Loading a washing machine
Aim for around 80% drum capacity – enough room for laundry to move freely as the drum turns, but not so little that heavy items can clump on one side. Overloading causes poor wash results. Under-loading causes unbalanced loads that can result in violent spin banging or the machine refusing to spin at all.
Getting the drum loading right makes a significant difference to wash quality, spin efficiency, and the long-term health of the machine. Both extremes – too much and too little – cause distinct and avoidable problems.
Overloading the Drum
An overloaded drum leaves laundry with no room to move. Items circulate as one large compressed mass rather than tumbling freely through the wash water and detergent solution.
What overloading causes
- Poor wash results – detergent cannot circulate or dissolve properly
- Laundry comes out badly creased – see our guide on laundry coming out badly creased
- Excess strain on the motor, drum bearings, and suspension
- In extreme cases, manufacturers have warned that door glass can shatter under the pressure of an overfilled drum – over 90 cases of exploding door glass have been reported. See our guide on washing machine door glass danger
Bear in mind that a full dry drum looks larger than it will be once wet. Many items compress significantly when wet, so a drum that looks very full when loaded will have considerably less bulk once the cycle is underway. Pat the clothes down and check there is a clear hand-width gap between the top of the load and the top of the drum before closing the door.
Under-loading the Drum
Under-loading is a less obvious problem than overloading but causes just as much trouble. With too few items inside, there is not enough laundry distributed around the drum to keep the load balanced on spin.
What under-loading causes
- Unbalanced spin loads – heavy items clump on one side with nothing to counter their weight
- Violent banging on spin if the machine does not detect the imbalance in time – see our guide on washing machine jumping and banging on spin
- Machine refusing to reach fast spin speed – modern machines detect imbalance and will not accelerate if the load is too unevenly distributed. This is protective but leaves laundry wet at the end of the cycle
- Particularly problematic with single heavy items – a bath mat, a duvet, or a single large towel. See our guide on machines that won’t spin single items or small loads
An overfull drum may wash poorly, but an underfull drum with a heavy item on one side can produce a dramatically unbalanced spin. Heavy bath mats are a well-known example – washing one alone almost always results in imbalance. Adding old towels or sheets to the load gives the machine enough material to distribute weight evenly.
How to Load Correctly
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Aim for 80% drum capacity. Fill the drum to roughly four-fifths full. This gives laundry enough room to tumble freely while ensuring sufficient mass for balanced spinning. Pat the load down and confirm there is a clear gap between the top of the load and the top of the drum.
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Mix item types and weights. Avoid washing a single heavy item alone. If washing a bath mat, heavy jumper, or single duvet, add lighter items – old towels or sheets work well – to pad out the load and distribute weight around the drum.
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Avoid mixing very heavy and very light items. A few dense, absorbent items alongside very lightweight fabrics can result in the heavy items bunching to one side. The lighter items cannot counterbalance their weight effectively. Keep heavy loads together or add more items of a similar weight.
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Check your machine’s manual for specific guidance. Drum capacity ratings and loading recommendations vary by machine, particularly for items like duvets and pillows which have specific guidance on whether they can be washed at all and what load size works best.
Occasional vs Persistent Imbalance
An occasional unbalanced load – even with loads you have washed successfully many times before – is an inevitable part of using a washing machine. Items settle differently each time and sometimes simply end up on the same side. This is not a cause for concern.
Persistent unbalanced loads, or regular violent banging on spin with correctly loaded machines, suggests an underlying fault rather than a loading issue. See our guide on washing machine jumping and banging on spin for more on mechanical causes.
Related Guides
Related Guides
Washing Machine Jumping and Banging on SpinHow to tell whether spin banging is load-related or a mechanical fault – and what to do about each.
Won’t Spin Single Items or Small LoadsWhy washing machines refuse to spin with very small loads – and how to work around it.
Washing Not Getting CleanHow overloading and other loading mistakes affect wash results – and how to fix them.
Drum Capacity ComparisonHow different drum sizes compare in practice – including how a duvet fits into 5kg, 7kg, and 8kg drums.
Frequently Asked Questions
How full should I fill a washing machine?
Around 80% of drum capacity is the general guidance. Pat the dry load down and check there is a clear gap between the top of the load and the top of the drum before closing the door. Remember that many items compress significantly when wet – a drum that looks full when dry will have noticeably less bulk once the cycle starts.
Can under-loading damage a washing machine?
It can, if the machine allows a severely unbalanced load to spin at full speed. Heavy items bunching on one side of the drum create an imbalance that strains the bearings and suspension with every revolution. Most modern machines detect severe imbalance and refuse to reach full spin speed rather than allow this – but this protection is not guaranteed in every circumstance.
Why won’t my machine spin when I wash a bath mat alone?
A single heavy bath mat almost always ends up unbalanced in the drum. Modern machines detect this and refuse to accelerate to full spin speed rather than allowing a violent and potentially damaging spin. The solution is to add other items to the load – old towels or sheets are ideal – to give the machine enough material to distribute weight evenly around the drum.
Is it bad to sometimes have an unbalanced load?
An occasional unbalanced load is normal and not damaging in isolation. Items settle differently each time and sometimes simply end up on the same side regardless of how carefully the machine was loaded. The machine’s out-of-balance detection system should handle most cases. It is only persistent or severe imbalance that indicates either a loading problem or an underlying mechanical fault.
34 Comments
Grouped into 18 comment threads.
6 replies We have a Hotpoint WMBF963PUK 9KG Washing Machine and it's been a nightmare ever since we got it a year ago, thinking it may be just down to the size of the drum but it's a lottery whether it will spin or not even after mixing large loads, adding removing items. Sometimes it will spin but then we can play about with it for a day trying to get one load of washing spun because it's soaking wet when it finishes the wash cycle. Tried all sorts of tests, even found when it's playing up if we try an empty spin cycle it still won't spin? Is this normal, because we've been at loggerheads with our supplier for a while. Our argument is the machine just isn't fit for purpose but they are not willing to expect this. We've had numerous Hotpoint Engineer visits and every time they test it using their diagnostic equipment they say the machine has been reporting multiple "Unbalanced Loads" so there is nothing wrong with the machine. Feel like if you purchase a washing machine it should wash and spin your laundry not waste days trying to wash the families clothes.
4 replies Just bought a brand new Bosch washing machine and several times the machine has failed to spin after a wash, I presumed the out of balance load has activated this is really annoying, I then have switch the machine onto a 12 min spin which seems to be fine so Why when I start the 12 min spin the out of balance does not activate ??? Before I bought the new machine I had another bosh for 8 years with no such problems, is there nothing I can do to prevent this problem ?
Just bought a brand new Bosch washing machine and several times the machine has failed to spin after a wash, I presumed the out of balance load has activated this is really annoying, I then have switch the machine onto a 12 min spin which seems to be fine so Why when I start the 12 min spin the out of balance does not activate ???
Before I bought the new machine I had another bosh for 8 years with no such problems, is there nothing I can do to prevent this problem ?
Likely replying to Gary
Hello Gary. It sounds like it’s because there isn’t enough laundry inside as described here – Washing machine won’t spin just one item or very small load
Likely replying to Gary
Hello Gary. You can’t do anything with the out of balance system. It’s all built into the wash cycle software. It’s possible that the fault you have is nothing to do with out of balance. But, as you seem to have this issue only with a “small load” it seems likely to be related to being out of balance – especially if it has a large drum. It’s possible for a small load to be unable to be balanced during the end of the wash cycle but trying again on the spin programme results in a successful spin.
3 replies I have recently had the engineer out from Hotpoint as my washing came out of the machine soaking wet. He pointed out that I am putting too much in my machine -weight wise. The indicators made by Hotpoint apparently, (although no mention in manual) are for wet items!!!!! i.e. a bath towels wet weight is 2 kg and not as stated in the manual as 250g. Can you clarify as this sounds ludicrous!!!!
I have recently had the engineer out from Hotpoint as my washing came out of the machine soaking wet. He pointed out that I am putting too much in my machine -weight wise. The indicators made by Hotpoint apparently, (although no mention in manual) are for wet items!!!!! i.e. a bath towels wet weight is 2 kg and not as stated in the manual as 250g. Can you clarify as this sounds ludicrous!!!!
Likely replying to Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)
Hi Andy
Thank you for this and your other related articles. Theyve helped me resolve the balancing problems I’ve been having with my new washing machine. It’s a 9kg load model , and even though I wasn’t overloading, i couldn’t understand why it was jumping about. your advice on correctly loading the machine has helped sort this out,
many thanks
1 reply Hi i recently had a new washing machine installed and since i have every wash i have done has resulted in the machine vibrating badly so badly when in the spin cycle the machine literally walks out from under the kitchen bench. The machine is the same size drum as my last one which i never had a single problem like this with it i am not washing any differentl loads with my new one also the feet seem to be level any tips on what i can try
Hi i recently had a new washing machine installed and since i have every wash i have done has resulted in the machine vibrating badly so badly when in the spin cycle the machine literally walks out from under the kitchen bench. The machine is the same size drum as my last one which i never had a single problem like this with it i am not washing any differentl loads with my new one also the feet seem to be level any tips on what i can try
Likely replying to Rob
Hello Rob. If a new washing machine is vibrating excessively right from the start the number one suspect is that the transit packaging has not been removed. This causes the suspension to stop working. Instead of the drum being able to bounce up and down and absorb the movement the whole washing machine moves from side to side and walks. So unless you know for sure that it has been removed properly that is the first thing to check. Checking the instruction book about removing the transit packaging. This is very often not the first thing in an instruction book, which is always ridiculous. I’ve seen removing the transit packaging instructions several pages in. Sometimes they are on a separate leaflet or stuck to the washing machine at the back.
Essentially transit packaging is designed to fix the main outer drum place and stop it bouncing up and down. So a quick way of testing it is to disconnect the washing machine from the mains take off the lid and bounce the drum up and down by hand. It should bounce up and down freely if it is stuck then the transit packaging is still in place.
1 reply What advice can people give on loading a wash load of light bedding - sheets, duvet covers, and pillowcases? Should they be crumpled and loaded together, or folded and placed round the drum, or something else entirely? My manual says to wash one item at a time, but I can only assume that's for heavy blankets and duvets, not sheets (can't imagine washing a single sheet at a time!). It's an 8Kg drum.
What advice can people give on loading a wash load of light bedding – sheets, duvet covers, and pillowcases? Should they be crumpled and loaded together, or folded and placed round the drum, or something else entirely?
My manual says to wash one item at a time, but I can only assume that’s for heavy blankets and duvets, not sheets (can’t imagine washing a single sheet at a time!). It’s an 8Kg drum.
Likely replying to Kevin
Hello Kevin. Yes it must mean for a big heavy thing. Just open them out so they aren’t folded and shove them in. The main concern is if you don’t put enough in and they all clump together on one side of the drum or there is one item that is much heavier (when wet) and that unbalances the load. The actual loading of laundry isn’t so critical as what the load is you are putting in.
1 reply Hi Andy There is a difference in your recommendation for optimal loading and what Ken over at UKWG recommends. He clearly says.... "you should leave an approximate 10cm gap between the top of the laundry to the top of the door opening for the drum, or a handwidth as a rough guide to ensure that your clothes actually get washed and not just wet and refreshed." you say... "Leave a gap of approximately 3 or 4 inches between the top of the laundry and the top of the drum (roughly a hand's width)." The difference is significant...Ken says a hands width from the top of the door opening, whereas you say from top of the drum to the top of the laundry. Ken's recommendation results in 40% of dead space whereas yours leaves 20%. It's true that the clothes shrink when wet, but the washing action would be better if there was more space for the clothes to move around. Please clarify.
Hi Andy
There is a difference in your recommendation for optimal loading and what Ken over at UKWG recommends. He clearly says….
“you should leave an approximate 10cm gap between the top of the laundry to the top of the door opening for the drum, or a handwidth as a rough guide to ensure that your clothes actually get washed and not just wet and refreshed.”
you say…
“Leave a gap of approximately 3 or 4 inches between the top of the laundry and the top of the drum (roughly a hand’s width).”
The difference is significant…Ken says a hands width from the top of the door opening, whereas you say from top of the drum to the top of the laundry. Ken’s recommendation results in 40% of dead space whereas yours leaves 20%.
It’s true that the clothes shrink when wet, but the washing action would be better if there was more space for the clothes to move around.
Please clarify.
Likely replying to Seven
Hi Seven, I read it in an instruction manual from a manufacturer although I can’t recall which one. There needs to be enough space for laundry to fall into when the drum turns. If you did it as I described (without patting down the laundry), when the water goes in this gap will likely double as they shrink down. Depending on fabric it may more than double leaving 10 or more inches of space easily. Once water goes in and the drum starts turning the laundry can shrink to take up half the area.
The important thing is to use judgement as different fabrics shrink differently. The goal is to fill the drum as much as possible (for economy and more even loads) whilst not overfilling it.
0 replies Yes it's a difficult one. The only thing I can suggest is that you try to video the last spin and catch it not actually spinning, and then open the drum and show the laundry that is inside. Even take it out and spread it out so they can see. If you could do that with at least two separate loads then you can at least show the engineer and he can see whether or not the load looked like one that should have spun or not. It's not an exact science, and it's a fair bit of messing about but it might be worth a try. Feel free to send such video to me if you want my opinion first.
Yes it’s a difficult one. The only thing I can suggest is that you try to video the last spin and catch it not actually spinning, and then open the drum and show the laundry that is inside. Even take it out and spread it out so they can see. If you could do that with at least two separate loads then you can at least show the engineer and he can see whether or not the load looked like one that should have spun or not. It’s not an exact science, and it’s a fair bit of messing about but it might be worth a try. Feel free to send such video to me if you want my opinion first.
0 replies Yes Christine, if you can wash towels together but only if you can do a full load. A small load of towels may be unbalanced. You can put towels in with other laundry but if there are only one or two towels they can cause out of balance so try to put a lot in at once. Filling the drum to about 80% capacity should not cause out of balance, out of balanced loads are usually smaller loads or loads with just one or two bulky items mixed in with light ones.
Yes Christine, if you can wash towels together but only if you can do a full load. A small load of towels may be unbalanced. You can put towels in with other laundry but if there are only one or two towels they can cause out of balance so try to put a lot in at once. Filling the drum to about 80% capacity should not cause out of balance, out of balanced loads are usually smaller loads or loads with just one or two bulky items mixed in with light ones.
0 replies Hello, my washing machines only ever last 3-5 years, I usually load the washer depending on colour, I put everything including towels in together, could this be why my machine always bangs on a full load, I always load about 3/4 full, is it best to wash towels separate to everything else or would the towels only load be too heavy.
Hello, my washing machines only ever last 3-5 years, I usually load the washer depending on colour, I put everything including towels in together, could this be why my machine always bangs on a full load, I always load about 3/4 full, is it best to wash towels separate to everything else or would the towels only load be too heavy.
0 replies Yes, that's a fair speculation. I would definitely say if it only happens occasionally for small loads then out of balance detection is the most likely cause. Small loads that don't fill the whole of the drum can't be balanced easily and sometimes not at all. If there was for example 2 or 3 t-shirts and a pair of jeans then the jeans would be extremely heavy and be on one side of the drum. Even if the washing machine could get the other items over on the other side of the drum they are too light to balance the load.
Yes, that’s a fair speculation. I would definitely say if it only happens occasionally for small loads then out of balance detection is the most likely cause. Small loads that don’t fill the whole of the drum can’t be balanced easily and sometimes not at all. If there was for example 2 or 3 t-shirts and a pair of jeans then the jeans would be extremely heavy and be on one side of the drum. Even if the washing machine could get the other items over on the other side of the drum they are too light to balance the load.
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0 replies I wonder if the default RPM for your normal cycle and that of the 12 minute spin are different? Perhaps the 12 minute spin is slower, and hence more tolerant of unbalanced loads. Assuming the machine is well balanced on a firm floor, I'd be tempted to run a load of similarly absorbent, similarly sized items (e.g. pillowcases, shirts, t-shirts, etc.) If it fails on that, then I'd declare a fault.
I wonder if the default RPM for your normal cycle and that of the 12 minute spin are different? Perhaps the 12 minute spin is slower, and hence more tolerant of unbalanced loads.
Assuming the machine is well balanced on a firm floor, I’d be tempted to run a load of similarly absorbent, similarly sized items (e.g. pillowcases, shirts, t-shirts, etc.) If it fails on that, then I’d declare a fault.
0 replies Thanks so much for this info. A new washing machine I have "inherited" is driving me nuts! (ie- Balance issues not spinning). It seems I am destined to have wet washing- is this really the 21st century?! However, thanks to your advice I'll persevere..
Thanks so much for this info. A new washing machine I have “inherited” is driving me nuts! (ie- Balance issues not spinning). It seems I am destined to have wet washing- is this really the 21st century?! However, thanks to your advice I’ll persevere..
0 replies Good advice, it's nice to find "tips" for basic everyday tasks that people are supposed to be born with the knowledge of. And it often turns out that people are doing it wrong, because they can't be bothered to check. Try advising older folk who've done things one way their whole lives but are used to equipment made from 3 tonnes of cast iron. I'm in the same situation as Bryan, who commented above... trying to convince my old dear how to correctly load the drum (her machine sounds like a demolition hammer when it spins) but she won't have it: she'd rather blame the "stupid modern machines" whenever things go wrong! (Although she might have a point about that!)
Good advice, it’s nice to find “tips” for basic everyday tasks that people are supposed to be born with the knowledge of. And it often turns out that people are doing it wrong, because they can’t be bothered to check. Try advising older folk who’ve done things one way their whole lives but are used to equipment made from 3 tonnes of cast iron. I’m in the same situation as Bryan, who commented above… trying to convince my old dear how to correctly load the drum (her machine sounds like a demolition hammer when it spins) but she won’t have it: she’d rather blame the “stupid modern machines” whenever things go wrong! (Although she might have a point about that!)
0 replies Your recommendation of a hands width from the top of the drum certainly works for economy because it allows for more clothes to be used in the wash. I'm currently trying to size a machine for a 2 person household doing around 5 kg (dry weight) weekly per person or around 4 washes per week for both of us. Which size drum to go for ? 6kg or 7kg. 6kg volume around 42 litres. 7kg around 56 litres. I went out and measured the drums in the shop for various makes and find those to be the general drum volumes. From the top of the door opening to the top of the drum is around a hands width of 10cm. Your method means one can fill the drum to the top of the door opening and still have adequate clearance. The difficulty with filling but not overloading is how heavy the clothes become when wet. Thicker cottons become very heavy. This leads to the thought whether more stress will be placed on bearings, leading to earlier failure. A side issue of sealed outer tubs complicates matters as i understand a bearing replacement is difficult if not impossible to perform on a sealed tub as opposed to ones that can be split. Looking around the spares websites i find the 6kg models don't have tub components listed or just a full tub nor bearings whereas the 7kg models have front & rear tubs listed. Meaning a bearing replacement is easier therefore more desirable long term than one that requires a write-off because repair charges are higher. The problem with a bigger drum and less clothes is under loading, this means problematic spins or a machine that will spin slower to save itself from out of balance errors as you mention in another article. A 6kg washer is less likely to be under filled than a 7kg. Which means i get a sealed drum and a writeoff in 5 years instead of a repair and more use long term. Difficult position to be in :(
Your recommendation of a hands width from the top of the drum certainly works for economy because it allows for more clothes to be used in the wash. I’m currently trying to size a machine for a 2 person household doing around 5 kg (dry weight) weekly per person or around 4 washes per week for both of us. Which size drum to go for ? 6kg or 7kg.
6kg volume around 42 litres. 7kg around 56 litres. I went out and measured the drums in the shop for various makes and find those to be the general drum volumes. From the top of the door opening to the top of the drum is around a hands width of 10cm. Your method means one can fill the drum to the top of the door opening and still have adequate clearance.
The difficulty with filling but not overloading is how heavy the clothes become when wet. Thicker cottons become very heavy. This leads to the thought whether more stress will be placed on bearings, leading to earlier failure. A side issue of sealed outer tubs complicates matters as i understand a bearing replacement is difficult if not impossible to perform on a sealed tub as opposed to ones that can be split. Looking around the spares websites i find the 6kg models don’t have tub components listed or just a full tub nor bearings whereas the 7kg models have front & rear tubs listed. Meaning a bearing replacement is easier therefore more desirable long term than one that requires a write-off because repair charges are higher.
The problem with a bigger drum and less clothes is under loading, this means problematic spins or a machine that will spin slower to save itself from out of balance errors as you mention in another article. A 6kg washer is less likely to be under filled than a 7kg. Which means i get a sealed drum and a writeoff in 5 years instead of a repair and more use long term.
Difficult position to be in :(
0 replies Thanks. I don't know the machine but generally a level concrete floor is best. However, in all my 30 years repairing I never saw any washing machine that had a fault caused by being placed on the wrong surface. Very heavy machines don't like springy floors though. Corners are good places as they are more stable and less springy there. If there are any specific, important considerations to the type of floor a washer should be installed on it will be in the instruction book.
Thanks. I don’t know the machine but generally a level concrete floor is best. However, in all my 30 years repairing I never saw any washing machine that had a fault caused by being placed on the wrong surface. Very heavy machines don’t like springy floors though. Corners are good places as they are more stable and less springy there. If there are any specific, important considerations to the type of floor a washer should be installed on it will be in the instruction book.
0 replies Please what is the best surface to insall the authomatic haier thermocool washing machine on? Please reply asap.. Very insightful article... Thanks alot
Please what is the best surface to insall the authomatic haier thermocool washing machine on? Please reply asap..
Very insightful article… Thanks alot
0 replies :) tell her new ones are rubbish and can't cope with overloading like the old ones.
:) tell her new ones are rubbish and can’t cope with overloading like the old ones.
0 replies thanks for the advice I'm trin to explain to my mom if u overload a washer it doesn't wrk properly an I can't get it through to her she says I been washen cloths longer than u I said yes but not properly she don't get it lol
thanks for the advice I’m trin to explain to my mom if u overload a washer it doesn’t wrk properly an I can’t get it through to her she says I been washen cloths longer than u I said yes but not properly she don’t get it lol
We have a Hotpoint WMBF963PUK 9KG Washing Machine and it’s been a nightmare ever since we got it a year ago, thinking it may be just down to the size of the drum but it’s a lottery whether it will spin or not even after mixing large loads, adding removing items. Sometimes it will spin but then we can play about with it for a day trying to get one load of washing spun because it’s soaking wet when it finishes the wash cycle. Tried all sorts of tests, even found when it’s playing up if we try an empty spin cycle it still won’t spin? Is this normal, because we’ve been at loggerheads with our supplier for a while. Our argument is the machine just isn’t fit for purpose but they are not willing to expect this. We’ve had numerous Hotpoint Engineer visits and every time they test it using their diagnostic equipment they say the machine has been reporting multiple “Unbalanced Loads” so there is nothing wrong with the machine.
Feel like if you purchase a washing machine it should wash and spin your laundry not waste days trying to wash the families clothes.
Likely replying to Martin
Hello Martin. Personally I think a 9 kg washing machine drum capacity is far too big for most people. I would only get such a large capacity washing machine if I had excessive loads of washing to do such as washing football kit, or maybe washing for a family of five or six. The problem with the extra-large drums is that many people buy them because they like the idea have having the extra capacity for washing the odd large item but mostly just wash as normal. The problem is that a normal average wash load is only about 4 to 5 kg which is too small for such a large drum. I would expect a lot of problems with under loading, which causes unbalanced loads. So unless there is a fault on your washing machine, which obviously I can’t rule out you need to try and fill it as much as possible. The idea of a large capacity drum is to save money by washing twice as much as you would normally do therefore cutting its use in half. This would need adjustments to washing habits and of course it can be quite impractical for many people who need certain items washing and can’t just wait until you have a massive load.
This problem is described in more detail on my article here – washing machine won’t spin small loads
Likely replying to Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)
Thanks Andy. I’m starting to believe that the 9Kg is the issue but what I don’t understand is if we test it with an empty drum and it doesn’t spin, wouldn’t that suggest there is a fault? Just so you know, we have tried full loads and still having the issue where 7/10 times it doesn’t spin.
Likely replying to Martin
Hello Martin. Yes there is always a chance that there is an intermittent fault on the washing machine. I just got the strong impression from your description that the problem was related to the type of load that you had in the drum. Also the apparent reports of constant out of balance loads that the engineer found ties in with that theory. However, if it doesn’t spin when there is no laundry in at all then unless by any chance the washing machine is clever enough to notice that there is no laundry in and therefore doesn’t waste its time spinning then that would be a different fault.
If a load is not spinning because it is out of balance (or more accurately can’t be balanced) you should find that the drum turns slowly for a few minutes trying to settle the laundry into a balanced state, and when when it finds that it can’t it will often stop and try again. This process can go on and on until it times out. Unfortunately a lot of washing machines don’t have the decency to report to customers that the laundry didn’t spin because it couldn’t balance it. A ridiculous amount of them will just give up and stop, leaving the laundry wet through, which is completely unnecessary.
You do need to try and decide in your own mind if the fault is related to the load or not. And using the advice in this and the other article I linked to try to ensure that you put good sized loads in and particularly avoid putting one or two very heavy items like jeans or towels and sheets etc with a lot of lighter items. If you try to fill the drum at the very least over half capacity and preferably up to about 80% you shouldn’t really have anything other than the odd occasion when it doesn’t spin due to an uneven load.
Likely replying to Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)
Thanks Andy, this is all really useful information and most of it we’ve already tried or am starting believe that there is a fault, it’s more the no washing in the drum and it doesn’t spin that concerns me. When I say it doesn’t spin, I mean it never get’s up to the expected spin speed it just spins slowly like it’s trying to readjust a none existant load, here is a video we took that demonstrates what happens – https://twitter.com/Lankymart/status/1270363816229027841?s=20. To me what is shown there doesn’t seem right, but Hotpoint will not conceded there is a fault because when they run there diagnostic equipment against it, the drum spins up to 1600 rpm straight away. My issue with that test is it’s a controlled test in the software, is that the same as running functions from the machine itself?
Likely replying to Martin
Hello Martin. Do you know for certain that it has previously spun without any laundry in?
Likely replying to Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)
Hi Andy. Yes. We have had it spin before using the Spin cycle without any laundry in the drum but if for whatever reason it doesn’t spin with a full load we usually try removing heavy items in a bid to get it to spin but failing that we try no laundry and it’s usually then that it just won’t spin. Case in point, yesterday it ran a duvet cover in it, it worked fine and span. My wife then tried to run a full wash load and it would not spin. She tried the Spin cycle three times and give up but came back to it this morning without adjusting the load ran it again and it span. It’s the intermittant behaviour that makes me think there is a fault.