do connect cold-fill machines to hot taps to raise wash temperatures, but this is not recommended and can void the manufacturer’s guarantee. See our guide: connecting a cold fill machine to a hot tap.
Does using a cold-fill machine cost more to run than using a hot water supply?
Not in most cases. A cold-fill machine heats exactly the water it needs, from a cold baseline, using a built-in element. A hot and cold fill machine may save electricity on the heating element but typically wastes water and energy in the pipe run before hot water arrives, and causes the hot water cylinder to reheat more frequently. For most households the overall running cost is similar or lower with cold fill.
Colour Catchers Can Block Washing Machine Pumps
Colour catcher sheets are a convenient laundry product – but they carry a risk that is not mentioned on the packaging. Their small size means they can be pulled into the gap between the drum and the door seal, and from there into the pump system. Our engineers have seen this fault multiple times. This guide explains the risk, how to check whether your machine is vulnerable, and how to use them safely if you choose to continue.
If a sheet gets pulled through the door seal gap, it can jam the pump or block the pump filter – leaving the machine full of water and unable to drain. This has been confirmed across multiple machine brands and models.
Colour catcher sheets are small enough to slip through the gap between the drum and the door seal during a wash. Once inside, they can jam the drain pump or block the pump filter, stopping the machine from draining. The risk varies by machine – a wider door seal gap significantly increases it. Using a mesh laundry bag to contain the sheet removes most of the risk without affecting how it works.
What Are Colour Catchers and Why Is There a Problem?
Colour catcher sheets – sometimes called colour and dirt collector sheets – are designed to absorb loose dye released during washing and prevent it from transferring to other items in the load. They are marketed as a way to wash mixed loads of whites and coloureds together safely.
In principle this is useful. In practice, washing whites and coloureds separately remains the recommended approach, not least because the two need different detergents – whites need bleaching agents to stay bright, while colours need a detergent without bleach to prevent fading. Colour catchers do not address the detergent issue.
The practical problem is the sheets themselves. They are very small – typically around the size of a large postage stamp – and made from thin, lightweight fabric. During a wash cycle, water circulation and drum movement create suction in the gap between the drum and the rubber door seal. Small, lightweight items can be pulled into this gap and, from there, dragged into the pump system.
How a Colour Catcher Sheet Can Break Your Washing Machine
Step 1: Sheet gets pulled into the door seal gapWater movement during the wash creates suction at the gap between the drum and the door seal. A small, lightweight sheet can be pulled through this gap during the cycle. Whether this happens depends on the size of the gap and the stiffness of the rubber seal.
Step 2: Sheet enters the pump systemOnce through the door seal, the sheet travels down through the drum into the water that collects at the bottom of the machine. From there, water is pumped out via the drain pump. The sheet travels with the water and enters the pump system.
Step 3: Pump jams or filter blocksInside the pump, the sheet can wrap around the impeller and jam it – stopping the pump entirely. Alternatively it may block the pump filter, restricting or stopping drainage. Either way, the machine stops mid-cycle with water remaining in the drum.
Result: Machine full of water, won’t drainA jammed pump or blocked filter means the machine cannot drain and may show an error code or simply stop responding. The sheet must be retrieved from the pump or filter before the machine will function again. See our guide: how to clean the pump filter.
Check the pump filter first. The sheet may have collected there rather than fully entering the pump, making retrieval straightforward. See: washing machine won’t drain – full guide.
How to Check Whether Your Machine Is at Risk
The key variable is the gap between the drum and the door seal. Check it before using colour catcher sheets.
Lower risk – small, firm gap
If the gap between the drum edge and the rubber seal is very narrow (2-3mm or less) and the rubber is firm and close-fitting, a colour catcher sheet is much less likely to be pulled through. The suction effect is reduced and the physical gap is too small for the sheet to pass easily.
Higher risk – wider or softer gap
If the gap is noticeably wider – some machines have gaps of 10-15mm – or if the door seal rubber is soft, flexible, or distorted with age, the risk is significantly higher. A small sheet can be drawn through a gap of this size during normal water circulation in the drum.
To check: with the machine empty and switched off, run a finger around the inside of the door seal and assess how wide the gap is between the rubber and the drum. If you can fit more than the tip of a finger into the gap, consider your machine higher risk for this problem.
How to Use Colour Catchers Safely
If you want to continue using colour catcher sheets, there are straightforward ways to significantly reduce the risk.
- Place the sheet inside a mesh laundry bag. This is the most effective solution. A laundry bag (also called a wash net) makes the sheet too large to pass through the door seal gap, while still allowing water and dye to pass through the mesh freely. The sheet functions exactly as intended without the risk of being lost in the pump.
- Place the sheet towards the back of the drum. If not using a laundry bag, position the sheet on top of the laundry load, slightly towards the back of the drum rather than near the door. This keeps it further from the door seal gap where suction is strongest.
- Do not overload the machine. An overloaded drum pushes laundry hard against the door seal and can force lightweight items into the gap. Leave enough space that the load moves freely during the wash.
- Avoid laundry pressing directly against the door seal. If clothing bunches up against the door at the start of the cycle, rearrange it before starting. Items jammed against the seal increase the risk of small pieces being drawn through.
- Check the filter if a sheet goes missing. If you cannot account for a colour catcher sheet at the end of a wash, check the pump filter before running another cycle. Better to find it there than after a breakdown. See: washing machine pump filter guide.
Mesh laundry bags cost very little and are widely available. Keeping a dedicated bag solely for colour catcher sheets means you can use them without any additional thought about placement or drum loading.
My Machine Stopped With Water in the Drum – What Should I Do?
If the machine has stopped draining after a wash that included a colour catcher sheet, the sheet is likely in the pump filter or the pump itself.
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Do not run another cycle. Running the machine again with a blocked pump or filter can damage the pump motor and make the situation worse.
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Drain the machine manually. Access the pump filter at the front bottom of the machine. Place towels and a shallow tray in front of it, then slowly open the filter cap to allow water to drain out gradually. See our full guide: how to access and clean the pump filter.
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Check the filter for the sheet. With the water drained, unscrew and remove the filter fully. The colour catcher sheet may have collected here. If found, remove it, clean the filter, refit it securely, and test the machine.
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If the filter is clear, the pump may be jammed. If draining restores function and the filter is clear but the problem returns, the sheet may be inside the pump itself. At this point, booking an engineer is the practical next step. See: book a repair engineer.
Machine stopped draining?
If the pump is blocked or jammed and you cannot clear it through the filter, an engineer can retrieve the obstruction and test the pump for damage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can colour catcher sheets really break a washing machine?
Yes – this is a confirmed and recurring problem. Our engineers have seen multiple cases across different machine brands where a colour catcher sheet has been pulled into the pump system, jamming the pump or blocking the filter and leaving the machine full of water. The problem is not widely known because it is not mentioned on the product packaging.
How does the sheet get into the pump?
During the wash, water circulation creates suction at the gap between the drum and the rubber door seal. Small, lightweight items can be drawn through this gap. Once through, the sheet falls into the water at the bottom of the machine and is carried into the drain pump when the machine attempts to empty. It can then jam the pump impeller or collect in the pump filter.
How do I know if my machine is at risk?
Check the gap between the drum edge and the door seal rubber when the machine is empty. A gap of more than a few millimetres – particularly if the rubber is soft or distorted – represents a meaningful risk. Some machines have gaps of 10-15mm, which is more than wide enough for a colour catcher sheet to pass through.
What is the safest way to use colour catcher sheets?
Place the sheet inside a mesh laundry bag before putting it in the machine. The bag makes it too bulky to pass through the door seal gap while still allowing water and dye to flow freely through the mesh. This eliminates the risk without affecting how the sheet works. Alternatively, avoid overloading the machine and position the sheet towards the back of the drum, away from the door seal.
The sheet has disappeared – where is it?
If you cannot find the colour catcher sheet at the end of a wash, check the pump filter before running another cycle. Access the filter at the front bottom of the machine – the sheet may have collected there. If the filter is clear and the machine is draining normally, the sheet may have drained away. If the machine is not draining, the sheet has likely jammed the pump. See our guide: washing machine pump filter guide.
Do colour catchers actually work as advertised?
They do absorb loose dye to some extent, which can reduce colour transfer in mixed loads. However, they do not address the underlying reason whites and coloureds should be washed separately – which is that the two require different detergents. Whites need bleaching agents to maintain brightness; coloureds need detergent without bleach to prevent fading. Colour catchers are a practical compromise for convenience rather than a complete solution.
Washing at 30 degrees 5 things you need to know
Washing at 30 degrees is widely promoted as an easy way to save money and energy. The advice is not wrong – but it is incomplete. There are important considerations that could easily leave you financially worse off, or with a washing machine that deteriorates faster than it should. Here are five things worth understanding before switching to low temperature washing.
Washing at 30 degrees can save energy, but the savings per wash are smaller than headline percentages suggest. More importantly, washing exclusively at low temperatures can cause grease, slime, and bacteria to build up inside the machine over time – requiring hot maintenance washes that consume energy and potentially shortening the machine’s life. Understanding these trade-offs allows you to use low temperature washing sensibly rather than blindly.
If a garment label specifies 30 degrees, wash at that temperature regardless of this guide. Ignoring wash care labels can permanently damage fabric. The points below apply to everyday cottons and mixed loads where you have a choice of temperature.
1. Your Washing Machine May Not Wash Properly at 30 Degrees
Most washing machines have a 30 degree cycle – but not all 30 degree cycles are the same. Before assuming the machine will wash normal laundry properly at this temperature, it is worth checking what type of 30 degree programme your machine actually offers.
Many machines have a 30 degree setting that is designed specifically for delicates. A delicates cycle is short, uses a very gentle drum action, and ends with a slow spin. This is not suitable for cottons or heavier mixed loads – it will not clean them properly.
To wash everyday laundry effectively at 30 degrees, the machine needs either a dedicated 30 degree cottons programme, or the ability to manually select 30 degrees on a standard cottons wash cycle. Check the instruction manual to confirm which type of 30 degree programme your machine offers and what laundry types it is designed for before switching.
Check the programme guide for the 30 degree setting: what types of laundry is it designed for, and what is the final spin speed? A full-speed spin on a proper cottons programme is a good sign. A slow or gentle spin suggests the 30 degree cycle is intended for delicates only.
2. Low Temperature Washes Have Real Limitations
Washing at 30 degrees works well for lightly soiled everyday laundry. It has genuine limitations that are worth understanding before relying on it as your default temperature.
Heavy stains
Stubborn stains – dried food with strong colour, thick grease, heavy mud, or grass – are unlikely to be removed at 30 degrees. They need either a higher temperature wash or pre-treatment (soaking with detergent or a stain remover) before going in the machine. Washing a heavily stained item at 30 degrees and then having to wash it again at 40 or 60 uses more energy overall than washing it at the right temperature once.
Illness and hygiene items
Laundry from someone who has been ill – underwear, bedding, towels – should be washed at the highest temperature the fabric care label allows, not 30 degrees. Low temperature washes do not kill bacteria and viruses effectively. The same applies to heavily soiled items, cloth nappies, and anything used in contact with raw food.
If you do wash at 30 degrees regularly, treat stains promptly. A fresh stain that might wash out at 30 degrees can become fixed and permanent once it has dried. Pre-treating or rinsing stains before they dry significantly improves results at low temperatures.
3. The Energy Saving Per Wash Is Smaller Than It Sounds
Industry testing has shown that washing at 30 degrees uses around 40% less electricity per cycle than washing at higher temperatures. This sounds significant. In practice, the absolute saving per wash is modest, because the amount of energy a washing machine uses per cycle is already relatively low.
To understand what a percentage saving means in real terms, it helps to look at the actual energy consumption involved. Independent testing has found that the average energy used per wash at 30 degrees is substantially less than at 40 or 60 degrees – but even the difference between 30 and 40 degrees typically amounts to a fraction of a kilowatt-hour per cycle.
At current UK electricity prices, the saving per wash when dropping from 40 to 30 degrees is likely to be only a few pence. Over a year of regular washing that may add up to a few pounds – real money, but not the dramatic saving that percentage figures imply.
While the saving per household is modest, if adopted widely the aggregate energy and carbon saving across millions of households is genuinely significant. This is why low temperature washing is promoted by energy and environmental bodies – the societal benefit is much larger than any individual saving.
4. Washing Mostly at 30 Degrees Can Damage Your Washing Machine
This is the most important point and the one least often mentioned in low temperature washing promotions. Consistently washing at low temperatures causes a progressive build-up of grease, bacteria, soap residue, and black mould inside the machine – in the drum, door seal, sump hose, and internal components.
At higher temperatures, grease and soap residue are dissolved and flushed away. At 30 degrees, they accumulate. This is already a recognised problem for people who wash mostly at 40 degrees. Washing at 30 degrees makes it significantly worse, particularly if liquid detergent is used (which leaves more residue than powder) or if “colour-friendly” detergents are used that lack the enzymes and surfactants needed to clean the machine itself.
Run an empty drum wash at 60 or 90 degrees at least once a month to flush out grease, bacteria, and slime. Without this, the machine will develop smells and internal deterioration that can shorten its working life significantly. See our full guide: causes of grease, slime and black mould inside washing machines.
This creates a genuine trade-off: the energy saved by washing at 30 degrees is partially or fully offset by the energy used in regular maintenance washes. If maintenance washes are neglected, the machine deteriorates – which may lead to earlier replacement, which has a far larger environmental and financial cost than the energy saved by years of low temperature washing.
5. Low Temperature Washing Only Makes Sense With Full Loads
A small load at 30 degrees uses proportionally more water, detergent, and machine wear per item washed than a full load at 40 degrees. If you only have a few items that can be washed at 30 degrees and cannot wait for a full load, it is almost certainly more economical to add them to a normal 40 degree cottons wash.
The energy saving from low temperature washing is based on full load comparisons. Washing small loads frequently – at any temperature – is wasteful. The environmental and financial case for low temperature washing depends on washing full loads every time.
How to Use Low Temperature Washing Sensibly
None of this means washing at 30 degrees is a bad idea – it means it works best when used thoughtfully rather than as a blanket switch.
- Check your machine has a proper 30 degree cottons programme – not just a delicates cycle.
- Use 30 degrees for lightly soiled, everyday laundry where lower temperature is genuinely sufficient.
- Treat stains before they dry to give low temperature washes a reasonable chance of removing them.
- Wash heavily soiled items, illness laundry, and hygiene items at higher temperatures regardless of the general setting used.
- Run a maintenance wash at 60 or 90 degrees at least monthly – empty drum, with a machine cleaner or a small amount of detergent.
- Always wash full loads to maximise the efficiency of any temperature setting.
Looking for an energy-efficient washing machine?
If saving energy is a priority, the choice of machine matters as much as the temperature setting. Our guide covers what to look for.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does washing at 30 degrees actually save money?
Yes, but less per wash than the headline percentages suggest. The percentage saving is real, but because the absolute energy consumption per cycle is relatively low, the saving per wash amounts to only a few pence. Over a full year it may add up to a few pounds. The saving can be partially or fully offset if you need to run regular maintenance washes at high temperature to keep the machine clean and healthy.
Will my washing machine wash properly at 30 degrees?
It depends on the machine. Most machines have a 30 degree setting, but some are designed for delicates only – a short, gentle cycle with a slow spin that will not clean cottons adequately. Check the instruction manual to confirm whether the 30 degree programme is suitable for everyday laundry, or whether you can manually select 30 degrees on a normal cottons cycle.
Can washing at 30 degrees damage my washing machine?
Not directly – but washing at low temperatures consistently without regular maintenance washes at high temperature leads to a build-up of grease, soap residue, bacteria, and black mould inside the machine. This causes smells, can contaminate laundry, and may shorten the machine’s life. A monthly maintenance wash at 60 or 90 degrees (empty drum) prevents this.
What temperature should I wash at if someone in the house has been ill?
Wash laundry from an ill person at the highest temperature the care label on the garment allows. Low temperature washes do not reliably kill bacteria and viruses. The same applies to towels, bedding, cloth nappies, and anything used for food preparation or in contact with raw food.
How often should I do a maintenance wash if I mostly wash at 30 degrees?
At least once a month. Run the machine empty at 60 degrees (or 90 degrees if the machine allows) with a small amount of detergent or a washing machine cleaner. This dissolves grease and kills bacteria that accumulate at low temperatures. If the machine develops a musty or unpleasant smell, increase the frequency. See our guide: washing machine smells.
Does washing at 30 degrees work with all detergents?
Most modern detergents are formulated to work at lower temperatures and contain enzymes that activate at 30 degrees. However, some older or more basic formulations perform better at higher temperatures. Check the detergent packaging to confirm it is effective at 30 degrees. Powder detergents generally leave less residue in the machine than liquids, which can be a consideration if washing predominantly at low temperatures.
Washing machine detergent from the past
Washing machine detergent choice used to be much simpler. A fascinating old publication from Unilever – operating under the simpler name “Lever” at the time – shows just how much the detergent market has expanded since automatic washing machines became a household staple.
Just Two Types of Detergent for the Washing Machine
The booklet in question was produced by one of the leading detergent manufacturers of the time and was widely distributed with new washing machines. One section refers to a particular wash symbol that will have changed “by 1987”, giving a sense of its era. It is an expensively produced publication with a glossy cover – the kind of quality insert that used to be bundled with major appliance purchases.
What stands out today is how straightforward the choice was. Back then, automatic washing machine detergent came in just two types: an original formulation and a newer biological version. There was also a separate product for hand-washing laundry – a category that has largely disappeared.
How Many Types Are There Now?
The contrast with the modern detergent market is striking. Today, a single major brand may offer over a dozen laundry products, each positioned around a specific benefit – colour protection, whitening, low-temperature performance, sensitive skin, concentrated formats, capsule form, and so on.
Whether this represents genuine improvement or primarily clever marketing is open to debate. The specialised products make a reasonable case – colours do fade, whites do grey, and low-temperature washing is more energy efficient. But the sheer volume of options can also make a simple purchase decision more complicated than it needs to be.
Previously, the choice came down to biological or non-biological, and which brand to favour. That remained the case for decades, and laundry still got clean.
Which? Research on Detergent Performance
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Browse all detergent and softener articles – Biological detergent and skin irritation – Can biological detergents damage laundry?
Is it OK to dry laundry indoors?
Drying laundry indoors releases around 2 litres of moisture per load into the air, contributing to condensation, damp, and mould. If indoor drying is unavoidable, use a warm ventilated room, dry near rather than on a radiator, and keep a window slightly open. A dehumidifier with a laundry setting is the most effective solution.
Drying laundry indoors is not ideal. It can create excess moisture, condensation, and damp – and poses health risks for people prone to asthma, hay fever, and other allergies. If drying clothes indoors is unavoidable, there are steps that can reduce the impact.
There is also a strong link between indoor drying and mould spore growth.
How Much Moisture Does Drying Laundry Indoors Release?
Drying a single load of washing indoors can release around 2 litres of water into the air. This moisture accumulates slowly and often goes unnoticed, but over time it contributes to condensation on windows, damp patches on walls, and conditions that encourage dust mites and mould.
Alternatives to Drying on a Clothes Airer
In the UK climate, indoor drying is often unavoidable, particularly during colder months. A tumble dryer releases significantly less moisture into the room than an indoor airer, though it comes with higher running costs and energy consumption to consider.
If Drying Clothes Inside Is Unavoidable
Where possible, dry clothes near a radiator rather than directly on one – placing items directly on a radiator traps heat and can increase humidity more rapidly in that immediate area. A warm, sunny room is preferable to a cold, enclosed one.
Keep a window slightly open to allow moisture to escape. Even a small amount of ventilation significantly reduces condensation build-up. In cold or wet weather when opening a window is impractical, leaving the room door open allows moisture to disperse through the house rather than accumulating in one space.
Using a Dehumidifier
If drying laundry indoors is a regular necessity, a dehumidifier is worth considering. Many models include a dedicated laundry drying setting that speeds up drying while extracting excess moisture from the air. This reduces drying time, helps prevent condensation and damp, and lowers the risk of mould growth.
Which type of tumble dryer is best? – Black mould in washing machines
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it bad to dry clothes indoors?
It is not ideal. Drying a single load of washing indoors can release around 2 litres of water into the air. Over time this contributes to condensation, damp, mould growth, and elevated dust mite populations – all of which can worsen symptoms for people with asthma, hay fever, or other respiratory conditions. Where possible, drying outdoors or using a tumble dryer is preferable.
What is the safest way to dry clothes indoors?
Dry near rather than directly on a radiator. Use a warm room with some ventilation – a slightly open window is ideal. If opening a window is not practical, leave the room door open to allow moisture to disperse. A dehumidifier with a laundry setting is particularly effective at reducing moisture while speeding up drying.
Does a tumble dryer solve the problem?
A tumble dryer releases significantly less moisture into the living space than an indoor airer, making it a better option from a damp and air quality perspective. Condenser and heat pump dryers in particular retain most of the extracted moisture internally. The trade-off is higher running costs and energy use compared to air drying. See: which type of tumble dryer is best?