People with this washing machine fault can report two different symptoms which require different lines of investigations. One is where the drum does not revolve on any part of the cycle, and the other is where the drum does rotate on wash and rinses – but it’s just not spinning the clothes at the end. It's important to bear in mind which one of these you have when looking at these common causes or you could investigate completely irrelevant fixes.
Quick check
- The drum is not turning at all on any part of the cycle? Continue with this article
- The drum seems OK on wash and rinse but just won’t do the fast spin at the end? You need this article – Washing machine not spinning
The drum doesn’t turn at all
When the drum does not turn at all, either on wash, rinse or spin the washer may fill up with water and drain the water but the drum just sits there doing nothing. This means either the motor is not running at all, or something is preventing it from physically turning the drum.
Check the drive belt
If the belt is off, then there are usually reasons for this. It's rare for a belt to come off for no reason although it can happen. Clearly if it comes off again after being refitted, there is likely to be a fault – Drive belt on washing machine won’t stay on – keeps coming off.
How tight should a drive belt be on a washing machine?
Fairly tight. You should be able to pluck the belt and get a nice resounding "ping". The belt shouldn't be over tightened though. There should be some sideways play and you should be able to move the belt from side to side approximately a quarter of an inch in the middle. Unfortunately many modern washing machines are deliberately designed so you can't adjust a slack belt. There are no motor slots to adjust. This means of course you must buy a new one if yours is loose (buy new washing machine belt at 4washerhelp)
Another possible cause of drum not turning?
Maybe the carbon brushes in the motor are worn
Don’t speculatively replace carbon brushes even if you find they are substantially worn down. If worn carbon brushes are the cause of your motor not working then at least one of them should be charred, black, sooty – see pics here – carbon brushes diagnostics & fitting.
The point here is that if both brushes look worn enough to need replacing that's fair enough, they do, but if both are nice and shiny along the area where they run on the armature this shows they are still making good contact, and the absence of charring (as shown on the diagnostics & fitting link) indicates they are probably not the cause of your current problem.
Also, if your brushes are charred, and clearly the problem, they could still only be part of the problem. The armature could be worn too meaning new brushes will not run without excessive sparking, which could cause more serious damage. Or maybe the worn brushes could have flashed and blown something on the pcb or the t.o.c (thermal overload cut-out) on the motor’s field coil. This fault should really be looked at by an experienced appliance engineer with a proper insulation test meter.
Not all motors have carbon brushes fitted
Note that many washing machines these days have brush-less motors. These motors are more reliable, and quieter. They are usually totally silent during wash so you only really hear the water being splashed about. If you have a brushless motor and the motor is not running then it obviously can’t be caused by worn brushes so after checking the connections and motor plug you’d be better calling in an appliance engineer
Hotpoint & Creda carbon brushes
Many Hotpoint and Creda washing machines are notorious for not spinning due to worn carbon brushes because the ones fitted were very soft and thin. Please note that the carbon brushes are only one possible cause for not spinning, and that you must be competent to carry out such DIY repairs. For diagnostic help specifically for the most common Hotpoint & Creda motors which should also serve as general good guidance for any washing machine motor brushes diagnostics check out carbon brushes diagnostics | How to fit Hotpoint / Creda carbon brushes
Finally
Other possible causes are a tacho coil fallen off the motor, module faults, connection faults anywhere between the control pcb and the motor and PCB faults as well as motor faults on the field coil or armature. It would be unwise to start buying expensive parts speculatively. Find a washing machine engineer
Buy new brushes
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Comments Disabled
Sorry, comments on this topic have been closed. The article already contains all the advice I can think of or I’m comfortable publishing. If the article and any previous comments (below) don’t help, please consider contacting an appliance engineer
Do your research. Don't waste money with bad purchases. 
Hi Andy, your advice is welcome indeed. My US purchased Creda Supaspeed is 17 years old now, and has just shown the symptoms of this article: non functioning drive motor 100%, all other pumping and misc.devices OK. New brushes were installed, no impact. Your complete continuity testing was performed, all correct. I suppose this might suggest the control module, perhaps the triac? You are certainly the expert in this area, not me, so your help would be welcome indeed. I do love my Creda appliances, so I sure hope a solution is possible. Thank you. Wyatt
Thanks Wyatt. Did you check the carbon brushes diagnostics photos I linked to in the second paragraph of the “Another possible cause of drum not turning” section? The reason I ask is it makes a difference if your brushes definitely needed replacing or not. In other words was either of them charred as shown in the photos?
If one was charred then it means it was definitely the fault, and if it still doesn’t work either they haven’t fitted right, there’s a faulty connection somewhere on the motor or the motor plug, or when they became charred because of sparking something blew. Motors have a thermal overload cut out built into the filed coil windings and they can also blow something on the main control board.
If the brushes weren’t charred (albeit they might have been ready for replacement) then it could be anything I just mentioned plus other things. Unfortunately this kind of fault isn’t something that can be talked through step by step, or something I encourage without proper test meters or training. Unless you can find a faulty connection, or something like a pin pushed back in the motor plug, if just replacing brushes (which is relatively easy) doesn’t get the motor up and running I have to advise getting an engineer in.
Hi Andy, thank you for your Ferrari fast reply; a rare event these days! The brushes removed certainly did qualify for being charred, most of the remaining shank decent but charcoal on the tips. I realize that you have to recommend outside help for potentially dangerous testing, liability and all of that, but I am reasonably qualified for this type of activity, career in the space program; just no experience with appliances little tricks. So, I have taken it upon myself to do a little testing, not from your idea, just looking for your experienced comments. The plug supplying power to the motor, 7 pin, so potential voltage to pins 2 and 3, has voltage only at 2. The black triac, held to the metal heatsink with a metal clip, is surrounded by a small stream of white goo. These guys have a direct connection, both questionable, so I am suspicious. Your opinion would be welcome indeed. Please don’t write me off, just be aware I have retired to a small village on the Oregon coast, engineering is unavailable, and I am the only rocket scientist around. So, it is me or nobody. Have a great day. Wyatt
Hi Wyatt: Thanks, you are right in that I am very reluctant to get drawn into giving anything other than basic general advice. I’m aware that some people are more than qualified, and have better knowledge and experience than most domestic appliance engineers, which is an argument I put forward when debating why I think Miele are wrong for refusing to help people fix their own appliances like all the other manufacturers do. But of course for every one who’s really proficient with repairs and electricity there are many who aren’t safe messing around. I do get nervous when people talk about testing voltage on live appliances though, which is something I would never do. I always fault-find with a continuity test meter with machine unplugged.
If your carbon brushes were charred but replacements haven’t got the motor running and you know they were fitted right and no motor plug problems maybe they blew something in the pcb (are they like the ones in my photos btw, which need the little brass tab lifting away to release them after fitting?)
To test the motor you need an insulation tester (500 v DC) to make sure there’s no low insulation which can damage something in the pcb. Also a continuity tester to test continuity across the armature (and brushes), the field coil and the tacho coil, the latter should have a very high resistance.
Hi, please bear with this newbee, I have a hotpoint washing machine that is washing and emptying fine when it tries to spin however i can hear a small click around the selector dial and it stops, i understand an engineer is probably my best option but this is not my main machine and i am trying to gain a little knowledge about what problems can be diyed and what cant.
Hello Rachell. Your problem is described in the right column of this article, where it talks about the second symptom of not spinning when it washes and rises ok but won’t do the fast spin. I’ve just added a few more paragraphs to make it better.
I don’t understand why no suggestion has as yet been made to knock the end of the motor sharply a few times. My friend worked out via Google that his brushes were faulty and was wondering where he might get replacements. I directed him to a supply source, but also suggested tapping the motor sharply. He did so, and rendered his machine fully functional again. Now he has mucho brownie points and plenty time to get replacement brushes. The “repair” will last anything from a few washes to months, and was so easy!!
Hi Kevin. Knocking the end of the motor and getting it to run again successfully for even one wash would be highly unlikely to work, though clearly it can as you report. It’s the same principle of bashing a TV to try and get it working or kicking an old boiler :)
It might work once in a blue moon but mostly it won’t. If there’s a dodgy connection somewhere it could reset it for a while, or if a brush is stuck and it hasn’t got charred it might help, but if the brushes have stopped making contact because one or both are charred and burned and or worn then it’s not going to help and frankly even if it did, it could backfire. A brush not making good contact may be jump started into running but could arc, and spark, sometimes badly, which can blow a pcb. If you do manage to get one up and running but it’s making any crackling or grating noises stop using it and get it fixed properly.
Hello can you help? my washing machine is a zanussi jetsystem excel 1250, it isnt spinning, brushes are fine , belt is fine any ideas please ?
Hello demelza: All my ideas went into this article. If you’ve read both columns and nothing helps I have to advise you get an engineer in.
have a wd540p hotpoint washer dryer it was working fine then this morning room lights went down and back on quickley the washer made a noise like a screech and then the drum stopped turning. managed to get washing out then put it on to run empty its gone through the program sounding normal but the drum still will not turn what could this be.it will turn by hand tryed this when empty be for putting on again .can you advise on possable cause thanks
Sounds like possibly the belt snapped? If so, something could have temporarily seized it up.
HI,
I’ve read your excellent article, thanks. I’ve a Whirlpool AWO/D 4606 and recently bought a new belt from yourselves as the old one had fallen off and kept falling off when I put it back on. However, it’s now apparent my problem wasn’t the belt. I noticed when putting on the new belt that my pulley was (sometimes) not turning in my hands even when no belt attached at all (drum also empty). It would ‘stick’ before then turning once more. So I put the new belt on, started the machine but it was clearly struggling to turn the drum. I could hear crackling / grinding noises. I don’t believe it’s the motor with its associated issues you mention in the article, but rather on the pulley or drum side of things. Ideas please? Many thanks.
Thanks Barry. A sock, or other item stuck inside can jam at the back of the drum causing similar symptoms but the grinding and crackling noises make it sound like it could possibly be drum bearings. If there is any brown rust marks down the back of the drum underneath the drum pulley this would indicate water has got inside them and they have gone. If the washer was noisy on spin for some time before this I would also suspect drum bearing, one of which could have collapsed.
If the bearing has collapsed there should be excessive play in the drum as described in this article – Washing machine is noisy
Hi Andy
We have a Beko washing machine. This morning we set a wash cycle, the machine started taking in water but the drum just stayed completely still? We left it on the wash cycle for about a minute, it carried on taking water but the drum still didn’t move? I took the washing out and then set the machine to a spin cycle, it sounded like the water started going out but again the drum didn’t move. Any ideas please?
Many thanks
I meant to add, the drum turned when tried by hand and there didn’t really seem to be any excess play in it?
Hi Pauline, all the ideas I have about this fault were put into my article above. I put down everything I could think of to try and help (including information on the right column).
Hello Andy, i have a zanussi xc6 hydrosystem 1400 it does everything but wash?? could this be my brushes? with thanks Pat…
If it spins OK, and rinses OK then no patricia. If brushes are faulty or worn the motor should stop turning altogether, or struggle to turn and make crackling grating noises whenever it turns.
Hiya,
I have a hotpoint wml540 and the machine will fill with water and make an attempt at washing but the drum does not do a full rotation and then stops and starts radomly again. coukd this be a belt? Am lost without this machine.
siobhan, only if the belt was so slack it was slipping, which is not too likely. It could be various things including connection faults, carbon brushes or pcb fault. Everything you can check is within this article. After that it’d be best to call an engineer.
Thankyou very much. have hopefuly got someone to look at it tomorrow.
Many thanks for your response
Let us know what it turns out to be please Siobhan.
I will indeed…fingers crossed it nothing expensive!!
Hi I’ve just repaired a zanussi 1050 that wasn’t spinning or washing but everything else fine. After inspecting the motor brushes they both had heaps left, but the stator copper connections were completely black so after a good clean with sandpaper, crc and a scribe the machine spun again but faster then ever. In the end a 10 minute fix. Saved a lot of money on buying a new machine which was very close.
Just a quick note to say thank you. Diagnosed the problem within five minutes. Fixed the machine (for now: curious about why the belt came off), will buy a replacement belt tomorrow just in case. Much appreciated.