Potential health risks from unused hot water tap
A disused hot water tap behind a washing machine can leave stagnant, lukewarm water trapped in the pipework, ideal conditions for Legionella bacteria to grow. The domestic risk is low, but it is easily eliminated by fitting a blanking cap to the unused tap or having the redundant pipework removed by a plumber.
Why does an old hot water tap create a health risk?
Temperature range in which Legionella bacteria multiply most rapidly
Almost all washing machines sold in the UK today use a single cold-water supply
A blanking cap on the unused hot tap costs very little and eliminates the risk
Decades ago, washing machines in the UK commonly used both a hot and a cold water supply. Homes were plumbed accordingly, with a dedicated hot tap installed alongside the cold one behind the machine.
Modern washing machines are cold-fill only. They draw cold water and heat it internally, so the hot tap is no longer connected or used. The problem is what happens inside the pipework when that tap sits idle.
Legionella pneumophila is a naturally occurring bacteria found in water. It multiplies rapidly in warm, stagnant water between 20°C and 45°C, and can cause Legionnaires’ disease – a potentially serious form of pneumonia – if contaminated water droplets or aerosols are inhaled. The UK Health Security Agency (UKHSA) and the HSE both identify stagnant pipework as a contributing risk factor.
A disused tap that remains connected to the hot water supply creates what plumbers call a dead leg – a section of pipe with no regular water flow. The water inside stagnates, settles at a lukewarm temperature, and creates the exact conditions in which Legionella can take hold.
How does the risk arise with a washing machine specifically?
The typical scenario is straightforward. A cold-fill washing machine is installed and connected to the cold tap. The old hot tap is turned off and forgotten. No one uses it, but it remains connected to the hot water system through a short section of pipe inside the wall.
That section of pipe never flushes. The water inside it sits at an intermediate temperature for weeks, months, or years. If the tap is ever accidentally opened during a house move, a repair visit, or a routine check, there is a risk of dispersing bacteria into the air.
| Scenario | Risk level | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Hot tap in regular use, water flowing freely | Very low | Regular flow prevents stagnation |
| Hot tap turned off but still connected to supply | Low to moderate | Dead-leg pipework can harbour bacteria over time |
| Hot tap capped off with a blanking cap | Very low | No pathway for stagnant water or aerosol dispersal |
| Redundant pipework fully removed by a plumber | Eliminated | No dead-leg pipework remaining |
How serious is the risk in a domestic home?
It is important to keep this in perspective. Legionnaires’ disease is predominantly associated with large, complex water systems – cooling towers, hotel plumbing, hospital water supplies, and commercial buildings. The HSE acknowledges that the risk in a typical private home is low.
A single disused domestic tap does not carry the same risk as a commercial water system. However, the risk is not zero, and the fix is simple enough that there is no good reason to leave it unaddressed.
Water systems in domestic premises present a low Legionella risk, provided basic precautions are taken. Flushing out infrequently used outlets regularly is a straightforward and effective control measure.
Health and Safety Executive (HSE), Legionella Guidance for Domestic Premises
Older adults, smokers, people with weakened immune systems, and those with chronic lung conditions are more susceptible to Legionnaires’ disease. If anyone in the household falls into one of these groups, acting promptly is particularly advisable.
What should you do about an old hot water tap?
There are two practical solutions depending on your situation and budget. Both are far preferable to simply leaving the tap turned off and forgotten.
Option 1: Fit a blanking cap
A blanking cap screws or pushes onto the tap outlet, sealing it completely. This prevents the tap from being accidentally opened and removes any risk of aerosol dispersal. Blanking caps are inexpensive and the job takes minutes. See our guide: how to blank off the tap.
Option 2: Remove the pipework
A qualified plumber can isolate and remove the redundant hot water pipework entirely. This eliminates any dead-leg pipe inside the wall and is the definitive, permanent fix, especially recommended if the pipework runs any significant distance. See our washing machine installation guide for installation context.
Need a hand with your washing machine?
If you are not confident working around your plumbing or water supply, a qualified engineer can help. Book a repair visit or find the parts you need using the links below.
What if my machine is already connected to cold only?
If your washing machine is connected solely to the cold tap, which is the case for almost all modern machines, then the hot tap behind the machine is entirely redundant. Simply having it turned off is not sufficient.
Cap off the old hot tap using a blanking cap, or ask a plumber to remove the pipework. See our guide on converting a hot-and-cold fill machine to cold-only supply for full details on managing this transition.
Does it matter if the hot tap is still being used?
If your washing machine is actively using the hot water supply, as some older twin-fill machines do, then water flows through the tap with every wash cycle. Regular flow significantly reduces the risk of stagnation and bacterial growth.
That said, very few washing machines sold in the UK today use a hot fill. Check the back of your machine: cold-fill-only models have a single inlet hose connection. Twin-fill machines have two, one marked hot, one marked cold.
Can you connect a cold-fill machine to the hot tap?
Some people wonder whether feeding a cold-fill machine with hot water could improve washing performance or reduce energy consumption. Whitegoods Help does not recommend this.
Why it is a bad idea
- Cold-fill machines are calibrated to heat water from cold – feeding them hot water disrupts temperature sensing
- It can cause wash performance problems and damage internal components
- It may invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty
What to do instead
- Connect the machine to the cold water supply only
- Cap off or have a plumber remove the old hot tap
- Let the machine manage water heating as designed
For a full explanation, read our guide: can you connect a cold-fill washing machine to the hot tap?
What should you check behind your washing machine?
Not sure what you have? Follow these steps to assess the situation quickly.
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Pull out the machine slightly and look at the water connections at the rear. Count the number of inlet hoses – one means cold-fill only, two means hot-and-cold fill.
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Locate all taps on the wall. If there are two taps (one cold, one hot) but only one hose connected to the machine, the hot tap is redundant.
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Check whether the hot tap is open or closed. If open but unconnected, close it immediately. Either way, it should be capped off.
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Fit a blanking cap to the hot tap outlet, or contact a plumber to remove the dead-leg pipework entirely. See our guide to blanking off the hot tap for full instructions.
Any work involving your home’s hot water pipework should be carried out by a qualified plumber. Do not attempt to cut or modify pipework yourself unless you are fully competent to do so. If you have broader concerns about Legionella risk in your water system, particularly in larger or older properties, contact a water hygiene specialist. The HSE provides free Legionella guidance for domestic properties, including landlord responsibilities. Landlords have a legal duty of care under the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 to assess and control Legionella risks.
Related guides
Frequently asked questions about old hot water taps and Legionella
Can a washing machine cause Legionnaires’ disease?
A washing machine itself is not a source of Legionella. The risk comes from stagnant water sitting in a disused hot water tap or dead-leg pipe that remains connected to the hot supply behind the machine. If that water is disturbed and aerosolised, there is a theoretical inhalation risk. In practice, domestic risk is considered low, but capping off unused hot taps removes it entirely.
What is a dead leg in plumbing?
A dead leg is a section of pipe connected to the water supply with no regular flow through it. Water stagnates inside, and if the pipe is part of the hot water system, it can settle at temperatures between 20°C and 45°C, the ideal range for Legionella bacteria to multiply. Dead legs are a recognised risk factor in both commercial and domestic water systems.
How do I know if my washing machine uses hot and cold fill?
Check the back of your machine. A cold-fill-only machine has a single inlet hose connection, usually marked with a blue label or the word “cold”. A hot-and-cold-fill machine has two connections, one for hot, one for cold. The vast majority of washing machines sold in the UK since the early 1990s are cold-fill only.
Is it safe to just turn off the old hot tap and leave it?
Turning the tap off is better than leaving it open, but it does not fully resolve the issue. The section of pipe between the closed tap and the main hot water supply can still hold stagnant water. Fitting a blanking cap to the tap outlet, or having the pipework removed, is the proper fix.
Can I connect my cold-fill machine to the hot tap to save energy?
This is not recommended. Cold-fill machines are designed and calibrated to heat water from cold. Feeding them a hot water supply can interfere with temperature sensing, compromise wash performance, damage internal components, and may invalidate the manufacturer’s warranty. Connect cold-fill machines to the cold supply only.
Who is responsible for Legionella risk in a rented property?
Landlords have a legal duty of care under the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 and the associated Approved Code of Practice (L8) to assess and control Legionella risks in rental properties. This includes identifying and addressing dead-leg pipework. Tenants who suspect a risk should report it to their landlord in writing. The HSE’s guidance covers landlord responsibilities in full.
Can I just flush the hot tap occasionally instead of capping it off?
Flushing infrequently used outlets is a recognised control measure cited in HSE guidance, and is a reasonable interim approach if capping is not yet practical. Run the hot tap fully open for one to two minutes at least once a week to flush out any standing water and prevent stagnation. However, this only works if you remember to do it consistently, and the fundamental dead-leg pipework remains in place. Fitting a blanking cap or having the pipework removed is a more reliable long-term solution, particularly if anyone in the household is in a higher-risk group.
Keep a fire extinguisher near your appliances
A small home fire extinguisher rated for electrical fires is a practical and relatively inexpensive addition to any kitchen or utility room where appliances are kept. It will not stop every fire, but it can prevent a small electrical fire from becoming a large one in the critical first moments. Always evacuate and call 999 first if a fire is out of control or there is any doubt about your safety.
Never attempt to tackle a fire if it is already spreading, if there is significant smoke, or if you are not confident it is safe to do so. Evacuate the building, close doors behind you, and call 999. A fire extinguisher is only appropriate for a very small, contained fire in its earliest stage. Your safety is always the priority.
Why are appliance fires a real risk?
Thousands of house fires are started each year by white goods appliances – washing machines, tumble dryers, dishwashers, and fridge freezers. These fires can start during use or, in the case of fridge freezers in particular, when the appliance is switched off and unattended.
Whitegoods Help has documented many cases over the years where people were alerted to an appliance fire but had nothing available to tackle it. In most cases the only options are to evacuate and wait for the fire service. By the time the fire brigade arrives, even a small initial fire can have caused extensive damage. A fire extinguisher does not guarantee a different outcome, but in the right circumstances it can significantly reduce damage, or prevent a fire from taking hold at all.
There have been cases where people have tried to carry burning appliances outside. This is very dangerous and risks spreading the fire, causing burns, and inhaling toxic fumes. If an appliance is on fire, leave the room, close the door, evacuate the building, and call 999.
Smoke alarms vs fire extinguishers: what is the difference?
There have been sustained public campaigns in the UK over many years promoting smoke alarms. As a result, the majority of UK homes now have at least one. Smoke alarms are excellent at alerting people to a fire early, but they do nothing to put it out.
Home fire extinguishers have not received the same level of promotion, and they remain uncommon in UK homes. The two forms of protection serve different purposes and are complementary: an alarm alerts you, an extinguisher gives you the option to act.
Smoke alarms
Alert you to a fire early, giving time to evacuate. Essential in every home, test monthly and replace batteries regularly. They cannot stop or slow a fire.
Home fire extinguisher
Gives you the means to tackle a very small fire in its earliest stage before it spreads. Only appropriate when the fire is contained and escape routes are clear. Requires basic familiarity with how to use it.
Having both provides layered protection. An alarm alerts you early enough that a small fire might still be tackled. An extinguisher gives you a way to act on that alert.
Which type of fire extinguisher should you buy?
Not all fire extinguishers are suitable for electrical fires. Using the wrong type on an electrical fire can be dangerous. When searching for a home extinguisher, look specifically for one rated for electrical fires, sometimes described as suitable for Class E or listed as appropriate for electrical equipment.
| Type | Colour code | Suitable for electrical fires? | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| CO2 (carbon dioxide) | Black label | Yes | The most common choice for electrical and kitchen fires. Leaves no residue. Standard in public buildings. |
| Dry powder | Blue label | Yes | Effective on multiple fire types but leaves significant residue. Can obscure vision. Not ideal in enclosed spaces. |
| Water | Red label | No | Never use on electrical fires. Water conducts electricity and creates a risk of electrocution. |
| Foam | Cream label | No (unless rated) | Standard foam is not suitable for electrical fires. Some specialist formulations are rated for electrical use, check the label carefully. |
| Wet chemical | Yellow label | No | Designed for cooking oil fires. Not suitable for electrical fires. |
A CO2 extinguisher is generally the most appropriate choice. It is safe to use on electrical equipment, leaves no residue, and is widely available. Make sure any extinguisher carries the relevant British Standard (BS EN 3) marking.
Where should you keep a home fire extinguisher?
Placement matters. A fire extinguisher is useless if it cannot be reached quickly when needed.
- Kitchen: where the majority of appliance fires start. Mount it on the wall near the exit, not next to the cooker or appliances themselves. You need to be able to reach it without passing through the fire.
- Utility room or garage: if washing machines, tumble dryers, or other appliances are kept there, a second extinguisher in that space is worthwhile.
- Near but not next to appliances: position it so you can access it from the doorway, not only from deep inside the room where an appliance fire might block your route.
- Make sure everyone in the household knows where it is and has a basic understanding of how to use it. An extinguisher that cannot be found in an emergency is no help.
How do you reduce the risk of appliance fires?
A fire extinguisher is a last resort. Reducing the likelihood of an appliance fire in the first place is the more important goal.
- Do not leave washing machines, tumble dryers, or dishwashers running when you are out or in bed. See our guide: risks of leaving appliances running unattended.
- Check whether any of your appliances are subject to product recalls or safety notices. See: appliance safety notices.
- Clean tumble dryer filters after every use. Lint accumulation is a leading cause of dryer fires.
- Do not use extension leads or multi-socket adaptors for high-wattage appliances such as washing machines or tumble dryers. They should be plugged directly into a wall socket.
- Test smoke alarms monthly. Replace batteries annually or when the alarm chirps.
More on appliance fire risks
For full context on fire risk from white goods appliances, recall checks, and safe usage practices, see our related guides.
Frequently asked questions about home fire extinguishers
Should I have a fire extinguisher at home for appliance fires?
It is a sensible precaution, particularly in kitchens and utility rooms where appliances are used. A small CO2 extinguisher suitable for electrical fires does not cost much, takes up little space, and could make a significant difference in the first moments of a small appliance fire. It should be treated as complementary to smoke alarms, not as a replacement for them.
What type of fire extinguisher is safe to use on appliance fires?
For electrical and appliance fires, CO2 (carbon dioxide) extinguishers are the most appropriate choice for home use. They are safe on electrical equipment, leave no residue, and are widely available. Never use a water extinguisher on an electrical fire – water conducts electricity and creates a risk of electrocution. Always check that any extinguisher you buy is rated for electrical fires and carries the relevant British Standard marking.
When should I attempt to use a fire extinguisher?
Only when all of the following apply: the fire is very small and contained, you have a clear escape route behind you, you have already alerted others in the building, and you are confident in how to use the extinguisher. If there is any doubt – if the fire is spreading, there is significant smoke, or you are unsure – evacuate immediately, close doors behind you, and call 999. A fire extinguisher is for the first seconds of a very small fire, not a developing one.
Is it safe to try to move a burning appliance outside?
No. Moving a burning appliance is very dangerous. It risks spreading the fire, exposing you to flames and toxic fumes, and causing serious burns. Leave the room, close the door, evacuate the building, and call 999. Do not attempt to move a burning appliance under any circumstances.
How do I reduce the risk of an appliance fire?
Do not leave washing machines, tumble dryers, or dishwashers running when you are out or in bed. Clean tumble dryer filters after every use. Check whether your appliances are subject to safety recalls. Do not use extension leads for high-wattage appliances – plug them directly into a wall socket. Keep smoke alarms tested and maintained. See our guide: risks of leaving appliances running unattended.
How long does a CO2 fire extinguisher last and does it need servicing?
CO2 fire extinguishers typically have a service life of around 10 years from manufacture, with annual maintenance recommended in commercial settings. For domestic use, check the gauge or pressure indicator every few months to confirm the extinguisher is still charged, and inspect for any visible damage to the body, hose, or nozzle. If the pressure drops out of the recommended range, or if the extinguisher reaches its end-of-service date marked on the body, replace it. Most household CO2 extinguishers from major UK retailers are sold with a clear date stamp and replacement guidance.
Should you turn off appliances at the socket when not in use?
Turning a washing machine, tumble dryer, or dishwasher off at the wall socket when it is not in use is a sensible precaution that reduces risk. It matters most for tumble dryers and washing machines. The risk from leaving appliances plugged in is low but not zero – and if the socket is easy to reach, there is little reason not to. If the socket is hidden behind the appliance or inside a cupboard, making it more accessible is worth considering.
Should you switch your washing machine, dishwasher, or tumble dryer off at the wall socket when you have finished using it? The risk of leaving an appliance plugged in is small but real. This guide from Whitegoods Help explains why the risk exists, what is actually happening inside the appliance, and how to make a practical decision for your own kitchen.
Is there really a risk from a switched-off appliance?
When an appliance is switched off but still plugged in, electricity continues to flow through part of the appliance. The plug is live, the cable is live, and voltage is present throughout the early stages of the appliance’s internal circuitry – including the mains suppressor (filter), and in many cases the control PCB, door lock, and display.
The risk of something going wrong while the appliance is not running is much lower than when it is in use – but it is not zero. Mains suppressors can degrade and fail, and there are documented cases of tumble dryers and washing machines starting fires or producing electrical incidents while plugged in but switched off. We cover one striking example in our guide on whether a tumble dryer can catch fire when unplugged.
Most standby-state incidents are very minor – a small electrical fault rather than a fire. But because the appliance is unattended, even a small fault can develop into something more serious before anyone notices. That is the core argument for switching off at the socket whenever it is convenient to do so.
Where does electricity go inside a plugged-in appliance?
Understanding what “switched off but plugged in” actually means electrically helps clarify the risk – and why switching off at the wall is more thorough than using the appliance’s own on/off button.
Plug and mains cableElectricity flows from the socket through the plug and along the mains cable any time the socket is live – whether or not the appliance itself is switched on. Damaged cables or worn plug pins remain a live hazard.
Mains suppressor (filter)The first component electricity reaches inside the appliance. Its job is to reduce electrical interference and it remains live as long as the appliance is plugged in. Suppressors can fail over time and have, in rare cases, caused localised electrical incidents.
Control PCB and displayOn most modern appliances, power reaches the main control board and display panel even when the on/off button is set to off. That is what makes features like programme memory and standby mode possible – but it means more live components.
Door lock and sensorsThe door interlock on washing machines and dishwashers is typically energised even when the machine is off, so the door can remain locked after a cycle. Another component that stays live while plugged in.
How should you decide for your own home?
Millions of appliances are left plugged in permanently without incident – the risk per appliance per day is very low. But it is worth making a conscious decision rather than leaving it to chance, and the decision really comes down to how accessible the socket is.
Socket is easy to reach
If the wall socket is clearly visible and easy to switch off after every use – such as a socket above the worktop or on an easily accessible wall – there is very little reason not to turn it off. It takes a second and reduces risk at no real cost of effort. This is particularly worthwhile for washing machines and tumble dryers.
Socket is hard to access
Many integrated dishwashers and washing machines are plumbed in with the socket located behind the appliance or inside a sealed cupboard – awkward or impossible to reach routinely. In this case the practical question is whether the socket location can be improved, rather than just accepting permanent standby.
If a dishwasher or washing machine socket is hidden behind a back panel or buried inside a cupboard, a qualified electrician can often relocate or add a fused spur in a more convenient position – above the worktop, inside an adjacent unit with an easy-access door, or anywhere it can be reached without pulling the appliance out. It is a small job that pays back every day the appliance is used.
What is the right advice for each appliance?
Different appliances carry different levels of inherent risk and have different practical constraints. The general principle – switch off at the socket when easy to do so – applies more strongly to some than others.
Switch off at the socket after every use where it is accessible. Washing machines have relatively complex electrical systems, can hold pressurised water, and are not designed to run unattended for extended periods. See also our guide on whether it is safe to leave a washing machine on when out or asleep.
Switching off at the socket when not in use is strongly advisable. Tumble dryers are one of the more common sources of household appliance fires, largely due to lint accumulation in the heating circuit. Never leave a dryer running unattended, and check our list of tumble dryer fire-risk safety notices if you have a Hotpoint, Indesit, or Creda model.
If the socket is accessible, switch off after each cycle. If it is buried behind a back panel, consider whether it can be relocated. At minimum, make sure the cycle has finished and the appliance has cooled before leaving the house or going to bed.
These must stay plugged in at all times to preserve food safety. The risk calculation is different for refrigeration: they run continuously and there is no practical option to switch them off routinely. Use a working RCD on the circuit and a smoke alarm in the kitchen instead.
Worried about leaving an appliance running?
If you regularly need to run a washing machine or dishwasher overnight or while out, these guides cover the real risks and the most practical ways to reduce them.
What safety checks should you make on the socket itself?
The socket and plug feeding the appliance are part of the same safety picture. A high-current appliance plugged into a damaged or overloaded socket is a fire risk in itself – independent of anything happening inside the machine.
Each of these appliances draws close to the full 13A capacity of a standard UK socket during the heating stage. Plugging them into an extension lead, a multi-way adaptor, or a daisy-chained socket strip is a well-known cause of overheating and house fires. We cover the reasoning in detail in our guide on extension sockets and adaptors with high-load appliances.
Check the plug and socket periodically – if you can see scorch marks, smell anything hot, or feel that the plug or socket is unusually warm, stop using the appliance and have the wiring inspected by a qualified electrician. Make sure the circuit is protected by a working RCD.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to leave a washing machine or tumble dryer plugged in when not in use?
The risk is low but not zero. Electricity continues to flow through part of the appliance even when switched off, and components like the mains suppressor and control board stay live. Most appliances left plugged in have no problems at all, but switching off at the socket when easy to do is a sensible precaution – particularly for tumble dryers, which carry a higher inherent fire risk.
Does switching an appliance off at its own button make it completely safe?
No. Switching off at the appliance’s own on/off button reduces risk but does not eliminate it – electricity still reaches the early internal circuitry, including the mains suppressor and often the control board. Switching off at the wall socket removes all voltage from the appliance and is the most complete way to eliminate standby risk. Unplugging entirely is equivalent.
What if the wall socket is behind the appliance or inside a cupboard?
This is a common situation with integrated dishwashers in particular. If the socket genuinely cannot be reached routinely, the practical options are to accept the residual risk, or to consult a qualified electrician about relocating the socket to a more accessible position. The latter is often straightforward and worthwhile for an appliance used every day.
Is a tumble dryer more risky to leave plugged in than a washing machine?
Tumble dryers are generally considered higher risk than washing machines for fire, mainly due to lint accumulation in the heating system and exhaust path. That risk is highest during operation, but the general advice to switch off at the socket when not in use applies at least as strongly to dryers. Never leave a tumble dryer running while out or asleep.
Should I unplug the dishwasher after each cycle?
If the socket is accessible, yes – this is good practice. If the socket is behind a back panel or hard to reach, at minimum make sure the cycle has finished and the dishwasher has cooled before leaving the house. If you run a timed programme overnight, consider whether the socket location can be improved.
Does turning off at the socket save much electricity?
Standby consumption on modern washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers is very small – usually a watt or two. The reason to switch off at the socket is safety rather than energy saving. The energy benefit on its own would not normally justify the effort, but combined with the small reduction in fault risk it is worth doing where convenient.
8 ways you can make your appliances more safe
Eight practical steps reduce the risk from white goods at home: be genuinely aware of how appliances fail, never leave a washing machine, tumble dryer, or dishwasher running unattended, read the instruction manual properly, fit smoke or heat alarms near the appliances, keep a CO₂ extinguisher in the kitchen or utility area, register every new appliance with the manufacturer, sign up for safety-notice alerts, and check today whether any current recall already affects an appliance you own.
This is part 2 of a Whitegoods Help series on the real dangers of white goods appliances and how to reduce risk at home. If you have not already, read part 1 first: how dangerous are our appliances? What follows is practical, in-depth advice with the reasons behind each step – not a shallow list of dos and don’ts.
More fires are caused by white goods appliances each year than most people realise, and only a fraction make national news. In a meaningful proportion of cases, better awareness or following the manufacturer’s instructions correctly could have prevented the incident outright. The eight steps below address that directly.
1. Make the effort to be genuinely aware
Awareness is the foundation of every other step. The risks from white goods appliances are real and they happen in ordinary homes – not just in unusual circumstances. Understanding those risks is the first step to reducing them.
One of the most consistent patterns in appliance fire incidents is that the risk was known but not acted on. Being aware is not enough on its own – awareness has to translate into behaviour. Take notice of reports of appliance incidents. Look for what went wrong and ask whether the same situation could arise in your home.
Charging devices is one area where incidents are frequently reported. The risk from a faulty or counterfeit charger may be difficult to eliminate entirely, but the consequences can be dramatically reduced by never charging a device on or next to flammable surfaces, and never leaving something charging in an empty house. Avoid overloading wall sockets – our guide on extension sockets and adaptors with high-load appliances covers why this matters.
2. Never leave appliances running unattended
An appliance fire in an empty house, or while occupants are asleep, is dramatically more damaging than one that is discovered straight away. With no one present to smell smoke or notice a problem, a small electrical fault can develop into a full kitchen or house fire before any alert is possible.
Washing machines, tumble dryers, and dishwashers do not need to run unattended. Doing so is purely a matter of convenience – it is never a necessity. The probability of something going wrong on any given cycle is low, but the consequence of it happening with nobody present is potentially catastrophic. Thousands of UK homes are damaged or destroyed by appliance fires every year.
See the full guide on the risks of leaving a washing machine or tumble dryer running when out or in bed, and our coverage of dishwasher fire risks.
3. Always read the instruction manual
User error and failure to follow manufacturer instructions is a leading cause of appliance incidents in several categories. Modern white goods are substantially more complex than previous generations – more components, more operating modes, more maintenance requirements. The manuals reflect this.
Many manuals contain serious safety warnings that most owners never read. As one example, a standard tumble dryer manual includes the following warning.
If the drying programme is interrupted before the end of the cooling-down phase, this could cause the laundry to self-ignite.
Standard tumble dryer instruction manual
That is an extremely serious warning – laundry that can catch fire after the cycle has stopped – buried among routine instructions with no special prominence. Not reading it could have catastrophic consequences. Our related guide on whether a tumble dryer can catch fire when unplugged covers the same risk in more detail.
Manufacturers could do more to make critical safety information prominent. Until they do, reading the manual carefully is the owner’s responsibility. For an appliance you have owned for a while, re-reading the manual is often worthwhile – it is common to find important information that was not absorbed at installation. Lost the manual? See our list of where to download white goods instruction manuals.
Long manuals are hard to absorb in one sitting. The effective approach is an initial read on the day of installation, then keep the manual accessible for the first week and return to it several times. This helps the important information stick rather than fade. At minimum, always seek out and read the warnings sections before using any new appliance.
4. Fit smoke or heat alarms near appliances
Smoke alarms give the earliest possible warning of a developing fire. Being alerted even a few minutes sooner can be the difference between a manageable incident and a serious one. Smoke alarms near washing machines, tumble dryers, and dishwashers make particular sense.
Kitchens are problematic for standard smoke alarms because cooking produces smoke and steam that trigger false alarms. Heat alarms, which respond to temperature rather than smoke, are designed for kitchen use and are the practical choice in that room. The UK Fire Service publishes guidance on choosing and placing alarms correctly: UK Fire Service smoke alarm advice.
Smoke alarms are not a reason to leave appliances running at night. The right approach is simply not to run washing machines, tumble dryers, or dishwashers overnight in the first place.
5. Keep a fire extinguisher near appliances
Being alerted to a fire early is far more useful when there is something at hand to tackle it. A small extinguisher suitable for electrical fires, placed in the kitchen or utility room, makes it possible to address a small contained fire before it develops – rather than simply evacuating and waiting for the fire brigade.
Home fire extinguishers are relatively inexpensive, last for many years, and need almost no ongoing maintenance other than a periodic check that the pressure gauge is in the green zone. For most households, a CO₂ extinguisher is the right choice for electrical appliance fires.
See our full guide on home fire extinguishers near appliances for the practical detail on type, size, and placement.
6. Register every new appliance with the manufacturer
Registering a new appliance is one of the most important steps an owner can take – and one of the most commonly skipped. When manufacturers later discover a serious safety issue, sometimes years after sale, they need to be able to reach owners directly.
Without registration, there is no reliable way for the manufacturer to contact owners of affected products. Safety notices are publicised through retailers, the media, and sites like Whitegoods Help, but direct manufacturer contact is the most certain way of finding out about a recall on an appliance you own.
See our full guide on whether you should register your appliance guarantee for what the registration process actually involves and what data is collected.
7. Stay informed about safety notices and product recalls
New safety notices are issued regularly. Staying aware of them means finding out quickly if an appliance you already own has a known safety problem – so it can be stopped, repaired, or replaced before an incident.
Several UK databases let residents register for product recall and safety notice notifications. The Electrical Safety First product recalls register is a comprehensive and authoritative resource: Electrical Safety First product recalls and safety notices.
Whitegoods Help also publishes safety notices as they are identified – see the full appliance safety notices page for the current list across washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, fridges, and cooking appliances.
8. Check all known safety notices today
Before any incident happens, spend a few minutes checking the current safety notices to see whether any appliance already in use is known to have a fault. Cross-reference these resources against the model and serial numbers of every washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, fridge, and hob in your home.
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Whitegoods Help safety notices page. See the full list of all appliance safety notices covering current and historical UK recalls. -
Electrical Safety First product recalls. The Electrical Safety First database covers electrical appliance recalls across all categories. -
Tumble dryer safety notices. Tumble dryers carry a higher inherent fire risk – see the dedicated list of tumble dryer fire-risk safety notices. -
DIY repair safety. If a fault is found that you intend to investigate yourself, read the DIY repair safety advice first. -
Part 1 of this series. Read how dangerous are our appliances? for the wider context behind these eight steps.
Need a repair, a part, or to report a concern?
If you have identified a fault or want a professional to assess an appliance before continuing to use it, our engineer network can help.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to leave a washing machine or tumble dryer running at night?
No. Whitegoods Help strongly advises against it. An appliance fire that starts while occupants are asleep is significantly more dangerous than one noticed immediately. Running washing machines, tumble dryers, and dishwashers only when someone is awake and at home is a simple way to reduce risk substantially. See our full guide on the risks of leaving appliances running when out or in bed.
How important is it to read the instruction manual?
Very important. User error and failure to follow manufacturer instructions is one of the leading causes of appliance incidents. Modern appliances are complex and their manuals contain genuine safety warnings – some very serious – that many owners never read. At minimum, always read the warnings sections before using any new appliance, and revisit the manual for existing appliances you may not have read carefully the first time.
Do I really need to register my appliance with the manufacturer?
Yes. Manufacturers discovering safety issues sometimes years after sale need to be able to contact owners directly. Without registration there is no reliable way for the manufacturer to reach you if a recall or safety notice is issued for your specific appliance. Registration takes a few minutes and costs nothing. See our guide on whether you should register your guarantee.
What type of fire extinguisher should I have near kitchen appliances?
A CO₂ (carbon dioxide) extinguisher is the appropriate choice for electrical appliance fires in a kitchen or utility room. It is safe to use on live electrical equipment and leaves no residue. Never use a water extinguisher on an electrical fire. See our full guide on home fire extinguishers near appliances.
Where can I find out about UK appliance safety notices and recalls?
Whitegoods Help publishes safety notices as they are identified – see the appliance safety notices page. Electrical Safety First also maintains a comprehensive product recalls database: Electrical Safety First product recalls. Registering your appliances with manufacturers ensures direct contact if a recall is issued.
How do I check whether a specific appliance has a current safety notice?
Find the model and serial number on the rating plate, then cross-reference against the resources listed above. Most manufacturers also have a “product safety” or “recall check” tool on their website where you can enter your model and serial number directly. If you cannot find the rating plate, our guide on how to find an appliance model number covers the typical label locations on washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, and refrigeration.
How dangerous are our white goods appliances?
White goods appliances carry an inherent risk that most people significantly underestimate. Bad design, poor build quality, user misuse, and complacency all increase that risk unnecessarily. This article sets out the reality of how dangerous household appliances can be – and why being proactive about safety genuinely matters.
After reading this article, see the practical steps in Part 2: 8 ways to make your appliances safer.
Fires, Explosions, and Injuries – the Scale of the Problem
Electrical appliances are routinely catching fire, exploding, injuring, and in some cases killing people. This is not a rare occurrence. It is happening in ordinary homes across the UK every week. White goods appliances – washing machines, tumble dryers, dishwashers, fridge freezers – are among the most common causes.
In recent years, millions of tumble dryers were found to have a potential fire risk – see tumble dryer fire risk notices. Fridge freezers have caused fires. Dishwashers have caught fire. The door glass on some washing machines has shattered dangerously – see exploding door glass danger. Inner washing machine drums have also been known to fail catastrophically – see washing machine drum explosions. In 2016, Samsung recalled 2.8 million top-loading washing machines in the US following reports of drum failures: BBC News – Samsung washing machine recall.
These are not isolated or unusual events. They are part of a pattern that affects a wide range of electrical products across many categories.
The Facts and Statistics
The scale of the problem is larger than most people realise. Statistics published by Electrical Safety First for a single year (2011/12) recorded approximately 13,000 fires caused by white goods appliances in the UK – equivalent to around 250 fires every week. Those fires were responsible for 10 deaths and over 1,600 injuries in that year alone.
Data collated between 2011 and 2014 by the UK Government and quoted by Which? found that white goods accounted for 55% of all house fires. That makes white goods appliances the single most common cause of house fires in the UK (note: the full Which? article is available to subscribers).
In the same period, tumble dryers alone were linked to 3 deaths and over 300 injuries.
A significant proportion of appliance fire incidents go unreported nationally. The actual number of fires, injuries, and near-misses is considerably higher than official statistics capture.
Why Most People Are Not Aware of the Risk
Appliance fires and injuries affect a relatively small percentage of the population in any given year. Because most people have not experienced one personally, and because incidents are often reported locally rather than nationally, the cumulative scale of the problem is not well understood.
This lack of awareness has direct consequences. People who do not understand the risk are more likely to leave appliances running unattended, skip reading instruction manuals, ignore safety notices, and use appliances in ways that increase the likelihood of an incident. Awareness is not just interesting information – it changes behaviour in ways that genuinely reduce risk.
Unaware of the risk
More likely to leave washing machines, tumble dryers, and dishwashers running overnight or when the house is empty. Less likely to read manuals, register appliances, or check safety notices. May use appliances incorrectly without realising the consequences.
Aware of the risk
Makes informed decisions about when appliances run. Reads and follows manufacturer guidance. Registers appliances to receive safety notices. Checks known recalls. More likely to catch and respond to early warning signs of a problem.
User Behaviour Is a Major Factor
This is not an article about assigning blame – it is about identifying where risk can realistically be reduced. A substantial proportion of appliance incidents, potentially the majority, might have been avoided if the user had been more aware or had followed manufacturer instructions correctly.
Responsibility for appliance safety is shared. Manufacturers have an obligation to build safe products and to issue clear safety warnings. Governments have a role in regulation and enforcement. But users also have a significant influence over the level of risk they are exposed to in their own homes – and that influence is often not exercised.
The good news is that many of the most effective risk reduction steps cost nothing and require only a modest change in habit. These are covered in detail in Part 2 of this series.
Fridges and Freezers: A Special Case
Most white goods appliances can be switched off when not in use – washing machines, tumble dryers, and dishwashers do not need to run overnight or when the house is empty. Fridge freezers are different: they must run continuously to preserve food safely. This means the risk from a fridge freezer cannot be managed in the same way.
Keeping a suitable fire extinguisher close to hand in the kitchen, and ensuring smoke alarms are tested and maintained, are the most practical mitigations for the risk posed by continuously running appliances. See: home fire extinguishers near appliances.
Take action – read Part 2
Frequently Asked Questions
How many house fires are caused by white goods appliances?
Electrical Safety First recorded approximately 13,000 fires caused by white goods appliances in a single year (2011/12) in the UK – around 250 fires per week. Government data collated between 2011 and 2014 attributed 55% of all house fires to white goods appliances, making them the single most common cause of domestic fires. These figures cover reported incidents only; the actual total including unreported incidents is higher.
Are tumble dryers particularly dangerous?
Tumble dryers are among the highest-risk white goods appliances. In recent years, millions of tumble dryers were found to carry a potential fire risk and were subject to safety notices and recalls. Tumble dryers have been linked to deaths and hundreds of injuries. Lint accumulation in the heating system is a key fire risk factor. Cleaning the filter after every use and never leaving a dryer running unattended are the most effective precautions. See: tumble dryer fire risk safety notices.
Can a fridge freezer catch fire?
Yes. Fridge freezers have been the source of serious fires. Unlike other white goods appliances, fridge freezers must run continuously and cannot be switched off when the house is empty – which makes the risk harder to manage. Keeping a suitable fire extinguisher in the kitchen and maintaining working smoke alarms are the most practical ways to reduce the consequences of a fridge freezer fire. Checking whether any fridge freezer in the home is subject to a safety notice is also important.
What percentage of house fires are caused by appliances?
Government data collated between 2011 and 2014, as quoted by Which?, attributed 55% of all house fires to white goods appliances. This makes white goods the leading cause of domestic fires in the UK by a significant margin – ahead of cooking, candles, and other common sources. Note that the full Which? report is available to subscribers.
What can I do to reduce the risk from my appliances?
The most impactful steps are: never leave washing machines, tumble dryers, or dishwashers running when out of the house or in bed; read and follow instruction manuals; register all appliances with the manufacturer; check whether any appliance is subject to a safety notice or recall; install appropriate smoke alarms; and keep a fire extinguisher suitable for electrical fires in the kitchen. All of these steps are covered in detail in Part 2: 8 ways to make your appliances safer.
Extension Leads and Cables with Washing Machines
Using an extension lead with a washing machine is not recommended by manufacturers and introduces real fire and electrical risks. If one is absolutely necessary, it must be rated at 13 amps, be three-core with an earth conductor, and have cable at least as thick as the appliance’s own cable. Never run two high-current appliances from the same extension at the same time, and always fully unwind a cable reel before use.
Using an extension lead with a washing machine, dishwasher, or tumble dryer is not recommended by manufacturers and introduces genuine fire and electrical risks if the wrong cable is used. This guide covers what the risks actually are, the rules for choosing a safe extension lead if one is absolutely necessary, how to calculate whether your socket is overloaded, and the warning signs that something is going wrong.
All major appliance manufacturers, including Miele, explicitly state in their instruction manuals that washing machines must not be connected via an extension lead. If you must use one, the rules below are not optional – they are the minimum required for safe operation.
Why Extension Leads Are Risky With White Goods
Washing machines, dishwashers, and tumble dryers draw significantly more current than most domestic appliances. A washing machine on a hot cycle with the heating element running can draw close to 10 amps. A tumble dryer can draw 11 amps or more. These are high-current appliances operating continuously for extended periods, and that combination is precisely what extension leads are not designed to handle reliably.
Overheating riskExtension cables generate heat under load. A cable rated for lower-power appliances, such as lamps or chargers, will overheat when a washing machine draws 10 amps through it. The insulation degrades, connections become resistive, and in worst cases the cable can melt or ignite. This risk is present even when the extension cable appears to be working normally.
Multi-socket overloadingA four or six-socket extension strip can only carry 13 amps in total through the cable, regardless of how many sockets it has. It is easy to plug multiple appliances into a multi-socket strip without realising that two high-current appliances running simultaneously will exceed the safe limit. This is one of the most common causes of extension lead fires in UK homes.
No earth connectionWashing machines and other white goods appliances must be earthed. Some cheap extension cables use only two-core wiring with no earth conductor. Connecting a washing machine via an unearthed extension means the appliance is not earthed, and if an insulation fault develops inside the machine, the appliance casing becomes live at mains voltage. This is potentially lethal. Read: electric shocks from an appliance.
Poor connectionsThe fire brigade advise against plugging large appliances into double adaptors because the internal connections are often of lower quality than a proper wall socket. Poor connections under high current loads create resistance, generate heat, and can arc. A connection that handles a phone charger safely can fail dangerously under the sustained current a washing machine draws.
The Rules for Using an Extension Lead Safely
If a wall socket is genuinely not available and an extension lead must be used, all of the following requirements apply. Missing any one of them creates a safety risk.
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The lead must be rated for 13 amps. This is non-negotiable. Extension leads designed for garden tools, lamps, or low-power electronics are often rated at 5 or 10 amps, which is insufficient for a washing machine. A 10-amp lead connected to a washing machine will overheat. Check the packaging or the cable itself for the amp rating before use. If it is not clearly stated, do not use it for white goods. -
The lead must be three-core with an earth conductor. A washing machine requires an earth connection. A two-core extension cable has no earth, and connecting an earthed appliance to it removes the earth protection. Check the plug end of the extension cable: a three-core cable has three pins, including a longer earth pin at the top. A two-core cable has only the two flat live and neutral pins. -
The cable must be as thick as or thicker than the appliance’s own cable. A cable thinner than the appliance cable cannot safely carry the same current. The thickness of the cable is a rough visual guide to its current rating. If the extension lead cable is noticeably thinner than the machine’s own power cable, it is likely undersized for the application. -
Buy from a recognised brand. Cheap unbranded extension leads from market stalls or discount websites may not meet their stated ratings. Branded products from established UK electrical suppliers are more likely to meet their specifications reliably. This is not about price snobbery – it is about whether the stated amp rating is accurate. -
Never connect two high-current appliances to the same extension at the same time. A washing machine and a tumble dryer, or a washing machine and a dishwasher, running simultaneously on the same extension will draw close to or beyond 13 amps combined, overloading the cable and potentially the wall socket. No two appliances with heating elements should run from the same socket or extension at the same time. -
Keep the cable run as short as possible. Longer cables have higher resistance, which increases heat generation under load. Use the shortest cable that reaches the socket and avoid coiling any excess cable while the machine is running, as coiled cable traps heat.
Extension Reels: Unwind Fully Before Use
Retractable extension reels that wind up into a drum are particularly dangerous with high-current appliances if left wound up during use. When a cable is coiled, heat generated by current flow cannot dissipate and accumulates in the reel. This is why extension reels carry two separate amp ratings: one for fully unwound use, and a lower rating for use while wound up.
The wound-up rating on a cable reel is typically well below 13 amps. A washing machine drawing close to 10 amps through a wound reel can cause the reel to overheat and potentially catch fire even when the cable itself is rated for 13 amps unwound.
How to Calculate Whether You Are Overloading a Socket
Every UK wall socket can handle a maximum of 13 amps. Every appliance has a wattage rating on its label, and you can convert watts to amps using a simple calculation: divide the wattage by 230 (the UK mains voltage) to get the approximate amperage.
| Appliance | Typical wattage | Approximate amps |
|---|---|---|
| Washing machine (heating element running) | 2,000 to 2,400W | 8.7 to 10.4A |
| Tumble dryer | 2,400 to 2,800W | 10.4 to 12.2A |
| Dishwasher | 1,800 to 2,200W | 7.8 to 9.6A |
| Fridge freezer | 100 to 400W | 0.4 to 1.7A |
| Microwave | 700 to 1,200W | 3.0 to 5.2A |
| Laptop charger | 45 to 90W | 0.2 to 0.4A |
A multi-socket extension strip plugged into a single wall socket can only carry 13 amps in total through the connecting cable. It does not matter how many sockets the strip has. The maximum safe load across all sockets combined is 13 amps. If a washing machine alone draws up to 10.4 amps, there is only around 2.5 amps available for any other appliance on the same extension at the same time.
For an interactive tool to check whether your socket is overloaded, Electrical Safety First offer a free socket calculator: Socket Overload Calculator.
Wall Socket Adaptors
Double or triple wall socket adaptors, the type that plug directly into a wall socket and allow multiple plugs, are less common now that multi-socket extensions are widely available. They are always rated at 13 amps, so the amp limit itself is the same as a wall socket.
However, the same overloading rules apply. A washing machine drawing close to 10 amps leaves very little capacity for anything else on the same adaptor. Two high-current appliances in the same adaptor running simultaneously will overload it. The fire brigade advise against using double adaptors for large appliances because of poor internal connection quality, even where the amp limit itself is not exceeded.
Warning Signs of Overloading or Electrical Faults
A strange fishy or burning smell coming from a wall socket, plug, adaptor, or extension lead is a warning sign of dangerous overheating inside the fitting. This is not an obvious burning smell – it can be faint and unusual, more like a fishy or acrid odour. If you notice it, stop using the socket immediately and investigate the source before the fitting is used again.
Fishy or burning smellSome electrical components and insulation give off a characteristic fishy or acrid smell when they overheat, rather than the obvious smell of burning plastic or rubber. This smell near a socket, plug, extension lead, or adaptor should be treated seriously. Turn off the circuit and do not use the fitting until it has been inspected by an electrician.
Warm or hot socket or plugA socket or plug that feels warm or hot to the touch during appliance use indicates a connection issue or overloading. Some warmth under high load is not unusual, but a socket or plug that is uncomfortable to touch is not functioning safely. Have it inspected.
Tripping RCD or circuit breakerAn RCD or circuit breaker that trips when a washing machine runs may indicate an overloaded circuit, a fault in the machine, or a problem with the extension cable or socket. Do not simply reset and continue without investigating the cause. A tripping RCD is doing its job, but the underlying cause needs to be identified.
Scorch marks or discolourationAny scorch marks, discolouration, or blackening around a socket, plug, or extension lead connection point indicates that arcing or overheating has occurred. The fitting must not be used again until it has been replaced and the cause investigated.
Related Safety Guides
Electric shocks from a washing machineWhy washing machines sometimes give electric shocks, the most common causes, and why an unearthed appliance is potentially lethal.
Extension sockets and adaptorsA deeper look at multi-socket extensions and wall socket adaptors, including how to check what is safe to plug in together.
How to wire a washing machine plugThe correct way to wire a three-pin UK plug on a washing machine, including how to identify and connect the earth, neutral, and live wires safely.
Appliance safety hubAll of Whitegoods Help’s appliance safety guides in one place, covering fire risks, electric shock, safety notices, and safe use of white goods.
8 ways to make your appliances saferPractical steps every household can take to reduce the risk of fire, flood, and injury from white goods appliances.
Is it safe to leave the washing machine on when out?The genuine fire risk from unattended appliances, what the evidence shows, and how to weigh the risk in practice.
Need a repair or electrical help?
If your appliance has an electrical fault, or if you need a qualified engineer to check your installation, Whitegoods Help can point you in the right direction.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use an extension lead with a washing machine?
Manufacturers including Miele explicitly advise against it in their instruction manuals, and it is not recommended as a permanent arrangement. If a wall socket is genuinely not available, the extension lead must be rated at 13 amps, be three-core with an earth, and have cable as thick or thicker than the appliance’s own cable. Never use a multi-socket extension with more than one high-current appliance running at the same time.
What extension lead rating do I need for a washing machine?
A minimum of 13 amps, three-core with an earth conductor. The cable must be at least as thick as the machine’s own power cable, and the lead should be from a recognised brand rather than an unbranded product. An extension rated for anything less than 13 amps is not safe for use with a washing machine.
Can I plug a washing machine and tumble dryer into the same extension lead?
Not at the same time. A washing machine on a hot cycle draws up to 10 amps and a tumble dryer can draw up to 12 amps. Running both simultaneously through a single 13-amp extension would significantly exceed the safe limit, causing overheating that could start a fire. If both appliances need to run, they must be on separate wall sockets.
How do I calculate whether my socket is overloaded?
Find the wattage of each appliance on its rating plate, typically inside the door rim or on the back. Divide the wattage by 230 to get the approximate amperage. Add up the amps of all appliances running from the same socket simultaneously. The total must not exceed 13 amps. For example, a 2,200W washing machine draws approximately 9.6 amps, leaving only 3.4 amps for anything else on the same socket while it is running.
I can smell something fishy near my socket. What does it mean?
A fishy or acrid smell near a socket, plug, extension lead, or adaptor is a warning sign of electrical overheating. Some components and insulation materials produce this specific smell rather than the more obvious smell of burning plastic when they overheat internally. Stop using the socket immediately, do not reset the circuit, and have it inspected by a qualified electrician before using it again.
Do I need to fully unwind a cable reel when using it with a washing machine?
Yes, always. A cable reel wound up in its drum cannot dissipate heat, so the effective safe current rating when wound up is significantly lower than the rating when fully unwound. Even a reel rated at 13 amps fully unwound will have a much lower wound-up rating printed on the label. Always fully unwind the reel before connecting a washing machine, dishwasher, or tumble dryer.
Is a two-core extension cable safe to use with a washing machine?
No. A two-core extension cable has no earth conductor. Connecting a washing machine to it removes the machine’s earth protection entirely. If the machine develops an internal insulation fault, the casing becomes live at mains voltage. This is potentially lethal. Always use a three-core extension cable with a washing machine.