Calibrate your dishwasher for multi-tab detergent
Most dishwashers need to be told when multi-tab (all-in-one) detergent is being used. Without this calibration, the machine continues dispensing rinse aid unnecessarily, causing streaks on glassware, and keeps alerting for salt and rinse aid. Check the instruction manual for the specific procedure for your model.
Dishwashers are designed to work with three separate components: detergent, salt, and rinse aid. Multi-tab (all-in-one) detergent tablets claim to replace all three, but for them to work correctly most dishwashers need to be told they are being used. This is called calibrating for multi-tab detergent.
Why Does the Dishwasher Need to Be Calibrated?
Without calibration, the dishwasher continues to operate as if separate salt and rinse aid are being used. This causes several problems:
- The rinse aid dispenser continues to release rinse aid from the reservoir – even if the multi-tab tablet already includes it. Too much rinse aid can cause white sticky streaks on dishes, or a bluish film on glassware and cutlery.
- The dishwasher continues to alert the user to add more salt or rinse aid, even when this is no longer necessary.
- Some dishwashers adjust wash cycle times when multi-tab mode is enabled – typically shortening certain cycles by around 10 minutes – which cannot happen without calibration.
Calibrating the dishwasher for multi-tab use stops rinse aid from being dispensed unnecessarily, silences the salt and rinse aid alerts, and enables any cycle time adjustments the manufacturer has built in for this detergent type.
If ordinary detergent is ever needed again in future, the calibration can be reversed – but bear in mind that if the rinse aid reservoir has been empty for a while it will need refilling before reverting to standard use.
Is Multi-Tab Detergent Worth Using?
Independent consumer testing by Which? has found considerable variation in multi-tab detergent performance. Some are among the top-rated dishwasher detergents tested, while others have performed poorly enough to be rated as Don’t Buy products. Quality varies significantly between brands and price points. To find out which multi-tab detergents perform best, see: full dishwasher detergent test results at Which?
How to Calibrate a Dishwasher for Multi-Tab Detergent
The process varies by brand and model. Some dishwashers have a dedicated option button or clearly labelled setting for multi-tab detergent. Others require a specific button combination to enter a programming mode. The instruction manual is the definitive guide.
Not all dishwashers have this function, particularly older models. If the manual is not available, it can often be downloaded from the manufacturer’s website. Links to manufacturer manual download pages are available at: instruction manuals page. Alternatively, searching online for “multi-tab function” together with the dishwasher brand and model number will often find the relevant information.
What If Dishes Are Still Not Drying Properly With Multi-Tab Tablets?
Multi-tab detergent is designed to dry dishes adequately without separate rinse aid. However, results vary by tablet brand and quality, and by local water hardness. If dishes are consistently coming out wet or marked, two options are worth trying in order:
-
Try a higher quality multi-tab tablet. Performance differences between brands are significant. Switching to a better-rated tablet often resolves the issue without needing to add rinse aid.
-
Add a small amount of rinse aid. Fill the rinse aid compartment and set the dosage dial to the minimum position (typically 1 or 2). This supplements the tablet without adding a full rinse aid dose alongside it.
Related dishwasher guides
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do I need to calibrate my dishwasher for multi-tab detergent?
Without calibration, the dishwasher continues to dispense rinse aid from its reservoir even though the tablet already contains it. Too much rinse aid causes white streaks or a bluish film on glassware. The machine will also continue prompting for more salt and rinse aid unnecessarily. Calibrating tells the dishwasher to stop these actions and may also shorten certain wash cycle times.
How do I find the multi-tab setting on my dishwasher?
Check the instruction manual first – the procedure varies significantly between brands and models. Some dishwashers have a dedicated button or setting; others require a specific button sequence to enter programming mode. If the manual is unavailable, check the manufacturer’s website for a downloadable version, or search online for “multi-tab function” together with the brand and model number.
My dishwasher doesn’t have a multi-tab setting – does this matter?
Not all dishwashers, particularly older models, have a multi-tab calibration function. In this case, the dishwasher will continue to operate normally. If excess rinse aid causes streaking on dishes, the rinse aid dispenser can be turned down to the minimum setting or left empty. The salt alerts will continue, but can be ignored if multi-tab tablets are being used and the water is not particularly hard.
My dishes still come out wet even with multi-tab tablets – what should I do?
First, try a different brand of multi-tab tablet – drying performance varies considerably between products. If the problem persists, add a small amount of rinse aid to the rinse aid compartment and set the dosage dial to the minimum position. This supplements the tablet’s rinse aid without adding a full dose.
Limescale In Washing Machines
The best way to prevent limescale in a washing machine is to use a good quality detergent at the correct dose for your water hardness. Using too little detergent in a hard water area is the most common cause of limescale build-up. Descaling products treat existing scale but cannot substitute for correct detergent use, and may be ineffective if the build-up is already severe.
Limescale affects washing machines in hard water areas across the UK. Understanding how it forms, where it causes damage, and how to prevent it saves money on repairs and extends the life of the appliance.
What Is Hard Water?
Hard water contains dissolved minerals – primarily calcium and magnesium salts – picked up as water passes through rock and soil before entering the water supply. How hard or soft the water is depends on the geology of the area. Around 60% of UK homes are in hard water areas, concentrated mainly in the south and east of England.
Soft water, conversely, has a much lower mineral content and causes far less limescale. You can find out the hardness of your water supply by contacting your water company – most will provide this information freely and some offer water hardness test kits on request.
How to Tell If You Have Hard Water
The signs of hard water are usually visible elsewhere in the home before limescale becomes a problem inside appliances. Limescale deposits inside a kettle, white staining around taps and sinks, and scale on shower heads and shower screens are all reliable indicators of a hard water supply.
If your kettle regularly develops a white or grey crust on the element, your water is hard enough to cause problems inside a washing machine over time. Using the correct detergent dosage for your water hardness is the most effective preventive step.
How Does Limescale Affect a Washing Machine?
The heating element is the most vulnerable component. Limescale acts as an insulator, causing the element to run hotter than it is designed to – which accelerates wear and leads to premature failure. A heavily scaled element is also less efficient at heating water, which increases electricity consumption and extends cycle times.
Beyond the element, limescale accumulates throughout the machine – on internal hoses, drum surfaces, seals, and valves. Scale deposits on rubber seals and hoses accelerate deterioration, shortening their lifespan and increasing the risk of leaks. Valves coated in scale can stick or fail to open and close correctly.
Heating ElementScale acts as an insulator, causing overheating and premature element failure. Also reduces heating efficiency and increases energy use.
Hoses and SealsLimescale deposits accelerate the deterioration of rubber hoses and door seals, increasing the risk of leaks over time.
ValvesScale build-up on inlet and pressure valves can cause them to stick or fail to operate correctly, leading to filling or water level faults.
LaundryWashing in hard water without adequate detergent can damage fabric fibres over time, shortening the lifespan of clothing and textiles.
The Best Way to Prevent Limescale
Modern washing machine detergents contain water-softening agents specifically designed to counteract hard water and prevent limescale. Used at the correct dosage, a good quality detergent provides effective protection without the need for additional products.
The critical detail is dosage. Detergent packaging specifies different amounts for soft, medium, and hard water – a distinction many people ignore. In a hard water area, using the soft water dose means the water-softening agents are insufficient for the mineral content of the supply, and limescale begins to build up despite the use of detergent.
Check the label on your detergent and adjust the dose to match your water hardness. For most households in hard water areas, this simple change is the most effective preventive measure available. For guidance on choosing the right detergent type, see our guide on which is the best type of washing machine detergent.
Do Anti-Limescale Products Actually Work?
Products such as dedicated washing machine descalers can help manage existing limescale, particularly as a periodic treatment. However, they address the symptom rather than the cause. If the root issue is consistently using too little detergent for the water hardness, descaling products will need to be used repeatedly without ever resolving the underlying problem.
For a detailed look at whether specific anti-limescale additives are worth buying, see our guide on whether Calgon is worth using.
Is Hard Water Bad for You?
Hard water is harmful to appliances but not to people. The calcium and magnesium dissolved in hard water are beneficial minerals, and research has suggested a link between hard water consumption and lower cardiovascular disease rates. One consideration when fitting a whole-house water softener is that it removes these minerals from the drinking water supply – a trade-off worth being aware of.
If you are considering connecting a softened water supply to your washing machine, see our guide on connecting a washing machine to a softened water supply for what manufacturers say about its effects.
Limescale Caused a Fault?
If limescale has damaged the heating element or caused another fault, Whitegoods Help can help with a repair or spare part.
Related Guides
Is Calgon Worth Using?A detailed look at anti-limescale additives – whether they work, when they are useful, and whether you actually need them.
Washing Machine Smells, Grease and MouldHow limescale and detergent residue contribute to bad smells inside washing machines – and how to prevent and clear them.
Which Is the Best Type of Washing Machine Detergent?Powder, liquid, or capsule – which detergent type is most effective and which works best in hard water areas.
Connecting to a Softened Water SupplyWhat manufacturers say about using softened water in a washing machine and whether it affects components or wash results.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does limescale damage a washing machine?
The heating element is most vulnerable – limescale acts as an insulator, causing the element to overheat internally and fail prematurely. It also reduces heating efficiency, increasing energy use. Beyond the element, scale accumulates on hoses, seals, drum surfaces, and valves, accelerating deterioration and increasing the risk of leaks and component failures over time.
How do I prevent limescale in my washing machine?
Use a good quality detergent at the correct dosage for your water hardness. Detergent contains water-softening agents that prevent limescale when used in the right amount. In hard water areas, this means using a higher dose than the minimum shown on the packaging. Most limescale problems are caused by consistently under-dosing detergent.
How do I know if I have hard water?
The most visible signs are limescale inside a kettle, white or grey staining around taps and sinks, and scale on shower heads. Around 60% of UK homes have hard water, concentrated mainly in the south and east of England. Your water company can confirm the hardness level for your area.
Do I need to use Calgon or a descaling product?
Not necessarily. If you are using a good quality detergent at the correct dosage for your water hardness, you should not need additional anti-limescale products. Descaling products are useful as a periodic treatment if scale has already built up, but they do not address the cause if the underlying issue is insufficient detergent dosage.
Is hard water harmful to people?
No – the minerals in hard water are not harmful to health. The calcium and magnesium dissolved in hard water are beneficial, and some research suggests a link between hard water consumption and lower rates of cardiovascular disease. The drawback of whole-house water softeners is that they remove these minerals from the drinking water supply.
Is Calgon Worth Using?
If you use a good quality washing machine detergent at the correct dosage for your water hardness, you should not need Calgon or any similar product. Washing machine detergent already contains water-softening agents that prevent limescale. Calgon works by doing the same thing – softening the water – but adds to your running costs without providing protection that correct detergent use would not already give you.
Calgon has been marketed for decades with the claim that washing machines last longer with its product. The question is whether that claim holds up under scrutiny – and whether adding an extra product to every wash is actually necessary.
What Do Washing Machine Manufacturers Say?
The clearest evidence that Calgon-style products are unnecessary comes from washing machine manufacturers themselves. Their instruction manuals consistently link limescale problems to insufficient detergent use rather than the absence of an additional additive.
“Too little detergent results in limescale on the heating element.”
Washing machine instruction manual (manufacturer unspecified)
“Use the right amount of detergent. Too little will cause poor wash results and a build up of scale.”
Washing machine instruction manual (manufacturer unspecified)
Detergent manufacturers make the same point directly. Persil’s guidance on washing machine care states:
“One of the things that can damage your washing machine is the build up of scale, particularly in hard water areas. But if you use Persil Automatic (or other detergent) at the correct dosage, you won’t need any additives to help protect your machine from limescale.”
Persil washing machine care guidance
The message from both appliance manufacturers and detergent makers is consistent: the water-softening protection needed to prevent limescale is already built into washing machine detergent. Additional products are not required if the detergent is used correctly.
What Does Calgon Actually Do?
Calgon works by softening the water – the same mechanism used by the softening agents already present in washing machine detergent. Calgon themselves now acknowledge this on their website. The product does not contain any special ingredient or technology that detergent does not already provide.
What Calgon Can DoProvide water-softening protection in cases where detergent is being under-dosed. Allow use of a reduced detergent dose in hard water areas by supplementing the softening action.
What Calgon Cannot DoProvide any protection that correct detergent use would not already give. Justify its cost if you are already dosing detergent correctly for your water hardness.
Does Limescale Really Shorten a Washing Machine’s Life?
Yes – limescale can damage washing machines. It accumulates on the heating element, acting as an insulator that causes the element to run hotter than designed, which can lead to premature failure. It also coats hoses and seals, accelerating their deterioration. For a full explanation of how limescale affects a washing machine, see our guide on limescale in washing machines.
What is less clear is how quickly this damage occurs in practice. Independent research – including testing by Which? (full results require a subscription) – has found that washing machines do not accumulate damaging levels of limescale as quickly as Calgon’s advertising implies. Calgon’s own research, reported by Which? in 2011, suggested it takes at least three years for significant limescale damage to develop, even in hard water areas. At the prices prevailing at that time, three years of Calgon use at one tablet per wash would have cost around £170.
Experienced engineers who have stripped down many old washing machines report regularly finding machines covered in limescale internally that were still functioning. The heating element can become coated in scale and still continue to work – though any coating will reduce heating efficiency, increase energy use, and over time create hot spots that may eventually cause failure. In areas with soft or moderately hard water, limescale may take many years to cause any practical problem.
Many modern washing machines have relatively short lifespans – often less than the time limescale would take to cause a breakdown in areas with anything other than very hard water. The irony is that the machine may need replacing for other reasons long before limescale becomes the critical issue.
The Warning Calgon Does Not Emphasise: Do Not Use in Soft Water Areas
Water that has been softened too much is not good for washing. Over-softened water can cause excessive foam, poor wash results, and in some cases prevent detergent from dissolving properly. Calgon should not be used in soft water areas – yet for many years its advertising ran in all areas without adequate qualification of this point.
If you are unsure of your water hardness, contact your local water company – most will provide the information freely and some offer water hardness test kits on request. Do not rely on postcode-based online tools as a precise guide; Yorkshire Water and other suppliers have noted that postcode is an unreliable indicator of water hardness for individual properties.
Why Do Some Washing Machine Manufacturers Recommend Calgon?
A small number of washing machine manufacturers do recommend Calgon or similar products. This is likely a commercial arrangement rather than a technical endorsement. One plausible explanation is that manufacturers are aware a significant proportion of users under-dose detergent. Recommending an additional softening product may be a pragmatic way of protecting machines – and the brand’s reputation for reliability – when they know their instructions on detergent dosage are frequently ignored.
It is notable that not all manufacturers make this recommendation. If Calgon were genuinely essential, the recommendation would be universal.
Is Calgon Worth the Cost?
The financial case for Calgon depends on one calculation: does the money saved by reducing detergent use (Calgon claims up to 25% reduction is possible) outweigh the cost of a tablet in every wash? For most households dosing detergent correctly, the answer is no – there is no saving to be made by adding a product that duplicates what the detergent is already doing.
The only situation where Calgon clearly earns its cost is for households who are consistently under-dosing detergent and not willing to change that habit. In that specific scenario, Calgon provides a limescale protection they would not otherwise have. The better solution, however, is simply to use the correct amount of detergent.
Use a good quality washing machine detergent. Check the dosage instructions on the packet and adjust for the hardness of your water – this is the single most effective limescale prevention measure available, and it costs nothing extra. Check your water hardness with your local water company if you are unsure.
Concerned About Limescale Damage?
If you suspect limescale has already damaged a component, a qualified engineer can assess and advise.
Related Guides
Limescale in Washing MachinesHow limescale forms, where it causes damage, and what the most effective prevention measures are.
Which Is the Best Type of Washing Machine Detergent?Powder, liquid, or capsule – which detergent type works best and which is most effective in hard water areas.
Washing Machine SmellsCauses of grease, slime and mould inside washing machines – and how detergent use affects the problem.
Eco-Friendly DetergentsHow green and plant-based detergents compare to conventional products for washing performance and machine care.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to use Calgon if I already use washing machine detergent?
Not if you are using a good quality detergent at the correct dosage for your water hardness. Washing machine detergent already contains water-softening agents that prevent limescale. Calgon works by the same mechanism and adds nothing that correctly dosed detergent does not already provide.
What does Calgon actually do?
Calgon softens the water, which is the same function performed by the softening agents already present in washing machine detergent. Calgon themselves acknowledge this. The product does not contain any unique ingredient or technology absent from standard detergent.
Can I use Calgon in a soft water area?
No – this is not recommended. Softening water that is already soft or moderately soft can cause excessive foam, poor wash results, and may prevent detergent from dissolving properly. Before using any anti-limescale additive, confirm your water hardness with your local water company.
Will my washing machine break down without Calgon?
Probably not, unless you live in a very hard water area and consistently under-dose detergent. Independent research, including testing by Which? (subscription required for full results), has found that washing machines do not develop damaging limescale accumulation as quickly as Calgon’s advertising implies. Limescale-related breakdowns are more likely in very hard water areas after many years of insufficient detergent use.
How do I know if I need to use more detergent or add Calgon?
First, find out your water hardness by contacting your local water company – most provide this information freely. Then check the detergent packaging for the recommended dose for your hardness level and load size. If you are already dosing correctly, neither more detergent nor Calgon is needed. If you have been under-dosing, increasing the detergent amount is more cost-effective than adding Calgon.
Should I put detergent in the soap dispenser or straight in the drum?
For most people, the soap dispenser drawer is the correct place for detergent. Placing detergent directly in the drum is an alternative if the dispenser is not flushing properly – but it must be used in a proper dosing ball, never poured loose onto clothing. Never overload the drum if using this method.
Most washing machine detergent belongs in the soap dispenser drawer – that is what it is designed for. But there are situations where placing it in the drum works better, and understanding the difference can help you get cleaner results and avoid problems.
Detergent in the Soap Dispenser Drawer
The dispenser drawer is the standard and recommended method for the vast majority of washes. Water is flushed through the drawer at the correct point in the cycle, carrying the detergent into the drum and distributing it through the load as the wash begins.
The most common problem with the dispenser drawer is a build-up of residue – old detergent, mould, or black sludge – that can block the channels and prevent the detergent from being properly flushed away. If your machine is leaving detergent in the drawer after a wash, or producing white streaks on clothing, the dispenser may need cleaning. See our guide on how to remove and clean the soap dispenser drawer.
Mould and residue in the soap dispenser drawer is one of the causes of unpleasant washing machine smells. Regular cleaning of the drawer – including the housing behind it – keeps both the drawer and the machine in better condition. See our guide on washing machine smells for more on this.
Should You Put Detergent in the Drum Instead?
Placing detergent directly in the drum rather than the drawer became briefly fashionable as a trend, but has no functional advantage for normal use. The dispenser drawer exists for a reason – it releases detergent at the right time and distributes it effectively. Using the drum instead makes sense only in specific situations.
When the Drum May Be BetterThe dispenser drawer is not flushing detergent away properly. The dispenser housing is damaged or clogged and cannot be fixed immediately. You prefer to avoid cleaning a persistently clogged drawer.
When to Stick With the DrawerFor all normal washes. The drawer is more reliable, distributes detergent more evenly, and is designed to release detergent at the correct stage of the cycle.
How to Put Detergent in the Drum Safely
If you do use the drum, you must use a proper dosing container – a detergent ball or dosing ball designed for this purpose. Never pour loose powder or liquid detergent directly onto clothing. Undiluted detergent in direct contact with fabric can cause bleaching, staining, and permanent damage to fibres.
Most detergent manufacturers will supply a dosing ball free of charge on request, and they are widely available to buy separately.
If the drum is too full, the dosing ball cannot move freely and the detergent may remain trapped inside the laundry rather than dispersing into the wash water. This leads to poor cleaning results and may leave concentrated detergent residue on clothing. Detergent concentrated in one place inside clothing also presents a safety risk if the garment is handled by a child. See our guide on detergent danger to children.
One Practical Downside
A plastic dosing ball tumbling around inside the drum during a wash cycle can be noisy. This is a minor inconvenience but worth knowing before switching from the drawer.
White Streaks on Clothes After Washing
If laundry is coming out with white marks or streaks, this can be related to detergent not being properly flushed from the dispenser drawer during rinsing. Switching to the drum with a dosing ball may resolve this. For a full list of causes, see our guide on white streaks on laundry after washing.
Washing Machine Not Cleaning Properly?
If poor wash results persist despite correct detergent use, a fault with the machine may be the cause.
Related Guides
Which Is the Best Type of Washing Machine Detergent?Powder, liquid, or capsule – which works best for cleaning, machine care, and different water types.
White Streaks on Laundry After WashingAll the causes of white powder or residue left on clothing – including dispenser and rinsing issues.
Do Biological Detergents Damage Laundry?What biological enzymes do and whether they are safe for wool, silk, and other delicate fabrics.
Eco-Friendly Green DetergentsHow plant-based and environmentally friendly detergents compare for washing performance and machine care.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it better to put detergent in the drum or the dispenser?
For most washes, the dispenser drawer is better. It releases detergent at the correct stage of the cycle and distributes it more evenly. The drum is a valid alternative if the dispenser is not flushing properly, or if the drawer housing is clogged and cannot be cleaned immediately – but a dosing ball must be used.
Can I put detergent powder directly on top of clothes?
No. Undiluted detergent in direct contact with fabric can cause bleaching, staining, or permanent damage to fibres. If placing detergent in the drum, always use a dosing ball or dedicated container to hold the detergent until it dissolves in the wash water.
Why is my soap dispenser drawer not flushing detergent away?
The most common causes are a build-up of residue blocking the dispenser channels, or insufficient water pressure to flush the drawer cleanly. Remove and clean the drawer and the housing behind it. If the problem persists, a water pressure issue or a blocked dispenser feed tube may need investigating.
Can using a dosing ball in the drum damage the machine?
No – dosing balls are designed for use in the drum and will not damage the machine. The main practical issue is noise from the plastic ball tumbling during the wash and spin cycles. This is a minor inconvenience rather than a mechanical concern.
Why does leaving detergent in the drawer cause white streaks on clothes?
If detergent is not fully flushed from the dispenser drawer during the wash cycle, undissolved residue can be reintroduced to the rinse water or transferred onto clothing. Using the drum with a dosing ball removes this variable. See our guide on white streaks on laundry for a full breakdown of causes.
Which is the best type of washing machine detergent?
No single detergent type is best for every wash. Powder is the most versatile and contains bleaching agents that keep whites bright and help prevent mould inside the machine. Liquid is better for colours but should not be used exclusively, as it lacks these bleaching agents and can contribute to smells and build-up over time. For best results, use different detergents for different types of load.
Washing powder, liquid, tablets, capsules, and eco formats all have a place – but they are not interchangeable. Understanding what each type does and does not contain helps you choose the right one for each wash, protect your clothing, and keep your washing machine in good condition.
Washing Powder: The Reliable Standard
Washing powder has been used successfully for decades and remains the most versatile option. It contains bleaching agents – typically optical brighteners and oxygen bleach – that help keep white laundry bright and also play a role in keeping the inside of the washing machine free from bacteria and black mould.
The main practical limitation of powder is that it can clump or fail to dissolve completely in very cold water or where water pressure through the dispenser drawer is low. If powder is consistently being left in the drawer after a wash, switching to liquid or a tablet may solve the problem – though the dispenser drawer itself should also be checked for blockages.
Liquid Detergent: Good for Colours, Not for Everything
Liquid detergent is pre-dissolved and flushes through the dispenser drawer more reliably than powder, making it a useful alternative if powder is not being dispensed correctly. Its key advantage for laundry is that it does not contain bleaching agents, making it safer for coloured and dark clothing where fading is a concern.
However, the absence of bleaching agents is also liquid detergent’s most significant limitation for the machine itself.
Using liquid detergent for all washes – especially combined with consistently low wash temperatures – can cause serious grease, slime, and black mould to build up inside the machine over time. This is unpleasant, shortens the life of the machine, and is difficult to remove once established. Regular washes with a powder or biological detergent at higher temperatures are the most effective preventive measure. See our guide on washing machine smells, grease, and mould.
Tablets and Capsules: Convenient but More Expensive
Detergent tablets and capsules offer a pre-measured dose, eliminating the risk of under or over-dosing. They are primarily a convenience product – the detergent inside does not perform differently to loose detergent of the same type, but they remove the need for measuring and reduce the mess of powder or liquid spills.
The main drawbacks are cost – tablets typically cost more per wash than loose powder or liquid – and the lack of flexibility. With loose detergent, the dose can be adjusted up or down for load size, soiling level, or water hardness. With tablets, the dose is fixed.
Liquid detergent capsules and tabs carry specific safety risks around young children. See our guide on detergent capsule danger to children for important safety information.
Why Using More Than One Type of Detergent Makes Sense
Most households buy a single box of detergent and use it for everything. But whites and colours have genuinely different requirements, and using one product for both means compromising on one or the other.
For Whites and Light LaundryUse a detergent containing bleaching agents – typically a full-strength biological or non-biological powder. This keeps whites bright, prevents greyness, and is needed for maintenance washes to keep the machine clean.
For Colours and DarksUse a colour-safe detergent – liquid or a colour-specific powder such as Ariel Colour. These do not contain bleaching agents and will not fade or dull coloured fabrics over repeated washes.
For Silks and WoollensUse a specialist delicates or wool wash detergent. Biological detergents contain enzymes that can damage silk and wool fibres over time. See our guide on biological detergents and fabric damage.
For Lightly Soiled LoadsAn eco-friendly or 30-degree detergent works well for lightly soiled items. These are not as effective for heavy soiling, bedding, or underwear, but are a reasonable choice for a light refresh wash.
Stocking two or three types of detergent does not mean using more overall – the same total amount is divided between different products for different jobs. The additional cost of having more than one product on the shelf is offset by better results for both the laundry and the machine.
The Bleaching Agent Question
Understanding which detergents contain bleaching agents and which do not is the most important distinction when choosing between products.
| Detergent Type | Contains Bleaching Agents? | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Full-strength powder (bio or non-bio) | Yes | Whites, maintenance washes, heavy soiling |
| Colour powder (e.g. Ariel Colour) | No | Coloured and dark laundry |
| Liquid detergent | No | Colours, delicates, low-temperature washes |
| Biological detergent (any format) | Yes (plus enzymes) | Stains, general washing – not silk or wool |
| Non-biological detergent | Yes (no enzymes) | Sensitive skin, silk, wool |
| Eco / 30-degree detergent | Typically no, or reduced | Lightly soiled loads, environmental preference |
Related Guides on Detergent and Machine Care
Getting detergent right is one of the biggest factors in keeping both laundry and the machine in good condition.
Related Guides
Do Biological Detergents Damage Laundry?How biological enzymes work and why they can cause holes or damage in silk and wool garments.
Biological Detergent and Skin IrritationWhether biological detergents cause skin reactions and what the evidence actually shows.
Eco-Friendly Green DetergentsHow plant-based and environmentally friendly detergents compare to conventional products.
Soap Dispenser or Drum: Where to Put DetergentWhen to use the dispenser drawer and when putting detergent directly in the drum makes more sense.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is washing powder better than liquid detergent?
For most households, powder is the more versatile choice because it contains bleaching agents that help keep whites bright and prevent mould inside the machine. Liquid has no bleaching agents, making it kinder to colours but less effective for whites and not suitable for use as the only detergent long term. The best approach is to use both – powder for whites and maintenance washes, liquid for colours and darks.
Can I use liquid detergent for every wash?
It is not recommended. Liquid detergent does not contain the bleaching agents that inhibit bacterial growth and mould inside the machine. Using it exclusively – especially at low wash temperatures – can lead to grease, slime, and black mould accumulating over time, causing unpleasant smells and shortening the machine’s life.
Are detergent tablets worth the extra cost?
They offer genuine convenience through pre-measured doses, which prevents under-dosing. However, they are typically more expensive per wash than loose powder or liquid and offer no performance advantage. For households where correct dosing is already consistent, the extra cost is hard to justify. For those who regularly under-dose, tablets may actually save money through better wash results and fewer machine problems.
Should I use biological or non-biological detergent?
Biological detergent contains enzymes that break down proteins, fats, and starches, making it more effective at stain removal at lower temperatures. It should not be used on silk or wool, as the enzymes can damage these fibres. Non-biological detergent is enzyme-free and safer for delicates, though it is less effective on protein-based stains. For households with mixed laundry types, keeping both is the most practical approach.
Do I need a separate detergent for colours?
Ideally, yes. Detergents containing bleaching agents – which includes most standard powder products – can gradually fade coloured and dark laundry over repeated washes. A colour-safe detergent without bleaching agents will preserve colours for much longer. The overall cost is similar since you are dividing the same total wash load between two products.
Fabric Softener Compartment Full of Water
Remove the dispenser drawer, check the small siphon tube and cap at the back of the fabric softener compartment, and clean thoroughly. Blockage with old softener residue is the most common cause. Test the siphon action under a running tap before refitting. If the siphon tube or cap is missing, the compartment cannot drain and a replacement part is needed.
When a wash cycle finishes and the fabric softener compartment is still full of water, it almost always points to one of three causes: a blocked siphon tube, a missing siphon cap, or a build-up of old fabric softener residue in the dispenser drawer. This guide explains how the compartment is supposed to work, how to diagnose which cause applies, and how to fix it.
How the Fabric Softener Compartment Is Supposed to Work
Understanding the mechanism makes the diagnosis straightforward. The fabric softener compartment uses a siphon principle rather than a valve or pump, which is why a small plastic tube and cap are so critical to its function.
Step 1: The machine floods the compartment
At the correct point in the wash cycle, the washing machine directs a flow of water into the fabric softener compartment. This water floods the compartment and forces the fabric softener out over the edges and down into the drum to be mixed into the rinse water.
Step 2: The siphon starts
As the compartment fills with water, the rising water level reaches the top of a small plastic tube at the back of the compartment. The water rises up this tube and spills over into the main drawer channel, starting a siphon action.
Step 3: The compartment drains itself
Once started, the siphon continues drawing water up through the tube and out into the main drawer until the compartment is empty. The small plastic cap or cover on top of the siphon tube is essential to this process, as it shapes the water flow in a way that maintains the siphon until the compartment is fully drained.
What you should see at the end of the cycle
The fabric softener compartment should be empty, or contain only a very small trace of water. If the compartment still contains water, the siphon action has either not started, or not completed, indicating a blockage, a missing component, or a fault with the water supply pressure.
What Causes the Compartment to Stay Full of Water
Blocked siphon tubeThe most common cause. Fabric softener builds up inside the siphon tube and its cap over time, eventually restricting or completely blocking the water flow needed to start the siphon. Thick or concentrated fabric softeners and using more than the recommended dose both accelerate this build-up. Cleaning the tube and cap thoroughly usually resolves this immediately.
Missing siphon cap or tubeIf the plastic cap on top of the siphon tube is missing, or if the tube itself is absent, the siphon action cannot start correctly. Caps can come off during cleaning if not refitted, and on some machines they are a separate removable piece that is easy to lose. Check whether the cap is present before cleaning.
Residue blocking the compartment baseConcentrated softener residue can build up on the floor of the compartment and around the base of the siphon tube, restricting water flow into the tube. This is often found alongside a blocked tube rather than as a standalone cause.
Stray water entering the compartmentOn some machines, deflected rinse water can enter the fabric softener compartment after the softener has already been dispensed. Small amounts of stray water collect but may not be enough to trigger the siphon, leaving the compartment partially full. See: fabric softener taken out too soon.
How to Diagnose and Fix the Problem
-
Remove the dispenser drawer. Pull the drawer out fully. On most machines there is a release tab or button that needs to be pressed to allow the drawer to come out past its normal stop. If you are not sure how to remove yours, read: how to remove the soap drawer.
-
Locate the siphon tube and cap. The siphon tube is the small plastic tube at the back of the fabric softener compartment. It usually has a cap or cover that sits on top, which is either integral or a separate removable piece. Check that both the tube and cap are present before doing anything else. If the cap is missing, that is the likely cause, and a replacement part is needed before any cleaning will resolve the problem.
-
Remove the cap and clean everything thoroughly. Take off the cap and remove the tube if it is removable. Wash the compartment, the tube, and the cap under hot running water, using a bottle brush or pipe cleaner to clear the inside of the tube if it is partially blocked. Fabric softener residue is sticky and may need soaking in warm water to dissolve fully. Clean the compartment floor and walls, and the channel that runs underneath to the main drawer body.
-
Test the siphon action before refitting. Hold the drawer under a running tap and allow water to fill the fabric softener compartment until it overflows into the main drawer area. Turn off the tap and hold the drawer level and steady. Watch the fabric softener compartment: the water should slowly siphon up through the tube and drain away over the next 20 to 30 seconds until the compartment is empty. If it drains, the siphon is working correctly. Refit the drawer and the problem should be resolved.
-
If the siphon test fails, check the tube and cap again. If water remains in the compartment after the test, the tube may still be partially blocked, or the cap may not be seating correctly. Re-clean and retest. If the tube and cap are visibly clear and correctly fitted but the siphon still does not work, the tube or cap may be damaged and need replacing. Search for your machine’s model number on our spare parts guide to find the correct replacement part.
-
Clean the drawer housing too. While the drawer is out, clean the housing in the machine that the drawer slides into. Mould, residue, and limescale build up in the housing channels over time and can contribute to blockage and poor water flow. A damp cloth or old toothbrush works well for the housing. Run the machine on a hot maintenance wash after refitting the clean drawer.
The tap test described in step 4 is reliable and takes less than a minute. It confirms the fix has worked before you run a full wash cycle.
If Cleaning Does Not Solve It
If the compartment is still full of water after thoroughly cleaning the tube and cap, and the siphon test works when tested under the tap, there may be a secondary cause to investigate.
On some machines, the angle at which rinse water enters the drawer housing can direct a small amount of water into the fabric softener compartment after the softener has already been dispensed. This stray water slowly collects but may not be enough in quantity to trigger the siphon. The compartment ends up partially full of clean water rather than soapy water. Read the full explanation: fabric softener taken out too soon.
Very high incoming water pressure can affect how the dispenser works, including the timing and force of water entering the softener compartment. If you suspect high pressure, try slightly reducing the flow on the washing machine tap and run a test cycle to see if the compartment drains fully. This is a less common cause but worth trying if cleaning has not resolved it and the machine otherwise works normally.
Preventing the Problem Recurring
Once you have cleaned the siphon tube and restored proper function, a few habits significantly reduce the chance of the problem returning.
-
Use the correct dose of fabric softener. Overfilling the compartment leaves residue that sticks to the tube and cap. Use the marked maximum fill line and do not exceed it. Concentrated softeners in particular should be used at the lower end of the recommended dose. -
Clean the dispenser drawer regularly. Remove and rinse the drawer every month or two to prevent residue build-up before it becomes a blockage. Pay particular attention to the siphon tube and cap each time. -
Consider diluting the fabric softener. Adding a small amount of water to the fabric softener before putting it in the compartment helps it flow more freely and reduces the likelihood of residue build-up in the tube. -
Run a maintenance wash periodically. A hot wash at 60°C or 90°C with no laundry and a washing machine cleaner flushes residue from the dispenser, drum, and hoses. Every one to three months is sufficient for most households.
Related Fabric Softener Faults
Fabric softener not being taken out at allThe compartment still contains fabric softener after the cycle, meaning the machine failed to flush it out. Different causes and fixes to the water-only scenario.
Fabric softener taken out too early in the cycleWhen fabric softener is dispensed at the wrong point in the programme, it rinses straight through without conditioning the laundry. Causes and solutions.
How to remove the soap dispenser drawerStep by step guide to removing the detergent drawer for cleaning, including how to release the drawer past the stop on machines with a press tab.
Do not use fabric softener on children’s sleepwearWhy fabric softener reduces the flame resistance of children’s nightwear and what to use instead to keep clothes soft safely.
Save on fabric softener when tumble dryingHow to reduce fabric softener usage when laundry is going straight into the tumble dryer after washing.
Need a repair or spare parts?
If cleaning the siphon has not resolved the problem, or if you need a replacement dispenser drawer, siphon cap, or other part, Whitegoods Help can point you in the right direction.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my fabric softener compartment full of water after the wash?
The most common cause is a blocked siphon tube in the fabric softener compartment. The compartment drains via a siphon mechanism rather than a valve, so any blockage from fabric softener residue will prevent it from emptying. Remove the dispenser drawer, clean the siphon tube and cap thoroughly, and test the siphon action under a running tap before refitting. A missing siphon cap is the second most common cause and results in the same symptom.
How do I clean the fabric softener compartment siphon?
Remove the dispenser drawer fully from the machine. Locate the small plastic tube and cap at the back of the fabric softener compartment. Remove the cap and clean the tube, cap, and compartment thoroughly under hot running water. Use a bottle brush or pipe cleaner inside the tube to clear any residue. Once clean, test the siphon by filling the compartment under a tap until it overflows, then turning the tap off and watching whether the compartment drains itself. If it does, the siphon is working correctly.
My siphon tube is clean but the compartment still fills with water. What else could it be?
If the tube and cap are clean and the siphon test works correctly under the tap, the most likely explanation is stray rinse water entering the compartment after the softener has been dispensed. This can happen when the water entering the drawer housing is deflected toward the softener compartment. Small amounts of water collect but may not be sufficient to trigger the siphon. Read our guide on fabric softener taken out too soon for a full explanation of this issue.
What is the plastic tube and cap in the fabric softener compartment for?
The small plastic tube and cap form the siphon mechanism that drains the fabric softener compartment after the softener has been dispensed. When the machine floods the compartment to flush out the softener, the rising water reaches the top of the tube, spills into the main drawer channel, and starts a siphon action that draws all remaining water out of the compartment. Without the cap, or with the tube blocked, this process does not work and water remains in the compartment.
The siphon cap on my fabric softener drawer is missing. Can I replace it?
Yes, but you need the exact replacement cap for your machine’s model. These small plastic parts are available through spare parts suppliers for most mainstream washing machine brands. You will need your machine’s exact model number to order the correct part. Search by model number on our spare parts guide. Searching for “dispenser drawer siphon cap” or “softener compartment cap” along with your model number will usually find the right part.
Is it normal to have a small amount of water in the fabric softener compartment?
A very small trace of water after the cycle is not unusual, as the siphon action does not always remove every last drop. However, a compartment that is substantially full of water after a completed cycle is not normal and indicates a blockage or missing component. If the softener itself has gone and only water remains, the softener function has worked but the siphon has not fully drained the compartment.
How often should I clean the fabric softener dispenser drawer?
Cleaning the drawer every one to two months prevents residue build-up from becoming a blockage. Pay particular attention to the siphon tube and cap each time. If you use concentrated fabric softener or regularly use more than the recommended dose, clean more frequently. Running a hot maintenance wash every month or two also helps clear residue from the dispenser housing and connecting channels inside the machine.