How to remove a greyish white coating in drum
A white or grey coating on the inside of a washing machine drum is almost always limescale. Add around 20 grams of citric acid directly into the drum (not the detergent drawer) and run a 90°C cycle with no laundry. Repeat if necessary for heavier build-up.
A greyish or white coating on the inside of a washing machine drum is most commonly caused by limescale build-up. This can usually be removed with citric acid, but the method of adding it matters.
How to Remove the White Coating
Add around 20 grams of citric acid to the drum and run a 90°C cycle with no laundry inside. One treatment may be sufficient, but the process may need repeating for heavier build-up. Dedicated washing machine limescale removal products are also available as an alternative.
If added this way, it can run through into the sump hose before the wash has started and become diluted before reaching the drum. Instead, start the 90°C cycle and wait until the machine has been filling with water for around 10 seconds, then add the citric acid directly into the drum.
Why Limescale Is a Problem
If limescale is visible on the drum, it is very likely building up inside the machine in areas that cannot be seen – around hoses, on the heating element, and on internal components. Over time, this can shorten the lifespan of the machine by damaging hoses, corroding parts, and reducing heating element efficiency.
In theory, correct detergent usage should prevent limescale build-up, but many households still experience it. Incorrect detergent dosing is a common contributing factor. See: how limescale affects washing machines and is Calgon worth using?
Tumble Dryer Drums Can Also Be Affected
Limescale deposits can form on tumble dryer drums too, though it does not penetrate the machine in the same way as in a washing machine. On tumble dryers, limescale build-up can affect the moisture sensors that determine when laundry is dry, potentially causing over or under-drying. See: tumble dryer not drying properly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What causes the white or grey coating on a washing machine drum?
This is almost always limescale – mineral deposits left behind by hard water. Limescale accumulates on any surface that comes into contact with water repeatedly. The drum surface is particularly susceptible because it heats up during washes, which encourages limescale to precipitate out of the water and bond to surfaces.
How much citric acid do I use to clean the drum?
Around 20 grams added directly into the drum at the start of a 90°C cycle with no laundry inside. Do not put it in the detergent drawer – it should be added once the machine has started filling with water, after about 10 seconds, to prevent it from being diluted in the sump before the main wash begins.
Will one treatment remove all the limescale?
For light build-up, a single treatment is often sufficient. Heavier deposits may require the process to be repeated more than once. If citric acid alone is not producing results, a dedicated washing machine descaler product may be more effective for severe cases.
Washer dryer not heating on dry cycle
A washer dryer not heating on the dry cycle is most often caused by a tripped thermal overload cutout (TOC) rather than a failed heating element. Test the element for continuity first, then check each TOC. If a TOC has tripped, find and fix the cause of overheating before replacing it – never bypass a safety device.
A washer dryer not heating on the drying cycle will leave laundry cold and wet. The heater is an obvious first suspect, but in most cases the thermal overload cutouts (TOCs) or thermostats are the more likely cause.
Even when switched off, some wires may remain live. Always unplug the appliance before testing or inspecting any components.
Step 1 – Check the Heating Element
The heater used on the drying cycle is entirely separate from the one used on the wash cycle. On a washer dryer, the drying element is accessible from the top of the machine and has two clearly visible connectors for live and neutral.
Before testing, pull the wires off at least one of the element’s tags to prevent false continuity readings. Then test continuity across the element terminals with a multimeter. A working element will show a resistance reading – typically somewhere between 30 and 50 ohms. If the reading shows open circuit or very high resistance, the element has failed and needs replacing.
If a 500v insulation tester is available, check the insulation resistance from each terminal tag to earth. A leakage reading below 2 megaohms indicates the element is unsafe – it may blow fuses and should not be used. Any measurable leakage to earth is a concern and should be investigated.
Step 2 – Check the TOCs and Thermostats
If the element tests correctly, the TOCs (thermal overload cutouts) and thermostats are the next suspects. On a washer dryer, these components are located on top of the tub alongside the other drying parts, making them relatively easy to access.
TOCs are normally closed-circuit devices – they go open circuit when they blow. Test each one for continuity. An open circuit reading indicates the device has tripped or failed.
Some TOCs include a small reset peg in the centre. If one is found and pressed after the device has cooled, a click should be heard as it resets. However, if a TOC trips again after being reset, the underlying cause of the overheating must be found – the device should not simply be reset and ignored.
Some components look similar to a TOC but are thermistor devices – a modern type of thermostat. Thermistors are usually slightly larger than a TOC and will typically read open circuit at room temperature, but give varying resistance readings at increasing temperatures. Replacing a thermistor because it reads open circuit at room temperature would be an error. See: how to test an NTC thermistor.
If a TOC Has Tripped – Find Out Why
TOCs are thermal fuses. They are designed to trip only when the temperature rises to a dangerously high level. Finding a tripped TOC should prompt investigation into the root cause of the overheating, not just replacement of the device.
Running a dryer with any safety device bypassed removes fire protection entirely and could cause a fatal fire.
Common causes of overheating that can trip a TOC are listed below. Work through these before replacing any safety devices.
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Stopping the dryer mid-cycle. Opening the door or turning the dryer off while it is running causes the fan to stop. Latent heat from the element can then build up rapidly and trip the TOC before it dissipates.
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Overloading. A washer dryer can always wash more laundry than it can dry – often significantly more. Exceeding the drying load limit restricts airflow and causes overheating. Remove some laundry before starting the dry cycle if the drum is full from the wash.
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No cold water to the condenser (condenser washer dryers). Condenser washer dryers require cold water to run into the condenser chamber during drying. If this supply is interrupted, or a blockage prevents condenser water from draining, overheating will result.
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Faulty temperature sensor or stat. A failed sensor may report incorrect temperatures, causing the control system to allow the element to run beyond safe limits.
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Faulty or non-running dryer fan. If the fan fails or is not running at the correct speed, heat cannot be circulated and removed from the heating chamber, causing rapid overheating.
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Fluff and lint blockage. A build-up of fluff inside the heating and fan chamber restricts airflow and is a common cause of overheating across all washer dryer brands. This appears to be a design characteristic rather than a fault in individual machines.
Testing Tip – Timer Setting
When testing whether the heater is working on the drying cycle, be aware that the first 10 minutes on the timer dial typically apply no heat. To confirm the heater is energised during testing, turn the timer to at least 30 minutes. Testing at a low timer setting may give the false impression the fault has been fixed when the heater simply was not activated.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my washer dryer not heating on the dry cycle?
The most likely causes are a tripped thermal overload cutout (TOC) or failed thermostat rather than the heating element itself. Check the element for continuity first, then test each TOC and thermostat for open circuit. If a TOC has tripped, investigate the cause of overheating before replacing it – common causes include overloading, a blocked lint chamber, or a non-running fan.
What is a TOC on a washer dryer?
A TOC (thermal overload cutout) is a thermal fuse that protects the appliance from overheating. It is normally closed-circuit and trips to open circuit if the temperature exceeds a safe level. TOCs are deliberately designed to blow under extreme heat to prevent fires. Finding a blown TOC should prompt investigation into why overheating occurred, not simply replacement of the part.
Can I bypass the TOC to test if it is the problem?
No. Bypassing a TOC or any thermal safety device removes the only protection against the appliance overheating to the point of catching fire. This is extremely dangerous and must never be done. Test the TOC for continuity with a multimeter instead.
How do I tell the difference between a TOC and a thermistor?
They can look similar, but thermistors are usually slightly larger. A TOC reads as a closed circuit when working correctly and goes open circuit when blown. A thermistor reads open circuit at room temperature and gives varying resistance readings as temperature increases – so an open circuit reading at room temperature does not indicate failure. See: how to test an NTC thermistor.
Faults on Pressure System
The pressure system detects water levels in the drum using a sealed tube, a pressure chamber bottle, and a pressure switch. A blocked pressure chamber bottle is the most common fault – it traps air pressure and stops the machine spinning or causes overfilling. Always clear a blockage before suspecting the switch itself.
The pressure system on a washing machine tells the machine when water has reached the correct level and when the drum is empty. When something goes wrong with it, the machine can overfill, refuse to spin, or abort its programme entirely.
All the symptoms described in this article have other possible causes. Never assume the pressure system is at fault without ruling out other causes first. A full understanding of how the system works is essential before attempting diagnosis. See: how a washing machine controls water levels.
What Is the Pressure System?
The pressure system consists of several connected components: a pressure chamber bottle at the base of the outer drum, a length of narrow tubing, and a pressure switch. Its function is straightforward – to signal to the washing machine when water inside the drum has reached the set level, and when the drum is empty after draining. Without these signals, the machine cannot control water intake or spin correctly.
The Pressure Switch
Pressure switches are normally very reliable and are usually the last component to suspect. Before considering a faulty switch, all other causes – especially a blocked pressure chamber bottle – should be ruled out first.
A switch stuck in the on position will make the machine think water is present when there is none, causing it to skip or refuse the fast spin. A switch stuck in the off position will tell the machine the drum is empty when it is not, causing it to overfill. Neither of these symptoms is exclusively caused by a faulty switch – a blockage in the pressure system is a far more likely explanation for the switch appearing to be stuck.
Modern Pressure Switches
Older pressure switches used mechanical contacts operated by air pressure and remained largely unchanged in design for over 40 years. Modern pressure switches use small coils with magnets inside, producing different resistance readings depending on the air pressure applied. These newer designs have fewer moving parts and should in theory be equally reliable, though diagnosing them is more difficult without knowing the expected resistance values for a specific model.
The Pressure Tubing
The narrow tube running between the pressure chamber bottle and the pressure switch must be completely airtight. Damage to the tube, or air leaks at either connection point, will cause a loss of air pressure. Without a sealed system, sufficient pressure cannot build up to activate or hold the pressure switch, which can result in the machine overfilling.
Inspect the full length of the tube for cracks, splits, or loose connections at both ends.
The Pressure Chamber Bottle
The pressure chamber is a small plastic bottle at the base of the outer drum where the pressure tube connects. Blockages here are the most common cause of pressure system faults.
If the chamber becomes blocked with detergent residue or debris, water inside the chamber cannot drain away when the machine empties. This traps air pressure in the tube, holding the pressure switch in the on position and making the machine think the drum is still full. The result is that the machine will not proceed to a fast spin.
A blockage can also prevent water from entering the chamber at all, which can cause the machine to take in too much water or overfill. This type of blockage needs to be more solid to produce this symptom, as the volume of water in the tub can sometimes force its way past partial blockages into the bottle – but once inside, even a small amount of water cannot escape past the blockage when draining.
Pneumatic Door Locks and the Pressure Tube
On some older washing machines (more common on 1990s models), a branch of the pressure tubing connects to a pneumatic door interlock. Air pressure from the same system is used to hold the door locked when water is present. A blockage in the pressure chamber can therefore also trap air in the branch leading to the door lock, preventing the door from opening even after the water has been pumped away. See: different types of door locks.
Fixing a Blocked Pressure System
For a step-by-step guide to diagnosing and clearing a blocked pressure system, see: how to clear a blocked pressure system.
Other Symptoms Linked to the Pressure System
The following symptoms can also be caused by pressure system faults – though as with all symptoms in this guide, other unrelated faults can produce the same results:
- Not taking in water – the machine may think water is already present. See: washing machine not taking in water.
- Refusing to spin – the machine may think the drum is still full. See: washing machine not spinning.
- Programme abort and error code – a pressure system fault can trigger the machine to stop and display an error. See: appliance error codes.
Pressure system faults can be difficult to diagnose and easy to misdiagnose.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does the pressure system do on a washing machine?
It detects when water inside the drum has reached the correct level and when the drum is empty after draining. It uses a sealed air tube connected to a pressure chamber bottle and a pressure switch to send these signals to the machine’s control system. Without accurate signals, the machine cannot control water intake or spin correctly.
What causes a washing machine to overfill?
A common cause is a fault in the pressure system – either a blocked pressure chamber bottle preventing the pressure switch from activating, damage to the air tube causing a loss of pressure, or in rarer cases a faulty pressure switch. However, overfilling can also be caused by a faulty water inlet valve, so pressure system faults should not be assumed without proper diagnosis. See: washing machine overfilling.
Why won’t my washing machine do a fast spin?
If the pressure system is at fault, the machine may believe the drum still contains water and refuse to spin to avoid flooding. A blocked pressure chamber bottle is the most common cause – it traps air pressure and holds the pressure switch in the on position. However, a failed drain pump, blocked filter, or other unrelated fault can produce the same symptom. See: washing machine not spinning.
Is a faulty pressure switch likely?
Pressure switches are very reliable components and are usually the last thing to suspect. If the pressure switch appears to be stuck – whether on or off – the most likely explanation is a blockage in the pressure chamber bottle holding the system in a fixed state, not a failed switch. Clear any blockage and retest before considering switch replacement.
How a washing machine controls water levels
Water level is controlled by a pressure switch connected via a narrow tube to a small bottle at the base of the drum. As water fills the drum, air is pushed up the tube and activates the switch. When the drum drains, pressure releases and the switch resets, telling the machine it is safe to spin.
All washing machines use the same system to control water levels inside the drum. It works on air pressure and is normally very reliable. When it does go wrong it can cause overfilling, flooding, or problems with filling and spinning – and on modern machines it will usually trigger an error code and abort the wash cycle.
How a Washing Machine Controls Water Levels
The washing machine needs to know when water is entering the drum, what level it has reached, and when it has fully drained. This is handled by a component called the pressure switch, connected via a narrow tube to a small plastic bottle at the base of the outer drum called the pressure chamber.
The pressure switch sits inside the machine, typically near the top under the lid. It has several wires connected to it and a thin rubber or plastic tube running down to the pressure chamber bottle. Despite the technical-sounding name, the pressure chamber is simply a small plastic bottle attached to the outer drum.
How the Pressure System Works
As water enters the main drum during a wash cycle, some of it also flows into the pressure chamber bottle. As the water level in the bottle rises, it forces air upward through the narrow tube. This increasing air pressure pushes against a rubber diaphragm inside the pressure switch, activating spring-loaded contacts inside it. When enough pressure builds up, the switch activates and tells the washing machine that the water has reached the correct level.
When the pump drains the drum, water also drains from the pressure chamber bottle. As the water level drops, air pressure in the tube is released. The spring-loaded switch inside the pressure switch returns to its resting position, signalling to the machine that the drum is empty and it is safe to proceed to fast spin.
Single, Double, and Triple Level Switches
Some pressure switches have only one level of activation, others have two (wash and rinse), and some older machines had three (wash, rinse, and overfill protection). The number of wires connected to the switch indicates how many levels it operates – more wires means more levels. A switch can be gently tested by blowing into it carefully and counting the number of clicks, which should correspond to the number of levels.
Modern Pressure Switches
Older pressure switches used a mechanical rubber diaphragm and spring-loaded contacts, a design that remained largely unchanged for decades. Modern washing machines use a different type of pressure switch that contains a coil and magnet, producing different resistance readings depending on the air pressure applied. The operating principle is the same – air pressure created by rising water levels activates the switch – but the internal mechanism differs. Diagnosing modern switches is more complex without knowing the expected resistance values for a specific model.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How does a washing machine know when it has enough water?
A small pressure chamber bottle is attached to the base of the outer drum. As water fills the drum, it also enters the bottle, forcing air up a narrow tube connected to a pressure switch. The rising air pressure activates the switch, signalling to the machine that the water has reached the correct level.
How does the machine know when the drum is empty?
When the pump drains the drum, water also drains from the pressure chamber bottle. As the water level drops, air pressure in the tube is released. The pressure switch returns to its resting position, signalling that the drum is empty and it is safe to proceed to fast spin.
What can go wrong with the pressure system?
The most common fault is a blockage in the pressure chamber bottle, which can trap air and make the machine think the drum is full when it is empty – preventing fast spin. Damage to the pressure tube or air leaks at connection points can prevent enough pressure building up and cause overfilling. A faulty pressure switch is possible but far less common than a blockage. See: faults on the pressure system.
How to repair a plastic outer drum
A thin crack in a plastic washing machine drum can often be repaired using a soldering iron to melt and seal the plastic, followed by a layer of Debor flexible sealant as a second defence. Sealing tape is a third option for cracks on flat surfaces. Holes are much harder to repair successfully and may require a replacement drum.
It is sometimes possible to repair a cracked or holed plastic washing machine outer drum rather than replacing it. This guide covers three repair methods and explains how to identify and remove the cause of the damage before starting any repair.
Before Starting Any Repair – Find the Cause
Coins are a common cause of cracks and holes in plastic drums, but any metal object can cause damage. Before attempting any repair, the object that caused the damage must be found and removed – otherwise it will simply cause further damage.
A thin crack was most likely caused by the impact of a metal object. The object will still be inside the machine somewhere. A large hole may mean the object was punched right through – check the floor around the machine and inside the base of the appliance.
Carefully examine the inner drum for dents, which are evidence of an obstruction. Check inside the sump hose and pump filter. Tilt the machine gently from side to side and front to back – if something slides around, it is still inside.
For help retrieving a stuck object: how to remove something stuck in a washing machine drum.
Method 1 – Soldering Iron
A soldering iron is an effective tool for sealing thin cracks in plastic drums. The technique involves using the heat of the iron to melt the surrounding plastic and fuse it across the crack.
Get the iron fully hot before starting. Work slowly and gently along the crack, bringing plastic from each side of the crack over to melt into it. Be careful not to apply too much pressure – a hot soldering iron can go straight through thin plastic drum material very easily. If the iron cools before the crack is fully sealed, unplug it, allow it to reheat, and continue.
Ideally the crack should be sealed from both inside and outside the drum. In practice this is often not possible as many modern drums are welded together and cannot be stripped down. If the drum has already been stripped for inspection, sealing from the inside as well is worthwhile.
Method 2 – Washing Machine Sealant
After sealing a crack with a soldering iron, applying a layer of flexible sealant over the repair provides additional protection. Washing machine engineers use a specialist product called Debor sealant, which is both flexible and heat-resistant. Roughen the area around the repair with sandpaper, then apply a generous patch of sealant covering the sealed crack and the surrounding area.
Method 3 – Sealing Tape
Waterproof sealing tape is a third option for cracks on flat sections of the drum. Products such as Gorilla tape, which is marketed as weatherproof and waterproof, may be suitable for this application. Apply plenty of tape with generous overlaps to ensure a thorough seal. Check the repair periodically – if the tape starts to peel at the edges, the seal is at risk of failing.
Repairing a Hole in the Drum
Holes are significantly harder to repair than cracks. A large hole, or one in an awkward location, will most likely require a replacement outer drum or a new machine.
If the hole is small and accessible, and especially if the piece of plastic that was punched out is still available, a repair may be possible. If the piece fits back in place without pushing through into the drum, try bonding it with epoxy resin such as Araldite. Once bonded, seal the edges with a soldering iron and cover the entire repair with waterproof tape.
A failed repair during a wash cycle can result in a serious flood. If there is any doubt about the integrity of the repair, do not use the machine until it has been checked by a professional.
Can You Claim on Home Insurance?
If the damage was caused by a foreign object getting inside the machine, it may be covered under accidental damage cover on a home contents insurance policy. Check the policy terms – some policies specifically cover appliance damage caused by accidental means.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can a cracked washing machine drum be repaired?
Often yes, if the crack is thin and the cause of the damage has been found and removed. A soldering iron can be used to melt and seal the plastic, followed by flexible sealant such as Debor as a second layer of protection. Waterproof sealing tape is a further option for cracks on flat sections. A successful repair depends on fully sealing the crack – any remaining leak path can result in flooding.
What causes cracks and holes in a washing machine drum?
Metal objects – most commonly coins – that get into the outer drum during a wash. The spinning action drives the object against the plastic wall at speed, causing cracks or punching a hole through it. The object causing the damage must be found and removed before any repair is attempted, otherwise it will cause further damage.
What if the damage is a hole rather than a crack?
Holes are harder to repair. A large hole or one in a difficult location will usually require a replacement outer drum or a new machine. A small, accessible hole may be repairable if the broken piece of plastic is available – it can be bonded back with epoxy resin, sealed with a soldering iron, and covered with waterproof tape. Any such repair must be watertight before the machine is used.
How to remove soap drawer
Pull the drawer fully open, then look for a tab or latch at the back to press down or up to release it. If there is nothing obvious, some drawers simply require a firm pull to overcome a small stop at the base. Always check the instruction manual first – it will describe the exact method for that model.
Most washing machine soap dispenser drawers are designed to be fully removed for cleaning, but the release mechanism is not always obvious. This guide covers how to work out which type of release the drawer has and how to remove it safely.
Check the Instruction Manual First
The instruction manual will almost always describe exactly how to remove the soap drawer on that specific model. If the manual is not available, it can often be downloaded from the manufacturer’s website. Links to manufacturer manual download pages are available at: instruction books and user manuals.
How to Remove the Soap Dispenser Drawer
Every drawer has some kind of stop mechanism at the back to prevent it falling out during normal use. The method of overcoming this stop varies between manufacturers and models. Work through these steps in order:
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Pull the drawer fully open. Extend it as far as it will go before the stop engages.
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Look for a tab or lever at the back. Most drawers have something to press down at the back of the drawer – often a plastic tab or latch – which releases the stop and allows the drawer to pull all the way out.
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Check underneath the drawer. If there is nothing to press from above, look under the drawer at the back for something to push upward. Some cheaper machines use this arrangement instead.
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Try lifting and pulling simultaneously. Some older drawers have no button or tab at all and require the drawer to be lifted slightly while pulling, to ride over the stop at the base.
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If no mechanism is obvious, a firm pull may be needed. Some drawers – particularly on older machines – are designed to pull out with enough force to override a small plastic stop. However, see the caution below before attempting this.
The decorative front of the drawer is typically clipped on and will break off easily under force. If a firm pull is needed, grip the drawer by the sides close to the back, not by the front face.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How do I remove the soap drawer from my washing machine?
Pull the drawer fully open and look for a tab or latch at the back to press down or push up, which releases the stop and allows the drawer to pull all the way out. Some older drawers require lifting slightly while pulling, or a firm pull to override a small stop. Always grip the drawer by the sides near the back – never pull by the front panel as it will break off.
My soap drawer has no obvious release button – how do I get it out?
Some drawers have no button or tab. Try lifting the front of the drawer slightly while pulling – this can help ride over a stop at the base. Other drawers are designed to simply pull out with enough force to override the stop. Check under the drawer at the back for any upward-push mechanism before trying force. Always grip by the sides near the back, not the front face.
Where can I find the instructions for removing the drawer on my machine?
The instruction manual will describe the exact method for the specific model. If the original manual has been lost, it can often be downloaded from the manufacturer’s website. Links to manufacturer download pages are available at: instruction books and user manuals.