Spin Drying Performance

Spin drying performance is rated on the familiar A to G scale, where A represents the most effective extraction of water from laundry. On the surface this looks useful, but the rating has a significant limitation: it tells you that one machine extracts more water than another, but not by how much. Without knowing the actual residual moisture content, the difference between a B and a C rating may be trivial or it may be meaningful – the label alone does not tell you.

To achieve an A spin efficiency rating, most washing machines need to spin at 1600rpm or above. This creates a problem for budget machines. High spin speeds place significant mechanical demands on a washing machine – the suspension system, out-of-balance detection, motor quality, drum bearings, and cabinet rigidity all need to be engineered to cope with those forces consistently over time. A budget machine that achieves an A spin rating by spinning at 1600rpm may do so at the cost of longevity, noise, and stability.

A-rated spin does not always mean a better machine

A budget washing machine with an A spin efficiency rating may be noisier, less stable, and shorter-lived than a higher-quality machine rated B. Build quality determines how well a machine handles high spin speeds over time – the label does not measure this at all.

In practice, the real-world difference in drying times between adjacent spin speeds is often small. For more detail on this, see our guides on whether washing machine spin speeds are a con and spin speed efficiency and tumble drying costs.

Water Consumption

Unlike the spin and wash performance ratings, the water consumption figure shown on the label is a direct, concrete number – the volume of water used during the rated wash cycle, expressed in litres. This makes it one of the more straightforward comparisons available, provided you compare like with like: an 8kg machine washing a full load will naturally use more water than a 6kg machine, but may still be more efficient per kilogram of laundry.

The limitation here is what the figure does not capture. A lower water consumption number tells you the machine uses less water – it says nothing about whether that reduction affects how well laundry is rinsed. Rinse performance is not independently assessed as part of the energy label.

If water efficiency is a priority – for environmental or cost reasons – the consumption figure is the most directly useful number on the label. Just be aware that a lower figure does not automatically make a machine a better wash.

Noise Levels

Since the 2021 energy label reform, noise levels are now mandatory on washing machine labels. The label shows separate decibel ratings for the wash cycle and the spin cycle, which is genuinely useful information – spin noise in particular varies considerably between machines and matters significantly to households where the machine is installed in a living area or open-plan space.

The limitation of the decibel figures is one of context. Most people cannot intuitively judge the real-world difference between, say, 73dB and 76dB without a reference point. You can determine that the lower figure is quieter – but not whether the difference would be noticeable to you in everyday use, or whether either figure would be acceptable in your home.

What the Decibel Figure Tells You
Which machine is quieter in relative terms. A lower number is always better, and larger differences – 5dB or more – are generally perceptible in normal use.

What It Does Not Tell You
How the machine will sound in your home. Installation environment, flooring, cabinetry, and load balance all affect perceived noise significantly, and these cannot be tested in a laboratory.

Noise figures are also measured under standardised laboratory conditions. Real-world noise levels vary depending on how the machine is installed, what type of flooring it sits on, whether it is housed in a fitted unit, and how well balanced the load is. A machine that tests quietly in a lab can become noticeably louder if installed on a suspended timber floor or in a poorly damped cabinet.

As a general rule, a well-built machine with quality suspension, a rigid cabinet, and properly engineered drum bearings will be quieter in real use than a cheaper machine with a similar decibel rating achieved under test conditions. Build quality is the strongest predictor of long-term noise performance – and the energy label cannot measure build quality.

Energy Label Series: All Parts

Part 1: Energy Efficiency Ratings
What the A to G energy efficiency rating measures and how to interpret it when comparing machines.


Part 2: Energy Consumption (kWh per Cycle)
How to read the energy consumption figure and what it means for your actual running costs.


Part 3: Wash Performance Ratings
How washing performance is rated, what the test involves, and the limitations of the result.


Are Eco Labels Misleading?
Why energy labels do not tell the full story about running costs, reliability, or environmental impact.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Does the Washing Performance Rating Measure?

The washing performance rating appears on the energy label as a letter grade on a scale from A to G, where A represents the highest rated performance. The intention was straightforward: to give consumers a way to compare how effectively different machines clean laundry, in the same way the energy efficiency rating compares running costs.

In practice, the washing performance rating has a fundamental problem that makes it almost useless for comparison purposes – virtually every machine achieves the same rating, regardless of its actual washing quality.

Why the Rating Has Become Meaningless

Once manufacturers understood that achieving a top wash performance rating was commercially important, they designed their programmes to meet the test criteria. The result is that the overwhelming majority of washing machines – from premium models to the cheapest budget machines – now achieve the same top grade on the wash performance scale. A rating that was supposed to differentiate quality has instead become a marketing minimum that almost everyone meets.

The 2021 energy label reform reset the efficiency scale but did not fundamentally change the approach to wash performance testing. The structural problem – that the test is too narrow to meaningfully separate machines – remains.

Do not use the wash performance rating to compare machines

Because virtually all machines achieve the same grade, the rating cannot be used to distinguish between them. A budget machine with a poor real-world reputation and a premium machine with an excellent one will typically carry identical wash performance ratings.

The Single Cycle Problem

The wash performance rating is not based on testing across a range of programmes. It is assessed using a single wash cycle – a 60-degree cotton wash – and the grade awarded applies to that one programme only. The rest of the machine’s wash cycles are not assessed as part of the rating.

This creates a significant gap between what the rating appears to say and what it actually means. Most consumers will reasonably assume that an A-rated machine has been assessed and found to wash well across its programmes. That is not the case. A machine could theoretically perform well on the rated 60-degree cycle and poorly on every other programme it offers, and the label would not reflect this at all.

What the Rating Covers
A single 60-degree cotton wash programme, tested under standardised laboratory conditions. The grade reflects performance on this cycle only.

What the Rating Does Not Cover
Every other programme the machine offers – quick washes, lower temperatures, delicate cycles, and the cycles most households use on a daily basis.

Why 60 Degrees Is a Poor Choice of Test Cycle

The 60-degree cotton wash was chosen as the basis for the washing performance test, but it is among the least commonly used programmes in most households. The majority of everyday washing is done at 30 or 40 degrees, on cycles most people use far more frequently than a hot cotton wash.

Basing the entire wash performance rating on a cycle that most people rarely run means the grade has very little bearing on the performance that matters most to most users.

There is a further complication: independent testing has found that a significant number of machines do not actually reach their advertised temperature on the 60-degree cycle. A machine that runs its 60-degree programme at only 43 to 50 degrees will use less energy during the test – which may help its energy efficiency rating – but is not delivering what the user expects. For more detail on this, see our guide on washing machines not delivering the right temperature.

Longer Cycles: A Better Rating, Not Better Washing

Some machines achieve a stronger wash performance rating by extending the duration of the rated programme – sometimes to two or three hours. A longer cycle at the same temperature can improve wash results on the test, but in practice it leads many users to avoid the programme entirely in favour of quicker options. This can result in lower wash temperatures, more residue left on laundry, and detergent build-up inside the machine over time.

Two machines can achieve an identical wash performance rating, but one may complete its rated cycle in 90 minutes while the other takes over two and a half hours. The label shows the same grade for both.

What Should You Use Instead?

Given the limitations of the wash performance rating, independent reviews and long-term reliability data from owners are more useful guides to real-world washing quality. Look for reviews that assess performance across a range of cycles and temperatures, not just the headline programme.

For broader context on what energy labels can and cannot tell you, see our companion article on how designing for eco labels can be misleading.

Energy Label Series: All Parts

Part 1: Energy Efficiency Ratings
What the A to G energy efficiency rating measures and how to interpret it when comparing machines.


Part 2: Energy Consumption (kWh per Cycle)
How to read the energy consumption figure and what it means for your actual running costs.


Part 4: Spin, Water Use and Noise
The remaining label data points – spin drying performance, water consumption, and noise ratings – explained.


Are Eco Labels Misleading?
Why energy labels do not tell the full story about running costs, reliability, or environmental impact.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Does the Energy Consumption Figure Show?

The energy consumption section of the washing machine label shows the number of kilowatt hours (kWh) the machine uses during a single wash cycle. Like the other ratings on the label, this is based on the 60-degree cotton programme – a cycle most households use infrequently. The figure gives you a way to compare the relative energy use of different machines, but it is not a direct measure of what your electricity bill will actually look like.

Because most everyday washing is done at 30 or 40 degrees, the actual energy your machine uses per cycle will typically be lower than the figure shown. Heating water accounts for the majority of a washing machine’s electricity consumption, so lower-temperature washes use significantly less energy than the rated 60-degree cycle.

Why Some Figures May Not Be Reliable

The energy consumption figure is only as accurate as the test conditions that produced it. Independent testing has found that a significant number of washing machines do not actually heat water to anywhere near 60 degrees on their 60-degree cycle – in some cases reaching only 43 to 50 degrees. A machine that runs its rated cycle at a lower temperature will use less electricity during the test, producing a better label figure – but it is not delivering what the user would expect.

This means the energy consumption figure for some machines may be artificially low, and the comparison between machines less reliable than it appears. For more detail on this issue, see our guide on washing machines not delivering the right temperature.

Understanding kWh: A Plain English Explanation

Electricity is charged in kilowatt hours, abbreviated to kWh. One kWh – sometimes called one unit of electricity – is the amount of electricity consumed by a 1,000-watt appliance running for one hour.

The same amount of electricity is used whether you run a 1,000-watt appliance for one hour, a 2,000-watt appliance for half an hour, or a 500-watt appliance for two hours. It is the total consumption over time that counts, not the power rating alone.

How to Calculate the Cost Per Wash

To convert the kWh figure on the label into a cost, multiply it by your electricity unit rate. You can find your unit rate on your electricity bill or in your energy account online.

UK electricity prices vary considerably depending on your tariff and supplier. As a rough guide, the Ofgem price cap unit rate has been approximately 24p per kWh in recent periods, though your actual rate may be higher or lower – always check your own bill for an accurate figure.

These figures apply to the rated 60-degree cycle only. Washing at 40 degrees will cost noticeably less; washing at 30 degrees less still. The label does not provide separate consumption figures for lower-temperature cycles.

Does a Lower Energy Figure Make a Better Buy?

Not necessarily. The energy consumption figure is one component of the total cost of running a washing machine over its lifetime – and often not the most significant one. Repair costs and the lifespan of the machine matter far more to the overall picture.

A machine that costs £10 more per year to run than a cheaper-to-run alternative will cost £100 more over ten years in electricity. But if the cheaper-to-run machine requires two expensive repairs in that period, or needs replacing after six years, the energy saving becomes irrelevant. Reliability and build quality have a much larger impact on lifetime running costs than the energy label figure alone.

The biggest saving is often in the energy tariff itself

Switching to a cheaper electricity tariff or changing how you use your machine – washing at lower temperatures, running full loads, using off-peak times – can save more money than choosing a machine based on a marginal difference in its energy consumption figure. See our guide on reducing the energy costs of running white goods.

Energy Label Series: All Parts

Part 1: Energy Efficiency Ratings
What the A to G energy efficiency rating measures and how to interpret it when comparing machines.


Part 3: Wash Performance Ratings
How washing performance is rated, what the test involves, and why the figure is largely meaningless for comparison.


Part 4: Spin, Water Use and Noise
The remaining label data points – spin drying performance, water consumption, and noise ratings – explained.


Are Eco Labels Misleading?
Why energy labels do not tell the full story about running costs, reliability, or environmental impact.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Does the Energy Efficiency Rating Tell You?

The energy efficiency rating is the most prominent figure on the washing machine energy label, presented as a letter grade from A to G. A is the most efficient, G the least. The rating gives a way to compare the relative energy use of different machines – but it has a significant limitation that is easy to overlook.

The scale tells you that one machine is more efficient than another, but not by how much. The gap between an A-rated and a B-rated machine might represent a meaningful saving over a year, or it might be negligible. Without knowing the actual difference in energy consumption – shown separately as a kWh figure – the letter grade alone is too vague to act on.

How the Rating Scale Changed in 2021

The original A to G scale ran into problems almost immediately after it was introduced. Manufacturers quickly optimised their machines to achieve top ratings, and within a few years virtually every washing machine on the market held an A rating. To restore some differentiation, additional categories were introduced – A+, A++, and eventually A+++ – creating a confusing system that had lost its original purpose.

In March 2021, the energy label was reformed across the UK and EU. The A+ to A+++ categories were abolished and the scale returned to a straightforward A to G. Critically, the bar was reset: most machines on sale today sit in the C, D, or E range. The A and B bands are left empty for now, reserved for future products that go significantly further in efficiency.

This makes the current scale more transparent and easier to read than what preceded it – but the fundamental limitation remains. The rating still compares energy use on a single test cycle, under conditions that do not reflect everyday use for most households.

The Missing Measure: Why Rinsing Is Not Rated

The energy label assesses energy efficiency, spin efficiency, and wash efficiency. It does not assess how well a machine rinses. This is a significant omission – and one that has real consequences for a large number of washing machine owners.

Independent testing has consistently found that many modern washing machines perform poorly when it comes to rinsing laundry. Clothes come out with detergent residue remaining, which can cause skin irritation in people with sensitivities and leaves laundry feeling stiff or uncomfortable. For a detailed look at this issue and its causes, see our guide on why modern washing machines rinse poorly.

Why Do Modern Machines Rinse Poorly?

There are two likely explanations, and both relate directly to the priorities built into the energy labelling system.

The first is water use. Effective rinsing requires a generous volume of water to flush detergent from fabric thoroughly. The ongoing drive to reduce water consumption – which is measured and rated on the energy label – works directly against this. Modern detergents have been developed to wash effectively at lower temperatures and with less water, but no equivalent breakthrough has made thorough rinsing possible with significantly reduced water volumes.

The second is that the label creates no incentive to rinse well. Because rinse performance is not tested or rated, manufacturers face no competitive pressure to improve it. As long as laundry looks clean and stains are removed, the wash efficiency test is passed – regardless of how much detergent residue remains in the fabric after rinsing.

Important for people with skin sensitivities

If you or someone in your household has a skin sensitivity or allergy to laundry detergent, poor rinsing is a practical concern rather than a theoretical one. Consider using a lower detergent dose, selecting an additional rinse cycle, or checking independent test results for rinsing performance before buying. Note that full Which? test data on rinsing requires a subscription to access.

Is Rinsing Performance Tested Independently?

Which? carries out independent washing machine tests that include an assessment of rinsing performance. Their findings have consistently shown that most modern machines rate poorly or very poorly for rinsing – across brands and price points. Which? is an independent consumer organisation that works solely in the interests of its subscribers and does not take advertising revenue from the brands it tests. Their subscription-only test results are the most thorough independent source available for rinsing performance data.

The absence of a rinsing measure from the official energy label means this information does not reach most buyers at the point of purchase. A machine could hold a top energy efficiency rating while rinsing poorly, and the label would give no indication of this.

What About White Streaks and Detergent Residue on Laundry?

Not all detergent residue on laundry is caused by poor machine rinsing. There are several common causes – including using too much detergent, washing at too low a temperature for the detergent type, or a build-up of limescale or product residue inside the machine. If laundry is coming out with white streaks or powder deposits, see our guide on white streaks on laundry after washing for a full list of causes and solutions.

Energy Label Series: All Parts

Part 2: Energy Consumption (kWh per Cycle)
How to read the energy consumption figure and calculate the cost per wash from your electricity unit rate.


Part 3: Wash Performance Ratings
How washing performance is rated on the label, why virtually every machine achieves the same grade, and what to use instead.


Part 4: Spin, Water Use and Noise
The remaining label data points – spin drying efficiency, water consumption, and noise ratings – explained.


Are Eco Labels Misleading?
Why energy labels do not tell the full story about running costs, reliability, or environmental impact.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the Quoted Depth Include the Hoses and Cables?

Manufacturer depth specifications cannot always be relied upon to include the space that inlet and drain hoses take up at the rear. Whether they do depends on the design of the machine – specifically, whether the lid overhangs the back of the casing.

If the lid extends further back than the rear casing, the hoses can often sit in the gap between the casing and the back edge of the lid, meaning they do not add to the overall depth required. In this case, the quoted depth measurement – which typically reflects the depth of the lid – will usually be accurate for fitting purposes.

If the lid does not overhang at the back, the hoses will project behind the machine and add to the space needed. In this situation, the quoted depth may understate the actual space required.

Machine With Overhanging Lid
Hoses typically tuck under the lid overhang. The quoted depth spec is usually reliable for fitting purposes.

Machine Without Overhanging Lid
Hoses project behind the rear casing and add to the depth needed. The quoted measurement may not account for this.

The Overhanging Lid: What to Look For

Many modern washing machines are designed with a lid that extends further back than the main casing. The images below show examples of this on a Miele washing machine and a John Lewis washer dryer – both with lids that overhang the rear, allowing the hoses to sit within the footprint of the lid rather than projecting beyond it.

John Lewis washer dryer rear view – the lid extends beyond the casing, giving the hoses room to sit within the machine’s overall depth.

Miele washing machine rear view – similarly, the overhanging lid allows the inlet and drain hoses to route without adding to the machine’s depth footprint.

Watch Out for the Front: Doors, Drawers, and Protrusions

For most installations, not having quite enough depth simply means the machine sits slightly proud of the worktop edge. This is usually acceptable. The more practical problem with depth comes from what is at the front of the machine.

Many modern washing machines have bulkier front designs than older models, with the front casing bowing outwards. Door handles, control panels, knobs, and buttons can all project forward significantly. If a kitchen door or drawer opens across the path of the washing machine, these protrusions can cause it to catch – even if the machine appears to fit correctly in terms of the quoted depth measurement.

Front protrusions on modern washing machines – the door and control panel can stick out significantly and catch on adjacent doors or drawers.

These front protrusions are not typically included in published depth measurements. If a kitchen door, drawer, or cupboard opens across the front of where the machine will sit, measure from the furthest projecting point at the front to the furthest projecting point at the back to get the true depth clearance needed.

Standard Kitchen Fitting Dimensions and Larger Drums

The standard space allocated for a washing machine in a fitted kitchen is 600mm (60cm). This worked well when washing machine drums were smaller and machines were shallower. The introduction of larger capacity drums – some machines now offer 10kg or 11kg loads – has pushed machine depths outward, with many modern models now reaching the full 600mm.

The extra depth needed for a larger drum typically comes from extending the drum from front to back, meaning the cabinet gets deeper rather than wider or taller. If you are working with a tight depth space, a machine with a smaller drum capacity may be shallower – though some manufacturers use the same cabinet depth across a range to reduce production costs, so this is worth checking on the specific model.

For further guidance on washing machine sizing, see our guides on washing machine size problems and issues, washing machine sizes compared, and how much space a washing machine needs round the sides.

If the fit is critical

Do not rely solely on published specifications. Physically inspect and measure the machine in a showroom, or get written confirmation from the retailer that the depth measurement accounts for hoses and rear fittings. Once delivered, a machine that does not fit is expensive and inconvenient to return.

Related Guides

Are All Washing Machines the Same Size?
Why washing machine sizes are not as standardised as they seem, and what to check before buying for a fitted space.


How Much Space Does a Washing Machine Need Round the Sides?
Ventilation, clearance, and access requirements when fitting a washing machine into a tight space.


Reducing the Height to Fit Under a Worktop
How to adjust the feet on a washing machine to clear a fitted worktop without affecting stability.


Washing Machine Drum Sizes Explained
What drum capacity actually means in practice and how to choose the right size for your household.

Frequently Asked Questions

A Brief History of Washing Machine Spin Speeds

When front-loading washing machines became common in the UK during the mid-1970s, most spun at around 700rpm or less. In the late 1970s, manufacturers began using spin speed as a key selling point, and the race upward began. By the early 1980s, 1100rpm machines were available. By the 2000s, 1600rpm had become a standard premium offering, and some machines now advertise 1800rpm or higher.

The introduction of intermediate speeds – 900, 1000, 1200rpm – followed a pattern that had less to do with engineering and more to do with pricing. There is no fabric type that specifically requires 1000rpm. But a 1000rpm machine can be priced between an 800 and an 1100 model, creating a convenient new price point with a perceived improvement in specification. This remains the primary commercial purpose of many intermediate spin speeds.

Are You Paying Extra for the Same Machine?

One of the less-discussed realities of washing machine manufacturing is that many machines across a range share exactly the same motor and speed control electronics. Unlike a car, where a larger engine is a physically different and more expensive component, a faster-spinning washing machine commonly uses the same motor as the slower model in the same range – just running at a higher speed.

In older machines, a common practice was to use the same control board throughout a range, with a physical link cut on the board to limit the maximum spin speed. A machine sold as a 1200rpm model had one link cut; the same board sold in a 1400rpm machine had a different link cut. The cost difference to manufacture was minimal. The price difference to the consumer could be £100 or more.

There are also machines that only reach their advertised top spin speed for a very short time – in some cases as little as 30 seconds – or that only achieve maximum speed if the load happens to be perfectly balanced. A machine sold as a 1600rpm washer may spend the vast majority of every spin at a much lower speed.

Spin Speed Test: Does Faster Actually Make a Difference?

To cut through the claims, Whitegoods Help carried out a practical test using three identical towels, spun at 800rpm, 1100rpm, and 1400rpm, then assessed both by hand and by monitoring drying times on a washing line.

How the Test Was Done

1. Three identical towels were sourced. Each was washed with a full load of mixed towels on a rinse and spin programme at a manually set final spin speed.
2. The first towel was spun at 800rpm, then removed and set aside.
3. The second towel was spun at 1100rpm, then removed and set aside.
4. The third towel was spun at 1400rpm, then removed.
5. All three were assessed immediately by hand, then hung on a washing line on a sunny, calm day and monitored until dry.

Results: Hand Assessment

Results: Drying on the Line

What the Test Shows – and What It Means for Buyers

The test found a real but modest difference between spin speeds. The gap between 800rpm and 1400rpm was perceptible – the faster-spun towel dried noticeably quicker on the line. But the gap between 1100rpm and 1400rpm was much smaller, and in practice amounts to a matter of minutes of drying time.

For households that routinely dry clothes outside, the faster spin speed offers limited practical benefit – laundry at any reasonable spin speed will dry fully given enough time. For households using a tumble dryer, a higher spin speed does reduce the energy cost of drying, and the saving is worth factoring in. Our companion article on spin speed efficiency and tumble drying costs covers this in more detail.

The trade-offs above 1400rpm

Higher spin speeds mean more noise, more vibration, and more mechanical stress on bearings, suspension, and the cabinet. A budget machine spinning at 1600rpm is placing significant demands on components that may not be engineered to cope with them long-term. For most households, the practical benefit above 1400rpm is small relative to the noise, wear, and cost involved.

What Is the Optimum Spin Speed?

Based on engineering experience and the evidence from spin efficiency data, the optimum spin speed for most households sits between 1200 and 1400rpm. Above this, the returns diminish – more water is technically extracted, but the practical difference in drying time is small, and the cost in noise, vibration, and mechanical wear increases.

A well-built machine spinning at 1200 or 1400rpm will typically be quieter, more reliable, and longer-lived than a cheaper machine rated at 1600rpm. The headline rpm figure is not a reliable guide to overall quality.

Related Guides

Spin Speed Efficiency and Tumble Drying Costs
Manufacturer data on residual moisture at different spin speeds, and what it means for tumble drying energy costs.


Spin Drying Performance on the Energy Label
What the spin efficiency rating on the energy label actually measures – and the limitations of using it to compare machines.


Washing Machine Noisy on Spin?
Common causes of spin noise and what they indicate about the condition of the machine.


Choosing the Best Washing Machine
What to look for beyond the headline spec – reliability, repairability, and the factors that matter most over the long term.

Frequently Asked Questions