Whitegoods Help article

Washing machine drum not turning

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Quick Answer

This guide is for when the drum does not turn at all – not during wash, rinse, or spin. If the drum turns during wash and rinse but fails to spin at the end, that is a different fault: see our guide on washing machine not spinning. The most common causes of a drum that does not turn at all are a broken or dislodged drive belt, worn carbon brushes, or a motor fault.

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Safety before starting

Always unplug the machine before opening it or accessing any internal component. Some brushless motors and suppressors contain capacitors that can retain a dangerous charge after unplugging – wait at least 5 minutes before touching internal components. See our DIY repair safety guide.

Step 1: Spin the Drum by Hand

With the machine unplugged, open the door and try turning the drum by hand. The result tells you a lot immediately.

What you feel What it suggests Next step
Turns freely, lighter than usual Drive belt has probably come off or broken Remove back panel and check the belt
Turns normally with no change Belt is likely still on – fault is motor or electrical Check motor, brushes, and wiring
Stiff or seized – will not turn Belt off and entangled, drum bearing seized, or motor bearing seized Remove the belt to isolate whether drum or motor is jammed
Isolating drum from motor

When turning the drum from the front without removing the belt, you are turning both the drum and the motor simultaneously. If the drum feels stiff, remove the drive belt first to determine whether the stiffness is in the drum or in the motor.

Step 2: Check the Drive Belt

Remove the back panel and inspect the drive belt. It runs from the motor pulley to the larger drum pulley at the rear of the drum.

❌ Belt broken or snapped

A broken belt needs replacing. Order a replacement from Spares4Appliances – specify your model number to get the correct part. Before fitting the new belt, identify why the old one broke.

✅ Belt off but undamaged

A belt that has come off but looks intact can be refitted – but first check that the large drum pulley is not loose. If the pulley is loose, tighten it before refitting the belt. If the belt comes off again after refitting, there is an underlying fault. See our guide on drive belt keeps coming off.

Why do belts come off?

A belt rarely comes off without a reason. The most common causes are a seized or noisy drum bearing (causing the drum pulley to wobble), a loose drum pulley, or a failing motor bearing. If the machine has been making rumbling or grinding noises before the belt came off, drum bearing failure is likely.

Step 3: If the Belt Is On – Check the Motor

If the belt is still on and not overly slack, and the drum turns normally by hand, the fault is in the motor or its control circuit. The drum is not turning because the motor is not running.

Carbon Brushes (Most Common Motor Fault)

Most washing machine motors with a traditional brush-type design rely on carbon brushes to transfer current to the rotating armature. As these wear down, they lose contact and the motor stops running. Worn brushes are the most common cause of a motor that fails to turn the drum.

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Do not replace carbon brushes speculatively

Even heavily worn brushes may not be the actual cause of the fault. Before ordering and fitting new brushes, check whether at least one brush is charred, blackened, or sooty. This confirms the brushes have been arcing and are responsible for the motor failure. See our full guide on diagnosing whether carbon brushes need replacing. Carbon brushes for most brands are available from Spares4Appliances.

For guidance on fitting replacement carbon brushes, see our guide on how to fit Hotpoint and Creda carbon brushes – the process is similar for most brands.

A crackling or grating sound when the drum turns under load but not when empty is also a sign of worn or failing brushes.

Brushless Motors

Many modern washing machines use brushless (inverter) motors – generally quieter and more reliable than brush-type motors, and typically very quiet during the wash cycle. If the machine has a brushless motor, worn carbon brushes cannot be the cause.

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Brushless motor capacitor warning

Some brushless motors contain large capacitors that can retain a dangerous electrical charge for several minutes after the machine is unplugged. Do not touch any component inside the motor area without waiting at least 5 minutes after unplugging. If you have any doubt about whether your machine has a brushless motor, call an engineer rather than investigating internally.

Other Causes When Belt and Brushes Have Been Ruled Out

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Wiring and connection faults

A broken wire or loose connector between the control board and the motor will prevent the motor from receiving power regardless of how sound the motor itself is. Check the wiring connectors at the motor plug and trace back along the wiring harness for any visible damage.

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Tacho coil fallen off the motor

If the tacho coil – a small sensing coil on the motor – has physically fallen away from its mounting, the control board cannot detect whether the motor is running and will not allow it to operate. See our guide on tacho coil faults for more detail.

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Open circuit suppressor (Hotpoint, Indesit, Creda, Ariston)

On certain machines running specific software, a failed mains suppressor can prevent the motor from running – with no error code displayed. This is counterintuitive and often catches out engineers. Do not attempt to work on or bypass the suppressor – these components can hold a dangerous charge after unplugging.

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PCB or motor component failure

Open circuit field coil, failed thermal overload cutout (TOC), armature fault, or PCB failure can all prevent the motor from running. Many PCB faults are not visible to the eye – black soot around a component is sometimes just heat discolouration rather than burning damage. Do not replace expensive components speculatively.


Cannot Identify the Fault? Book an Engineer

Motor and PCB faults beyond the belt and brushes are difficult to diagnose without specialist equipment. A qualified engineer can diagnose and repair the fault quickly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my washing machine drum not turning at all?

The most common causes are a broken or dislodged drive belt, worn carbon brushes in the motor, or a wiring fault between the control board and the motor. Start by spinning the drum by hand to determine whether it turns freely (suggesting a belt or motor fault) or feels stiff or seized (suggesting a bearing failure or entangled belt). Then check the belt and motor in that order.

The drum feels lighter than usual when turned by hand – what does that mean?

This strongly suggests the drive belt has come off or broken. With the belt removed, the drum spins freely without the resistance of the motor. Remove the back panel and check the belt. If it has come off but looks undamaged, check the drum pulley for looseness before refitting. If it has snapped, replace it and investigate why it broke.

How do I know if my machine has carbon brushes?

Brush-type motors are typically identifiable by a louder sound during wash (the commutator and brushes produce a faint noise) and by accessible brush holders on the side of the motor that can be removed for inspection. Brushless motors are generally very quiet – you mainly hear water movement during wash. If unsure, check the model documentation or ask an engineer before opening the motor.

Can I replace the drive belt myself?

In most cases, yes – provided the back panel can be removed and the new belt looped onto the pulleys. It is one of the more accessible DIY washing machine repairs. Order the correct belt for your model number from Spares4Appliances. Before fitting, check the drum pulley is tight and inspect the motor pulley for any damage that might have caused the old belt to break or come off.

Last reviewed: April 2026.

Discussion

35 Comments

Grouped into 22 comment threads.

Jatinder 3 replies My washer motor is not running when I gave supply to washer making noise low but motor not running not spinning

My washer motor is not running when I gave supply to washer making noise low but motor not running not spinning

Andy Trigg

Likely replying to Jatinder

Jatinder, that’s what this article is designed to inform about. If the article doesn’t help you need to get an engineer.

Ore Babalola

Likely replying to Andy Trigg

Dear Andy….just bought a top loader washing machine… Soaked a small towel inside it since yesterday (did not know I should n’t)… Now it is not spinning…when I emptied the machine…I turned it on.. It started spinning… But when I put back the towel it won’t spin…why…? It is a 6kg…

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg) 1 reply If the belt is on OK it leaves faulty connections somewhere on or between the pcb and motor connector, worn carbon brushes in the motor (common due to wear), various other faults on the motor, or a fault on the pcb or module. If you can get the brushes checked there's a link in the article giving general pointers on what to look for diagnosing worn carbon brushes. Other than that if you can't see any broken wires or connections to the motor and on the connectors you'd need to get an engineer in.

If the belt is on OK it leaves faulty connections somewhere on or between the pcb and motor connector, worn carbon brushes in the motor (common due to wear), various other faults on the motor, or a fault on the pcb or module. If you can get the brushes checked there’s a link in the article giving general pointers on what to look for diagnosing worn carbon brushes. Other than that if you can’t see any broken wires or connections to the motor and on the connectors you’d need to get an engineer in.

KidAmanda

Thank you very much,engineer on route, helped to be able to explain the fault, he agrees brushes. Ill keep you posted 😊😊😊

Mike Taylor 1 reply Just a quick note to say thank you. Diagnosed the problem within five minutes. Fixed the machine (for now: curious about why the belt came off), will buy a replacement belt tomorrow just in case. Much appreciated.

Just a quick note to say thank you. Diagnosed the problem within five minutes. Fixed the machine (for now: curious about why the belt came off), will buy a replacement belt tomorrow just in case. Much appreciated.

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to Mike Taylor

Thanks Mike, the belt comes off if the drum has too much play or the drum pulley is loose but they can just come off for no apparent reason or because they were too slack.

siobhan 1 reply Hiya, I have a hotpoint wml540 and the machine will fill with water and make an attempt at washing but the drum does not do a full rotation and then stops and starts radomly again. coukd this be a belt? Am lost without this machine.

Hiya,

I have a hotpoint wml540 and the machine will fill with water and make an attempt at washing but the drum does not do a full rotation and then stops and starts radomly again. coukd this be a belt? Am lost without this machine.

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to siobhan

siobhan, only if the belt was so slack it was slipping, which is not too likely. It could be various things including connection faults, carbon brushes or pcb fault. Everything you can check is within this article. After that it’d be best to call an engineer.

Pauline 1 reply Hi Andy We have a Beko washing machine. This morning we set a wash cycle, the machine started taking in water but the drum just stayed completely still? We left it on the wash cycle for about a minute, it carried on taking water but the drum still didn't move? I took the washing out and then set the machine to a spin cycle, it sounded like the water started going out but again the drum didn't move. Any ideas please? Many thanks I meant to add, the drum turned when tried by hand and there didn’t really seem to be any excess play in it?

Hi Andy
We have a Beko washing machine. This morning we set a wash cycle, the machine started taking in water but the drum just stayed completely still? We left it on the wash cycle for about a minute, it carried on taking water but the drum still didn’t move? I took the washing out and then set the machine to a spin cycle, it sounded like the water started going out but again the drum didn’t move. Any ideas please?
Many thanks

I meant to add, the drum turned when tried by hand and there didn’t really seem to be any excess play in it?

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to Pauline

Hi Pauline, all the ideas I have about this fault were put into my article above. I put down everything I could think of to try and help (including information on the right column).

Barry Murphy 1 reply HI, I've read your excellent article, thanks. I've a Whirlpool AWO/D 4606 and recently bought a new belt from yourselves as the old one had fallen off and kept falling off when I put it back on. However, it's now apparent my problem wasn't the belt. I noticed when putting on the new belt that my pulley was (sometimes) not turning in my hands even when no belt attached at all (drum also empty). It would 'stick' before then turning once more. So I put the new belt on, started the machine but it was clearly struggling to turn the drum. I could hear crackling / grinding noises. I don't believe it's the motor with its associated issues you mention in the article, but rather on the pulley or drum side of things. Ideas please? Many thanks.

HI,
I’ve read your excellent article, thanks. I’ve a Whirlpool AWO/D 4606 and recently bought a new belt from yourselves as the old one had fallen off and kept falling off when I put it back on. However, it’s now apparent my problem wasn’t the belt. I noticed when putting on the new belt that my pulley was (sometimes) not turning in my hands even when no belt attached at all (drum also empty). It would ‘stick’ before then turning once more. So I put the new belt on, started the machine but it was clearly struggling to turn the drum. I could hear crackling / grinding noises. I don’t believe it’s the motor with its associated issues you mention in the article, but rather on the pulley or drum side of things. Ideas please? Many thanks.

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to Barry Murphy

Thanks Barry. A sock, or other item stuck inside can jam at the back of the drum causing similar symptoms but the grinding and crackling noises make it sound like it could possibly be drum bearings. If there is any brown rust marks down the back of the drum underneath the drum pulley this would indicate water has got inside them and they have gone. If the washer was noisy on spin for some time before this I would also suspect drum bearing, one of which could have collapsed.

If the bearing has collapsed there should be excessive play in the drum as described in this article – Washing machine is noisy

demelza 1 reply Hello can you help? my washing machine is a zanussi jetsystem excel 1250, it isnt spinning, brushes are fine , belt is fine any ideas please ?

Hello can you help? my washing machine is a zanussi jetsystem excel 1250, it isnt spinning, brushes are fine , belt is fine any ideas please ?

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to demelza

Hello demelza: All my ideas went into this article. If you’ve read both columns and nothing helps I have to advise you get an engineer in.

Kevin 1 reply I don't understand why no suggestion has as yet been made to knock the end of the motor sharply a few times. My friend worked out via Google that his brushes were faulty and was wondering where he might get replacements. I directed him to a supply source, but also suggested tapping the motor sharply. He did so, and rendered his machine fully functional again. Now he has mucho brownie points and plenty time to get replacement brushes. The "repair" will last anything from a few washes to months, and was so easy!!

I don’t understand why no suggestion has as yet been made to knock the end of the motor sharply a few times. My friend worked out via Google that his brushes were faulty and was wondering where he might get replacements. I directed him to a supply source, but also suggested tapping the motor sharply. He did so, and rendered his machine fully functional again. Now he has mucho brownie points and plenty time to get replacement brushes. The “repair” will last anything from a few washes to months, and was so easy!!

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to Kevin

Hi Kevin. Knocking the end of the motor and getting it to run again successfully for even one wash would be highly unlikely to work, though clearly it can as you report. It’s the same principle of bashing a TV to try and get it working or kicking an old boiler :)

It might work once in a blue moon but mostly it won’t. If there’s a dodgy connection somewhere it could reset it for a while, or if a brush is stuck and it hasn’t got charred it might help, but if the brushes have stopped making contact because one or both are charred and burned and or worn then it’s not going to help and frankly even if it did, it could backfire. A brush not making good contact may be jump started into running but could arc, and spark, sometimes badly, which can blow a pcb. If you do manage to get one up and running but it’s making any crackling or grating noises stop using it and get it fixed properly.

rachell 1 reply Hi, please bear with this newbee, I have a hotpoint washing machine that is washing and emptying fine when it tries to spin however i can hear a small click around the selector dial and it stops, i understand an engineer is probably my best option but this is not my main machine and i am trying to gain a little knowledge about what problems can be diyed and what cant.

Hi, please bear with this newbee, I have a hotpoint washing machine that is washing and emptying fine when it tries to spin however i can hear a small click around the selector dial and it stops, i understand an engineer is probably my best option but this is not my main machine and i am trying to gain a little knowledge about what problems can be diyed and what cant.

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to rachell

Hello Rachell. Your problem is described in the right column of this article, where it talks about the second symptom of not spinning when it washes and rises ok but won’t do the fast spin. I’ve just added a few more paragraphs to make it better.

Wyatt Q. Smith 1 reply Hi Andy, thank you for your Ferrari fast reply; a rare event these days! The brushes removed certainly did qualify for being charred, most of the remaining shank decent but charcoal on the tips. I realize that you have to recommend outside help for potentially dangerous testing, liability and all of that, but I am reasonably qualified for this type of activity, career in the space program; just no experience with appliances little tricks. So, I have taken it upon myself to do a little testing, not from your idea, just looking for your experienced comments. The plug supplying power to the motor, 7 pin, so potential voltage to pins 2 and 3, has voltage only at 2. The black triac, held to the metal heatsink with a metal clip, is surrounded by a small stream of white goo. These guys have a direct connection, both questionable, so I am suspicious. Your opinion would be welcome indeed. Please don't write me off, just be aware I have retired to a small village on the Oregon coast, engineering is unavailable, and I am the only rocket scientist around. So, it is me or nobody. Have a great day. Wyatt

Hi Andy, thank you for your Ferrari fast reply; a rare event these days! The brushes removed certainly did qualify for being charred, most of the remaining shank decent but charcoal on the tips. I realize that you have to recommend outside help for potentially dangerous testing, liability and all of that, but I am reasonably qualified for this type of activity, career in the space program; just no experience with appliances little tricks. So, I have taken it upon myself to do a little testing, not from your idea, just looking for your experienced comments. The plug supplying power to the motor, 7 pin, so potential voltage to pins 2 and 3, has voltage only at 2. The black triac, held to the metal heatsink with a metal clip, is surrounded by a small stream of white goo. These guys have a direct connection, both questionable, so I am suspicious. Your opinion would be welcome indeed. Please don’t write me off, just be aware I have retired to a small village on the Oregon coast, engineering is unavailable, and I am the only rocket scientist around. So, it is me or nobody. Have a great day. Wyatt

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to Wyatt Q. Smith

Hi Wyatt: Thanks, you are right in that I am very reluctant to get drawn into giving anything other than basic general advice. I’m aware that some people are more than qualified, and have better knowledge and experience than most domestic appliance engineers, which is an argument I put forward when debating why I think Miele are wrong for refusing to help people fix their own appliances like all the other manufacturers do. But of course for every one who’s really proficient with repairs and electricity there are many who aren’t safe messing around. I do get nervous when people talk about testing voltage on live appliances though, which is something I would never do. I always fault-find with a continuity test meter with machine unplugged.

If your carbon brushes were charred but replacements haven’t got the motor running and you know they were fitted right and no motor plug problems maybe they blew something in the pcb (are they like the ones in my photos btw, which need the little brass tab lifting away to release them after fitting?)

To test the motor you need an insulation tester (500 v DC) to make sure there’s no low insulation which can damage something in the pcb. Also a continuity tester to test continuity across the armature (and brushes), the field coil and the tacho coil, the latter should have a very high resistance.