Whitegoods Help article

How do you blank off the old hot water tap?

Hot tap for washing machine
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Quick Answer

Most modern washing machines are cold-fill only, leaving a redundant hot water tap and pipework behind. Leaving it completely unused is the most common approach, but stagnant water in unused pipework can allow bacteria to develop over time. There are four options, each with different levels of effort and risk mitigation. The right choice depends on your plumbing setup and how concerned you are about dead-leg bacteria.

For the past two decades, almost all washing machines sold in the UK have been cold-fill only. If your plumbing has a hot tap that was previously used for the washing machine, that tap and the pipework leading to it may now be sitting permanently unused.

Your Four Options

  1. Leave everything as it is and do nothing.

    The most common approach – simply stop using the hot tap and leave the tap and pipework in place. For most households this is probably fine in practice, particularly where the dead-leg run of pipework is very short. The concern is that stagnant water in unused pipework can under certain conditions allow bacteria to develop. See the health risk section below for more detail on when this actually matters.

  2. Fit a blanking cap to the tap outlet.

    If leaving the tap in place but no longer connected to anything, fitting a 3/4 inch (approximately 19mm) blanking cap to the tap outlet prevents the risk of water escaping if the tap is accidentally turned. This is particularly worth doing if the tap is inside a cupboard with easy-to-catch lever handles. Blanking caps are available from any plumbers merchant or DIY store and should come with a rubber seal. This option does not address the stagnant water issue – it only prevents accidental discharge from the open tap.

  3. Remove the tap and dead-leg pipework entirely.

    The most thorough option. A plumber removes the tap and all pipework that branches off from the main supply specifically to serve it. This eliminates the stagnant water concern completely and tidies up the plumbing. It requires a plumber and involves some disruption, but permanently resolves the issue for any household genuinely concerned about bacteria in dead pipework.

  4. Leave the hose connected and flush regularly.

    Leave the hot fill hose connected to the hot tap but stored out of the way. On a regular basis – monthly is a reasonable frequency – run the hot tap until genuinely hot water flows through it (around 60 degrees). This flushes stagnant water from the dead leg, kills off any bacteria, and replaces the standing water with fresh. The water can be directed into a bucket, sink, or the washing machine’s standpipe. This option requires no plumber, retains the tap for possible future use, and addresses the bacteria concern without permanent removal. It does require the tap to be reasonably accessible.

Is the Bacteria Risk Actually Serious?

Stagnant water in unused pipework – known as a dead leg – creates conditions where bacteria including Legionella can potentially develop. This is a genuine concern in building regulations and commercial plumbing standards, which is why dead legs are generally discouraged in any water installation.

For domestic households with short runs of unused pipework, the risk is generally considered low but not zero. The actual risk level depends on the length of the dead leg, the material of the pipework, the ambient temperature, and how long the water has been standing. A very short run of pipe from a main that carries active flow is lower risk than a long, isolated dead leg in a warm utility space.

Assess the risk for your specific situation

For a full explanation of the health risk and how to assess it for your specific situation, see our companion article on potential health risks from an unused washing machine hot water tap. Understanding the risk properly allows a more informed decision about which of the four options above is appropriate for your household.

How Long to Flush For

If flushing is the chosen approach, run the hot tap until the water emerging is genuinely hot – at least 60 degrees – rather than simply running for a fixed time. The time needed depends on the length of the dead leg and how quickly hot water from the boiler reaches the tap. In most domestic situations, 30 seconds to 2 minutes of hot flow is sufficient to flush a short dead leg completely. Some guidance suggests flushing weekly rather than monthly; the appropriate frequency depends on the length and configuration of the unused pipework.


Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just leave the old hot water tap disconnected and do nothing?

For most households with short dead-leg pipework, this is probably fine in practice. The concern is that stagnant water in unused pipework can under certain conditions allow bacteria including Legionella to develop. The actual risk depends on the length of the dead leg, ambient temperature, and how long water has been standing. Read the companion article on potential health risks to make an informed decision for your specific situation.

What size blanking cap do I need for the hot tap?

You need a 3/4 inch (approximately 19mm) blanking cap. These are available from plumbers merchants and most DIY stores. The cap should include a rubber seal – if not, the seal from the old hot water hose connection may fit.

How often should I flush the unused hot tap to prevent bacteria?

Monthly is a practical frequency for most domestic situations. The important thing is to run the tap until genuinely hot water flows – at least 60 degrees – rather than running for a fixed time. Some guidance recommends weekly flushing for longer dead legs or in warmer environments. The water can be directed to a bucket, sink, or the washing machine’s standpipe.

Last reviewed: April 2026.

Discussion

121 Comments

Grouped into 96 comment threads.

Washerhelp 5 replies Barbara: If your washing machine has two valves it should either be hot and cold fill, or should have come with a y-piece connector to connect both up to the cold tap if it's a cold fill only machine. If it has 2 water valves I would expect it needs them both connecting up. What does it say in the instruction book?

Barbara: If your washing machine has two valves it should either be hot and cold fill, or should have come with a y-piece connector to connect both up to the cold tap if it’s a cold fill only machine. If it has 2 water valves I would expect it needs them both connecting up. What does it say in the instruction book?

Linda

Likely replying to Washerhelp

dear Washerhelp
I have bought and fitted the blanking cap on the end of the hot pipe to my new washer and tightened it up with pliers, but there is still a little leak. I am nervous of being too fierce with the pliers in case I twist/damage the pipe itself and end up with a bigger plumber type problem – at the weekend! The tap does not seem to turn off fully with the red lever. Should I try PTFE tape? Any suggestions would be gratefully received!

Washerhelp

Is there a rubber seal with the blanking cap? There should be one. Also, unscrew the red lever and use pliers to turn off the tap fully.

Linda

Many thanks for the advice, but I think I have stopped the drip. I unscrewed the blanking cap (which did have a washer) and put in extra washer as well (one from hose from old washer) and also wrapped PTFE tape around the thread before screwing back on. No drips 24hrs later! However if a problem develops I will try your tip about unscrewing the red lever.

Anonymous

Likely replying to Washerhelp

Washerhelp, there’s not many of you in a dozen, but luckily for me you are!

Knew how to cap off the hot water for my new washing machine. However, looks like the isolation valve for the cold water supply was not working and this is the reason why couldn’t put on the washing machine when heating water – as it used it all up. Could you give us a few simple tips on replacing the isolation valve for the cold water feed before I connect up the new machine. Presume I need to turn off cold water supply in attic and drain the system??

Thanks in advance.
Michael

Washerhelp

The cold water should be mains fed so it should just be a matter of turning off the main stop tab, which is almost always in the kitchen, often under the sink. To drain the hot system you would also just turn the stop tap off and run the hot water until it runs dry.

Liz sugden 2 replies Need a blanking cap the site mentioned doesn't seem to be there any more any recommendations - help

Need a blanking cap the site mentioned doesn’t seem to be there any more any recommendations – help

Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

Likely replying to Liz sugden

Hello Liz. I describe what you need in the first couple of paragraphs. If you search for, “3/4 Brass blanking cap and washer” on Google you should find plenty of places that sell them.

John Smith

Likely replying to Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

Dear Andy,
I have been trying to get onto the website E-lectricalshop.co.uk to order a blanking cap for old hot tap when connecting a cold fill only washing machine but when I click on “go to website” the page comes up saying “we’re closing down Talk Talk webspace”. Then when I click on “continue to browse” I get the message “NOT FOUND the requested URL/jmistone was not found on this server”.
I notice the comments posted on your website are all from 2010. Can this mean E-lectricalshop website no longer exist?
Any advice regarding this problem would be most welcome including any other website where I can get a suitable blanking cap from.
Thanking you for your help,
Regards,
John Smithb

caroline 2 replies Hi Andy, Currys refused to fit my new washing machine friday, my 12+ yr old Hotpoint finally passed on :( but he had cold & hot, new one is just cold, but they refused to fit because I have NO taps on my pipes at all, the words he used were 'broken off'??? hot & cold hoses were screwed on! I assumed that was the norm. Plumbers are quoting me 70 quid! This is a housing assosiation place, am I right that it's their responsibility to fit taps? Or is it easy for me to do myself? Any advice gratefully received. Damsel in distress! x

Hi Andy, Currys refused to fit my new washing machine friday, my 12+ yr old Hotpoint finally passed on :( but he had cold & hot, new one is just cold, but they refused to fit because I have NO taps on my pipes at all, the words he used were ‘broken off’??? hot & cold hoses were screwed on! I assumed that was the norm. Plumbers are quoting me 70 quid!
This is a housing assosiation place, am I right that it’s their responsibility to fit taps? Or is it easy for me to do myself?
Any advice gratefully received.
Damsel in distress! x

Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg)

Likely replying to caroline

Hello Caroline. Unfortunately these retailers claim to “install” a washing machine but if there’s a single slight issue the “installers” refuse to do it. They will usually only screw the hose on and connect the drain hose as long as it’s dead easy to do. If there’s any awkwardness or difficulty they refuse. However, if there were no taps, that’s pretty rare and unusual. I can’t remember coming across such a thing. If there were no taps it means to disconnect the hoses you’d have to turn off the mains water, then drain all the hot water from the system to get the hot hose off. In such circumstances I can understand them saying they can’t do that. The terms and conditions usually say they will connect as long as it’s straight forward.

If there are taps, and they just didn’t look properly I’d be inclined to complain and get them back. I have two articles on installing a washing machine which you should read.

How to install washing machine

Install washing drain hose

caroline

Awww thank you for replying hun, I had no joy with the landlord, they don’t get involved in washing machines apparently, but they said taps aren’t essential so I went & got a cap this morning, but it still leaked, so I have a plumber coming over soon as I now have the water off. He’s charging 50 quid to cut pipe back a tad, put tap on & totally blank the hot off x

ava fest 1 reply the seal at the end of the hot water tap hose that is unconnected does that stop leaking if the hot water is turned on

the seal at the end of the hot water tap hose that is unconnected does that stop leaking if the hot water is turned on

Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

Hello Ava. In order to stop any leaking, a blanking cap with a seal must be fitted as described in my article. In this scenario the hot water hose is just removed and is no longer needed. If the hose still connected to the old hot water tap then the only thing that would stop water coming out if the tap somehow started passing water through would be if the end of the hose was screwed onto some sort of dead-end.

Ian James 1 reply My mum has an old Servis M3001 washing machine and during the process of fixing a leaky hot tap valve I noticed that the machine has like a small red blanking cap fitted where the hot hose used to connect to the machine. The hose will still connect to the machine but it looks like this stops any hot water going in. Is this a common thing, I've never seen this before? I can't find the old manual to verify whether the machine is cold fill only.

My mum has an old Servis M3001 washing machine and during the process of fixing a leaky hot tap valve I noticed that the machine has like a small red blanking cap fitted where the hot hose used to connect to the machine. The hose will still connect to the machine but it looks like this stops any hot water going in. Is this a common thing, I’ve never seen this before? I can’t find the old manual to verify whether the machine is cold fill only.

Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

Likely replying to Ian James

Ian, if it has two water valves it is definitely a hot and cold fill washing machine. Cold fill washing machines will only have one valve.

Looking at Spares4Appliances there is definitely a hot water valve listed for that model – washing machine water valves

I can also see there is a hot water valve closing cap listed too. I’ve never come across this and I’m surprised that they would make a washing machine designed to use hot and cold water but then create a part to blank off the hot valve. However, if the washing machine is working ok on all the wash cycles I wouldn’t change anything.

shaun 1 reply Appreciate the advice re 1) blanking cap for hot water supply 2) and potential unhealthy dead water in old pipework run to washer. The remedy being to remove the surplus piping relating to the stagnant stretch. Would it not be possible reuse that hot water feed into the adjacent hot water outlet just to move the water,. You would have thought manufacturers would have been aware of the potential health issues of moving to a cold fill or just wanted to offer choice & options. and therefore have an optional hot water inlet to obviate the H&S problem, to drain or utilise an amount of water from the stagnant water automatically every so often.via some controller options. I always suspect some like going in circles

Appreciate the advice re 1) blanking cap for hot water supply 2) and potential unhealthy dead water in old pipework run to washer.

The remedy being to remove the surplus piping relating to the stagnant stretch.

Would it not be possible reuse that hot water feed into the adjacent hot water outlet just to move the water,.

You would have thought manufacturers would have been aware of the potential health issues of moving to a cold fill or just wanted to offer choice & options.

and therefore have an optional hot water inlet to obviate the H&S problem, to drain or utilise an amount of water from the stagnant water automatically every so often.via some controller options.

I always suspect some like going in circles

Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

Likely replying to shaun

Hello Shaun. You make a very good point about manufacturers, they presumably had no idea that blanking off the hot water tap could lead to dangerous bacteria. To be fair, I only learnt about it myself several months back.

I have considered joining my hot and cold water hoses together using a y-piece connector which would regularly use the hot water and stop it going stagnant. The problem with this approach though is that modern washing machines and detergents are designed to work from cold water. In many cases though there wouldn’t be much hot water going into the machine because they take a while to run hot (unless supplied via a combi boiler close to the machine) and they don;t take much water in on wash. However, the hot tap would need to be turned off after the initial wash fill otherwise it would use a lot of hot water on rinses.

Andy Trigg 1 reply I have now added a complete new section on the main article above. It isn't 100% conclusive yet but gives a good idea of this issue. Keep an eye out for further updates as I continue my research.

I have now added a complete new section on the main article above. It isn’t 100% conclusive yet but gives a good idea of this issue. Keep an eye out for further updates as I continue my research.

Colin Lewis

Andy

Did you manage to resolve the question regarding a possible ‘dead leg’ when installing a new washing machine?

Regards

Colin Lewis

Andy Trigg 1 reply Hi Collin. Thank you for pointing this out. I don't think even most plumbers know this or at least don't take much notice of it. I myself have a long run of old hot water pipework running from my kitchen, across to a free-standing garage, and a few feet inside to my washing machine, which is cold fill only. It's something I never thought about, but once pointed out it's obvious that this 20 feet of pipework will contain trapped water which will never flow anywhere. I am still investigating and researching, and waiting for a reply to an email I sent somewhere before deciding how serious a threat this is. I will certainly add a section on my main article advising that ideally all of the redundant pipework should be removed. How strongly I advise this depends on how potentially serious the issue actually is, or whether it's just a theoretical thing that is unlikely to cause any issues except in extreme freaky circumstances. One of the problems with removing all the plumbing of course is that a plumber will need to be employed, which won't be cheap. Another problem is people may be reluctant to remove the pipework in case it is ever needed again in the future. The latter may be unlikely, but personally, I wouldn't be at all surprised if hot and cold fill washing machines make a return on environmental grounds. I have a full article on cold fill washing machines where I conclude that cold fill only washing machines are actually bad for the environment because they are only "better"for the average person whereas many tens of thousands of people would benefit from having the hot water supply reinstated.

Hi Collin. Thank you for pointing this out. I don’t think even most plumbers know this or at least don’t take much notice of it. I myself have a long run of old hot water pipework running from my kitchen, across to a free-standing garage, and a few feet inside to my washing machine, which is cold fill only.

It’s something I never thought about, but once pointed out it’s obvious that this 20 feet of pipework will contain trapped water which will never flow anywhere. I am still investigating and researching, and waiting for a reply to an email I sent somewhere before deciding how serious a threat this is. I will certainly add a section on my main article advising that ideally all of the redundant pipework should be removed. How strongly I advise this depends on how potentially serious the issue actually is, or whether it’s just a theoretical thing that is unlikely to cause any issues except in extreme freaky circumstances.

One of the problems with removing all the plumbing of course is that a plumber will need to be employed, which won’t be cheap. Another problem is people may be reluctant to remove the pipework in case it is ever needed again in the future. The latter may be unlikely, but personally, I wouldn’t be at all surprised if hot and cold fill washing machines make a return on environmental grounds. I have a full article on cold fill washing machines where I conclude that cold fill only washing machines are actually bad for the environment because they are only “better”for the average person whereas many tens of thousands of people would benefit from having the hot water supply reinstated.

Colin Lewis

Thanks Andy. As I mentioned, I am not an expert but a length of pipe filled with stagnant water doesn’t, somehow, seem correct. I am about to buy a new washing machine and I thought I would check before doing so. Please let me know what you find out.

Regards

Colin

Colin Lewis 1 reply I don't have any expertise other than it is my understanding that "dead legs" ie lengths of pipe with standing water that are not in use, should be removed Colin Lewis

I don’t have any expertise other than it is my understanding that “dead legs” ie lengths of pipe with standing water that are not in use, should be removed

Colin Lewis

Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

Likely replying to Colin Lewis

Hello Colin, I sent an email to the site I now link to in my main article but didn’t get a reply. I’ve sent another directly to the guy mentioned in that article now. Basically my amended advice in my article points out the issue and that best practice has got to be to eliminate all the unneeded pipework but I can’t see many people paying a plumber to do that without more evidence it’s a genuinely serious concern in the UK.

Colin Lewis 1 reply Doesn't blanking off the hot water pipe at the valve create a "dead leg" allowing bacteria to develop? Colin Lewis

Doesn’t blanking off the hot water pipe at the valve create a “dead leg” allowing bacteria to develop?

Colin Lewis

Andy Trigg

Likely replying to Colin Lewis

Hi Colin, thanks for that. I’ve never heard of it so I’m researching it to see if I need to update my advice. If you have any expertise on the subject please pass it on.

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