Grease marks on clothes after washing
Grease marks on clothes after washing are usually caused by one of three things: under-dosing detergent allowing grease to redistribute onto other items, overloading the drum reducing wash effectiveness, or grease from cooking or food contact that was not pre-treated before washing. For greasy marks already on fabric, pre-treatment with washing up liquid or a liquid detergent before re-washing is the most reliable approach.
Why Grease Marks Appear After Washing
Grease redistribution from under-dosing
One of the less obvious causes of greasy marks on washed laundry is using too little detergent. Detergent works by holding grease and soiling in suspension in the wash water so it can be rinsed away. If the detergent concentration is too low, it cannot hold all the dissolved grease in suspension. As the wash water circulates, this free-floating grease can deposit onto other items in the load – leaving marks on items that were perfectly clean before washing.
This redistribution effect means a garment can come out of the wash with grease spots that were not on it when it went in. The cause is not the machine but the insufficient detergent concentration for the load. Always use the dose stated on the packet for the water hardness in the area and the level of soiling.
Overloading
An overloaded drum compounds the under-dosing problem. Items packed tightly cannot move freely through the water, reducing the contact between detergent solution and fabric. Soiling that should be lifted and held in suspension is instead left on items or transferred between them. Reducing the load size and using the correct detergent dose together produces significantly better results than either alone. See our guide on how to load a washing machine correctly.
Machine gunge depositing onto laundry
Greasy marks can also come from inside the machine rather than from the laundry itself. A washing machine used predominantly at low temperatures with liquid detergent can accumulate grease, limescale, and black mould on the drum, door seal, and inner workings. During a wash cycle this residue can transfer onto laundry as dark greasy smears. If the marks are dark, irregular, and appear on multiple items consistently, inspect the door seal fold and the drum interior. See our guide on washing machine grease, mould and smells.
How to Remove Grease Marks From Clothes
Washing up liquid pre-treatment
Washing up liquid is designed to cut through cooking grease and works well as a pre-treatment on fabric. Apply a small amount directly to the affected area and work it into the fibres with an old toothbrush using gentle circular movements. Allow to sit for a few minutes, then wash as normal at the temperature recommended on the care label. Do not scrub hard enough to abrade the fabric.
Liquid detergent pre-treatment
A concentrated liquid laundry detergent applied directly to the greasy area before washing is effective on most fabric types. Apply undiluted, work in gently, leave for 15 to 30 minutes, then wash at the garment’s recommended temperature. This approach is particularly useful on polyester, where oil and grease tend to bond more firmly to the fibres than on natural fabrics.
Wash at the highest safe temperature
After pre-treating, wash at the highest temperature the garment’s care label allows. Higher temperatures are more effective at breaking down and removing grease. Check the care label before washing – some synthetics and delicates cannot tolerate high temperatures and should be washed at 30 or 40 degrees maximum.
If a grease mark is still visible after washing, do not put the item in the tumble dryer. Heat sets grease stains into fabric and makes them significantly harder or impossible to remove on subsequent washes. Air dry the item and inspect the area before deciding whether to repeat the pre-treatment.
Related Guides
How to Remove Stains From ClothesPre-treatment and washing techniques for common stains including grease, food, and oil.
Washing Machine Grease and MouldCauses of grease and black mould inside washing machines – and how to clean and prevent it.
Washing Not Getting CleanDiagnosing poor wash results from temperature, programme, detergent dose, and load size.
White Streaks or Powder Residue on LaundryA similar problem with different causes – marks appearing on laundry after washing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my washing come out with greasy spots?
The most common cause is using too little detergent. When the detergent concentration is insufficient, it cannot hold all the dissolved grease in suspension in the wash water. As the water circulates, free-floating grease deposits onto other items in the drum. Using the correct dose for the water hardness and level of soiling prevents this. Overloading the drum compounds the problem by reducing water and detergent circulation.
How do I get grease out of clothes that have already been washed?
Pre-treat the affected area with washing up liquid or undiluted liquid laundry detergent, working it into the fibres with an old toothbrush. Allow to sit for 15 to 30 minutes then re-wash at the highest temperature the care label allows. Crucially, do not tumble dry until the mark has gone – heat sets grease into fabric and makes it much harder to remove on subsequent washes.
Why is my washing machine leaving greasy marks on clothes?
Dark, irregular greasy marks consistent across multiple loads are often coming from inside the machine rather than the laundry. A machine used mostly at low temperatures with liquid detergent accumulates grease, limescale, and mould inside the drum and door seal. This residue transfers onto laundry during the wash. Inspect the door seal fold and drum interior for gunge. A hot maintenance wash at 60 to 90 degrees with a machine cleaning product or soda crystals clears the build-up.
Should the washing come out warm or cold?
Laundry should always come out of the washing machine cold – the final rinse cycles use cold water. If clothes are coming out hot or noticeably warm, the most likely cause is that the cold water inlet hose is connected to the hot water tap instead of the cold. This is more common than it sounds and is sometimes not discovered for months or years.
A washing machine rinses with cold water in the final stages of every cycle. Laundry coming out genuinely hot – rather than just slightly warm – is always a sign that something is wrong with the water supply connection.
What Temperature Should Laundry Be Coming Out?
Clothes coming out of the washing machine should feel cold because they have been rinsed multiple times in unheated cold water. The exact temperature varies with the seasons – in winter the cold water supply is colder, so laundry will feel noticeably cold and wetter. In summer, the cold supply is warmer, so laundry may feel closer to room temperature and appear drier, but it should never feel genuinely warm or hot.
Normal: Cold or coolClothes feel cold to the touch after the final spin. In summer they may feel closer to room temperature. This is correct behaviour.
Problem: Warm or hotClothes feel noticeably warm or hot after the cycle. The rinse water has been heated – this should not happen and indicates a connection fault.
Why Clothes Come Out Hot: The Most Common Cause
If laundry is coming out hot, the cold water inlet hose is almost certainly connected to the hot tap rather than the cold. Most modern washing machines are cold fill only – they take in cold water and heat it themselves when needed. If the inlet hose is accidentally plumbed to the hot supply, every fill and rinse uses hot water, including the final cold rinses that are supposed to cool the laundry down.
This fault is more common than it appears. In some cases households use the machine for an extended period without realising the connection is wrong – particularly if the previous plumber or installer made the mistake and no one has checked since. The symptoms are often written off as the machine running hot, rather than being investigated as a plumbing fault.
Rinsing in hot water wastes significant energy, damages certain fabrics and dyes, causes laundry to come out badly creased, and over time can affect the machine’s internal components and seals. It should be corrected as soon as it is identified.
Why It Is Not Always Obvious From Looking at the Hoses
The hose connections may appear correct at first glance – hot tap on the left, cold on the right, matching the colour coding on the hoses. But in some installations the taps themselves are in the wrong position, or the pipes behind the wall are crossed, so the tap labelled cold is actually delivering hot water. The only reliable check is to turn the cold tap on with the machine disconnected and confirm that cold water flows out before reconnecting.
For a full explanation of how to check the connection and all the other possible causes of hot or creased laundry, see our guides on laundry coming out badly creased and misconnected washing machines.
Is the Laundry Just Warm Rather Than Hot?
If the laundry is slightly warm but not hot, this is usually normal and does not indicate a fault. Some warmth after a full wash cycle – particularly at higher temperatures – can persist into the final spin. See our guide on should the washing come out warm or cold? for a clear explanation of what is and is not normal.
Need Help With Installation or a Fault?
If the connection has been corrected but laundry is still coming out hot, there may be an internal fault with the machine’s temperature control system.
Related Guides
Misconnected Washing MachineHow to check whether a washing machine has been connected to the wrong water supply – and how to correct it.
Laundry Coming Out Badly CreasedDetailed guidance on all the causes of creased laundry after washing – including hot water connection faults.
Should the Washing Come Out Warm or Cold?What temperature laundry should be after a cycle – and what is and is not a cause for concern.
How to Connect a Washing Machine ProperlyA complete guide to connecting inlet and drain hoses correctly, including standpipe height requirements.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are my clothes coming out of the washing machine hot?
The most likely cause is that the cold water inlet hose is connected to the hot tap instead of the cold. Modern washing machines are cold fill only and use cold water for rinsing. If the cold supply is actually hot water, every rinse cycle delivers hot water, and laundry comes out warm or hot rather than cold.
The hoses look correctly connected – how can it still be a plumbing fault?
The taps may be labelled correctly and the hoses colour-coded correctly, but the underlying pipework can still be crossed – meaning the cold tap delivers hot water and vice versa. The only reliable check is to disconnect the cold inlet hose, open the cold tap, and confirm that cold water flows from it before reconnecting.
Is warm laundry always a problem?
Slightly warm laundry after a high-temperature wash cycle is normal – some residual warmth can persist into the final spin. Genuinely hot laundry, or laundry that consistently comes out warm on all programmes, indicates the rinse water is being supplied warm or hot rather than cold. See our guide on whether washing should come out warm or cold for more detail.
What damage can rinsing in hot water cause?
Hot rinse water wastes significant energy, damages heat-sensitive fabrics and colour dyes, causes laundry to come out badly creased, and can over time affect internal rubber seals, hoses, and other components not designed to handle continuously hot water. It should be corrected promptly.
Biological detergents damage woollens & silks (cause holes)
Most biological detergents include a warning against use on wool and silk – but it is often in small print. The biological enzymes that make these detergents effective at removing protein-based stains (egg, blood, dairy) work on the same chemical basis as wool and silk fibres. Use a dedicated delicate or wool detergent for these fabrics and for any garment with wool or silk content.
Biological detergents contain enzymes specifically designed to break down proteins. Wool and silk are protein-based fibres. The enzymes cannot distinguish between a food stain and the fabric itself, and will gradually attack and degrade wool and silk garments with repeated washing. The damage appears as small random holes, typically after several washes rather than immediately.
How Biological Detergent Damages Wool and Silk
“Biological detergents contain certain enzymes that are there to remove proteins from a garment. This is how they are effective at cleaning things such as egg from clothing. However, silk and wool are also made up of proteins. Biological detergent cannot differentiate between a bit of egg stain and a bit of silk so the enzymes will eat away at it. This results in very small, randomly placed holes on a garment. They won’t appear after the first wash, but tend to appear after several washes once the enzyme has gradually eaten the fabric away.”
Miele UK – explanation of biological enzyme action on protein fibres
This is the key mechanism: proteolytic enzymes (protease) in biological detergents break down protein chains. Food stains from egg, blood, and dairy are protein-based – which is why biological detergents excel at removing them. Wool and silk are also protein-based fibres (keratin and fibroin respectively). The enzyme does not distinguish between stain protein and fibre protein.
What Damage Looks Like – and Why It’s Often Attributed to the Machine
The damage does not appear immediately. After the first wash, the fabric may look entirely normal. After several washes, small random holes begin to appear – typically at seams first on silk, and across the fabric on wool. The delayed appearance means the connection to detergent is not always made. Many people blame the washing machine.
Before investigating a washing machine fault for small holes in laundry, consider whether biological detergent has been used on wool or silk content garments. This is a very common cause. See our guide on holes appearing in laundry after washing for the full range of causes.
Fabrics Affected
Wool
All wool garments and items with any wool content are vulnerable to biological enzyme damage. This includes merino wool, lambswool, cashmere, and blended fabrics where wool makes up part of the fibre content. The damage causes weakening, distortion, and eventually holes in the fabric.
Silk
Silk is particularly vulnerable. Holes typically appear first at the seams where fabric is under tension, then across the garment surface. Silk is a delicate fibre with no tolerance for proteolytic enzyme exposure. Even a single wash with biological detergent begins the degradation process, though visible damage may take several washes to appear.
Blended fabrics with wool or silk content
Garments labelled as wool or silk blends – even those where the natural fibre is a minority component – carry the same risk. Check care labels for any wool or silk content before washing with biological detergent.
What to Use Instead
A dedicated delicate or wool-specific detergent should be used for wool, silk, and any garment with wool or silk content. These are formulated without proteolytic enzymes. Most are labelled specifically as suitable for wool, silk, or fine fabrics. They are available at most supermarkets.
-
Always check the care label before washing. The care label indicates the fabric content and the recommended washing method. Any garment with wool or silk content should not be washed with biological detergent. -
Keep a separate delicate detergent for wool, silk, and fine fabrics. Most households use one biological detergent for all washing. Keeping a small bottle of delicate-specific detergent for the occasional wool or silk item prevents accidental damage. -
Check the label of the detergent itself. Biological detergents typically carry a warning against use on wool and silk – but it is often in small print. Look for it in the “fabric care” or “what to use it for” sections of the packaging. Some well-known brands market themselves under names that do not immediately suggest “biological” – always check the product labelling.
Related Guides
Related Guides
Which Type of Detergent Is Best?Biological vs non-biological, powder vs liquid, and tablet detergents compared on cleaning performance.
Biological Detergent and Skin IrritationWhat research shows about biological detergents and eczema – the enzymes are not the culprit for skin reactions.
Holes in Clothes After WashingAll causes of holes and tears appearing in laundry – detergent, machine faults, and other causes.
Pilling and Bobbling on ClothesA related type of fabric damage – friction-based fibre breakdown that creates bobbles on fabric surfaces.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does biological detergent damage wool?
Yes. Biological detergents contain proteolytic enzymes (protease) that break down protein-based substances. Wool is a protein-based fibre (keratin). The enzymes attack the wool fibre in the same way they attack protein-based food stains, causing the wool to weaken, distort, and eventually develop holes. The damage is cumulative and typically becomes visible after several washes rather than immediately.
Does biological detergent damage silk?
Yes. Silk is also a protein-based fibre (fibroin). Biological enzymes attack silk in the same way as wool. Silk is particularly vulnerable – holes tend to appear first at the seams where the fabric is under tension, then across the garment surface. Even one wash with biological detergent begins the degradation, though visible holes typically appear after repeated washing.
How can I tell if my detergent is biological?
Check the packaging for the words “biological” or “bio”. Some brands do not prominently advertise this on the front of the packaging – look for it in the ingredients description or the fabric care instructions section. Most biological detergents also carry a warning, in small print, against use on wool and silk. If the warning is present, the detergent is biological. If in doubt, use a non-biological or delicate-specific detergent for any wool or silk items.
Holes in clothes after washing
Holes in clothes after washing have many possible causes — including trapped bra underwires, damaged drum paddles, incorrect spin speeds, overloading, biological detergent on delicate fabrics, moths, deodorant damage, and physical wear from everyday use. The washing machine is often blamed but is frequently not the cause. Working through the likely causes systematically is the best approach.
Finding small holes in clothes after washing is a surprisingly common and frustrating problem. The washing machine is usually blamed first — but in many cases it is not the cause. This guide covers every likely explanation and what to do about each one.
Is the Washing Machine Actually to Blame?
The washing machine is the natural first suspect when holes appear in laundry — but experience and extensive user reports show that the cause is often elsewhere. Holes appear across different brands, drum sizes, and spin speeds, which makes a single machine design fault unlikely in most cases.
Machine IS likely the cause if…
Holes appear on items that have never been worn, appear suddenly after a specific wash, or a scraping noise can be heard during the cycle — suggesting an obstruction inside the drum.
Machine probably NOT the cause if…
Holes appear only on worn items, only in one specific location (e.g. front lower hem of t-shirts), or have been occurring across multiple different machines over time.
Buy a new t-shirt of the type getting holes but never wear it. Wash it regularly with your normal laundry. If it develops holes, the machine or wash process is likely the cause. If it stays intact, the holes are almost certainly caused by something happening during wear — not washing.
What Is Causing the Holes? — All the Possible Causes
This is one of the most common causes of unexplained holes and damage in a washing machine. Bra underwires — particularly from cheaper bras — can escape during the wash and become trapped beneath the drum or around the drum seal.
As the drum rotates, the wire’s sharp ends snag fabric as it is forced through the small holes in the drum during spin. The damage can be intermittent, making the cause difficult to identify. You may or may not hear a faint metallic scraping sound when the drum turns.
Always wash bras in a dedicated bra washing bag to prevent underwires escaping into the machine. Many bras should actually be hand-washed only — check the care label.
The plastic paddles inside the drum — also called lifters or baffles — tumble the laundry during the wash. If a paddle becomes cracked, loose, or broken, it can expose a sharp edge or a gap where fabric can snag and tear.
Inspect the drum paddles carefully. Run a nylon stocking stretched over your hand slowly around the inside of the drum and over each paddle — if it snags anywhere, that is a potential cause of damage. Replacement drum paddles are available from appliance spare parts suppliers.
Coins, clips, and other small metal objects left in pockets are a frequent cause of drum damage. They can dent or scratch the drum surface, or create elongated holes with sharp edges that snag fabric during the wash and spin.
Carefully examine the entire drum surface for dents, scratches, or sharp edges. Use the nylon stocking test — run it slowly around every part of the drum interior. Any snag point is a potential source of fabric damage. Always check and empty all pockets before loading the machine.
Spinning delicate or lightweight fabrics at too high a speed can cause or worsen holes, particularly in thin or loosely woven materials. Many people use the default cotton programme for all laundry without adjusting the spin speed.
As a general guide, maximum recommended spin speeds vary significantly by fabric type:
| Fabric type | Max recommended spin speed |
|---|---|
| Cottons | Up to 1400 rpm |
| Minimum iron / synthetics | Up to 1200 rpm |
| Denim | Up to 900 rpm |
| Woollens | Up to 1200 rpm |
| Delicates | Up to 600 rpm |
| Shirts | Up to 600 rpm |
| Silks | Up to 400 rpm |
Always check your machine’s instruction book and the garment’s care label — these are the definitive guides for your specific appliance and fabric.
Different fabric types have different maximum load capacities — not just by weight but by the nature of the fabric. Overloading forces garments into tight contact with each other and the drum, increasing friction and the risk of snagging.
Many people are unaware that a full drum of heavy denim or shirts is effectively overloading the machine even if it is within the stated kg capacity. Read our guide on how to load a washing machine correctly, and see our article on laundry coming out badly creased — overloading is a common cause of both problems.
Open zips, metal buttons, and buckles can catch on neighbouring garments during tumbling, creating pulls and holes — particularly in thinner fabrics. As a precaution, always zip up zips fully before washing, and turn garments with metal fastenings inside out. Placing delicate items in a mesh laundry bag adds an extra layer of protection.
Biological detergents contain enzymes that break down protein-based stains. These same enzymes can damage protein-based fabrics — particularly wool and silk — causing holes and weakening the fabric structure over time.
If holes are appearing specifically in woollen or silk garments, switching to a non-biological detergent is strongly advisable. Read our full guide on how biological detergents can damage woollens and silks.
Antiperspirant deodorants — particularly those containing aluminium-based compounds — can gradually weaken fabric fibres over time, especially in the underarm area. Spraying deodorant while wearing a garment can also affect the fabric at the front and sides. This is easily overlooked as a cause because the damage accumulates slowly and is not immediately visible.
If holes are consistently appearing in the same location on garments, consider whether chemical contact during wear could be responsible before attributing the fault to the washing machine.
Moth larvae cause small, irregular holes that can look very similar to washing machine damage — particularly in natural fibres such as wool, cashmere, and cotton. The holes are typically scattered randomly across the garment rather than concentrated in one area.
If garments have been stored for a period before the holes were noticed, or if the holes appear on multiple stored items, moths or other insects should be considered as a possible cause.
This is one of the most frequently overlooked causes — particularly for small holes that appear at the front lower hem of t-shirts. Repeated friction against jeans waistbands, belts, and kitchen worktops (granite and stone worktops are particularly abrasive) gradually weakens fabric in specific areas.
If holes consistently appear in the same location on garments — particularly the lower front — this is a strong indicator that the cause is wear during use rather than damage during washing.
How to Check Your Drum for Obstructions
If you suspect an obstruction inside the machine — such as a trapped bra wire or coin — carry out this inspection before running another wash.
-
Unplug the machine. Always disconnect from the mains before inspecting the drum.
-
Use the nylon stocking test. Stretch a nylon stocking over your hand and run it slowly around the entire interior of the drum — including the drum holes, the door seal, and each paddle. Any snag point indicates a sharp edge or obstruction.
-
Inspect the paddles carefully. Check each drum paddle for cracks, looseness, or exposed sharp edges. A damaged paddle should be replaced — see our spare parts guide.
-
Check the drum surface. Look for dents, scratches, or elongated drum holes with sharp edges caused by coins or foreign objects.
-
Listen during the next wash. A faint metallic scraping or tapping during the cycle — particularly on spin — is a strong indicator of a trapped object such as a bra wire.
-
If an obstruction is suspected but cannot be reached, a qualified engineer can access the drum properly without risking further damage. Book a repair engineer if needed.
How to Prevent Holes in Clothes During Washing
- Always check and empty pockets before loading — coins and keys are a common cause of drum damage
- Wash bras in a dedicated bra bag to prevent underwires escaping
- Zip up all zips fully and turn garments with metal fastenings inside out before washing
- Use mesh laundry bags for delicate items, thin fabrics, and anything with embellishments
- Select the correct programme and spin speed for each fabric type — check care labels
- Do not overload the drum — leave adequate space for garments to move freely
- Use non-biological detergent for wool, silk, and other delicate natural fibres
- Regularly inspect drum paddles and the drum interior for damage or sharp edges
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do small holes keep appearing in my t-shirts?
The most common cause of small holes specifically in the lower front area of t-shirts is physical friction during everyday wear — against jeans waistbands, belts, or abrasive kitchen worktops such as granite. Try the new t-shirt test: wash an unworn shirt repeatedly and see if it develops holes. If it does not, the cause is almost certainly wear during use rather than the washing machine.
Could a trapped bra wire be causing holes in my laundry?
Yes — this is one of the most frequent causes of unexplained fabric damage. A bra wire that has escaped into the machine can lie beneath the drum and snag garments during spin. Use the nylon stocking test to check the drum interior for sharp points or snag spots. You may also notice a faint metallic scraping noise during the cycle. Always wash bras in a protective bra bag.
Can biological detergent cause holes in clothes?
Yes — but only in specific fabrics. The enzymes in biological detergents break down protein-based stains, but they can also damage protein-based fibres such as wool and silk. If holes are appearing in woollen or silk garments, switch to a non-biological detergent. Read our full guide on biological detergents and fabric damage.
How do I know if my drum paddle is causing the damage?
Stretch a nylon stocking over your hand and run it slowly around the inside of the drum, paying close attention to each paddle. If the stocking snags on a paddle, that paddle has a sharp edge or crack that could be damaging your laundry. Replacement paddles are available — see our spare parts page to find the correct part for your machine.
Can moths cause the same kind of holes as a washing machine?
Yes — moth larvae create small, irregular holes that can look almost identical to mechanical damage from a washing machine, particularly in wool, cashmere, and cotton. If holes appear on stored garments, are scattered randomly across the fabric, or are concentrated on multiple stored items, moths are a likely cause rather than the washing machine.
My washing machine manufacturer says it is my fault — what should I do?
This is a common response from manufacturers, who often suggest incorrect spin speeds or overloading as the cause. Before accepting this explanation, work through the checks in this article — particularly the nylon stocking drum inspection and the unworn t-shirt test. If you can demonstrate that you are using the machine correctly and damage is still occurring, you have stronger grounds to pursue a complaint. Read our guide to consumer rights and faulty appliances for further advice.
See photos of holes in clothes from our readers
Our holes in clothes photo gallery shows examples of all types of damage — from bra wire snags to drum paddle tears to wear damage — which may help you identify the cause in your own laundry.
Stretch a nylon stocking over your hand and run it slowly around the drum interior. Any snag point is a potential cause of fabric damage.
Laundry comes out of washing machine creased
Badly creased laundry after washing is almost always caused by one of four things: overloading the drum, spinning at too high a speed for the fabric type, leaving laundry sitting in the drum after the cycle ends, or – less commonly – rinsing in hot water because the fill hoses are connected the wrong way round. Work through each cause systematically.
Cause 1: Overloading the Drum
Drum capacity ratings apply to cotton loads only. For other fabric types, the maximum recommended load is significantly lower. An overloaded drum cannot allow laundry to move freely during the wash, resulting in compressed fabric that emerges heavily creased.
| Fabric type | Maximum load (6kg drum) |
|---|---|
| Cottons | 6 kg |
| Minimum iron / easy care | 3 kg |
| Delicates | 2 kg |
| Woollens | 2 kg |
| Silks | 1 kg |
These figures are illustrative – check the instruction manual for the specific machine being used, as maximum loads vary between models. Silks and delicates are lightweight fabrics, so the weight limit still allows a reasonable number of items – but it is lower than many users expect. See our guide on how to load a washing machine correctly.
Cause 2: Spinning at Too High a Speed
Many wash programmes automatically select an appropriate spin speed. If the spin speed is set manually, or if laundry is spun on the wrong programme, spinning fabric types above their recommended maximum speed causes significant creasing.
| Fabric type | Typical maximum spin speed |
|---|---|
| Cottons | 1400 rpm |
| Minimum iron / easy care | 1200 rpm |
| Woollens | 1200 rpm |
| Denim | 900 rpm |
| Delicates / shirts | 600 rpm |
| Silks | 400 rpm |
Confirm the correct spin speed for the fabric type in the machine’s instruction manual – these figures are typical but vary between models. See our guide on washing machine spin speeds for more detail.
Cause 3: Leaving Laundry in the Drum
Laundry left sitting in the drum after a cycle ends – particularly after a high spin – sets into the creased position it ends up in after spinning. The longer it sits, the harder the creases become to remove.
Remove laundry from the drum as soon as the cycle ends, especially for items prone to creasing. Many washing machines include an anti-crease function that continues to turn the drum gently after the spin cycle until the door is opened – this helps but does not fully substitute for prompt removal. Delicates programmes on many machines also include an anti-crease soak phase that holds items in water rather than spinning, until the user is ready to complete the cycle.
Cause 4: Washing at Too High a Temperature
Washing at a temperature higher than the care label recommends – particularly for synthetic, delicate, and minimum-iron fabrics – can cause significant creasing as the fibres are stressed beyond their tolerance. Always check the care label before selecting a wash temperature. If the fabric can only tolerate 30 or 40 degrees, washing at 60 degrees will crease it regardless of programme or spin speed.
Cause 5: Rinsing in Hot Water
A less common but severe cause of creasing is the fill hoses being connected the wrong way round, resulting in the machine rinsing in hot rather than cold water. Hot water rinsing causes significant creasing across all fabric types, and will also be expensive in terms of hot water wastage.
-
Check during a rinse cycle. Open the soap drawer slightly while water is flowing in during rinsing. Rinse water should be cold – the same temperature as the cold tap. If it is warm or hot, the supply is connected incorrectly. -
Allow for pipework delay. Hot water sitting in cooled pipework will initially feel cold. Allow 20 to 30 seconds for the water temperature to stabilise before checking. -
Check the hose connections at both ends. Misconnection can occur at the machine, at the tap, or in the plumbing behind the tap. Red taps or levers indicate hot; blue indicate cold – but these colour markings can be incorrectly fitted. Trace the hose and confirm which pipe it is actually connected to.
See our guide on laundry coming out of the machine warm or hot for full diagnosis of this issue.
Related Guides
Related Guides
How to Load a Washing MachineCorrect loading for best results – including maximum loads by fabric type.
Washing Machine Spin SpeedsWhat different RPM ratings mean and the correct spin speed for each fabric type.
Laundry Coming Out HotDiagnosing hot rinsing – a rare but severe cause of creasing across all fabric types.
Washing Machine User ManualsDownload or find the instruction manual for specific machine models – essential for confirming correct programme settings.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do my clothes come out of the washing machine badly creased?
The most common causes are overloading the drum (which prevents clothes moving freely), spinning at too high a speed for the fabric type, or leaving laundry sitting in the drum after the cycle ends. Less commonly, washing at too high a temperature or rinsing in hot water (caused by incorrectly connected hoses) can cause severe creasing across all fabric types.
Does spin speed affect creasing?
Yes significantly. Different fabric types have maximum recommended spin speeds. Spinning delicates, silks, or shirts above their recommended maximum causes the fabric to crease heavily as fibres are compressed under centrifugal force at a speed they cannot tolerate. Always check the instruction manual or care label for the correct spin speed for the fabric being washed.
Can I reduce creasing without ironing?
Taking laundry out of the drum immediately after the cycle ends significantly reduces the severity of post-wash creasing. Using the correct programme and spin speed for the fabric type prevents most programme-caused creasing. For stubborn creasing, hanging items to dry under their own weight (rather than tumble drying) can help certain fabric types relax after washing.