Tumble dryer not heating
The most common causes of a tumble dryer not heating are a failed heating element, a tripped or failed thermal cutout (TOC), or a failed thermostat. On condenser dryers, a full or faulty condensate float switch can also cut off the heater. Replacing a TOC without finding why it tripped will usually result in the new one failing in the same way.
Thermal cutouts and thermostats are safety devices that protect against dangerous overheating. Bypassing one to test whether it is the fault can cause a dryer to reach temperatures that start a fire. Always replace a failed device – never bridge it out.
Thermostats and Thermal Cutouts (TOCs)
The thermostat and TOC are the most frequently misidentified components in a no-heat fault. They look very similar – small, round, roughly the size of a 5p coin, with a wire connected to each side – and both interrupt the power supply to the heating element when they operate. Understanding how they differ is important before testing or replacing either.
Thermostat (stat)Designed to reset when it cools down. Used to regulate drying temperature by repeatedly switching the heater on and off during the cycle. A lack of continuity on a thermostat may not indicate failure – some have high resistance through heat-sensitive crystals at certain temperatures. Do not assume a stat has failed purely on a cold continuity reading without being certain it is a TOC and not a stat.
Thermal cutout (TOC)A one-shot heat-activated fuse. Designed to operate only under dangerously high temperatures and does not normally reset. If a TOC is found open circuit it has almost certainly failed – but it has done so because something caused overheating. Replacing it without finding the underlying cause is likely to result in the new TOC failing in the same way.
If you are not certain whether a component is a thermostat or a TOC, do not proceed based on a guess. Some White Knight and similar basic vented dryers have a resettable cutout with a red button on the rear panel – if it has tripped it can be reset by pressing it once the machine has cooled. If it continues tripping, the underlying cause must be found.
Where Are Thermostats and TOCs Located?
Both are positioned close to the heating element – they need to be, since they respond to the heat the element produces. On some vented dryers the heating element and its associated stats are accessible from the rear panel. On many condenser dryers and more complex machines, the element and stats are at the front of the drum housing and can only be reached after removing the front panel and drum.
If the stats are not visible after removing the lid or back panel, do not proceed with strip-down unless confident in the reassembly – condenser dryers in particular can be very difficult to reassemble correctly.
Testing Thermostats and TOCs
Both are tested with a continuity meter. A normally functioning device should show a complete circuit (continuity) from one terminal to the other. An open circuit result on a TOC indicates it has failed. Take care with thermostats – see the note above about heat-sensitive resistance.
Why Did the TOC Fail? Find the Cause Before Replacing It
A TOC that has operated is a symptom, not the root fault. Something caused the overheating that triggered it. Replacing the TOC without identifying and resolving that cause will almost certainly result in the replacement failing.
Blocked or restricted airflow
Filters – particularly on condenser dryers which may have several filters in different locations – can become blocked with lint and restrict the airflow over the heating element. Clean all filters thoroughly, including any that are not in plain sight. On vented dryers, a blocked or severely kinked vent hose has the same effect. Check the vent hose runs clearly with no sharp bends.
Fan not running
If the fan that circulates air over the heating element is not running correctly, heat builds up rapidly. A seized fan bearing or failed fan motor will cause the element to overheat without the airflow to carry heat away. This requires internal access to diagnose.
Overloading the drum
An overloaded drum restricts airflow through the laundry and can cause heat to build up inside the machine. Check the load against the drum’s rated capacity.
Stopping the dryer mid-cycle
On some dryers, stopping the machine before the cooldown phase is complete causes heat to build up inside without the fan running to dissipate it. This can trip or permanently damage the thermal cutout. See our guide on why you should not stop a tumble dryer mid-cycle.
Failed thermostat
If the thermostat that normally cycles the heater on and off has failed in the closed position, the heater runs continuously without temperature regulation. This will cause overheating and eventually trigger the TOC. A thermostat fault must be confirmed before replacing the TOC.
Faulty Heating Element
A failed heating element is another common cause of a dryer that runs but produces no heat. The element may have broken internally – sometimes visible as a physical break in the element wire – or may have failed without obvious physical damage.
Testing is carried out with a continuity meter. A complete circuit through the element confirms it is intact. An open circuit confirms it has failed. Heating elements for most brands and models are available from Spares4Appliances.
Accessing the heating element on most tumble dryers requires significant strip-down. Some basic vented dryers have elements accessible from the rear panel. Most condenser dryers and many vented dryers require the front panel and drum to be removed before the element can be reached. Check whether access is possible from the rear before attempting a fuller strip-down.
Condenser Dryer Specific: Float Switch and Sensor Faults
Condenser dryers are designed to cut off the heating element automatically if the condensate collection drawer becomes full – to prevent water overflowing inside the machine. If the drawer is full, emptying it should restore heating.
If the drawer is empty but the heater still will not come on, the float switch or water level sensor that detects a full drawer may have failed in the triggered position – telling the machine the drawer is full when it is not. This is a less common but known fault on condenser dryers. The sensor or float switch will need testing and replacing.
Need an Engineer?
Heating element and TOC replacement often require full strip-down and careful reassembly. A qualified engineer can diagnose and repair the fault correctly.
Summary: Common Causes of No Heat
| Cause | How to check | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Failed TOC (thermal cutout) | Continuity test – open circuit = failed | Find what caused overheating before replacing |
| Failed thermostat | Continuity test with caution – see note on heat-sensitive resistance | Do not confuse with TOC – different behaviour |
| Failed heating element | Continuity test or visual inspection for break | Access usually requires partial or full strip-down |
| Blocked filters or airflow | Check and clean all filters including hidden ones | Most common root cause of TOC failure |
| Blocked or kinked vent hose (vented dryers) | Check hose runs clear with no sharp bends or crushes | Can cause TOC to operate repeatedly |
| Full or faulty condensate float switch (condenser dryers) | Empty the drawer – if heater still off, test the switch | Switch may have failed in triggered position |
Related Guides
Why You Should Not Stop a Tumble Dryer Mid-CycleHow stopping the machine early can cause thermal cutout failure and why the cooldown phase matters.
Tumble Dryer Fire Risk From Blocked FiltersWhy blocked lint filters are a fire hazard and how regular cleaning prevents overheating faults.
Tumble Dryer Drum Not TurningBelt, motor, and capacitor faults that cause the drum to stop rotating.
Condenser or Vented Tumble Dryer?The differences between condenser and vented dryers – including maintenance and fault differences.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a TOC and why has it tripped?
A TOC (thermal overload cutout) is a one-shot heat-activated fuse that protects the dryer against dangerous overheating. When it triggers it permanently opens the circuit, cutting power to the heating element. It does not reset. It has tripped because something caused the dryer to overheat – most commonly a blocked filter, a blocked vent hose, or a fan fault. Replacing the TOC without finding and fixing the cause will result in the replacement failing in the same way.
Can I bypass a TOC or thermostat to test if it is the fault?
No. Bypassing a TOC or thermostat removes the thermal protection from the dryer. The machine can then reach temperatures that cause a fire. Always replace a suspected faulty device with a correct replacement – never bridge it out, even temporarily.
My condenser dryer stopped heating – what should I check first?
Start by emptying the condensate collection drawer and checking all lint filters are clean. If the drawer was full, the machine will have cut off the heater automatically. Once emptied, the heater should restore. If the drawer is empty but the heater is still off, the float switch or water level sensor may have failed in the triggered position and will need testing.
Is a faulty heating element easy to replace?
It depends on the machine. A small number of basic vented dryers have elements that slot in and out from the rear panel. Most other dryers – particularly condenser models – require the front panel and drum to be removed to access the element. This is a significant strip-down that can be difficult to reassemble correctly without experience.
41 Comments
Grouped into 27 comment threads.
3 replies Hi, would be grateful for advice. My White Knight c44a7w tumble dryer stopped heating. I have stripped the machine, tested the heating element ( by disconnecting all wires) - closed circuit. Tested both the thermostat and the safety sensor (with red button on it) - both are closed. To be absolutely sure I have short-circuitted both sensors but again the heater is not coming on. Visual inspection found no loose wires, broken or burnt parts , the machine is less than 18 months old. The only suspicion i am left with is there is a control board with a couple of resistors, capacitor etc closer to the front panel - could it be that this board is not 'sending' power to the heater? I have even tested low/high button disconnecting one of the heaters - all seems to work. Generally speaking, if the heater, stat and TOC are tested to be ok, where else should I look? Thank you
0 replies I've seen cases where a dryer had 2 elements and one was working but the other not. That could explain getting warm but not hot Tracey. There are other potential causes though such as sensor faults.
I’ve seen cases where a dryer had 2 elements and one was working but the other not. That could explain getting warm but not hot Tracey. There are other potential causes though such as sensor faults.
0 replies My indesit condenser dryer is only warm and not heating on full, any ideas what it could be please
My indesit condenser dryer is only warm and not heating on full, any ideas what it could be please
0 replies Straight away Maggie. If it trips again shortly after it will be tripping because of a fault and needs looking at.
Straight away Maggie. If it trips again shortly after it will be tripping because of a fault and needs looking at.
0 replies I had a white knight vented dryer that is blowing cold air. I have pressed the red reset button and it did click...how long should I wait before trying it again?
I had a white knight vented dryer that is blowing cold air. I have pressed the red reset button and it did click…how long should I wait before trying it again?
0 replies Hi I have a Lamona tumble drier which was not heating but still running. I have changed the heater , thermostat and PCB board yet it cuts out the heat when running, it seems to be when it reverses could it be the timer ?
Hi I have a Lamona tumble drier which was not heating but still running. I have changed the heater , thermostat and PCB board yet it cuts out the heat when running, it seems to be when it reverses could it be the timer ?
0 replies I agree it's better to get an engineer in. Even if you found the toc's you need to try and work out why they have tripped. There's not a lot the average user can do on the DIY tumble dryer front in my opinion.
I agree it’s better to get an engineer in. Even if you found the toc’s you need to try and work out why they have tripped. There’s not a lot the average user can do on the DIY tumble dryer front in my opinion.
0 replies I have a very old dryer. Right now I'm looking for the stat or the TOC, but I have no idea where to even look. The dryer stopped heating a few days ago so we have been hang drying our laundry in the house. I think we will just hire a repairman because we need our dryer working ASAP.
I have a very old dryer. Right now I’m looking for the stat or the TOC, but I have no idea where to even look. The dryer stopped heating a few days ago so we have been hang drying our laundry in the house. I think we will just hire a repairman because we need our dryer working ASAP.
5 replies Hi there and thanks for a great article. This has been a learning curve for me - my Whirlpool AWZ8577 condensing tumble dryer stopped heating. Checked the NTC thermal limiter and it's fine so went into the heating element and that's where the fault is - sadly, my knowledge became a bit sticky here - I could see two thermostats (which are fine) and one NTC sensor (again, it's fine) but a similar but white part which was burned out - had absolutely no clue what it was but thanks to your article, I'm guessing it's a TOC? Ordered a new heating element, fitted it but still no heat coming through - I've gone through everything in your article but can't think of where else to check - have you any suggestions please?
Hi there and thanks for a great article. This has been a learning curve for me – my Whirlpool AWZ8577 condensing tumble dryer stopped heating. Checked the NTC thermal limiter and it’s fine so went into the heating element and that’s where the fault is – sadly, my knowledge became a bit sticky here – I could see two thermostats (which are fine) and one NTC sensor (again, it’s fine) but a similar but white part which was burned out – had absolutely no clue what it was but thanks to your article, I’m guessing it’s a TOC?
Ordered a new heating element, fitted it but still no heat coming through – I’ve gone through everything in your article but can’t think of where else to check – have you any suggestions please?
Likely replying to Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp)
Hi Andy, I am having a simular problem with my Hoover VHV 680C. It is not heating up, I have fitted a new complete heater element, stat and thermal cut out essembly. There apears to be no power to the unit from the PCB behind the control/function knob. There is power to it but nothing appears to be coming out. I can see a couple of relays do these sometimes go or can you point me in the right direction.
Likely replying to Stewart
Hello Stewart. The heating element, stat and thermal cutout should all be tested with a meter to see if they are faulty or not. I honestly can’t recommend replacing any part at all because a fault has to be traced using a meter or by physically seeing that something is broken before replacing any part. It could all turn out to be caused by a broken wire somewhere or a faulty jammed float switch.
1 reply THERMAL CUT-OUT !!! Thanks very much........simple repair
THERMAL CUT-OUT !!!
Thanks very much……..simple repair
Leave a comment
1 reply hi yes but this tumble dryer did have any heating element its got heating pump
hi yes but this tumble dryer did have any heating element its got heating pump
Likely replying to chris
Hi Chris, I’ve not dealt with faults on those but as far as I know the heating pump is just a fridge-type compressor which stores and redistributes heat which would otherwise be wasted. It should still use a heating element and stats. Some of these modern dryers can be quite complex to repair, certainly compared with old school types.
0 replies No offence Chris, but that's exactly why I wrote this article and part two (linked at the base of it) so all my help is in the articles.
No offence Chris, but that’s exactly why I wrote this article and part two (linked at the base of it) so all my help is in the articles.
0 replies Hu Andy what could be if my Electrolux EDH3498RDL Free Standing 9Kg Reverse Action Condenser Tumble Dryer stoped drying? Everything is working ok only no heating.
Hu Andy what could be if my Electrolux EDH3498RDL Free Standing 9Kg Reverse Action Condenser Tumble Dryer stoped drying?
Everything is working ok only no heating.
1 reply Well, the part has arrived - and is totally different from the original. But it is also different from the thermostat originally fitted, so may be the right part that has been updated. However, the mounting flange is at the wrong angle to if you use the mounting holes provided the leads are too short, so won't reach. The only way of mounting it will be to drill two holes and use self-tapping screws to mount it 90 degrees round so the wires reach properly withoutr being stretched. So it is not a direct replacement, though it can be made to fit, which should not be necessary. Futher, the returns policy states "No returns are accepted back without prior authorisation and must be UNOPENED and in 'AS NEW' condition" (Their parenthesis and upper case). That means that anyone who has to open the packaging to check whether it fits (everyone?) will never be able to claim a refund! To check the fit you have to offer it up to the mounting, so you have to open the plasic package so you can do a test fit. So I have to keep it anyway because of that restriction! I'll keep it to hand as a spare.
Well, the part has arrived – and is totally different from the original. But it is also different from the thermostat originally fitted, so may be the right part that has been updated. However, the mounting flange is at the wrong angle to if you use the mounting holes provided the leads are too short, so won’t reach. The only way of mounting it will be to drill two holes and use self-tapping screws to mount it 90 degrees round so the wires reach properly withoutr being stretched.
So it is not a direct replacement, though it can be made to fit, which should not be necessary.
Futher, the returns policy states “No returns are accepted back without prior authorisation and must be UNOPENED and in ‘AS NEW’ condition” (Their parenthesis and upper case). That means that anyone who has to open the packaging to check whether it fits (everyone?) will never be able to claim a refund! To check the fit you have to offer it up to the mounting, so you have to open the plasic package so you can do a test fit. So I have to keep it anyway because of that restriction! I’ll keep it to hand as a spare.
Likely replying to Mike Perry
Hi Mike, that’s exactly what the guy on the comment said, he said you needed to either extend the wires or drill holes so it can be lined up properly. Is there any thing on the part which indicated a temperature it’s calibrated for?
Also, the disclaimer is only to put people off who order parts, fit them, then realise they misdiagnosed the fault and try to get their money back. If the part is not as described on the web site then without doubt you are entitled to a full refund under the sale of goods act. Opening the part and even attempting to fit it is often when you find out it’s the wrong part.
0 replies I got the impression all he had to do was drill different fixing holes or extend the wires because the angle of the tabs for the wires was different. If it was seated in exactly the same hole the only issue is if it was going to trip at the same temperature or not. I would always advise to use the proper part though, particularly when the part is designed to prevent a fire.
I got the impression all he had to do was drill different fixing holes or extend the wires because the angle of the tabs for the wires was different. If it was seated in exactly the same hole the only issue is if it was going to trip at the same temperature or not. I would always advise to use the proper part though, particularly when the part is designed to prevent a fire.
0 replies They may or may not be set to the same trip temperature but the thermal flow to the device is also critical. That flow through the casing and 'fluid' medium (the air usually in these instances) is an integral part of the design process and is tested before going into production. If the flow rate of heat energy is lower than the design requirement than it may not trip and might be a potential fire hazard! If the thermal flow is too great then it may well trip unnecessarily and cause unrequired 'failures'. That is why safety parts should always be replaced with manufacturer approved parts that give the same degree of protection as the OEM part fitted in manufacture. And fitted in the same way as is done in manufacture.
They may or may not be set to the same trip temperature but the thermal flow to the device is also critical. That flow through the casing and ‘fluid’ medium (the air usually in these instances) is an integral part of the design process and is tested before going into production. If the flow rate of heat energy is lower than the design requirement than it may not trip and might be a potential fire hazard! If the thermal flow is too great then it may well trip unnecessarily and cause unrequired ‘failures’. That is why safety parts should always be replaced with manufacturer approved parts that give the same degree of protection as the OEM part fitted in manufacture. And fitted in the same way as is done in manufacture.
0 replies Yes Mike, it's not advisable to do what the guy did, they are potentially different fitting and not interchangeable in order to prevent the wrong ones being fitted. It's possible they are set to trip at the same temperature though in which case I can't see a problem as long as the trip temperature is printed on them and matches. If not he could now have one which trips too early or too late. Of course some people would be daft enough to bypass one altogether - nasty!
Yes Mike, it’s not advisable to do what the guy did, they are potentially different fitting and not interchangeable in order to prevent the wrong ones being fitted. It’s possible they are set to trip at the same temperature though in which case I can’t see a problem as long as the trip temperature is printed on them and matches.
If not he could now have one which trips too early or too late. Of course some people would be daft enough to bypass one altogether – nasty!
0 replies I have ordered the part and will see if it is in any way substantially the same as the original part. If it is not then I shall return it for a refund and let you know. With my electronics 'hat' on, I always get very worried when I read comments such as you repeat. With a safety critical part the fitting is not the whole story. As they had to modify the part to get it to fit they have no way of telling if the safety response of the device has been maintained and matches that of the original device and hence have no way of telling whether their machine is safe to operate! They say it works, but they only mean the machine operates as they are highly unlikely to be able to test the safety response as that takes specialist test equipment that even I do not have access to. It's like someone saying they've repaired their lights by fitting a 13 Amp fuse instead of a 2 Amp and assuming it's fixed because the light came on again and the fuse didn't immediately blow! Plus there is always a reason for such items to fail, in my case I discovered that the tubing carrying the 'waste' air out had gathered lint fluff over the years so reducing the free flow of the air out of the machine (vents are almost always outside and when was the last time you checked the free flow of air out of it?) and hence causing excessive heat internally. So I had to virtually dismantle the machine, quite easy for me fortunately, and clean out all the ducting. Add to that the fact that no user manual I have seen makes any mention of cleaning out the internal ducting, presumably as the manufacturer sees that as a service operation and would be chargeable.
I have ordered the part and will see if it is in any way substantially the same as the original part. If it is not then I shall return it for a refund and let you know.
With my electronics ‘hat’ on, I always get very worried when I read comments such as you repeat. With a safety critical part the fitting is not the whole story. As they had to modify the part to get it to fit they have no way of telling if the safety response of the device has been maintained and matches that of the original device and hence have no way of telling whether their machine is safe to operate! They say it works, but they only mean the machine operates as they are highly unlikely to be able to test the safety response as that takes specialist test equipment that even I do not have access to. It’s like someone saying they’ve repaired their lights by fitting a 13 Amp fuse instead of a 2 Amp and assuming it’s fixed because the light came on again and the fuse didn’t immediately blow! Plus there is always a reason for such items to fail, in my case I discovered that the tubing carrying the ‘waste’ air out had gathered lint fluff over the years so reducing the free flow of the air out of the machine (vents are almost always outside and when was the last time you checked the free flow of air out of it?) and hence causing excessive heat internally. So I had to virtually dismantle the machine, quite easy for me fortunately, and clean out all the ducting. Add to that the fact that no user manual I have seen makes any mention of cleaning out the internal ducting, presumably as the manufacturer sees that as a service operation and would be chargeable.
0 replies Sorry about that Mike, come to think of it I do remember now that some of them were flat. Ordering the part could be a waste of time and if it is that's gonna be annoying but I hope (and presume) you agree with the logic that the part is listed as being the one you want, it has a different price to the other stat (which the pic looks like), it's listed specifically as a 1 shot cut-out, and if there's only two devices like this on the dryer why would there be 3 separate parts like that? Also, there's a comment on the part from a customer who says he bought the part as a replacement TOC (thermal overload cut-out) for a different model and had to modify it to get it to fit but it worked. Therefore, with all evidence pointing to it being the right part other than the photo it seems a fair bet that it might just be an incorrect photo. Please let us know what happens and if it is the wrong part I will let them know personally to get them to change it.
Sorry about that Mike, come to think of it I do remember now that some of them were flat. Ordering the part could be a waste of time and if it is that’s gonna be annoying but I hope (and presume) you agree with the logic that the part is listed as being the one you want, it has a different price to the other stat (which the pic looks like), it’s listed specifically as a 1 shot cut-out, and if there’s only two devices like this on the dryer why would there be 3 separate parts like that? Also, there’s a comment on the part from a customer who says he bought the part as a replacement TOC (thermal overload cut-out) for a different model and had to modify it to get it to fit but it worked.
Therefore, with all evidence pointing to it being the right part other than the photo it seems a fair bet that it might just be an incorrect photo. Please let us know what happens and if it is the wrong part I will let them know personally to get them to change it.
0 replies I'm sorry to say that is not the case. I have fitted a replacement heater assembly obtained from another parts supplier and it is exactly the same as the one removed. The TOC on the new one has a flat metal plate at the bottom that forms part of the mounting flange! The trip is immediately above that and is not resetable. I can see inside from both sides and can see the contacts are open and the device that holds them closed has collapsed! I have ordered the part you suggested and will see if it fits in the space available, the hole in the metal casing underneath the TOC is smaller than that under the thermostat. If it fits, I will keep one as a spare.
I’m sorry to say that is not the case. I have fitted a replacement heater assembly obtained from another parts supplier and it is exactly the same as the one removed. The TOC on the new one has a flat metal plate at the bottom that forms part of the mounting flange! The trip is immediately above that and is not resetable. I can see inside from both sides and can see the contacts are open and the device that holds them closed has collapsed!
I have ordered the part you suggested and will see if it fits in the space available, the hole in the metal casing underneath the TOC is smaller than that under the thermostat. If it fits, I will keep one as a spare.
0 replies I think your toc is flat because it's tripped. They all have bulbous underside, which depresses in under specific temperature and moves the switch inside. They are essentially exactly the same in every way except calibrated for different temperatures and the stats are designed to reset when cooled, but a one shot thermal fuse is not.
I think your toc is flat because it’s tripped. They all have bulbous underside, which depresses in under specific temperature and moves the switch inside. They are essentially exactly the same in every way except calibrated for different temperatures and the stats are designed to reset when cooled, but a one shot thermal fuse is not.
0 replies Looks identical to the thermostat, even to the relationship of the electrical connections to the mounting holes. It even looks to have the bulbous underside, judging only from the image shown (look at the edge where the black body meets the metal plate), that is a characteristic of the thermostat but not of the cutout - that has a flat underside that sits flush with the top plate of the heater box! Agreed that the description appears to suggest it is the cutout from the 'one time' epithet, so they may have used the wrong photograph - which definitely does not help. I will try ordering one and if it fits, then we're all happy, else it will have to be returned. Thanks for your help. Mike Perry
Looks identical to the thermostat, even to the relationship of the electrical connections to the mounting holes. It even looks to have the bulbous underside, judging only from the image shown (look at the edge where the black body meets the metal plate), that is a characteristic of the thermostat but not of the cutout – that has a flat underside that sits flush with the top plate of the heater box! Agreed that the description appears to suggest it is the cutout from the ‘one time’ epithet, so they may have used the wrong photograph – which definitely does not help. I will try ordering one and if it fits, then we’re all happy, else it will have to be returned.
Thanks for your help.
Mike Perry
3 replies On the top of the heater casing are two thermal devices. The right hand one, when viewed from the back, is the thermostat that controls the heater temperature by sensing the air coming out of the element area and being fed into the drum. The other device, to the left of the black thermostat, is a while ceramic bodied thermal fuse that is non resettable. It is that which commonly fails if there is any slowing of throughput of air (often caused by a build-up of fluff in the pipework after the lint filter). It is that cutout that I am trying to source. I have had a liong discussion with Hoover but they will only supply a complete heater assembly (very wasteful) or the thermostat. They claim not to know where the thermal safety cutout is sources from as they buy-in the heater as a complete sub-assembly and claim to have no record of where the cutout comes from nor who supplies it to the sub-assembly manufacturer. All of which falls foul of European safety laws! I know that Hoover should be keeping records of where all the parts they use are supplied from, even for any sub-assemblies bought-in complete. But they claim not to have that information so I feel they are trying to profiteer by selling only complete heaters at more than £60 according to their spares website (but available elsewhere for £33). All I want is that safety cutout, nothing else. Why should we be forced to discard perfectly good materials for the want of 1 small item? And that is one that is so easily replaced anyway - if you can get the part. (I spent many years working for a major rental company as initially a service engineer and subsequently as a Training Manager, our role included teaching white goods servicing as well as TV, video, audio, CD, satellite and camera servicing and maintenance.)
On the top of the heater casing are two thermal devices. The right hand one, when viewed from the back, is the thermostat that controls the heater temperature by sensing the air coming out of the element area and being fed into the drum. The other device, to the left of the black thermostat, is a while ceramic bodied thermal fuse that is non resettable. It is that which commonly fails if there is any slowing of throughput of air (often caused by a build-up of fluff in the pipework after the lint filter). It is that cutout that I am trying to source. I have had a liong discussion with Hoover but they will only supply a complete heater assembly (very wasteful) or the thermostat. They claim not to know where the thermal safety cutout is sources from as they buy-in the heater as a complete sub-assembly and claim to have no record of where the cutout comes from nor who supplies it to the sub-assembly manufacturer. All of which falls foul of European safety laws! I know that Hoover should be keeping records of where all the parts they use are supplied from, even for any sub-assemblies bought-in complete. But they claim not to have that information so I feel they are trying to profiteer by selling only complete heaters at more than £60 according to their spares website (but available elsewhere for £33). All I want is that safety cutout, nothing else.
Why should we be forced to discard perfectly good materials for the want of 1 small item? And that is one that is so easily replaced anyway – if you can get the part.
(I spent many years working for a major rental company as initially a service engineer and subsequently as a Training Manager, our role included teaching white goods servicing as well as TV, video, audio, CD, satellite and camera servicing and maintenance.)
Likely replying to Mike Perry
Hi Mike. What I’m confused about is that the thermal fuse is listed here for that model. They should by law provide all functional spares for a specific period (it used to be 10 years but it’s probably less these days) but I presume they can get away with supplying it as part of another unit by saying it’s still available. They (and most other manufactures – not just appliances) have been doing it for decades now.
There are many worse examples such as all the manufacturers who no longer supply seals, bearings, drums, drum shafts and only provide a complete sealed outer tub. Also, most manufacturers no longer supply bearings or armatures for motors – only a complete motor. It’s crazy but they all do it. It’s all about the finished product, and not maintaining them, but presumably they might argue it also keeps prices down.
Hi Andy
That looks like the thermostat to me. I have a picture taken of the assembly showing the actual part needed, I can supply that to help if there is some way to send the image to you. I can supply an email address if that helps but don’t want to put it on such a public forum. Instead, if you can see my address as used for this site, you are welcome to contact me direct if that helps?
Seems to me that there is a difference in terminology and hence some confusion. From my researches, the black bodied devices are a thermostat that cycles the heating elements on/off to maintain a fairly level temperature of the air flow. The white ceramic bodied device is a non-resettable cutout that trips if the air gets too hot for a protracted period, shown initially by the ‘Filter care’ warning light, but that also illuminates if there is insufficient airflow to disperse the heat and that is what has happened to ours.
Many thanks for your help
Mike Perry
Likely replying to Mike Perry
Hi Mike, it’s described as a thermal fuse, and even says “one shot” so as far as the description is concerned it is definitely the part you need. It’s also a different part number and price to the others, which are labelled “thermostats” and have temperatures (55 degrees) listed in their description. Therefore regardless of the photo I would assume that is the part and if you order it and it isn’t you can send it back for a full refund.
It seems very strange to me that they would provide all the stats and small parts except a toc. Colours could vary or the photo may even be wrong but as long as it doesn’t say its a thermostat on the part and has similar description to the original it should be the part.
0 replies There are 2 thermostats, a thermal fuse 1 shot cutout and the complete heater with stats listed. If it isn't any of them give them a ring or send them a part query. It's not likely that a part like that is not available.
There are 2 thermostats, a thermal fuse 1 shot cutout and the complete heater with stats listed. If it isn’t any of them give them a ring or send them a part query. It’s not likely that a part like that is not available.
0 replies But they are not the safety cutout that I need! They are the thermostat that is wired in series with the safety cutout! The thermostat works but the cutout is O/C and is not resettable.
But they are not the safety cutout that I need! They are the thermostat that is wired in series with the safety cutout! The thermostat works but the cutout is O/C and is not resettable.
0 replies I can see plenty of TOCs and stats available on Spares4Appliances although one of the parts is the complete element housing which looks like it comes with both tocs Dryer stats and TOCs
I can see plenty of TOCs and stats available on Spares4Appliances although one of the parts is the complete element housing which looks like it comes with both tocs Dryer stats and TOCs
0 replies Some tumble dryers, such as the Hoover HDV6UK, also have a safety cutout in series with the thermal cutout. The thermal cutout is available as a spare from from many suppliers - but none can supply the safety curtout for some odd reason. It is mounted adjacent to the thermal cutout and wored in series, it is mounted in exactly the same way and is as easy to change. I wonder why no one stocks this essential safety item?
Some tumble dryers, such as the Hoover HDV6UK, also have a safety cutout in series with the thermal cutout. The thermal cutout is available as a spare from from many suppliers – but none can supply the safety curtout for some odd reason. It is mounted adjacent to the thermal cutout and wored in series, it is mounted in exactly the same way and is as easy to change. I wonder why no one stocks this essential safety item?
Hi, would be grateful for advice. My White Knight c44a7w tumble dryer stopped heating. I have stripped the machine, tested the heating element ( by disconnecting all wires) – closed circuit. Tested both the thermostat and the safety sensor (with red button on it) – both are closed. To be absolutely sure I have short-circuitted both sensors but again the heater is not coming on. Visual inspection found no loose wires, broken or burnt parts , the machine is less than 18 months old.
The only suspicion i am left with is there is a control board with a couple of resistors, capacitor etc closer to the front panel – could it be that this board is not ‘sending’ power to the heater? I have even tested low/high button disconnecting one of the heaters – all seems to work.
Generally speaking, if the heater, stat and TOC are tested to be ok, where else should I look? Thank you
Likely replying to Alan
Hello Alan. White night tumble dryers always used to have a resettable stat with a big red button and it. Accessible from the back of the machine usually. The button reset when pressed. Does yours have this?
Andy, thanks for your response. The red button was the first thing i checked and it was not triggered. I have also tested the TOC and the stat – both are closed. Have short circuited them for a bit of time to be absolutely sure. Then tested the heater elements – both appear to be in order showing 44 ohm. So the only two options left are the pcb and the timer. But the motor is working fine so that makes me think the relay is ok as it is a single contact simple relay, so even the pcb could be ruled out. Any experience of timer contact failing the heater?
Likely replying to Alan
Hello Alan. Yes sorry about that but I needed to just double check the obvious which can occasionally get missed :-)
The switch on the timer can definitely fail. It is quite rare but I’ve definitely had that fault. The motor and the heating element will be supplied by separate switches. Essentially the dryer is a simple appliance.
With condenser dryers there is an extra possibility of a float switch or the switch that senses when the condensed water chamber is full that can cut the heat. But yours looks like a very basic dryer.
To test for this fault I would turn the dryer timer halfway round (don’t forget the last 10 minutes of the cycle cuts the heater out) then unplug the dryer and test with the continuity meter down the live on the plug to the heating element to see if it’s getting any power. The chances are it isn’t in your case because you appear to have eliminated the stats and the elements. If there is continuity there then you test from the element through all the stat’s and down to neutral. A fault on the neutral side can result in power running through all of the element and all of the stats but just not getting back down to neutral so everything is live but nothing works. Don’t work on the machine live.
If you engage the timer so that it’s definitely on a heating section and there is no continuity between the live on the plug and the heating element then you ideally need to trace the live wire back from the heating element to the timer or PCB. Make sure there are no connection faults or breaks in the wire. If there is proper continuity and the live heater wire all the way back to the PCB or timer then the only possible explanation for no power get into the element is that non-is been sent.