Sealed Drums vs Split Tubs in Washing Machines

What is the difference between a sealed drum and a split tub?

The outer tub of a washing machine is the large, fixed plastic container that holds the spinning drum and the wash water. The drum bearings sit at the rear of this tub, supporting the shaft that the rotating inner drum spins on.

Whether those bearings can be replaced when they eventually wear out depends entirely on how the outer tub is constructed – and there are only two designs in mainstream use.

Split tub (older traditional design)
The outer tub is made in two halves that bolt together around a central seal. Once the tub is removed from the machine, the two halves can be separated to expose the bearings, the shaft seal, the drum spider, and the inner stainless steel drum. Each of these components can be replaced individually – typically at a modest parts cost – and the work is well within the capability of a qualified appliance engineer.

Sealed tub (modern dominant design)
The outer tub is made in two halves that are permanently joined at the factory by ultrasonic welding, hot-plate welding, adhesive bonding, or a combination of these methods. Once joined, the two halves cannot be separated without destroying the tub. The bearings and seals are sealed inside permanently, and when they fail, the entire tub-and-drum assembly must be discarded and replaced as one part.

Which washing machine brands use sealed drums and which still have replaceable bearings?

The sealed-tub design is now the dominant approach across the UK market. The list of brands that have moved to sealed tubs covers almost every name a typical buyer would recognise.

Sealed tub – bearings not replaceable
Hotpoint, Indesit, Bosch, Siemens, Neff, Beko, Blomberg, Zanussi, AEG, Electrolux, Whirlpool, Samsung, Haier, Hoover, Candy, Hisense, and most own-brand machines. If the brand is mainstream and the model is from the last 10 to 15 years, assume the tub is sealed unless a parts diagram proves otherwise.

Part-serviceable – bearings often replaceable
LG Direct Drive models typically retain a part-serviceable tub design with replaceable bearings, although the job is more involved than on the older bolted designs. Some Miele models also retain serviceable internals, though Miele has been moving toward sealed-tub variants on newer ranges. Always verify the design on the specific model before buying.

Don’t rely on a brand reputation alone

Tub design can change between generations of the same model range. A Miele or LG model that had replaceable bearings five years ago may have a sealed tub today. The only reliable way to confirm is to check the official parts diagram for that exact model number, or ask a qualified engineer who works on the brand regularly.

How long do washing machine bearings last – and why does it matter?

Drum bearings are a wear component. They support the entire weight of a fully loaded drum spinning at speeds up to 1,600 rpm, thousands of times over the life of the machine.

Eventually they wear out. On a well-maintained machine in normal household use, bearing failure typically begins to show after 7 to 10 years – sometimes earlier, sometimes later. It is one of the most common and predictable late-life faults on any washing machine of any age, in any design.

The difference between those last two figures is the entire story of this article. On a split-tub machine, a bearing failure was once a routine, affordable repair. On a sealed-tub machine, the same wear event becomes a write-off decision.

For the noise signature of failing bearings, see our guide to what noisy washing machine drum bearings sound like.

How can you tell which design your washing machine has?

Most consumers never need to know which design their washing machine uses until something goes wrong. By that point, the answer to “is this repairable?” is already determined by a design choice the manufacturer made years before the machine reached the home.

1. Look at the tub seam. If the tub is split, there will be a visible band of bolt heads or clips running around the circumference of the tub where the two halves are held together. If the tub is sealed, there will be no bolts or clips – only a faint join line where the two halves were welded or bonded at the factory. On most modern machines this can be seen by removing the rear panel and looking at the back of the tub.
2. Check the service manual or parts list. If the parts diagram shows individual bearings, a shaft seal, and a drum spider as separate orderable parts, the tub is split and serviceable. If the only available part in that section of the diagram is a complete tub-and-drum assembly, the tub is sealed. The parts list is the definitive answer for any model – see our guidance on buying washing machine spares.
3. Ask a qualified engineer. An appliance engineer who works on your brand regularly will know whether the specific model has a serviceable tub or not. Getting a qualified diagnosis is worthwhile before committing to any bearing repair – it confirms the fault, identifies the design, and prices the available options. Book an appliance repair if you’re not sure.

Why do manufacturers use sealed tubs?

Manufacturers offer several justifications for the move to sealed tubs. Some have technical merit. Others read more as commercial convenience dressed up as engineering progress. An honest assessment of both sides matters for any consumer trying to understand what they are actually buying.

Is sealed-drum design a form of planned obsolescence?

This is the question that matters most, and it deserves a careful answer rather than a slogan.

Strictly speaking, “planned obsolescence” describes a deliberate engineering decision to limit a product’s lifespan in order to drive replacement sales. Manufacturers will not – and probably cannot – openly accept that label. The defence offered is that sealed tubs are an engineering simplification with multiple legitimate benefits, and that bearing failure is a normal end-of-life event that happens whether the tub is sealed or not.

That defence has some truth to it. Bearings do wear out on every washing machine. Many older split-tub machines failed for reasons unrelated to bearings and were scrapped long before the bearings became a problem. A sealed-tub design does not cause bearings to fail any sooner.

But the design choice does change what a bearing failure means. On a serviceable tub, bearing wear was a repair. On a sealed tub, bearing wear is a write-off. The point at which a household decides to dispose of a working appliance – simply because the economically rational repair has been engineered out – is brought forward as a direct result of the design.

What should you do if your bearings have failed?

The honest practical position for households whose washing machine develops bearing noise – a rumbling sound during spin, growing louder over weeks or months – is to work through these four steps before making any decision.

Step one – get a proper diagnosis

Bearing noise can be confused with motor bracket damage, drum spider corrosion, foreign objects between the drum and tub, or worn shock absorbers. A qualified engineer can identify the actual cause and confirm whether the tub is sealed or serviceable on your specific model.

Step two – get the parts price

If the tub is split and bearings are individually available, the parts cost is typically modest. If the tub is sealed and the entire assembly must be replaced, the bare part is usually £150 to £300+ before fitting. Our spare parts service can identify the price for your specific model.

Step three – weigh repair against replacement

For a sealed-tub machine, repair cost plus labour can approach the price of a new mid-range washing machine. Our repair or replace guide covers age, energy efficiency of likely replacements, and the environmental footprint of disposal.

Step four – factor in your Right to Repair

UK Right to Repair regulations require manufacturers to make certain spare parts (including drums and motors) available for 7 to 10 years after a product was last sold. The rules don’t require the tub to be split, but they do require that the assembly remain available as a part. See your rights under the Consumer Rights Act.

How does this compare across machine designs and price ranges?

The table below shows how bearing repair economics typically work out across the main design and price tiers in the UK market.

About Which? reviews

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How should sealed-tub design influence which washing machine you buy?

Sealed-tub design is now so dominant in the UK market that avoiding it altogether is difficult. But it remains worth considering, especially for households who want to maximise the useful life of their next washing machine.

Ask before you buy

Retailers rarely volunteer information about tub construction, but most appliance service technicians and parts suppliers know which current models still have serviceable tubs. Asking the question directly is unusual but legitimate – and signals to retailers that consumers care.

Look at LG Direct Drive and premium European models

LG Direct Drive machines typically retain replaceable bearings, although the job is more involved than the old bolted designs. Some Miele models retain serviceable internals – though the position should be checked on a model-by-model basis at the time of purchase, since Miele has been moving toward sealed-tub variants on newer ranges.

Factor lifetime cost honestly

A £350 sealed-tub machine that becomes a write-off at year 8 is not necessarily worse value than a £800 serviceable machine that gets new bearings at year 10 and runs to year 18. Lifetime cost depends on purchase price, repair availability, energy efficiency, and household usage. Our how long a washing machine should last guide covers the maths.

Know your rights

Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, goods must be durable – which in case law means a reasonable lifespan for the type and price of product. A premium machine that becomes economically unrepairable after a short period may give rise to a consumer rights claim against the retailer. See consumer rights when buying appliances. This is general guidance, not legal advice.

Can sealed-tub bearing replacement be done DIY?

Technically, a sealed tub can be cut open with a hacksaw or rotary tool, the bearings replaced, and the tub bolted back together with new fixings and silicone sealant. Some YouTube channels demonstrate this as a DIY approach.

In practice, Whitegoods Help does not recommend it for most households. The cut-and-rejoin route relies on creating a watertight seal where the manufacturer designed none, and any leak that develops later can damage the floor, the electrics, and the motor. The work involves stripping the machine almost completely, which is well beyond a typical first-time DIY repair. It also voids any remaining warranty and can fall foul of safety standards on rejoining.

If you’re determined to attempt it, do so on a machine you are otherwise prepared to scrap if the repair fails – and read our repairing a plastic outer drum guidance and DIY repair safety advice first. For anyone wanting to develop the skills properly rather than learn through trial and error on a kitchen floor, professional training is a far better route.

Safety notice

Electrical and water safety

A washing machine combines mains electricity with mains water – the two least forgiving things in a domestic setting. Always unplug a machine from the wall socket before removing any panel, and isolate the water supply before touching any hose, pipe, or seal.

Drum bearing diagnosis and replacement involves dismantling the machine almost completely, lifting and supporting heavy components, and reassembling water-bearing joints to a standard that will not leak. Whitegoods Help recommends that bearing replacement on any machine – sealed or split – is carried out by a qualified appliance engineer or by someone who has completed formal training. If you are in any doubt, book a qualified engineer rather than attempt the repair yourself.

Always check the OPSS product safety database for any active recall on your appliance before continuing to use it. See also: DIY repair safety advice.

Frequently asked questions