It seems that a common error code on some older Indesit washing machines is error code 7. This code can show itself as F07. Some models don’t have a digital display though. So washing machines that have a rotating control dial will instead flash the door lock light in cycles of 7 flashes. As Indesit and Hotpoint are made by the same company some Hotpoint models also use this error code (WF and WD models).
This error code usually means, “heater relay stuck”. The heating element is switched on via a relay. The relay is built into the main PCB. This relay is known to get jammed, causing error code 7. In my experience this has usually meant a new PCB needed fitting. But as the PCB replacement comes without the main processor (EEPROM chip) one of those is also needed.
It’s always possible for a connection fault to cause error codes but the heater relay is embedded in the PCB and if it develops a fault the whole board needs replacing. I don’t recommend replacing the PCB as a DIY repair. It is an expensive part and it will not be guaranteed unless fitted by an engineer. New PCBs do not come with the micro-chip EEPROM which would also need fitting. Replacing the PCB and EEPROM yourself is risky. If the fault is not cured you cannot send the parts back.
So this repair is likely to be expensive. I have heard anecdotally of engineers freeing off the jammed relay on the PCB by giving it a firm tap. However, if it’s stuck once there would be a chance the relay could get stuck again later on.
If a washing machine is still under the five-year parts warranty it would be cheaper to let the manufacture fit these parts. Many white goods manufacturers now operate fixed price repairs schemes. It might also be worth checking out the repair options here – Book washing machine (or other appliance) repair.
- WARNING: Some washing machines can shock you even when unplugged! DIY repair safety advice
- Washing machine stops with lights flashing (General comment on how to decipher error codes manifesting as flashing lights)
- Program selector knob (dial) clicks round continuously (general advice on error code matters manifesting as rotating control knobs)
- PCB repairs and testing (This company may be able to test and/or repair your washing machine pcb
I had this fault, it turned out to be a broken wire to the heater itself.
This would be detected as a relay stuck in the OFF position.
It was a simple repair.
I also had this fault on 4 year old machine. Tried firmly tapping the PCB to no effect. Problem overcome by connecting machine to hot water supply and using on low heat wash setting (30 degrees) – the temperature sensor is then triggered so the machine completes the cycle normally.
Karl: That’s lateral thinking :-) The machine is likely to sucumb to grease and grime eventually thaough as described here – Washing machine smells – causes of grease, slime and black mould inside washing machines.
Washing at 30 degrees exclusively is not ideal. If it’s the only option you have you might find some useful points in my article Washing at 30 degrees
Thank you for the information on the fault code which is very helpful. Thank God I just need to resolder one of the relay’s leg (dry solder). A quick and no charge fix, save me a new machine.
Reading the comments above doesn’t make a great deal of sense; If tapping the relay can free it up to work, even if only temporarily, then why on earth would it be necessary to replace the PCB, unless it’s integrated as part of it – but this isn’t made clear? If this is the case, anyone considered the possibility of dry solder joints as this could give the same symptom?
Anyhow I had this problem a couple of weeks ago and it’s returned again this morning. It occurred to me that on both of these occasions it has been particularly cold (my kitchen is also unheated and north facing – machine against outside wall). So I’ve just run the dryer (empty) for ten minutes to warm the machine up and then put in a washing load as normal and it’s working fine!
I appreciate that this isn’t a good long-term solution, but it’s just got me out of a hole! This could tie in with the mechanics of the relay, or a dry solder joint (dew to expansion/contraction).
I’d love to hear if this works for anyone else.
Rob
PS. Missed ES’s comment about dry solder, so this, for me, confirms it.
Hi Rob, it says in the second paragraph of the article that, “the heater is switched on via a relay built into the main PCB”. Dry joints are always worth checking for but many times the relay is physically jammed inside. Interesting theory about the cold.
Can’t believed I skipped over that bit -Cuh!
Have you or anyone tried sourcing a compatible relay from Farnell/CPC or RS?
Hi Rob. The majority of appliance engineers never try to repair any pcb other than the odd soldering of obvious dry joints. The industry has always been set up to replace pcbs and never to carry out repairs to them. As such there’s no way of sourcing any parts for them within the trade, no individual parts or technical information about resistors, capacitors or relays. I would think theoretically you should be able to source and replace individual components if you know what you are doing and know where to find them.
I took my machine apart in the week and found a few obvious dry joints, all in the corner where there’s a heat sink, perhaps unsurprisingly. One joint in particular was barely making contact – a wonder it worked at all! There was a little carbon deposit as well, so I presume it has been arcing. Anyhow all cleaned up and re-soldered and my machine is now working well! :-)
I had this error code on my WEI137S, looked for the relay, couldn’t see it. In the end The brown wire had corroded and melted off of the terminal on the heating element. stripped back the wire to good put on a new female spade connector, cleaned the element terminal, and all is ok and working fine. Hope this helps and thanks .