How to remove the heater from a washing machine

Heater-behind-door-panel This article is how to remove the heating element from a front loading UK washing machine. Removing the heater can be very difficult. So don’t do it unless you are sure it needs replacing, and you are proficient at repairing things. Very often you cannot get an old element back in place once removed. This is because of the way they are designed (as described later).

If you’ve tested the heating element with a meter and found it to be faulty read on. Otherwise check this article first – not heating up the water – is heater faulty?

Where is the heating element on a washing machine?

If you are lucky the heating element is on the back of the main drum and accessible from behind the back panel. More commonly though it’s right at the front of the main outer drum under the door seal (see pic above). This means the front panel has to be removed. How easy this is varies from model to model and brand to brand.

So it’s impossible to give specific instructions. Some washing machines even have the front panel welded in so it can’t be removed meaning the entire drum has to come out of the cabinet to get access. Essentially you should know what a heating element looks like. It can only be inserted in either the back of the main drum or the front. If you don’t have the skills to work out how to take something to pieces and put it back together get an appliance engineer.

How to remove the heater from a washing machine

Heater Every washing machine heater I’ve ever seen is secured in place in exactly the same way. Underneath the terminals there is a thick rubber seal. Below that is a metal plate. The metal plate has a bolt in the centre which is threaded through the centre of the rubber seal and comes out in between the two electrical terminals.

You can see this bolt in the centre of the heater even when fitted in the machine. It has a nut on it. When the heater is slotted into the machine this nut is tightened down which draws the plate towards it and squashes the rubber seal. It squashes it quite a lot, and makes it jam inside the machine to be water tight.

Heater fitting If you look at the picture on the left you can see a brand new heater with the thick rubber seal. When new, the heater snugly slots into place. But after the bolt is tightened up and left for a few years the rubber can become bulbous and hard.

This makes it very hard to get out, and sometimes impossible to fit back in. Some will come out easily enough and go back OK, but don’t remove one unless it needs replacing or you have to.

Buy washing machine element

heating element

You can order a new heating element for your washing machine here – Heating elements

So, to remove a heater you need to undo this nut, unscrew it to the top of the thread but don’t remove it. Then push the bolt in to move the plate inside away from the seal. You may have to use a hammer and something to punch it with but not something which will damage it.

Once the plate is pushed back the heater can be levered out but again you have to be careful because most are fitted into only plastic tubs and you can easily break it.

Note that even with the nut and thread pushed right back the heater can be extremely difficult to get out if the rubber seal has gone hard. I’ve had some very tough struggles. You have to pull or lever the rubber seal out all the way round the heater. If the rubber seal has remained pliable and not gone too bulbous it may come out reasonably easily. If not you have to use a mix of screwdrivers, pliers and even pipe pliers to wrestle it out. Do not break the plastic around the heater!

What happens if heater gets Stuck

There’s a topic on my Forums with a great photo showing how a heater can get suck when trying to remove it. It also shows the damage to the surrounding that is so easily done trying to leaver it out. Finally there is advice on how to deal with the situation Heater change – major fail

How to fit a new heater

To fit a heater you need to slot it in place being careful to ensure you locate the end of the heater into the heater bracket at the bottom of the tub. This bracket is essential to stop the drum hitting the heater on spin with a heavy load inside. It should either be a little bracket sticking up or maybe there is a cover designed into the tub and the heater just fits underneath it.

Once slotted in place the nut in the centre needs tightening down to draw the metal plate up against the rubber. Don’t over tighten it, tighten it firmly enough to squash the rubber properly. If the metal on the heater starts to bend in you are over tightening. Try to pull it out with a firm tug to make sure it doesn’t come out.

Refitting an old element

If you’ve needed to use WD40 or similar to get the heater in (you shouldn’t need to with a new heater) you need to be especially careful it won’t come out. If it comes out it will create a serious flood. I once refitted an old heater and needed to use WD-40 to get it back in. It looked OK but it popped out halfway through a wash and flooded a kitchen. How tight you need to tighten it is something that engineers learn from trial and error.

Unfortunately, doing something only once with no previous experience can go badly wrong. If the metal plate on the element is bending you are over-tightening it.

Useful removing element article with pictures

This is a very useful topic posted on my Washerhelp forums which highlights someone’s experience with trying to replace the heating element in their washing machine. They are part of some very useful photos and advice which will be very useful in understanding the issues described above Washerhelp forum topic on heater

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32 thoughts on “How to remove the heater from a washing machine”

  1. Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

    Hello Colin. The heater bracket is there to hold it in the right place but also to stop the drum hitting it. There is a gap between the heater and the drum, but on spin, with a heavy load, the drum somehow stretches or wobbles in such a way that it can clip the element. The movement in the drum is likely to be minor, but maybe the absence of a bracket also allows the element to move slightly upwards towards the drum. In any case the heater would only be hit by the drum with heavy load and on fast spin. With a light load on fast spin it would not hit at all. Also, if by any chance the element was to warp it would also help hold it away from the drum or the (now) plastic drum.

    It was a very common fault on old Hoover washing machines when they used to use vitreous enamel outer tubs. Their heater bracket was just a bit of metal sticking out that the element slotted in to. It was welded to the bottom of the tub and unfortunately commonly rusted away and fell off. When it did, the washing machine worked perfectly OK except when spinning a heavy load of towels or sheets. Then the drum would clatter the element on every revolution and make a very loud metalic tapping noise about 3 times a second.

    Eventually this would damage the element and it would commonly fuse the electrics when the element’s insulation broke down.

    These days most heater element brackets tend to be little shelves built into the mould of the plastic outer tub (drum) that the element just slides under. If properly designed it should be impossible to fit it incorrectly.

    1. Hi my bracket in the washing machine heating element has come off. How do i get this back on at all as the hole it too small

  2. Hi Colin is there a way to bypass the whole heating system without replacing element. I also press the button to give me – so that I wash on cold but clearly the element is faulty now and my machine start washing and stops after 10 minutes and then you can’t get it to wash anymore. I replaced necessary wires but same problem so I can’t even remove it I tried

    1. Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

      Hi Zandri. The only way you could do a wash cycle without the heating element as if you have a specific wash cycle that washes in cold water. Any normal wash cycle will use the heating element, and the software that runs the programs will detect that the water level is not rising and therefore abort with an error. I’m not aware of any actual cold wash cycles on washing machines, at least not in the UK. I did a search on Google UK and can only find references to the fact that “cold washes” are deemed as washes at around 20° C.

      So if that’s the case then no wash cycle will work without a heating element.

  3. Hi. My cross got damaged and the drum hit the heating element. This machine, a 15yr old Baucknecht, has a specific knob for temperature selection so its totally in our control whether you use heat or not.

    Can I bypass the heater by joining its 2 wires?

    1. Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

      Definitely not no. It would go with a hell of a bang. You can’t bypass a heater though if the live is disconnected it would obviously stop it being activated.

  4. Hi Andy,
    Have successfully removed the faulty heater element from our Hotpoint machine using screwdrivers and brute force (without breaking anything). The issue I now have is keeping the new one in place (it’s a pattern part from Ransoms, so is a direct replacement). It slots in well enough, but each time i start to tighten the nut on the new one, and the rubber begins to squish down, it squeezes itself out of the hole. How do i keep the element in place long enough for the rubber to squish down on the inside and keep everything in place and water tight?
    Any hints / advice please?

    1. Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)

      Hi Simon. That usually only happens if you used any lubricant on the rubber. I once even had one pop out during a wash! Don’t use any WD40 or washing up liquid. If you have done then get rid of it.

      Otherwise there’s no reason why that should happen. Don’t over-tighten. The metal plate under the nut will bend and warp if you do. Also make sure the element is locating properly inside the tub as there should be a bracket it pushes on to or at least a cover that it locates under.

      When fitted properly you should be able to pull it without it moving.

      1. Thanks Andy. Must’ve missed cleaning the hole properly. All cleaned up and fitted now. Unfortunately, the electrics still trip during a wash cycle, so something else wrong with the machine :(

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