Washing machine spin speed efficiency
The difference in water extraction between 1200rpm and 1400rpm is just 3% on cottons – translating to a fraction of a kWh less tumble drying energy. The jump from 1200 to 1800rpm makes a more meaningful difference, but even then the energy saving rarely justifies the higher purchase cost of a faster machine unless the tumble dryer runs heavily and constantly. For most households, 1200 to 1400rpm represents an adequate spin speed with better noise, stability, and longevity than faster alternatives.
The Data: What Different Spin Speeds Actually Achieve
The following figures are based on manufacturer data for a 6kg cotton load on a condenser tumble dryer. They show residual moisture after spinning and the resulting drying energy cost.
| Spin speed | Residual moisture in laundry | Energy to tumble dry (kWh) | Approximate tumble dry cost (at 27p/kWh) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1000 rpm | ~55% | ~3.6 kWh | ~97p |
| 1200 rpm | ~52% | ~3.3 kWh | ~89p |
| 1400 rpm | ~49% | ~3.1 kWh | ~84p |
| 1600 rpm | ~46% | ~2.9 kWh | ~78p |
| 1800 rpm | ~43% | ~2.6 kWh | ~70p |
The key observation: moving from 1200 to 1400rpm saves approximately 0.2 kWh per load – roughly 5 pence at current electricity rates. Moving from 1200 to 1800rpm saves approximately 0.7 kWh – roughly 19 pence per load.
These figures apply to cottons only. Most fabrics other than cottons and linen are not spun at maximum speed – synthetics, delicates, and wool are spun at reduced speeds regardless of the machine’s maximum rating. The higher spin speed only delivers its advantage on cotton loads spun at full speed.
The Economics of Faster Spin Speeds
Faster washing machines typically cost more to buy. Whether the running cost saving from a higher spin speed justifies the extra purchase price depends on how much tumble drying is done.
Saving per cotton load: 1200rpm vs 1400rpm (at current electricity rates)
Saving per cotton load: 1200rpm vs 1800rpm
Time to recover a £100 premium on a faster machine (3 loads/week tumble dried)
Spin speed benefit applies to – other fabrics spin at reduced speeds regardless of machine maximum
For a household doing 2 to 3 cotton loads per week and tumble drying all of them, the saving from a 1200rpm versus 1800rpm machine is approximately £10 to £15 per year. A £100 price premium for the faster machine would take roughly 7 to 10 years to recover – by which time the machine may well have been replaced.
The Downsides of Higher Spin Speeds
Disadvantages of high spin speeds
- Noise: Higher spin speeds generate more noise and vibration. A machine spinning at 1600 or 1800rpm is significantly louder than one spinning at 1200rpm
- Stability: Higher speeds generate more centrifugal force, making unbalanced loads more violent. The machine is more likely to move across the floor and more likely to refuse small or unbalanced loads with out-of-balance protection
- Wear and tear: Bearings, motor, suspension, and carbon brushes all experience greater stress at higher speeds. A machine spinning at 1800rpm wears faster than one spinning at 1200rpm – but is not built to a higher standard to compensate. The motor, bearings, and suspension on a 1800rpm machine are typically identical to those on a 1200rpm version of the same model
- Laundry wear: High spin speeds are harder on fabric, particularly on delicate items. Cottons tolerate it better than most other fabrics
Spin speed is one of the most visible headline specifications used to differentiate washing machines and justify price premiums. In many cases, a higher-spin machine is the same machine with a different PCB configuration rather than improved mechanical components. The question to ask is not “what is the maximum spin speed?” but “what speed is appropriate for the laundry being done and does the machine’s build quality support it reliably?”
What Spin Speed Is Right?
1200 to 1400rpm – best for most households
The difference between 1200 and 1400rpm is small in practical terms. 1400rpm has become the default for most mid-range machines and is adequate for most households. It offers a reasonable compromise between drying efficiency, noise, stability, and machine longevity. The marginal benefit of going above this does not justify the increased cost and wear for the majority of users.
The data shows a more meaningful step up at 1800rpm versus 1200rpm – approximately 0.7 kWh per load. For households running the tumble dryer very heavily (5 or more cotton loads per week), the annual saving becomes more relevant. However, the purchase premium and increased wear must still be weighed against the running cost saving. If the machine is not built to premium standards, the extra wear at high speed may reduce its service life enough to offset the energy saving.
Related Guides
Washing Machine Spin SpeedsWhat RPM ratings mean, which fabrics need which speeds, and whether high spin speeds damage clothes.
How Drum Capacity Affects Spin EfficiencyWhy larger drums often achieve higher spin efficiency ratings at the same RPM.
Won’t Spin Small LoadsWhy faster machines with more aggressive out-of-balance protection are more likely to refuse small loads.
Which Is the Best Washing Machine to Buy?Brand quality, price tiers, and what to look for when choosing a machine – spin speed in context.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a 1400rpm washing machine worth more than 1200rpm?
The difference in water extraction is approximately 3% on cottons, saving around 5 pence per load in tumble drying energy at current electricity rates. The practical difference in how wet laundry feels after spin is small. For most households, a 1400rpm machine is adequate and 1200rpm is acceptable – the premium paid for extra spin speed rarely pays back through energy savings alone.
Does a higher spin speed damage clothes?
High spin speeds generate more centrifugal force, which applies more stress to fabric. Cottons and linens tolerate high spin speeds well. Synthetic fabrics, delicates, and wool should not be spun at maximum speed – most machines reduce spin speed automatically on delicate and synthetics programmes. Regular use of maximum spin on unsuitable fabrics accelerates pilling and fibre damage.
Why do some washing machines spin at 1800rpm?
Higher spin speeds are a visible specification used to differentiate products and justify price premiums. In many cases the mechanical components in a 1600 or 1800rpm machine are identical to those in a 1200rpm version – only the PCB configuration is different. The data shows that the efficiency benefit of very high spin speeds is real but modest, and the extra wear on identical mechanical components should be factored into the purchase decision.
36 Comments
Grouped into 29 comment threads.
1 reply Unfortunately I have to disagree with the idea that 1200 and 1400 have the same spin efficiency. We changed to an integrated 1200 washing machine from a 1400 and I've felt that things take longer in the tumble dryer now. On the other hand I've never seen the need for an 1800rpm machine and I don't think it does the clothes or the machine any good...
1 reply I was going to purchase a 1400rpm machine but am now thinking a 1200rpm may be sufficient. I'm thinking of less wear and tear on the motor but this would only be relevant if the motor is the same in both models. Does anyone know if this is the case or does the 1400 model have a bigger motor which would explain why they are more expensive? thanks
I was going to purchase a 1400rpm machine but am now thinking a 1200rpm may be sufficient. I’m thinking of less wear and tear on the motor but this would only be relevant if the motor is the same in both models. Does anyone know if this is the case or does the 1400 model have a bigger motor which would explain why they are more expensive?
thanks
1 reply I currently have a 1600rpm washer. Clothes feel drier and weigh less compared to my mums 1200rpm washer (both Zanussi Jetsystems). Hers is 10yrs old, mine is 18months. I'm now wary of mine not lasting as long, having said that my dad has the predecessor to mine which is also 1600rpm and is now 6yrs old with no signs of packing in. All are heavily used. I myself took out an insurance plan as I'd rather repair it than bin it. I did read somewhere that the diameter of a drum has an effect on spin speed, something like a big diameter drum spinning at 1600 actually spins at a slower speed. Is this true?
I currently have a 1600rpm washer. Clothes feel drier and weigh less compared to my mums 1200rpm washer (both Zanussi Jetsystems). Hers is 10yrs old, mine is 18months. I’m now wary of mine not lasting as long, having said that my dad has the predecessor to mine which is also 1600rpm and is now 6yrs old with no signs of packing in. All are heavily used.
I myself took out an insurance plan as I’d rather repair it than bin it.
I did read somewhere that the diameter of a drum has an effect on spin speed, something like a big diameter drum spinning at 1600 actually spins at a slower speed. Is this true?
Phil,
Congrat’s! You are the first to mention the second critical point : drum diameter.
A slow speed with big drum may dry as much as a high speed with small drum.
The third point is spin time.
All three should be compared.
Doh’s comment on measuring water loss is important if it’s done properly; weighing before and after.
My wife is about to buy a new machine because “our Bosch doesn’t spin fast enough to dry the washing”.
My engineering arguments don’t count. She’ll buy the prettiest one!
1 reply My AEG has performed perfectly for 8 years with an 1800 rpm spin - the max speed lasts for over 1.5 minutes and a full load of cotton requires 40mins in the dryer max. It's less noisy than cheapo Hotpoint crap and came with a 10 year guarantee. The thing is built like a Sherman tank - no plastic anywhere ! .. and another thought, what's all this about wear and tear? If a car promises 130 mph then you expect it to go at 130 mph with little effort. If it's sold as fast and you pay for that option then it should be able to acomplish the specification - unless of course it's an advertising con! ie the cheapo brands
My AEG has performed perfectly for 8 years with an 1800 rpm spin – the max speed lasts for over 1.5 minutes and a full load of cotton requires 40mins in the dryer max. It’s less noisy than cheapo Hotpoint crap and came with a 10 year guarantee. The thing is built like a Sherman tank – no plastic anywhere !
.. and another thought, what’s all this about wear and tear? If a car promises 130 mph then you expect it to go at 130 mph with little effort. If it’s sold as fast and you pay for that option then it should be able to acomplish the specification – unless of course it’s an advertising con! ie the cheapo brands
Likely replying to Mike
Hello Mike: It sounds like your AEG is one of the last to be made that way. Current AEG washing machines are all plastic and hardly any better made than an averagely decent machine. Many modern washing machines spin much faster than they are built to properly endure, with poor quality suspension and out of balance software as well as poor design. It’s mostly about selling features now, by making them spin faster they can charge a lot more but they don’t build the motor or other components any better than their slowest spinning machines.
1 reply But why not spin at full speed? It uses little electricity and the wet load will have been reduced by the slower spinning beforehand. I understand if you're trying to conserve brushes and bearings, although these should be designed for the job!
But why not spin at full speed? It uses little electricity and the wet load will have been reduced by the slower spinning beforehand. I understand if you’re trying to conserve brushes and bearings, although these should be designed for the job!
Likely replying to James P
Hello James P and welcome: I don’t think measuring this difference with scales would produce helpful results. For example, if it was measured and I came up with results that showed an extra 2 grams of water were extracted on a particular spin it wouldn’t really mean anything to me. I wouldn’t have a clue how that affected anything other than it definitely got more water out than a slower spin.
The main idea of my article is to put any differences into a useful context, such as how much quicker the laundry dried on the washing line or more importantly in a tumble dryer and is extracting “more” water always better per se?
One of my major points was that, let’s say a really fast spin speed got a cupful of extra water out. Does that matter enough to pay £70 more for the machine, suffer extra wear and tear, noise – maybe even more than a 12 month reduction in lifespan – or do we need to arrive at an optimum spin speed and be happy with that? That’s the last thing manufacturer’s would want though :-)
I think Chris was building on the point that I made in my article. Spinning very fast, especially with many modern washing machine’s being poorly constructed has hidden cost – if drying on the line you can spin slower, reducing the stresses strain and wear on the washing machine helping to increase its lifespan. The cost would only be extra time on the line. It’s not for everyone but it does make sense if you are prepared to do it.
1 reply Why didnt you simply weigh the test towels as they came out of the various spin cycles? You only needed one towel to do this.
Why didnt you simply weigh the test towels as they came out of the various spin cycles? You only needed one towel to do this.
Likely replying to doh
Hello doh: I think that’s how people like Which? do it, but I think you would need very sophisticated weighing equipment to measure the difference in weight between two items spun at different speeds. As my article describes, there is very little difference in the amount of water extracted when spinning just a few hundred revolutions per minute so I don’t think I would have been able to detect the difference in weight without very sensitive equipment.
0 replies In the long run Mossy, in the sense of it puts a lot less strain on the machine. I wouldn't think there'd be any noticeable difference in electricity usage by dropping down to a slower spin speed (although technically there would be some). It's definitely worth experimenting with slower spin speeds if leaving them out for extended periods on a sunny day.
In the long run Mossy, in the sense of it puts a lot less strain on the machine. I wouldn’t think there’d be any noticeable difference in electricity usage by dropping down to a slower spin speed (although technically there would be some). It’s definitely worth experimenting with slower spin speeds if leaving them out for extended periods on a sunny day.
0 replies So if you don't use a tumble dryer and are line drying in the height of summer while you're at work for 8 hours, a 600 lower spin is more economical.
So if you don’t use a tumble dryer and are line drying in the height of summer while you’re at work for 8 hours, a 600 lower spin is more economical.
0 replies I was wondering if this could be compareable with spin drying performance? I m doubting between a "spin drying performance" A grade, or a B grade. The machines differ 50 pnds... but based upon your article it could differ 11% (comparing the 1200 for B grade with 1800 for A grade in your table), which would be decreased by 0.7kwh. I haven't calculated anything, however, based upon some experiences online I could save 33% because some people are talking about 60min drying after @1200 (again comparing with B grade) and some say they dry 40min after @1800 (A grade). I then deducted 33% of the yearly costs of the drying machine, thats the best case; I could get that extra cost of 50 pnds back in 2-3 yrs. I am going with the B grade though, because I m selling my dry and washing over a year. This brings me to my question: what is your opinion on this if I would keep both machines, considering they would have an average lifetime of 7 yrs? Go with the "spin drying performance" A grade or B grade and why? I would appreciate aby feedback and thanks for the article!
I was wondering if this could be compareable with spin drying performance? I m doubting between a “spin drying performance” A grade, or a B grade. The machines differ 50 pnds… but based upon your article it could differ 11% (comparing the 1200 for B grade with 1800 for A grade in your table), which would be decreased by 0.7kwh. I haven’t calculated anything, however, based upon some experiences online I could save 33% because some people are talking about 60min drying after @1200 (again comparing with B grade) and some say they dry 40min after @1800 (A grade). I then deducted 33% of the yearly costs of the drying machine, thats the best case; I could get that extra cost of 50 pnds back in 2-3 yrs. I am going with the B grade though, because I m selling my dry and washing over a year.
This brings me to my question: what is your opinion on this if I would keep both machines, considering they would have an average lifetime of 7 yrs? Go with the “spin drying performance” A grade or B grade and why?
I would appreciate aby feedback and thanks for the article!
0 replies Unfortunately they often make the basic models deliberately lacking in genuinely useful or even virtually essential features to encourage an upgrade. I usually think the middle range of many products is the best, with bottom level missing features and top level full of bells and whistles. There are of course plenty of exceptions to this rule, which is why it's all so complicated.
Unfortunately they often make the basic models deliberately lacking in genuinely useful or even virtually essential features to encourage an upgrade. I usually think the middle range of many products is the best, with bottom level missing features and top level full of bells and whistles. There are of course plenty of exceptions to this rule, which is why it’s all so complicated.
0 replies This is a great topic. I am a software engineer for consumer products and so know the sort of techniques used to trick consumers. Most products have the similar hardware and software and are just configured to meet a certain spec. Although this article is not entirely scientific, there is enough info here to back up my theory that spending more money on extra features is a false economy, Now all I need is to find a solid Bosch washing machine that spins <1400Rpm :-)
This is a great topic. I am a software engineer for consumer products and so know the sort of techniques used to trick consumers. Most products have the similar hardware and software and are just configured to meet a certain spec. Although this article is not entirely scientific, there is enough info here to back up my theory that spending more money on extra features is a false economy,
Now all I need is to find a solid Bosch washing machine that spins <1400Rpm :-)
0 replies Cheapo Hotpoints? I had two, the first one we bought 2nd hand and it lasted us over 5 years, the 2nd one went like a trojan through two babies using washable nappies and only needed the brushes changing once after 10 years. I won't buy anything else! Excellent site and useful info about the spin speeds. Thanks
Cheapo Hotpoints? I had two, the first one we bought 2nd hand and it lasted us over 5 years, the 2nd one went like a trojan through two babies using washable nappies and only needed the brushes changing once after 10 years. I won’t buy anything else!
Excellent site and useful info about the spin speeds. Thanks
0 replies Thanks for your contribution Marcus. Unfortunately the official average life of a modern washing machine is a mere 7 years. Also, electricity costs have increased but drying costs may have decreased significantly too for many dryers as they have become more efficient. My AEG dryer has a fridge-type compressor in it which stores heat and re-uses it. I think the 1800 spins may have died out because manufacturer's realised their current build quality wasn't good enough to cope. We are already experiencing some washing machines apparently not coping with fast spins (Washing machines exploding: What's going on?)
Thanks for your contribution Marcus. Unfortunately the official average life of a modern washing machine is a mere 7 years. Also, electricity costs have increased but drying costs may have decreased significantly too for many dryers as they have become more efficient. My AEG dryer has a fridge-type compressor in it which stores heat and re-uses it.
I think the 1800 spins may have died out because manufacturer’s realised their current build quality wasn’t good enough to cope. We are already experiencing some washing machines apparently not coping with fast spins (Washing machines exploding: What’s going on?)
0 replies PS As per the above calculations, the difference between a 1200- and 1800-spin speed would now be 10p per dryer-load. At three loads per week for a year, this is £16. The faster dry may be desirable, too, but this may be offset by additional wear-and-tear on the machine. Still, that £16 will no-dount soon be £20 - and that would certainly make an additional £100 for the 1800 worth it, I suggest. If you manage, as we hope, to get 10 years out of your machine, that's £200 over its lifetime as opposed to the 1200.
PS As per the above calculations, the difference between a 1200- and 1800-spin speed would now be 10p per dryer-load. At three loads per week for a year, this is £16. The faster dry may be desirable, too, but this may be offset by additional wear-and-tear on the machine. Still, that £16 will no-dount soon be £20 – and that would certainly make an additional £100 for the 1800 worth it, I suggest. If you manage, as we hope, to get 10 years out of your machine, that’s £200 over its lifetime as opposed to the 1200.
0 replies The drying costs noted above would, generally, be nearer 50p now. Which? uses a figure of 14.5p per kWh for its running-cost calculations as at this date, as opposed to the 10p quoted when this article was written - so it seems appropriate for us to (particularly as Which? model reviews are often mentioned on this site). We all know that electricity prices are only only going in one direction (!) - so running cost / efficiency issues are increasingly significant, I suggest, in model choice - including spin speed / water extraction efficiency (particularly if not line-drying but using a dryer...) If you manage to line-dry most of the time, this matters proportionately less, of course... There seem to be virtually no 1800 spin-speed machines on the market, but, other things being equal, I'd pay more - how much more? - for the fastest available spin. My current 1200-spin Bosch will be replaced by at least a 1600- next time. In order to be 'green', and to reduce electricity consumption, I line-dry when weather permits (though I use the dryer for 10 mins after line drying to soften and remove lint). But winter means more dryer use.
The drying costs noted above would, generally, be nearer 50p now. Which? uses a figure of 14.5p per kWh for its running-cost calculations as at this date, as opposed to the 10p quoted when this article was written – so it seems appropriate for us to (particularly as Which? model reviews are often mentioned on this site). We all know that electricity prices are only only going in one direction (!) – so running cost / efficiency issues are increasingly significant, I suggest, in model choice – including spin speed / water extraction efficiency (particularly if not line-drying but using a dryer…) If you manage to line-dry most of the time, this matters proportionately less, of course…
There seem to be virtually no 1800 spin-speed machines on the market, but, other things being equal, I’d pay more – how much more? – for the fastest available spin. My current 1200-spin Bosch will be replaced by at least a 1600- next time.
In order to be ‘green’, and to reduce electricity consumption, I line-dry when weather permits (though I use the dryer for 10 mins after line drying to soften and remove lint). But winter means more dryer use.
0 replies A related tip: if you have a control to select the spin speed, you might as well spin at a slow speed if it's a sunny day and you're going to dry your washing outside. I check the forecast for a sunny day, do my washing then, and only need to spin at 600 rpm. Our machine's fastest spin speed rarely gets used during the summer.
A related tip: if you have a control to select the spin speed, you might as well spin at a slow speed if it’s a sunny day and you’re going to dry your washing outside. I check the forecast for a sunny day, do my washing then, and only need to spin at 600 rpm. Our machine’s fastest spin speed rarely gets used during the summer.
0 replies I think doh has a point. Digital kitchen scales can usually resolve to the nearest gram, and even the old-fashioned balance type are pretty sensitive - far more so than the spring/dial variety used in the intervening 50 years! Checking the rpm might be an idea, though. I wouldn't be at all surprised to discover that it only applies to empty drums and well run-in motors...
I think doh has a point. Digital kitchen scales can usually resolve to the nearest gram, and even the old-fashioned balance type are pretty sensitive – far more so than the spring/dial variety used in the intervening 50 years!
Checking the rpm might be an idea, though. I wouldn’t be at all surprised to discover that it only applies to empty drums and well run-in motors…
0 replies Very good point River. Maybe all washing machines would last longer - even the cheap and nasty ones - if people used the slowest spin speed or choose not to have a final spin, if there's that option. Then put the washing straight into a spin dryer for just 4 minutes. Now the washing will be virtually dry and that would save a fortune on tumble drying costs! It's a matter of having the space for a spin dryer and the extra room needed to collect the water if the spin dryer doesn't have a pump. There is a blog section on the White Goods Help website about the poor quality of modern washing machines. Here's the link to it: Why don't most modern washing machines last very long?
Very good point River.
Maybe all washing machines would last longer – even the cheap and nasty ones – if people used the slowest spin speed or choose not to have a final spin, if there’s that option. Then put the washing straight into a spin dryer for just 4 minutes. Now the washing will be virtually dry and that would save a fortune on tumble drying costs!
It’s a matter of having the space for a spin dryer and the extra room needed to collect the water if the spin dryer doesn’t have a pump.
There is a blog section on the White Goods Help website about the poor quality of modern washing machines. Here’s the link to it:
0 replies l have an ancient 1957 "ACME" spin drier.This is very much overengineered and weighs a ton,but it gets out FAR more water than any automatic washer will.lt doesn't surprise me that many new machines fail prematurely,they're not made to last and parts as you say are extortionately priced.Hardly a very "green" way of carrying on!So they get dumped and replaced by more rubbish build machines,which will also go phut.then the idiots in charge have the front to complain about where's all this scrap going to go!Madness.
l have an ancient 1957 “ACME” spin drier.This is very much overengineered and weighs a ton,but it gets out FAR more water than any automatic washer will.lt doesn’t surprise me that many new machines fail prematurely,they’re not made to last and parts as you say are extortionately priced.Hardly a very “green” way of carrying on!So they get dumped and replaced by more rubbish build machines,which will also go phut.then the idiots in charge have the front to complain about where’s all this scrap going to go!Madness.
0 replies This is a very interesting topic . I have lived in the US for about 15 years, and work on commercial dishwashers in Hospitals/ restaurants etc. Because of the high temps that are required to sanitize dishes , many of the built in features are purely safety related, and have little to do with the washing side of things. Over the years manufacturers have moved from mechanical sliding rod type of safety interlocks, (to prevent doors being accidentally opened during use and scalding the operator) to magnetically operated reed switch interlocks , that provide the same protection to the user, but at a considerably , cheaper manufacturing cost. The down side of course is that the overall reliability of the magnetic interlock system is actually way worse, it wont stand up to the slime and grease that gets all over it. and the end result is a less reliable product. The cost to the customer is higher , and they get a less reliable product. As you say in your blogs, it is all down to marketing and trying to keep the market share, only the customer suffers.
This is a very interesting topic . I have lived in the US for about 15 years, and work on commercial dishwashers in Hospitals/ restaurants etc. Because of the high temps that are required to sanitize dishes , many of the built in features are purely safety related, and have little to do with the washing side of things. Over the years manufacturers have moved from mechanical sliding rod type of safety interlocks, (to prevent doors being accidentally opened during use and scalding the operator) to magnetically operated reed switch interlocks , that provide the same protection to the user, but at a considerably , cheaper manufacturing cost. The down side of course is that the overall reliability of the magnetic interlock system is actually way worse, it wont stand up to the slime and grease that gets all over it. and the end result is a less reliable product. The cost to the customer is higher , and they get a less reliable product.
As you say in your blogs, it is all down to marketing and trying to keep the market share, only the customer suffers.
0 replies This is a great post. Everyone should read this before they go out and buy a new dryer or set. In other words don't get duped by the slick salesman trying to upsell you on the faster spin cycles. As you mentioned you would have to do 2500 loads of laundry to recoup that expense. Your dryer will more than likely be broke down and gone by that time.
This is a great post. Everyone should read this before they go out and buy a new dryer or set. In other words don’t get duped by the slick salesman trying to upsell you on the faster spin cycles. As you mentioned you would have to do 2500 loads of laundry to recoup that expense. Your dryer will more than likely be broke down and gone by that time.
0 replies The spin dryers used very fast but small motors mounted very close to the drum pulley via a very small belt. They could run at high speeds but couldn't turn a heavy drum full of wet laundry. They had very small gear/pulley ratios so less speed was lost between the spinning motor and the pulley it was turning. Front loading drums needed a bigger pulley to reduce the strain on the motor when turning large wet loads full of water and it had to be connected by a much larger belt. Both of which means a lot of speed is lost between the rate of the revolving motor and the subsequent revolving drum. The motor on a front loading washing machine probably spins at similar speeds to the old twin tub, it's the gearing that results in lower drum speeds.
The spin dryers used very fast but small motors mounted very close to the drum pulley via a very small belt. They could run at high speeds but couldn’t turn a heavy drum full of wet laundry. They had very small gear/pulley ratios so less speed was lost between the spinning motor and the pulley it was turning.
Front loading drums needed a bigger pulley to reduce the strain on the motor when turning large wet loads full of water and it had to be connected by a much larger belt. Both of which means a lot of speed is lost between the rate of the revolving motor and the subsequent revolving drum. The motor on a front loading washing machine probably spins at similar speeds to the old twin tub, it’s the gearing that results in lower drum speeds.
0 replies If the intention is to make clothes drier after spinning, why not use an old fashioned spin dryer, as they would spin clothes at about 2800 rpm! Maybe faster? Then put the clothes into a tumble dryer and see how quick they would dry. I'm sure the old spin dryers (and the spinners in twin tubs) had faster spin speeds because the drum is mounted vertically? I wonder why washing machines or washer dryers don't spin as fast as the old spin dryers? I know some launderettes have a spin dryer which customers use after the clothes have been spun in the washing machine!
If the intention is to make clothes drier after spinning, why not use an old fashioned spin dryer, as they would spin clothes at about 2800 rpm! Maybe faster? Then put the clothes into a tumble dryer and see how quick they would dry.
I’m sure the old spin dryers (and the spinners in twin tubs) had faster spin speeds because the drum is mounted vertically? I wonder why washing machines or washer dryers don’t spin as fast as the old spin dryers? I know some launderettes have a spin dryer which customers use after the clothes have been spun in the washing machine!
0 replies thanks for explaining this to the uneducated/uninitiated. My machine broke yesterday. With a family of 6 there'll be a new washing machine in tonight (machine has probably reached its life span) - you just saved me at least £50.
thanks for explaining this to the uneducated/uninitiated. My machine broke yesterday. With a family of 6 there’ll be a new washing machine in tonight (machine has probably reached its life span) – you just saved me at least £50.
0 replies Some years back we were using a Hoover 1300 condenser washer dryer. I can't remember how it came about but we swapped it for a Hotpoint washer dryer which was much newer as I'd somehow acquire it for nothing. I hadn't realised it was only an 800 spin. However, Mrs. Washerhelp never complained once despite the fact that her old one spun 500 RPM faster. You can trust me when I say she would have been more than happy to complain if she had found her washing was coming out much wetter. I do personally believe that 1200 RPM for cottons is probably an optimum spin, everything else can be spun at 800 rpm perfectly adequately and with less wear and tear on the laundry and washing machine. There is nowhere near the difference in real-world results that manufacturers would have people believe. I've maintained for years that spin speeds are merely a marketing tool, and that the slow evolution of an extra 100 revs at a time mimics the same ridiculous managed-evolution of the good old bladed shavers. For years all shavers had just one blade, then it was "discovered" that two blades shaved even better. Two blades ruled until it was "discovered" that three is even better. Then miraculously someone discovered that four is even better still. Then someone launched a 5 bladed razor and so on.. According to research I found, the single blade razor dominated for 70 years, the twin blade shaver lasted 27 years and the triple lasted 5 years - does it really take all this time to discover an extra blade is better? Or do they just introduce them every so often to revitalise the market? It's pure marketing designed to stimulate new sales and get one up on competition. I don't believe shaver manufacturers couldn't discover the optimum blades needed for the best shave and stick to it and I can't believe washing machine manufacturers don't know which is the optimum spin speed for cottons and then make all their machines use it. The only reason for not doing so - bearing in mind it costs virtually nothing extra to make a washer spin faster and many are actually deliberately made to spin slower using resistors - is to be able to offer a perceived extra value feature people believe is worth paying more for.
Some years back we were using a Hoover 1300 condenser washer dryer. I can’t remember how it came about but we swapped it for a Hotpoint washer dryer which was much newer as I’d somehow acquire it for nothing. I hadn’t realised it was only an 800 spin. However, Mrs. Washerhelp never complained once despite the fact that her old one spun 500 RPM faster.
You can trust me when I say she would have been more than happy to complain if she had found her washing was coming out much wetter.
I do personally believe that 1200 RPM for cottons is probably an optimum spin, everything else can be spun at 800 rpm perfectly adequately and with less wear and tear on the laundry and washing machine. There is nowhere near the difference in real-world results that manufacturers would have people believe.
I’ve maintained for years that spin speeds are merely a marketing tool, and that the slow evolution of an extra 100 revs at a time mimics the same ridiculous managed-evolution of the good old bladed shavers. For years all shavers had just one blade, then it was “discovered” that two blades shaved even better. Two blades ruled until it was “discovered” that three is even better. Then miraculously someone discovered that four is even better still. Then someone launched a 5 bladed razor and so on.. According to research I found, the single blade razor dominated for 70 years, the twin blade shaver lasted 27 years and the triple lasted 5 years – does it really take all this time to discover an extra blade is better? Or do they just introduce them every so often to revitalise the market?
It’s pure marketing designed to stimulate new sales and get one up on competition. I don’t believe shaver manufacturers couldn’t discover the optimum blades needed for the best shave and stick to it and I can’t believe washing machine manufacturers don’t know which is the optimum spin speed for cottons and then make all their machines use it. The only reason for not doing so – bearing in mind it costs virtually nothing extra to make a washer spin faster and many are actually deliberately made to spin slower using resistors – is to be able to offer a perceived extra value feature people believe is worth paying more for.
0 replies My washing machine is an 800rpm spin and is perfectly adequate. I had a 1300rpm previous to this and the laundry felt virtually no drier even the towels, and the tumble drying times are just about the same give or take 5 minutes! So extra fast speed would be a waste of time IMO. The drier is a Crosslee White Knight "A" Class if you are wondering, not used in the 8 hour mode though, but still cheaper to run than a normal drier. HTH, Oliver.
My washing machine is an 800rpm spin and is perfectly adequate. I had a 1300rpm previous to this and the laundry felt virtually no drier even the towels, and the tumble drying times are just about the same give or take 5 minutes! So extra fast speed would be a waste of time IMO.
The drier is a Crosslee White Knight “A” Class if you are wondering, not used in the 8 hour mode though, but still cheaper to run than a normal drier.
HTH,
Oliver.
0 replies Many thanks.
Many thanks.
0 replies I have to echo the comments left by Donna above. Your site has been fabulous research info and I know exactly what i am looking for in my price range now. thanks.
I have to echo the comments left by Donna above. Your site has been fabulous research info and I know exactly what i am looking for in my price range now. thanks.
0 replies This has been brilliant information. I ordered a 1200 rpm machine and was worried about the dryness of the clothes and was going to cancel it and pay an extra £200 for the 1400rpm machine. After reading this I am definately not going to waste my money !!! Thank you, fantastic information.
This has been brilliant information. I ordered a 1200 rpm machine and was worried about the dryness of the clothes and was going to cancel it and pay an extra £200 for the 1400rpm machine. After reading this I am definately not going to waste my money !!! Thank you, fantastic information.
Unfortunately I have to disagree with the idea that 1200 and 1400 have the same spin efficiency. We changed to an integrated 1200 washing machine from a 1400 and I’ve felt that things take longer in the tumble dryer now. On the other hand I’ve never seen the need for an 1800rpm machine and I don’t think it does the clothes or the machine any good…
Likely replying to guest
Hello guest. If the 1400 washer had a bigger drum than the 1200 spin one it would make a bigger difference (Integrated washing machines sometimes have smaller drum capacity and the smaller the capacity the less effect spin has), but if drums are the same capacity, the official figures show there’s only a 3% difference in dampness between a 1200 and 1400 spin. Although obviously it will take longer in the dryer, the extra cost is negligible and was only around 3 or 4 p a load at the time of writing. The faster spin machines are subject to more wear and tear, and can cost up to £50 more so it’s not necessarily as critical most people think unless someone tumble dries everything.