Whitegoods Help article

Can you connect a dishwasher to the hot water supply?

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Quick Answer

Most dishwashers are designed to connect to the cold water supply and heat water internally. Some can be connected to a hot supply, but only if the instruction manual specifically states this is permitted. Do not connect to hot water above 60 degrees – this can damage the filtration system. Always use a hot fill hose (red stripe) rather than a standard cold fill hose if connecting to hot water.

Whether a dishwasher can or should be connected to a hot water supply rather than cold is a question without a clear universal answer. Manufacturer guidance varies, there are both advantages and disadvantages, and several practical constraints apply.

The Default Position: Cold Fill

The large majority of dishwashers sold in the UK come supplied with a cold fill hose and instructions to connect to the cold water supply. Most are designed to heat water internally from cold to the required wash and rinse temperatures. This is the standard configuration and works correctly for the overwhelming majority of installations.

Some dishwashers can also be connected to a hot supply, but this is not universal. The instruction manual is the definitive reference – if it does not mention hot water connection as an option, the machine should be connected to cold only.

Pros and Cons of Connecting to Hot Water

✅ Potential advantages

  • Can reduce electricity consumption – if the dishwasher no longer needs to heat water from cold to wash temperature, the element runs less. The actual saving depends on whether hot water in the property is generated more cheaply than the electricity the dishwasher would otherwise use
  • Can reduce cycle time – if hot water reaches the machine quickly, the heating phase is shortened or eliminated

❌ Disadvantages and risks

  • Water entering above 60 degrees can damage the dishwasher’s filtration system
  • Hot water can bake food residue onto dishes before the cleaning agents have time to work on it, making some items harder to clean
  • Lower programmes such as 50 degree cycles may be compromised if the incoming water is already at 60 degrees
  • Hot water pressure is often lower than cold, particularly from a gravity-fed cylinder rather than a pressurised system
  • Hot fill hoses are more prone to kinking – the hose goes soft when hot water passes through it and can restrict flow if under any physical strain at the back of the machine
  • The energy saving only applies if hot water is cheaper to generate than the equivalent electricity – this depends entirely on the heating system in the property

Practical Requirements If Connecting to Hot Water

  • ✅
    Confirm the machine supports hot water connection. Check the instruction manual before connecting to hot water. If the manual does not specifically mention this as an option, connect to cold only.
  • ✅
    Use a hot fill hose. Fill hoses are made in both hot and cold variants – hot hoses are typically marked with a red stripe or are red-coloured. Using a cold fill hose on a hot water connection is inadvisable as the hose material and fittings may not be rated for sustained hot water use.
  • ✅
    Ensure the hot water temperature does not exceed 60 degrees. The maximum inlet temperature for most dishwashers is 60 degrees. Check the boiler or cylinder thermostat setting – some properties have hot water set higher than this. Temperatures above 60 degrees entering the machine can damage the filtration system.
  • ✅
    Check the hot water pressure is adequate. If the hot water supply is fed by a gravity-fed cylinder rather than a pressurised combi boiler, the pressure may be insufficient for the dishwasher’s inlet valve to open correctly. A machine that fills slowly or incompletely can produce poor wash results and error codes.
  • ✅
    Ensure the hose can run without kinking. Route the hot fill hose without any tight bends or physical strain. Unlike a cold fill hose, a hot fill hose softens when hot water flows through it and will kink readily under stress, restricting water flow.
Manual not to hand?

If the instruction manual is not available, download it using the model number on the machine’s door frame sticker. Links to official manual download pages for all major dishwasher brands are on our appliance user manuals page.


Frequently Asked Questions

Can I connect my dishwasher to the hot water supply?

Some dishwashers allow hot water connection – check the instruction manual to confirm whether your specific model supports it. If the manual does not mention this option, connect to cold only. Most dishwashers are designed to heat water internally from cold and work correctly connected to the cold supply as standard.

What is the maximum water temperature for a dishwasher hot fill connection?

Do not connect to water above 60 degrees. Most domestic hot water systems are set to 60 degrees, which is both the standard Legionella prevention temperature and the maximum safe inlet temperature for most dishwashers. If the boiler or cylinder is set higher, reduce it before connecting the dishwasher to the hot supply.

Does connecting a dishwasher to hot water save energy?

Potentially, but not automatically. The saving only applies if hot water in the property is generated more cheaply than the equivalent electricity the dishwasher element would use. For properties on gas central heating with an efficient boiler, there may be a small saving. For properties with off-peak or solar electricity, or electric immersion heating, the saving may be minimal or non-existent. The actual benefit depends on the specific energy tariffs and heating system.

Last reviewed: April 2026.

Discussion

49 Comments

Grouped into 41 comment threads.

Simon 3 replies I thought I would state the reason for the cold water supply. The EU energy labelling scheme has caused this need for cold. It’s based in the fact that most people’s incoming cold water is a similar temperature. Hot water is produced by individual household with varying carbon footprints and as such would be impossible to provide a energy rating based on that, so cold water is used for the calculation purpose only, therefore forcing the machine to heat up water from cold. I have solar thermal at home and am about to connect the dishwasher to a 40deg C Feed. This will improve the efficiency of energy use as the temperature difference is less and it will use less electricity for the top up to 50 or 69 deg.

I thought I would state the reason for the cold water supply. The EU energy labelling scheme has caused this need for cold. It’s based in the fact that most people’s incoming cold water is a similar temperature. Hot water is produced by individual household with varying carbon footprints and as such would be impossible to provide a energy rating based on that, so cold water is used for the calculation purpose only, therefore forcing the machine to heat up water from cold.
I have solar thermal at home and am about to connect the dishwasher to a 40deg C Feed. This will improve the efficiency of energy use as the temperature difference is less and it will use less electricity for the top up to 50 or 69 deg.

Powerfader

Cold water boils faster than hot water. Therefore, I would believe cold water running to your dishwasher would do the same. …physics

Marvin 1 reply There's progress in the world!! Purchased basic Bosch Dishwasher. Can be fitted to hot water supply only. This is good for me because: No Mains gas Solar hot water Less than 2 litres draw off from hot water tank to dishwasher. Thermostatic water blender set to 55 deg C. Will test this during the summer and advise..

There’s progress in the world!! Purchased basic Bosch Dishwasher. Can be fitted to hot water supply only. This is good for me because:

No Mains gas
Solar hot water
Less than 2 litres draw off from hot water tank to dishwasher.
Thermostatic water blender set to 55 deg C.

Will test this during the summer and advise..

Nick 1 reply The reason why all hot water systems heat to 60C (higher in the case of some solar and solid fuel systems) is that 55C is generally accepted to be the killing temperature for Legionella bacteria in hot water systems. So for a tanked system, if the hot water in the tank reaches 60C at least once every 24hours and each hot outlet (tap) is run every 24hours there should be no legionella. I mention this because it would be very bad if your readers turn down their hot water thermostats to save gas/electricity. Legionella is ubiquitous in the environment so their system will become infected. In contrast hot water is dangerous at above 42C. But you need 50C at the kitchen tap to clean greasy dishes So their is a safety trade off. Hence thermostatic mixer valves at bath taps/showers or washing facilities where children/elderly/disabled wash (healthy adults have good enough reactions to stop themselves getting scalded. Check out the CIPHE for details on this issue. I have plumbed my dishwashers into hot supplies in my own houses and have noticed no detrimental effects on the dishwasher/dishes or hoses over many years. One solid fuel system I had used to generate HW at much hotter than 60C (I had problems with it boiling) and yet the standard cold fill hoses still seemed to survive OK. When I plumb dishwasher in for my customers who have non electric based HW systems I always tell them this and give them the option of HW fill. For gas/solid fuel/solar systems this affords a considerable saving over the life time of the appliance as electric heating at the appliance is more expensive per unit of heat. Non of my customers have noticed or complained of any detrimental effect caused by HW fill, over many years. This includes some commercial kitchens where the dishwasher hardly ever stops. The only disadvantage is that if you have a combi boiler or water heater it will keep firing up every time you turn on your dishwasher, but that's the sound of you saving money! I have not noticed any problems caused by low pressure HW supply to the dishwasher. In practise I think all dishwashers/washing machines etc should be duel fill. Further efficiencies could be produced by linking the devise to the HW cistern or boiler so that the devise "chooses" to use HW when it is available thereby using HW from the cheapest most environmentally friendly source. Regards Nick the Plumber

The reason why all hot water systems heat to 60C (higher in the case of some solar and solid fuel systems) is that 55C is generally accepted to be the killing temperature for Legionella bacteria in hot water systems. So for a tanked system, if the hot water in the tank reaches 60C at least once every 24hours and each hot outlet (tap) is run every 24hours there should be no legionella. I mention this because it would be very bad if your readers turn down their hot water thermostats to save gas/electricity. Legionella is ubiquitous in the environment so their system will become infected.
In contrast hot water is dangerous at above 42C. But you need 50C at the kitchen tap to clean greasy dishes So their is a safety trade off. Hence thermostatic mixer valves at bath taps/showers or washing facilities where children/elderly/disabled wash (healthy adults have good enough reactions to stop themselves getting scalded. Check out the CIPHE for details on this issue.
I have plumbed my dishwashers into hot supplies in my own houses and have noticed no detrimental effects on the dishwasher/dishes or hoses over many years. One solid fuel system I had used to generate HW at much hotter than 60C (I had problems with it boiling) and yet the standard cold fill hoses still seemed to survive OK.
When I plumb dishwasher in for my customers who have non electric based HW systems I always tell them this and give them the option of HW fill. For gas/solid fuel/solar systems this affords a considerable saving over the life time of the appliance as electric heating at the appliance is more expensive per unit of heat. Non of my customers have noticed or complained of any detrimental effect caused by HW fill, over many years. This includes some commercial kitchens where the dishwasher hardly ever stops. The only disadvantage is that if you have a combi boiler or water heater it will keep firing up every time you turn on your dishwasher, but that’s the sound of you saving money!
I have not noticed any problems caused by low pressure HW supply to the dishwasher.
In practise I think all dishwashers/washing machines etc should be duel fill. Further efficiencies could be produced by linking the devise to the HW cistern or boiler so that the devise “chooses” to use HW when it is available thereby using HW from the cheapest most environmentally friendly source.
Regards
Nick the Plumber

Graham 1 reply MIELE DISHWASHER MANUAL: "The dishwasher may be connected to a cold or hot water supply, max. 60 °C. We would only recommend connection to a hot water supply if it is economical. When connected to a hot water supply, all programme stages which would otherwise be carried out with cold water will be carried out with hot water, thus saving time and energy costs."

MIELE DISHWASHER MANUAL: “The dishwasher may be connected to a cold or hot water supply, max. 60 °C. We would only recommend connection to a hot water supply if it is economical. When connected to a hot water supply, all programme stages which would otherwise be carried out with cold water will be carried out with hot water, thus saving time and energy costs.”

Washerhelp

Likely replying to Graham

Thanks Graham: The Miele manual makes a sweeping and misleading statement, which can’t be true generally. It may be more economical for the dishwasher in that the dishwasher may well use less electricity heating up the water, but they do not take into account the cost of heating the water up elsewhere, which may come from a cheaper source such as solar powered but it may come from an electrically heated immersion heater which costs exactly the same to heat as the dishwasher would plus there’d be an amount of wasted hot water left in the pipework.

The hot water might come from an inefficient old boiler cited two floors up with several metres of uninsulated copper pipework between them. In the latter case when the dishwasher had finished filling it would have drawn in several litres of hot water which would just sit in the pipework and go completely cold therefore wasting it. Also, the amount of water that the dishwasher draws into itself and the pipes may well be replaced in many people’s houses by cold water into the hot water cylinder therefore cooling down the rest of the water and triggering its heater to come on to raise the water back up to temperature.

Therefore the actual costs of using that water vary considerably from house to house and are in most cases difficult or impossible to work out. The whole point of an appliance heating up its own water is that in many cases it’s cheaper because it only heats up the exact amount of water the appliance needs.

Example:

If we imagine we want a cup of hot water to make a coffee, and we pour the exact amount of cold water required and the cup itself heats the water up. That’s got to be highly efficient. But what if we have a source of hot water already in the form of a big tea urn in the next room connected to a tap in the kitchen and connected to a constant cold water supply which replaces all water used?

If we fill the cup from this tap it’s cheaper because the water’s already been heated? But the problem is that the first half a dozen cups of water that come out are cold or at best warm because it was several hours since we last had a coffee and all the water in the pipes between the tea urn and the tap in the kitchen has cooled down. So we draw off several cups of cold and warm water and throw them down the sink. That’s the first waste which needs accounting for.

Then the hot water comes through ok and we fill our cup and have a nice hot coffee. The coffee cup didn’t need to heat any water so it’s more economical? For the cup yes! But after drawing all that water through we filled the pipework with boiling hot water again which is going to go cold quite quickly. Also, all the water we threw down the sink and the water that we used for the coffee is replaced in the tea urn by cold water from the plumbing, which in turn cools the water already heated in there and causes it to need to heat up a little more to bring it back up to temperature.

Which is the most efficient method? Surely it’s letting the cup heat up only the exact amount of water required.

That said, what if we had one of those new devices like the Tefal Quickup, which heats up only the water required for a coffee? In this case it’s cheaper (or maybe no different) to use this device to heat up one cup full. Or what if we had a tea urn in the same room heated by solar power? Then it would be cheaper to use that..

What it boils down to is that it’s wrong to say one method is cheaper than another as it depends entirely on the source of the hot water and circumstances. In some cases using existing hot water will be cheaper, and in others it will be more expensive.

Dave 1 reply Not been back to this page for ages and only just seen the comments re Ecover. I've got to say that I use ecover washing powder, Fabric Softener, Dishwasher Tablets and Rinse aid and they are all actually very impressive. The washing powder works far better than Persil or Fairy non bio ever did either in my old Hoover washer or in my new LG. I do have to use it sparingly though as it is very sudsy. The fabric softener is good, but I must admit that I am not a big fan of fabric softeners anyway, so I don't have a lot to judge against except Waitrose's own brand which I used to have before Ecover. I can't tell any difference between that and Ecover. For dishwashing I used to use Finish, but it Finished off all my glasses and some of my better crockery as it is so very abrasive. To be fair it does carry warnings that it may affect your dishes and glasses and many comparison web sites and reviews such as Which? also warn that most traditional dishwasher detergents can do this. The Ecover tablets work pretty well and my glassware is nice and shiny, rather than looking like it's been sprayed with a thin coating of PVA glue. The only thing that the Ecover tablets don't seem to deal with is baked on mincemeat when I make mince pies and they boil over onto the baking tray; but Finish never touched that either. A good old Brillo pad and a sink full of red hot water seems to be the only way to deal with that one. Ecover Rinse Aid looks, smells and seems to behave like Finish, Co-op's own brand and Waitrose's own brand to me. In fact it was because they all seemed the same that when I read in the Miele book that vinegar does the same job but is cheaper and kinder to the environment that I thought I'd try it, but I have to admit that it didn't seem to do such a good job. I've also had a free bottle of Miele's rinse Aid, which seemed to work fine but it looked just like tap water! Heaven knows what was in it. It's interesting to see the comments about Hotpoint and Bosch's relationship: in my old Bosch dishwasher instruction book I remember clearly that it stated that for service you had to ring Hotpoint, hence my assumption that it was Hotpoint doing the making. I also recall that I bought that dishwasher from the Co-Op and they had the identical machine in at a lower price with the Hotpoint badge on it and also their own brand which was also identical on the outside but inside had grey baskets not white. This was back in 1988 and that machine really was utter rubbish. It was the worst ever buy that I have made in terms of electrical appliances. In fairness it was a slimline model and I don't think that helped as I have heard many people say since then that slimline models don't tend to work as well as full size, but even allowing for that it was a bitter disappointment and I got shut after a very few years, going back to hand washing my pots for about a decade before getting a Hoover dishwasher in 2003, which proved to be very good at washing but very unreliable (what do you expect when it's a Candy in disguise - it even had Candy labels on the circulating pump and some of the electrical components in it) and then the Miele that I have now in 2007. The old Bosch-Point that I had also had provision for hot fill I recall. Of course back then I didn't have solar water heating but as it was going in a space where a washing machine had been I did connect it to hot water tap that was already there. The instructions for doing so consisted of telling you to undo the water inlet hose from the back of the machine, use long nosed pliers to pull out the strainer, then remove a small rubber pressure reducing device, put the strainer back and connect up. I did all those things but the machine would not operate as the hot water pressure was too low (back then I also had lead hot water pipes which were all furred up and had a very tiny bore!), so I had to put the rubber part back and use cold anyway. A colleague of mine at work has just moved into a new house and has room for a dishwasher now so he's been looking at them. He has a 12 year old Bosch washing machine that is still hot fill and he was horrified when he found that Bosch don't do hot fill dishwashers as such, but after referring him to this site he went and downloaded the instruction manuals for some Bosch dishwashers that he is considering and is now quite happy to find that they (apparently - I have not verified this myself) state that hot water fill is OK. He's very brand-loyal to Bosch so he was keen to get one of theirs if he could possibly use hot water.

Not been back to this page for ages and only just seen the comments re Ecover.

I’ve got to say that I use ecover washing powder, Fabric Softener, Dishwasher Tablets and Rinse aid and they are all actually very impressive.

The washing powder works far better than Persil or Fairy non bio ever did either in my old Hoover washer or in my new LG. I do have to use it sparingly though as it is very sudsy. The fabric softener is good, but I must admit that I am not a big fan of fabric softeners anyway, so I don’t have a lot to judge against except Waitrose’s own brand which I used to have before Ecover. I can’t tell any difference between that and Ecover.

For dishwashing I used to use Finish, but it Finished off all my glasses and some of my better crockery as it is so very abrasive. To be fair it does carry warnings that it may affect your dishes and glasses and many comparison web sites and reviews such as Which? also warn that most traditional dishwasher detergents can do this. The Ecover tablets work pretty well and my glassware is nice and shiny, rather than looking like it’s been sprayed with a thin coating of PVA glue. The only thing that the Ecover tablets don’t seem to deal with is baked on mincemeat when I make mince pies and they boil over onto the baking tray; but Finish never touched that either. A good old Brillo pad and a sink full of red hot water seems to be the only way to deal with that one.

Ecover Rinse Aid looks, smells and seems to behave like Finish, Co-op’s own brand and Waitrose’s own brand to me. In fact it was because they all seemed the same that when I read in the Miele book that vinegar does the same job but is cheaper and kinder to the environment that I thought I’d try it, but I have to admit that it didn’t seem to do such a good job. I’ve also had a free bottle of Miele’s rinse Aid, which seemed to work fine but it looked just like tap water! Heaven knows what was in it.

It’s interesting to see the comments about Hotpoint and Bosch’s relationship: in my old Bosch dishwasher instruction book I remember clearly that it stated that for service you had to ring Hotpoint, hence my assumption that it was Hotpoint doing the making. I also recall that I bought that dishwasher from the Co-Op and they had the identical machine in at a lower price with the Hotpoint badge on it and also their own brand which was also identical on the outside but inside had grey baskets not white. This was back in 1988 and that machine really was utter rubbish. It was the worst ever buy that I have made in terms of electrical appliances. In fairness it was a slimline model and I don’t think that helped as I have heard many people say since then that slimline models don’t tend to work as well as full size, but even allowing for that it was a bitter disappointment and I got shut after a very few years, going back to hand washing my pots for about a decade before getting a Hoover dishwasher in 2003, which proved to be very good at washing but very unreliable (what do you expect when it’s a Candy in disguise – it even had Candy labels on the circulating pump and some of the electrical components in it) and then the Miele that I have now in 2007.

The old Bosch-Point that I had also had provision for hot fill I recall. Of course back then I didn’t have solar water heating but as it was going in a space where a washing machine had been I did connect it to hot water tap that was already there. The instructions for doing so consisted of telling you to undo the water inlet hose from the back of the machine, use long nosed pliers to pull out the strainer, then remove a small rubber pressure reducing device, put the strainer back and connect up. I did all those things but the machine would not operate as the hot water pressure was too low (back then I also had lead hot water pipes which were all furred up and had a very tiny bore!), so I had to put the rubber part back and use cold anyway.

A colleague of mine at work has just moved into a new house and has room for a dishwasher now so he’s been looking at them. He has a 12 year old Bosch washing machine that is still hot fill and he was horrified when he found that Bosch don’t do hot fill dishwashers as such, but after referring him to this site he went and downloaded the instruction manuals for some Bosch dishwashers that he is considering and is now quite happy to find that they (apparently – I have not verified this myself) state that hot water fill is OK. He’s very brand-loyal to Bosch so he was keen to get one of theirs if he could possibly use hot water.

Oliver Shaw

Likely replying to Dave

Hi Dave,

You can still connect a Bosch dishwasher to a hot water supply.

I have had no luck with Ecover at all, their laundry powder was rubbish from what I could tell, not even a tenth as good a Ariel bio powder or Persil bio powder.

We use Finish detergent, salt and rinse-aid and find they work a treat, like you say burn’t on food needs a helping hand, such as Fairy Power Spray, then everything comes out clean.

We had a Bosch slimline Dishwasher, funnily enough bought in 1988 (the year I was born), and it was excellent, it got everything clean, even with own brand crappy detergent. So maybe yours was a bad one!! It was far better than modern Bosch. I have a 15 year old Bosch washing machine and thats also excellent, shifts all stains and muck perfectly.

Oliver.

Oliver Shaw 1 reply I though Bosch made Hotpoint machines? 18 years ago Hotpoint made excellent machines, it is only recently mainly since the Merloni take over has the quality some what dropped, maybe now should be called "COLDBLUNT"!!! Also tried Ecover and found it to not be half as good as Finish, your experience is interesting to find that it works! Tried their laundry powder and had to rewash the entire load using my normal biological Ariel and a long 60 wash. Things did not even smell clean, and my work clothes came out asdirty as when they went in. So perhaps having a dishwasher connected to the hot supply is not such a bad thing provided the water is not too hot. Particulally if like you Dave you have a free hot water supply. We could do with free hot water, but cannot fit solar panels due to our house being a listed building. All the best, Oliver.

I though Bosch made Hotpoint machines?

18 years ago Hotpoint made excellent machines, it is only recently mainly since the Merloni take over has the quality some what dropped, maybe now should be called “COLDBLUNT”!!!

Also tried Ecover and found it to not be half as good as Finish, your experience is interesting to find that it works! Tried their laundry powder and had to rewash the entire load using my normal biological Ariel and a long 60 wash. Things did not even smell clean, and my work clothes came out asdirty as when they went in.

So perhaps having a dishwasher connected to the hot supply is not such a bad thing provided the water is not too hot. Particulally if like you Dave you have a free hot water supply. We could do with free hot water, but cannot fit solar panels due to our house being a listed building.

All the best,

Oliver.

Moneysaver 0 replies We have a Belling Dishwasher model number BELFDW150, bought 2017, on a cold fill. We have solar water heating, which raises the temperature in the hot water tank. We have to heat the hot water tank on occasion, so we can have a lot of hot water. We have a plug-in electricity usage monitor which shows the dishwasher uses 27p of electricity on a 30 min cycle and 26p on the Eco cycle. We also have a washing machine with a hot and cold fill. When the hot water tank is hot, the normal cycle costs 9p. When we turn off the hot feed and use cold only, it costs 22p. I rang Belling today and was advised we can use a hot fill into our dishwasher model. Hope this helps. Many thanks for running this very helpful site.

We have a Belling Dishwasher model number BELFDW150, bought 2017, on a cold fill.
We have solar water heating, which raises the temperature in the hot water tank. We have to heat the hot water tank on occasion, so we can have a lot of hot water.
We have a plug-in electricity usage monitor which shows the dishwasher uses 27p of electricity on a 30 min cycle and 26p on the Eco cycle.
We also have a washing machine with a hot and cold fill. When the hot water tank is hot, the normal cycle costs 9p. When we turn off the hot feed and use cold only, it costs 22p.
I rang Belling today and was advised we can use a hot fill into our dishwasher model.
Hope this helps.
Many thanks for running this very helpful site.

stephen 0 replies Most home hot water cylinders are set to temps below 60C (55C is recommended to avoid water based bacteria surviving) , so dishwashers would suffer no harm. Unless you have the boiler constanting heating the water to the desired temp, its likely the hot water is much closer to mid 50C that whatever the tank cylinders thermostat is set to. Most eco settings on dishwashers is 50C. I would be very surprised if any solar thermal or even PV electric to cylinder heater would be the only source or heat and apart from the peak summer, heat the water anywhere close to 60C (unless you have a massive solar array). At dusk that solar heat is already dropping. Would most cold water often not come from attic tanks and in the daytime be heated anyway? Heating water to 50C+ or 40+(washing machines) not require large amounts of power. Hence we are all told to wash clothes at 30 (or less) and use the 50C eco setting on the dishwasher.

Most home hot water cylinders are set to temps below 60C (55C is recommended to avoid water based bacteria surviving) , so dishwashers would suffer no harm. Unless you have the boiler constanting heating the water to the desired temp, its likely the hot water is much closer to mid 50C that whatever the tank cylinders thermostat is set to. Most eco settings on dishwashers is 50C. I would be very surprised if any solar thermal or even PV electric to cylinder heater would be the only source or heat and apart from the peak summer, heat the water anywhere close to 60C (unless you have a massive solar array). At dusk that solar heat is already dropping. Would most cold water often not come from attic tanks and in the daytime be heated anyway? Heating water to 50C+ or 40+(washing machines) not require large amounts of power. Hence we are all told to wash clothes at 30 (or less) and use the 50C eco setting on the dishwasher.

John Holmes 0 replies I have noticed that some dishwasher manufactures are marketing their machines as suitable for warm water inlet up to 60C (one at 70C). We have solar panels and have a device that directs ANY surplus solar energy to the hot tank. For full benefit a large hot tank (which doesn't have to pressured) is needed. The only qualification seems to be that glass ware can become tarnished at higher temps - we use hand washing for these.

I have noticed that some dishwasher manufactures are marketing their machines as suitable for warm water inlet up to 60C (one at 70C). We have solar panels and have a device that directs ANY surplus solar energy to the hot tank. For full benefit a large hot tank (which doesn’t have to pressured) is needed. The only qualification seems to be that glass ware can become tarnished at higher temps – we use hand washing for these.

Hollybe 0 replies I have a indesit dishwasher and brought a y fitting to fit my washing machine and dishwasher to the cold pipe feed , and its very annoying as the hot pipe feed valve is just above the cold one and the valve is in the way !!!!!! I have a combi boiler and would love to put the dishwasher into the hot feed pipe and then my issue is sorted in theory , but could I do this with a indesit dishwasher , as when I research it , it states and advice not to do it its very annoying to the point of no washing is getting done and a dishwasher that's sitting doing nothing . Please help thanks xx

I have a indesit dishwasher and brought a y fitting to fit my washing machine and dishwasher to the cold pipe feed , and its very annoying as the hot pipe feed valve is just above the cold one and the valve is in the way !!!!!! I have a combi boiler and would love to put the dishwasher into the hot feed pipe and then my issue is sorted in theory , but could I do this with a indesit dishwasher , as when I research it , it states and advice not to do it its very annoying to the point of no washing is getting done and a dishwasher that’s sitting doing nothing . Please help thanks xx

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