Faults on Pressure System
The pressure system detects water levels in the drum using a sealed tube, a pressure chamber bottle, and a pressure switch. A blocked pressure chamber bottle is the most common fault – it traps air pressure and stops the machine spinning or causes overfilling. Always clear a blockage before suspecting the switch itself.
The pressure system on a washing machine tells the machine when water has reached the correct level and when the drum is empty. When something goes wrong with it, the machine can overfill, refuse to spin, or abort its programme entirely.
All the symptoms described in this article have other possible causes. Never assume the pressure system is at fault without ruling out other causes first. A full understanding of how the system works is essential before attempting diagnosis. See: how a washing machine controls water levels.
What Is the Pressure System?
The pressure system consists of several connected components: a pressure chamber bottle at the base of the outer drum, a length of narrow tubing, and a pressure switch. Its function is straightforward – to signal to the washing machine when water inside the drum has reached the set level, and when the drum is empty after draining. Without these signals, the machine cannot control water intake or spin correctly.
The Pressure Switch
Pressure switches are normally very reliable and are usually the last component to suspect. Before considering a faulty switch, all other causes – especially a blocked pressure chamber bottle – should be ruled out first.
A switch stuck in the on position will make the machine think water is present when there is none, causing it to skip or refuse the fast spin. A switch stuck in the off position will tell the machine the drum is empty when it is not, causing it to overfill. Neither of these symptoms is exclusively caused by a faulty switch – a blockage in the pressure system is a far more likely explanation for the switch appearing to be stuck.
Modern Pressure Switches
Older pressure switches used mechanical contacts operated by air pressure and remained largely unchanged in design for over 40 years. Modern pressure switches use small coils with magnets inside, producing different resistance readings depending on the air pressure applied. These newer designs have fewer moving parts and should in theory be equally reliable, though diagnosing them is more difficult without knowing the expected resistance values for a specific model.
The Pressure Tubing
The narrow tube running between the pressure chamber bottle and the pressure switch must be completely airtight. Damage to the tube, or air leaks at either connection point, will cause a loss of air pressure. Without a sealed system, sufficient pressure cannot build up to activate or hold the pressure switch, which can result in the machine overfilling.
Inspect the full length of the tube for cracks, splits, or loose connections at both ends.
The Pressure Chamber Bottle
The pressure chamber is a small plastic bottle at the base of the outer drum where the pressure tube connects. Blockages here are the most common cause of pressure system faults.
If the chamber becomes blocked with detergent residue or debris, water inside the chamber cannot drain away when the machine empties. This traps air pressure in the tube, holding the pressure switch in the on position and making the machine think the drum is still full. The result is that the machine will not proceed to a fast spin.
A blockage can also prevent water from entering the chamber at all, which can cause the machine to take in too much water or overfill. This type of blockage needs to be more solid to produce this symptom, as the volume of water in the tub can sometimes force its way past partial blockages into the bottle – but once inside, even a small amount of water cannot escape past the blockage when draining.
Pneumatic Door Locks and the Pressure Tube
On some older washing machines (more common on 1990s models), a branch of the pressure tubing connects to a pneumatic door interlock. Air pressure from the same system is used to hold the door locked when water is present. A blockage in the pressure chamber can therefore also trap air in the branch leading to the door lock, preventing the door from opening even after the water has been pumped away. See: different types of door locks.
Fixing a Blocked Pressure System
For a step-by-step guide to diagnosing and clearing a blocked pressure system, see: how to clear a blocked pressure system.
Other Symptoms Linked to the Pressure System
The following symptoms can also be caused by pressure system faults – though as with all symptoms in this guide, other unrelated faults can produce the same results:
- Not taking in water – the machine may think water is already present. See: washing machine not taking in water.
- Refusing to spin – the machine may think the drum is still full. See: washing machine not spinning.
- Programme abort and error code – a pressure system fault can trigger the machine to stop and display an error. See: appliance error codes.
Pressure system faults can be difficult to diagnose and easy to misdiagnose.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the pressure system do on a washing machine?
It detects when water inside the drum has reached the correct level and when the drum is empty after draining. It uses a sealed air tube connected to a pressure chamber bottle and a pressure switch to send these signals to the machine’s control system. Without accurate signals, the machine cannot control water intake or spin correctly.
What causes a washing machine to overfill?
A common cause is a fault in the pressure system – either a blocked pressure chamber bottle preventing the pressure switch from activating, damage to the air tube causing a loss of pressure, or in rarer cases a faulty pressure switch. However, overfilling can also be caused by a faulty water inlet valve, so pressure system faults should not be assumed without proper diagnosis. See: washing machine overfilling.
Why won’t my washing machine do a fast spin?
If the pressure system is at fault, the machine may believe the drum still contains water and refuse to spin to avoid flooding. A blocked pressure chamber bottle is the most common cause – it traps air pressure and holds the pressure switch in the on position. However, a failed drain pump, blocked filter, or other unrelated fault can produce the same symptom. See: washing machine not spinning.
Is a faulty pressure switch likely?
Pressure switches are very reliable components and are usually the last thing to suspect. If the pressure switch appears to be stuck – whether on or off – the most likely explanation is a blockage in the pressure chamber bottle holding the system in a fixed state, not a failed switch. Clear any blockage and retest before considering switch replacement.
47 Comments
Grouped into 26 comment threads.
3 replies Hi, I have a hoover OPH 714D washing machine, when i switch the machine on everything seems normal but when i choose a program the drain pump starts working and the door locks but no water is in the machine. I tried opening the door of the machine emptied a bucket of clean water maybe something else happenes but the water was emptied and the drain pump continued on working. I am to check the pressure switch by blowing and maybe trying to hear some clicking noises, i will then go to the pressure chamber which maybe there is any blockage. Any pointers please maybe you had a similar problem.
3 replies This sounds like a problem I'm having with my hoover washing machine, It fills for about five seconds then stops. goes through the program with hardly any water in the drum and then stops with an E03 drain problem message. The machine drains well though. I have replaced the water valves to no avail, and there is a good rush of water going in for the 5 seconds. The pressure switch appears to be working the pipe to it is clear, and there is no improvement when the pressure tube is removed. Any ideas? Patrick I' seem to remember having this problem before now, and pressing a combination of buttons to reset the program?
This sounds like a problem I’m having with my hoover washing machine, It fills for about five seconds then stops. goes through the program with hardly any water in the drum and then stops with an E03 drain problem message. The machine drains well though. I have replaced the water valves to no avail, and there is a good rush of water going in for the 5 seconds. The pressure switch appears to be working the pipe to it is clear, and there is no improvement when the pressure tube is removed. Any ideas?
Patrick
I’ seem to remember having this problem before now, and pressing a combination of buttons to reset the program?
3 replies When I start a cycle, my washer automatically starts in the drain mode and does not start filling with water. Would a problem with the pressure switch cause this issue? Thanks
When I start a cycle, my washer automatically starts in the drain mode and does not start filling with water. Would a problem with the pressure switch cause this issue?
Thanks
Likely replying to Keith Grine
Hello Keith, all modern washing machines tend to energise the pump for a short while before starting a wash cycle. It’s just to make sure the machine is empty. If it fails to fill with water after 20 or 30 seconds there could be a fault with the water supply to the machine or the water valve in the machine (check this article – Washer won’t fill with water
In relation to the pressure system, a fault on the pressure system (as described in this article above) could convince the washing machine it already has water inside and that would stop it taking any more water in. However, I would also expect that if this is the case the drum would start turning as if washing the laundry and it would also refuse to spin.
A final possibility is if by any chance there was a fault or partial blockage in the pump or plumbing resulting in the washer not being able to empty the water out properly although I would expect it to be fairly obvious that there is still some water inside the machine.
Likely replying to Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)
Hi Andy, I have a Samsung Top loader (FUZZY LOGIC). As soon as I press the power on button, The cold water solenoid energizes and water is let in. The water continues to run in until the power switch is switched off. I have replaced the solenoid with a new one but still does the same thing. Any Ideas?? I i disconnect the cold water, select a cycle and select only the hot water. the machine works fine?? Your assistance will be greatly appreciated.
1 reply Thank you very much for this detailed information. My LG washing machine developed a fault code which suggested a fault on the drain cycle. I changed the pump but still had the same problem a few days later. I wish that I’d seen your site earlier as clearing the pressure chamber resolved the problem completely. It was surprising how much gunk had built up over the past 2 years. Thank you for finding the time to offer such great support. Regards Tom
Thank you very much for this detailed information.
My LG washing machine developed a fault code which suggested a fault on the drain cycle. I changed the pump but still had the same problem a few days later.
I wish that I’d seen your site earlier as clearing the pressure chamber resolved the problem completely. It was surprising how much gunk had built up over the past 2 years.
Thank you for finding the time to offer such great support.
Regards
Tom
1 reply Hi, I have a Bosch front loader with a tricky problem and hope you may be able to offer a solution. I have been an appliance repairman for some 15 years and have never seen this before. The machine overfills on every cycle and when pressure switch closes on its first notch, it begins the wash cycle. However it will continue to fill until the drain pump activates on the second notch, and when it reaches its normal water level the inlet valves close. This happens on every fill stage. On occasion and intermittently, the water valves will re-activate on the wash cycle, sometimes getting a few pulses of power to the inlet valves. I suspected a fault in the control PCB, so I switched it out for another from another working machine and got the same problem. The pressure switch and inlet valves are working normally and I have checked for any other pressure systems abnormalities-none found. The machine is not syphoning and has no leaks. The bizarre thing is, that when it activates pressure switch on 1st. notch; if I turn the tap off and immediately turn back on again, the water stops. Can you shed any light on this?
Hi, I have a Bosch front loader with a tricky problem and hope you may be able to offer a solution. I have been an appliance repairman for some 15 years and have never seen this before.
The machine overfills on every cycle and when pressure switch closes on its first notch, it begins the wash cycle. However it will continue to fill until the drain pump activates on the second notch, and when it reaches its normal water level the inlet valves close. This happens on every fill stage.
On occasion and intermittently, the water valves will re-activate on the wash cycle, sometimes getting a few pulses of power to the inlet valves.
I suspected a fault in the control PCB, so I switched it out for another from another working machine and got the same problem.
The pressure switch and inlet valves are working normally and I have checked for any other pressure systems abnormalities-none found.
The machine is not syphoning and has no leaks.
The bizarre thing is, that when it activates pressure switch on 1st. notch; if I turn the tap off and immediately turn back on again, the water stops.
Can you shed any light on this?
Likely replying to Wayne
Hello Wayne. On first reading it sounds like the water valve is possibly sticking if it stops filling once you have turned off the water supply and back on? It is indeed a very strange one. Have you tried replacing the water valve?
The only other rare fault I’ve had with pressure systems is if there is a small air leak where the pressure chamber hose fits onto the pressure chamber or actually somewhere on the hose itself or of course where the hose fits onto the pressure switch. In such a case the air pressure that holds the pressure switch position is constantly escaping so the washing machine overfills. Please let us know if you manage to fix this.
1 reply Hello! I’d just like to thank you for this article and will leave my experience here to help any others with this issue. I have a samsung washing machine that started to give a 5e error. I checked all the obvious stuff, like the filter and blockages in the drainage plumbing. However when initiating a cycle the machine would simply run the drain pump until it timed out and gave 5e again. I removed the detergent drawer and stuck the garden hose in there to manually fill the machine and check if the drainage system was working, like and behold it was pumping out all the water I put in perfectly. After reading your article I thought I’d try the presssure switch, I simply removed the tube from the pressure switch and tried again, boom, working fine. Clearly there was a blockage at the other end of the tube. I blew down it as hard as I could and felt something give, probably a nice mix of soap scum, scale and other debris that had formed a a bung in the tube. Also (very carefully) forced a couple of gob fulls of water down it to make sure it was clear. I blew down again regularly over the next hour to dry it out. Put the lot back together and all is working as it should. So the Samsung 5e error can indeed be caused by the pressure switch system. Certainly worth checking before a call out. Thanks again!
Hello!
I’d just like to thank you for this article and will leave my experience here to help any others with this issue. I have a samsung washing machine that started to give a 5e error. I checked all the obvious stuff, like the filter and blockages in the drainage plumbing. However when initiating a cycle the machine would simply run the drain pump until it timed out and gave 5e again. I removed the detergent drawer and stuck the garden hose in there to manually fill the machine and check if the drainage system was working, like and behold it was pumping out all the water I put in perfectly. After reading your article I thought I’d try the presssure switch, I simply removed the tube from the pressure switch and tried again, boom, working fine. Clearly there was a blockage at the other end of the tube. I blew down it as hard as I could and felt something give, probably a nice mix of soap scum, scale and other debris that had formed a a bung in the tube. Also (very carefully) forced a couple of gob fulls of water down it to make sure it was clear. I blew down again regularly over the next hour to dry it out. Put the lot back together and all is working as it should. So the Samsung 5e error can indeed be caused by the pressure switch system. Certainly worth checking before a call out.
Thanks again!
1 reply Our washing machine shows an error code mid cycle which prevents it draining. Through trial and error we've found that it will work if the pipe isn't connected and it drains into the sink instead. Do you think this is a problem with the pressure system or something else. We've just moved into a new house and this is only the second time we've used the machine which was in the propert already.
Our washing machine shows an error code mid cycle which prevents it draining. Through trial and error we’ve found that it will work if the pipe isn’t connected and it drains into the sink instead. Do you think this is a problem with the pressure system or something else. We’ve just moved into a new house and this is only the second time we’ve used the machine which was in the propert already.
Likely replying to Victoria Savill
Hello Victoria. Which pipe, the pressure switch tube? What is the error code? Make sure it isn’t related to the bung being left inside the u-bend as described here – Washing machine won’t drain after being moved
1 reply Hi I have moved house and transported the washing machine which is an LG direct drive 8K, the washer has been very reliable, however after installing at my new home and switching it on for its first wash, it started overfilling, the washer normaly uses very little water so to see the drum filling up and not switching off was very strange, it also seems to have stopped detecting load size. Any ideas? Thany you
Hi
I have moved house and transported the washing machine which is an LG direct drive 8K, the washer has been very reliable, however after installing at my new home and switching it on for its first wash, it started overfilling, the washer normaly uses very little water so to see the drum filling up and not switching off was very strange, it also seems to have stopped detecting load size. Any ideas?
Thany you
Likely replying to Richard
Hello Richard. As this fault appears to have been introduced by moving it (which is unusual) you’d have to check that the thin pressure tubing hose is connected OK to the pressure switch and the pressure chamber although I can’t imagine how they could have come off even if you’d thrown it down the stairs. Alternatively maybe there’s a blockage in the pressure chamber bottle and not using it for some days has allowed it to solidify. If you can’t see anything call an engineer.
1 reply Hi, Thanks for your articles they are very informative, I have a beko washing machine which doesn't drain fully on a normal programme, it only drains fully when I do an additional spin and drain, would this be a pressure switch problem?
Hi, Thanks for your articles they are very informative, I have a beko washing machine which doesn’t drain fully on a normal programme, it only drains fully when I do an additional spin and drain, would this be a pressure switch problem?
Likely replying to steve foster
Thanks Steve. It’s unlikely because the pressure switch just waits for a signal as to whether the water is at the correct level when filling and when the water has pumped away during spin. If anything the pressure system faults (commonly a blockage) happen when the water does pump out but the signal doesn’t get through.
If the water doesn’t drain out fully and needs an additional spin and drain it’s most likely to be caused by a partial blockage in the pump, the pump filter or possibly at the u-bend under the sink (if plumbed into the sink.) Try troubleshooting here –
How do I clean my pump filter (where is the pump filter?)
Washing Machine Won’t Drain Water
1 reply I stumbled onto your site while searching for information on how the modern washing machine knows how much water to put in the tub. After reading your article I think I understand how the washing machine turns on and off the water going into the tub. I also understand a pressure switch is used to determine how much water is in the tub, but not how much should be in the tub. How does the washing machine know when there is a small load of laundry and it only needs a small amount of water. Or that there is a large load in the washer requiring more water. I hope I made my question clear. Michael-
I stumbled onto your site while searching for information on how the modern washing machine knows how much water to put in the tub.
After reading your article I think I understand how the washing machine turns on and off the water going into the tub. I also understand a pressure switch is used to determine how much water is in the tub, but not how much should be in the tub. How does the washing machine know when there is a small load of laundry and it only needs a small amount of water. Or that there is a large load in the washer requiring more water.
I hope I made my question clear.
Michael-
Likely replying to Michael Hulsey
Hello Michael. They should be able to tell the weight of the load of laundry inside the drum by the resistance needed to turn the drum. They can monitor the strain load on the motor, how much power it needs, how smoothly it is running etc. Also some loads will naturally take more water if they are absorbent. Loads that don’t contain absorbent laundry will fill up quicker.
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1 reply Thanks very much for these excellent articles. I'd be very grateful for any advice on the following problem. In short it seems our machine often keeps on filling whenever it has power on regardless of position in cycle or even if cycle has finished. I have taken off pressure switch and tube and cleaned. PS Clicks on + off when blown into as described starting to think thats not problem. (Indesit WI121, pressure switch is HD505 T85, inlet valves replaced last summer, not very heavy use) For example: 1 - I turn the machine on, all OK (pressure switch ticks then 2s late ticks again then 8s ticks, 2s, tick, 8s, tick, 2s, tick etc.) 2 - I start cycle - seems to work normally except water keeps running in. (Pump kicks in occassionally to stop water level around 2/3 way up the window) 3 - If I then cancel cycle by moving control to off position it stops as normal but water still running in. 4 - I move control to drain position, it drains and moves on to finished position. but water is still running in. 5 - I switch it off (on machine or at socket). The water stops instantly. 6 - I switch machine back on, control in stopped position. Water starts flowing again (sometimes immediately, sometimes after a couple of seconds of it 'thinking') 7 - If I disconnect water supply, I can hear inlet solenoid/valve buzzing as it holds open. This time I can't hear ticking from pressure valve that I did in step 1. 8 - A couple of times after being left off for a some time I switch on and the water doesn't run. Then I'm back to step 1 Any ideas? I'm wondering if there's a sticky relay controlling the inlet solenoid?? Or is it time to give up? Thank you very much, Simon
Thanks very much for these excellent articles. I’d be very grateful for any advice on the following problem. In short it seems our machine often keeps on filling whenever it has power on regardless of position in cycle or even if cycle has finished. I have taken off pressure switch and tube and cleaned. PS Clicks on + off when blown into as described starting to think thats not problem. (Indesit WI121, pressure switch is HD505 T85, inlet valves replaced last summer, not very heavy use)
For example:
1 – I turn the machine on, all OK (pressure switch ticks then 2s late ticks again then 8s ticks, 2s, tick, 8s, tick, 2s, tick etc.)
2 – I start cycle – seems to work normally except water keeps running in. (Pump kicks in occassionally to stop water level around 2/3 way up the window)
3 – If I then cancel cycle by moving control to off position it stops as normal but water still running in.
4 – I move control to drain position, it drains and moves on to finished position. but water is still running in.
5 – I switch it off (on machine or at socket). The water stops instantly.
6 – I switch machine back on, control in stopped position. Water starts flowing again (sometimes immediately, sometimes after a couple of seconds of it ‘thinking’)
7 – If I disconnect water supply, I can hear inlet solenoid/valve buzzing as it holds open. This time I can’t hear ticking from pressure valve that I did in step 1.
8 – A couple of times after being left off for a some time I switch on and the water doesn’t run. Then I’m back to step 1
Any ideas? I’m wondering if there’s a sticky relay controlling the inlet solenoid?? Or is it time to give up?
Thank you very much, Simon
Likely replying to Simon Dale
Hello Simon. If it’s filling even on spin I can’t see it being related to the pressure switch. If the valve is being energised all the time there’s possibly a fault on the pcb. Low insulation faults can also cause weird behaviour. I think it would need an engineer to see it and test the insulation too.
1 reply Hi, I have a Hotpoint WMFUG942 machine which displays a F05 error through a cycle. The machine starts up/spins OK and fills (with a small amount of water, not the usual amount) it then drains away but whilst in this process the error appears. I have checked the filter, the water supply going into the machine, the drainage hose (which seems to pump out fine when left in a bucket) and the sump hose which appear to be free from blockages. The pressure switch has a faint click when I blow in it and I can freely blow through the tube leading down through the machine, I have read about this and this normally goes to a chamber, unfortunately this appears to go into the drum assembly on this machine which i cannot seem to get too easily. To test I took the tube out of the pressure switch and set the machine to rinse in which the same fault is present, does this still point towards the pressure switch as I've also read this could be a PCB or pump issue. Many thanks for your help in advance Best regards Mark
Hi,
I have a Hotpoint WMFUG942 machine which displays a F05 error through a cycle.
The machine starts up/spins OK and fills (with a small amount of water, not the usual amount) it then drains away but whilst in this process the error appears.
I have checked the filter, the water supply going into the machine, the drainage hose (which seems to pump out fine when left in a bucket) and the sump hose which appear to be free from blockages.
The pressure switch has a faint click when I blow in it and I can freely blow through the tube leading down through the machine, I have read about this and this normally goes to a chamber, unfortunately this appears to go into the drum assembly on this machine which i cannot seem to get too easily.
To test I took the tube out of the pressure switch and set the machine to rinse in which the same fault is present, does this still point towards the pressure switch as I’ve also read this could be a PCB or pump issue.
Many thanks for your help in advance
Best regards
Mark
Likely replying to Mark Parker
Hello Mark. F05 error is often common between Hotpoint and Indesit washing machines. They are made by the same company and share some parts. Check this article for specific information on Error Code F05
1 reply hi there, I have an indesit which on any cycle will start filling the drum for approx 5 seconds (if I open the fabric softener door I can see that water is traveling past and at a normal flow) then stops and hangs. I've taken the filter system completely apart, should I approach the pressure system next you reckon? Thank you very much
hi there,
I have an indesit which on any cycle will start filling the drum for approx 5 seconds (if I open the fabric softener door I can see that water is traveling past and at a normal flow) then stops and hangs.
I’ve taken the filter system completely apart, should I approach the pressure system next you reckon?
Thank you very much
Likely replying to Billy
Hello Billy. If it is a hot and cold fill washing machine there could be a problem with the hot water supply or the hot water valve in the machine. A washing machine will normally fill up with cold water for several seconds, pause, and then start taking hot water. If it is cold fill only with just one water valve then it is going to be difficult fault to deal with because clearly everything is working all right to allow it to start taking water in at all.
A pressure system fault could cause issues with water levels but if the pressure system erroneously thinks the water has gone into the machine okay and stops the fill process it should then proceed to wash. So if the washing machine is hanging this implies that it is still waiting for the pressure system to be activated. Therefore suspect is more likely to be a problem in getting the water into the machine.
If there are more than one fill valve check this article for troubleshooting a water valve not taking in water
1 reply It does sound like the pressure switch isn't working properly. The pressure system tells the machine when it has enough water in and when the water has drained away. If it's not doing either you have to suspect a faulty pressure switch or something's gone wrong with processing or receiving its signals. This article explains how the washing machine controls water levels.
It does sound like the pressure switch isn’t working properly. The pressure system tells the machine when it has enough water in and when the water has drained away. If it’s not doing either you have to suspect a faulty pressure switch or something’s gone wrong with processing or receiving its signals. This article explains how the washing machine controls water levels.
1 reply When I blow in my washer pressure switch it clicks twice bur the pressure leaks out..in fact I can hear a hissing sound when I continue to blow after the clicks....I presume the diaphragm has a leak or perhaps it has an intentional leak. Should it have no leaks? Thanks Mike
When I blow in my washer pressure switch it clicks twice bur the pressure leaks out..in fact I can hear a hissing sound when I continue to blow after the clicks….I presume the diaphragm has a leak or perhaps it has an intentional leak. Should it have no leaks?
Thanks
Mike
Likely replying to Mike Crouch
Hello Mike, if it’s one of the old style pressure switches that physically turns switches on and off it should be totally airtight. You should be able to blow into in and place your finger over the spout and the click should hold. You might not be able to get a finger on it fast enough to trap both clicks but should be able to trap the last click which should hold until finger is released. But if you can tell that air is passing though it somehow it must have a leak. If this is the case I would expect the machine to overfill, or to constantly keep topping up with water as the air pressure keeps dropping (which would result eventually in overfilling) or it should abort the cycle with an error.
0 replies Helo Paul. This "error" is supposed to clear itself. If it doesn't, the advice is to run either an "Eco drum clean" cycle (only available on some models) or a 90°C cotton cycle with no detergent or washing load.
Helo Paul. This “error” is supposed to clear itself. If it doesn’t, the advice is to run either an “Eco drum clean” cycle (only available on some models) or a 90°C cotton cycle with no detergent or washing load.
0 replies Hi, I have a samsung ecobubble 2013 washing machine, model no WF1602W5S, I keep getting a sud error code even when I wash with no soap in, I have checked the filter, drain pump, & have taken off & cleaned out the pressure pipe,I have reset the machine, but still get the error code, could you tell me if the foam sensor is part of the pressure switch, or is located elsewhere in the machine, I have been on to Samsung, & they cant help.
Hi, I have a samsung ecobubble 2013 washing machine, model no WF1602W5S, I keep getting a sud error code even when I wash with no soap in, I have checked the filter, drain pump, & have taken off & cleaned out the pressure pipe,I have reset the machine, but still get the error code, could you tell me if the foam sensor is part of the pressure switch, or is located elsewhere in the machine, I have been on to Samsung, & they cant help.
0 replies A blocked pressure system can cause the washing machine to not spin, but as it wouldn't spin because it thought it had been unable to drain out the water it should normally produce an error. Some washing machines may not spin because they couldn't balance the load properly and then eventually finish without spinning as though nothing was wrong. However, that should only happen occasionally with a bad load and not every time with different loads. I wouldn't change the PCB, it's too speculative and they aren't cheap.
A blocked pressure system can cause the washing machine to not spin, but as it wouldn’t spin because it thought it had been unable to drain out the water it should normally produce an error. Some washing machines may not spin because they couldn’t balance the load properly and then eventually finish without spinning as though nothing was wrong. However, that should only happen occasionally with a bad load and not every time with different loads. I wouldn’t change the PCB, it’s too speculative and they aren’t cheap.
0 replies I have Bosch WFO 2860. The machine appears to go through the wash and drain cycle but when it gets to the spin cycle it just says the cycle is complete. Would this be a a pressure switch or the Pub?
I have Bosch WFO 2860. The machine appears to go through the wash and drain cycle but when it gets to the spin cycle it just says the cycle is complete. Would this be a a pressure switch or the Pub?
0 replies Hello Jean and thanks. It's probably frustrating, but my article (and the previous - how the pressure system works) are intended to just give a good idea how the pressure system works. From there, if someone has the skills and experience at repairing things - but just not washing machines - it might help them diagnose a fault. Continuously pumping when set on a cycle could be caused by insulation faults on the machine. Continuous pumping could theoretically be caused by a stuck pressure switch if it has an overfill switch built in. I think stuck pressure switches are very unlikely these days though.
Hello Jean and thanks. It’s probably frustrating, but my article (and the previous – how the pressure system works) are intended to just give a good idea how the pressure system works. From there, if someone has the skills and experience at repairing things – but just not washing machines – it might help them diagnose a fault.
Continuously pumping when set on a cycle could be caused by insulation faults on the machine. Continuous pumping could theoretically be caused by a stuck pressure switch if it has an overfill switch built in. I think stuck pressure switches are very unlikely these days though.
0 replies It could be that there is a blockage in your pressure bottle that is only temporarily cleared when you blow down it. The relevant advice is in my article under the section, "Pressure chamber bottle". There is a link under that section that goes to a full article about clearing a blocked pressure system. It's best to call an engineer if reading this article doesn't help.
It could be that there is a blockage in your pressure bottle that is only temporarily cleared when you blow down it. The relevant advice is in my article under the section, “Pressure chamber bottle”. There is a link under that section that goes to a full article about clearing a blocked pressure system. It’s best to call an engineer if reading this article doesn’t help.
0 replies my candy 1682d front loader washing machine is not spinning and show error 03, i try blowing air through the pressure switch hose then it spin and washing operation completed.it fault came up again after some days then i repeat the same operation but it did not work so i tried the reset procedure it then worked. After some days of washing the same error code came up again.i have tried all i know but still it wont spin.i need your asistance
my candy 1682d front loader washing machine is not spinning and show error 03, i try blowing air through the pressure switch hose then it spin and washing operation completed.it fault came up again after some days then i repeat the same operation but it did not work so i tried the reset procedure it then worked. After some days of washing the same error code came up again.i have tried all i know but still it wont spin.i need your asistance
0 replies Further to my request above, I'm please to say I've resolved the fault - new pump fitted = problem fixed. Most satisfying, and only ~£20 for new pump from eBay.
Further to my request above, I’m please to say I’ve resolved the fault – new pump fitted = problem fixed. Most satisfying, and only ~£20 for new pump from eBay.
0 replies Hi there. I'm trying to resolve a problem with my front loading LG machine (F1480QDS). The machine has been temperamental for a couple of weeks, regularly stopping towards the end of a cycle with the OE code. Even when the machine does - rarely - complete a cycle, there is often some water left, albeit it's generally below the level of the drum. It does seem to drain some but not all of the water - I got a shock the first time I took the filter out when a significant amount of water came out. Interestingly this wouldn't drain out of the drain hose. I've also noticed it's not been washing properly, and doesn't appear to be rinsing effectively. I originally thought it was a blocked filter and/or blocked drain hose but have managed to discount both of those now. I took the pump out of the machine yesterday to see if there were any other noticeable blockages/faults but none seen. I've ordered a replacement pump thinking it can only be the pump, but your article has now got me thinking about other potential causes. Any advice gratefully received.
Hi there. I’m trying to resolve a problem with my front loading LG machine (F1480QDS). The machine has been temperamental for a couple of weeks, regularly stopping towards the end of a cycle with the OE code. Even when the machine does – rarely – complete a cycle, there is often some water left, albeit it’s generally below the level of the drum. It does seem to drain some but not all of the water – I got a shock the first time I took the filter out when a significant amount of water came out. Interestingly this wouldn’t drain out of the drain hose. I’ve also noticed it’s not been washing properly, and doesn’t appear to be rinsing effectively. I originally thought it was a blocked filter and/or blocked drain hose but have managed to discount both of those now. I took the pump out of the machine yesterday to see if there were any other noticeable blockages/faults but none seen. I’ve ordered a replacement pump thinking it can only be the pump, but your article has now got me thinking about other potential causes. Any advice gratefully received.
0 replies Zanussi ZWG6122 failed to complete cycle - pump filter blocked. Easy enough to clear this, but then the machine wouldn't do anything other than drain - all other programmes just turned on the pump, as though the machine was already full of water. Disconnected tubing from pressure switch and blew down it. Initially blocked but blew harder till bubbling noise from pressure bottle. Blockage cleared, pressure switch functions again and machine now fully operational. Many thanks for your article - saved me over £200.
Zanussi ZWG6122 failed to complete cycle – pump filter blocked. Easy enough to clear this, but then the machine wouldn’t do anything other than drain – all other programmes just turned on the pump, as though the machine was already full of water. Disconnected tubing from pressure switch and blew down it. Initially blocked but blew harder till bubbling noise from pressure bottle. Blockage cleared, pressure switch functions again and machine now fully operational.
Many thanks for your article – saved me over £200.
0 replies Pressure switches are normally very reliable. I'm presuming it's an older type pressure switch with audible clicks when blown into. To test one you need to know how many clicks there should be. They can be double or even triple level so it's possible for the first level switch to be jammed on making the washer think it's got water in when it hasn't. That would stop it taking more water in on wash and cause it to think the water is still in the machine on spin and refuse to spin. At the end of the day, attempting to fix faults that aren't straight forward is a gamble and a risk of wasting a lot of time and money.
Pressure switches are normally very reliable. I’m presuming it’s an older type pressure switch with audible clicks when blown into. To test one you need to know how many clicks there should be. They can be double or even triple level so it’s possible for the first level switch to be jammed on making the washer think it’s got water in when it hasn’t. That would stop it taking more water in on wash and cause it to think the water is still in the machine on spin and refuse to spin. At the end of the day, attempting to fix faults that aren’t straight forward is a gamble and a risk of wasting a lot of time and money.
Hi, I have a hoover OPH 714D washing machine, when i switch the machine on everything seems normal but when i choose a program the drain pump starts working and the door locks but no water is in the machine. I tried opening the door of the machine emptied a bucket of clean water maybe something else happenes but the water was emptied and the drain pump continued on working. I am to check the pressure switch by blowing and maybe trying to hear some clicking noises, i will then go to the pressure chamber which maybe there is any blockage.
Any pointers please maybe you had a similar problem.
Likely replying to JPG
Hello JPG. A fault on the pressure system could cause the machine to think it already has water in and stop it from taking in water. However, if it thinks it already has water in it should start turning the drum and “washing”. Such faults can also cause the heating element to energise which is a very bad thing with no water inside.
So if it isn’t turning the drum back and forth it’s unlikely to be a pressure system fault. I would start at this article Washing machine won’t fill with water
However, if it starts a cycle by running the pump (which is normal) but then the pump doesn’t stop running it won’t be a fault with filling. This is because the pump should stop before it tries to take in water. If the pump doesn’t stop running it is stuck. A fault on the pressure system might be a cause but if so it shouldn’t work on the spin cycle either. Does it spin OK on a spin only cycle?
I had this same problem twice now and both times it turned out to be the heating element
Hi, your article was very informative but i need specific places where i need to check due to the continuous draining. You mentioned that “Various things can go wrong causing symptoms described below but all these symptoms have other possible causes too”, from your experience where do i need to start in sorting out the problem