Fabric Softener not being taken out
If fabric softener is still in the compartment at the end of a cycle, first confirm the cycle completed fully. If it did not complete, the softener issue is a symptom of a different fault. If the cycle did complete normally, the most likely cause is a failed solenoid water valve, a jammed dispenser nozzle, or mould blocking the dispenser housing.
Fabric softener left untouched in the drawer after a completed wash points to one of a small number of causes. Working through them in order quickly identifies which applies.
Step 1: Did the Cycle Complete Properly?
Cycle did NOT complete fullyThe softener may not have been reached because the cycle aborted early. Look for flashing lights, a clicking selector dial, or an error code. The softener fault is a symptom – fix the underlying fault first. See our guide on washing machine stops mid-cycle.
Cycle DID complete fullyThe machine completed all rinses and the final spin, but the softener compartment was not emptied. This is a genuine softener system fault. Continue with this guide.
Step 2: Identify Which System Your Machine Uses
Washing machines use one of two methods to flush fabric conditioner into the drum. Knowing which your machine has determines what to check next.
Separate solenoid valveA dedicated solenoid valve with two wires and a separate hose running to the conditioner compartment. When energised at the correct point in the cycle, it opens to flush water through the conditioner and into the drum. Most common on modern machines.
Movable directional nozzleA lever-operated arm on top of the dispenser housing that redirects water from the single cold inlet valve into the conditioner compartment at the right point in the programme. Found on some older machines.
Possible Causes When the Cycle Completes Normally
Solenoid Valve Machines
Open circuit solenoid (most likely) – The solenoid coil inside the valve has failed. The machine sends the signal to open the valve, but the coil cannot respond. The valve stays closed and no water enters the conditioner compartment.
Broken wiring or connection fault (less common) – Power is being sent by the PCB but a broken wire or loose connector between the board and the valve prevents the signal from reaching the solenoid.
PCB not sending the signal (rare) – The control board itself is not energising the valve at the correct point in the cycle. This would only be diagnosed after ruling out the valve and wiring.
How to Test the Solenoid Valve
Never test or handle solenoid connections with the machine plugged in. See our DIY repair safety guide before starting.
Solenoid valves have very thin, very long wire windings – which means they have a high electrical resistance. A multimeter set to the wrong range may show an open circuit reading on a perfectly working valve, giving a false result.
Disconnect the wiring from all solenoid valves, photograph the connections before removing anything, and test each valve in turn. All valves should give the same resistance reading. If the wash and rinse valves read the same as each other but different from the softener valve, the softener valve is faulty. If all valves show the same result, check your meter is set to the correct high-resistance range.
Directional Nozzle Machines
On machines with a movable nozzle rather than a dedicated valve, the most common fault is the nozzle jamming in the detergent position or the spring that operates the lever mechanism coming free. If the nozzle cannot redirect water into the conditioner compartment, the conditioner is never flushed out.
With the soap drawer removed, inspect the top of the dispenser housing for the lever and nozzle mechanism. Check that the nozzle moves freely and that any spring or return mechanism is intact.
Mould and Blockage in the Dispenser Housing
Build-up of mould, black residue, or gunge in the top of the dispenser housing can block the small nozzles that direct water into the conditioner compartment. Remove the soap drawer completely and inspect the roof of the dispenser housing with a torch. If mould or blockage is present, clean it thoroughly. See our guide on black jelly in the soap drawer for the causes and cleaning method.
A blocked housing is more commonly associated with fabric softener being taken too soon (water spraying sideways into the compartment early) rather than not being taken at all. However, it is worth checking and cleaning regardless, as it can affect the dispenser in either direction depending on exactly where the blockage is.
Diagnostic Checklist
-
Confirm the cycle completed fully – all rinses done, final spin complete, no error codes or flashing lights -
Remove and inspect the soap drawer and housing – look for mould, blockage, or residue blocking the conditioner nozzles -
Identify whether your machine has a separate solenoid valve or a nozzle system – check behind the dispenser housing for a small valve with two wires -
Test the solenoid valve for continuity with the machine unplugged – using a multimeter on the correct high-resistance range -
Check the nozzle or lever mechanism if your machine uses one – confirm it moves freely and the spring is in place -
Check wiring connections to the valve – look for loose connectors or visible damage to the wiring between the PCB and the valve
Need a Repair or Replacement Part?
If the solenoid valve has failed or the nozzle mechanism needs replacing, Whitegoods Help can help.
Related Guides
Fabric Softener Taken Out Too SoonThe opposite problem – conditioner released during early rinses and washed away before it can work.
Fabric Softener Compartment Full of WaterWhy the conditioner compartment fills up and does not empty properly after the cycle.
Black Jelly in the Soap DispenserWhat causes black mould and residue in the dispenser, and how to clean it out completely.
How to Remove the Soap Dispenser DrawerStep-by-step guide to removing the drawer for thorough cleaning of the dispenser housing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my fabric softener still in the drawer after the wash?
If the cycle completed fully, the most likely cause is a failed solenoid valve that should flush water through the conditioner compartment but is not opening. Other causes include a jammed directional nozzle on older machines, or mould blocking the dispenser housing nozzles. If the cycle did not complete fully, the softener issue is a symptom of a different underlying fault.
How do I test the fabric softener solenoid valve?
Unplug the machine, disconnect the two wires from the valve, and use a multimeter to test continuity across the terminals. Set the meter to a high resistance range – solenoid coils have very thin windings and high resistance, and a meter on the wrong range may show a false open circuit. Compare the reading to the other inlet valves: all should read similarly. A different reading on the softener valve indicates it has failed.
My machine does not seem to have a separate softener valve – what should I check?
Some machines use a movable nozzle on top of the dispenser housing rather than a dedicated valve. A lever connected to the programme selector redirects water into the conditioner compartment at the correct point. With the drawer removed, inspect the top of the housing for this mechanism – check that it moves freely and that any spring is intact and in position.
Could mould in the drawer cause the softener not to dispense?
Yes, though it is less common than with the early-release fault. Heavy mould or blockage in the nozzles at the top of the dispenser housing can prevent water from being directed into the conditioner compartment. Remove the drawer and inspect the housing with a torch, cleaning any build-up thoroughly.
7 Comments
Grouped into 6 comment threads.
1 reply Thanks for the tip. In the case that they don't have a spare siphon part for my particular model of washing machine, is there a one size fits all part I could purchase? Thanks again
0 replies No John, they all have different designs. If it's leaving just a few millimetres of water behind it's probably a design weakness.
No John, they all have different designs. If it’s leaving just a few millimetres of water behind it’s probably a design weakness.
0 replies Hi can you tell me if all washing machines have the same length pipe that sits in the conditioner drawer ours is 4cms and there is always water just below the pipe end.
Hi can you tell me if all washing machines have the same length pipe that sits in the conditioner drawer ours is 4cms and there is always water just below the pipe end.
0 replies FIXED IT! I have tried all the suggestions I have found on the net; vinegar, scrubbing brushes, spray bleach etc but to no avail, so my 14 year old son and I decided to get stuck in and sort this out. We took the top off of our machine and found there was a moulded plastic box into which the detergent draw fits. The box has 2 pipes coming out of the back, which we soon worked out that; one was for the main wash detergent, the other was a combined one for the pre-wash detergent and softener(don’t know how that works). We ran the machine and could see water coming out of the pre-wash detergent side of the box, which confirmed we had a working water feed, so then assumed the softener side must have a blockage, which by the time we had finished was confirmed. 1. The quickest easiest thing to try, not needing you dismantle the machine, is to push something into the softener water outlet holes above the draw, I suggest you push it in the hole nearest the front of the draw and push it all the way to through to the back of the box (if poss). Finding something to use was the hardest thing, we went for a 25cm long Tie Wrap which we cut down its full length with scissors until it was thin enough to go into the water whole and down the moulded pipe. It was very tricky to get it started. 2. In conjunction with the above, but requiring you to gain access to the inside of your machine, remove the water feed from the pre-wash / softener pipe on the back of the box, put some bleach into the hole(spray bleach is easiest) followed by hot water, we actually managed to get the feed from out steam cleaner into the whole, which I think helped a lot. 3. Possible addition idea my son got a drinking straw, put it up to one of the softener water holes in the draw compartment and blew, this caused a large amount of gunk to come out of some of the other holes. I think this only worked as we had already soften’d the gunk using the bleach and steam cleaner. Do not under estimate how hard the gunk in the pipes can become and how hard it can be to remove, it took us 3.5 hours faffing around. We have a Zanussi washing machine.
FIXED IT!
I have tried all the suggestions I have found on the net; vinegar, scrubbing brushes, spray bleach etc but to no avail, so my 14 year old son and I decided to get stuck in and sort this out.
We took the top off of our machine and found there was a moulded plastic box into which the detergent draw fits. The box has 2 pipes coming out of the back, which we soon worked out that; one was for the main wash detergent, the other was a combined one for the pre-wash detergent and softener(don’t know how that works). We ran the machine and could see water coming out of the pre-wash detergent side of the box, which confirmed we had a working water feed, so then assumed the softener side must have a blockage, which by the time we had finished was confirmed.
1. The quickest easiest thing to try, not needing you dismantle the machine, is to push something into the softener water outlet holes above the draw, I suggest you push it in the hole nearest the front of the draw and push it all the way to through to the back of the box (if poss).
Finding something to use was the hardest thing, we went for a 25cm long Tie Wrap which we cut down its full length with scissors until it was thin enough to go into the water whole and down the moulded pipe. It was very tricky to get it started.
2. In conjunction with the above, but requiring you to gain access to the inside of your machine, remove the water feed from the pre-wash / softener pipe on the back of the box, put some bleach into the hole(spray bleach is easiest) followed by hot water, we actually managed to get the feed from out steam cleaner into the whole, which I think helped a lot.
3. Possible addition idea my son got a drinking straw, put it up to one of the softener water holes in the draw compartment and blew, this caused a large amount of gunk to come out of some of the other holes. I think this only worked as we had already soften’d the gunk using the bleach and steam cleaner.
Do not under estimate how hard the gunk in the pipes can become and how hard it can be to remove, it took us 3.5 hours faffing around.
We have a Zanussi washing machine.
0 replies The cap is missing so nothing will siphon up and out of the drawer. The cap is likely to be a very rarely required part and unlikely to be stocked anywhere. Buy a new one here - Soap dispenser drawers and siphons
The cap is missing so nothing will siphon up and out of the drawer. The cap is likely to be a very rarely required part and unlikely to be stocked anywhere. Buy a new one here – Soap dispenser drawers and siphons
0 replies Hi, I had this problem for a long time and decided to finally get around to working out what was up. I took out the drawer and there doesn’t appear to be any siphon attached. My washing machine is an Edesa LEA-6110. I can’t seem to find any spare siphon parts online. Is there a one size fits all part I could purchase? Thanks! : )
Hi, I had this problem for a long time and decided to finally get around to working out what was up. I took out the drawer and there doesn’t appear to be any siphon attached.
My washing machine is an Edesa LEA-6110. I can’t seem to find any spare siphon parts online. Is there a one size fits all part I could purchase?
Thanks! : )
Thanks for the tip. In the case that they don’t have a spare siphon part for my particular model of washing machine, is there a one size fits all part I could purchase?
Thanks again
Likely replying to Leo
Hello Leo. If there isn’t a spare siphon part a complete new dispenser drawer ought to have it already fitted although there is no guarantee unless you can see a picture of it. There is no universal fit part available. Even the manufacturer is unlikely to think there’s any money in stocking these parts and there’s definitely not a demand for them, so no independent manufacturer would ever dream of making them.
It might be possible for one from a different machine to fit and work but unless you can get one from an old machine somewhere they aren’t parts that are readily available simply because they virtually never need replacing.