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You are here: Home / Washing Machines / F01 error code on Hotpoint washing machine

Updated October 26, 2020 : First Published December 4, 2009

F01 error code on Hotpoint washing machine

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F01 error code on most Hotpoint washing machines means “motor triac short”. The advice in the technical manual is to, “check motor and module connections”. This is not the type of error code that is helpful to most people. If you have this error you should book an appliance engineer to look at it.

The triac is an electronic component in the control module (PCB) or other printed circuit board. The suggested action of also checking connections shows that it isn’t necessarily a triac short. Clearly there’s an issue with it, but it could have shorted out or have a connection fault somewhere.

This error is likely to need an appliance engineer and maybe a replacement pcb. A a determined DIYer may decide to check all connections as suggested. Check the motor for continuity and carefully check the connections on the motor connector and where those wires connect to the main PCB. Electrical components shorting out (if that is what’s happened) could have external causes such as low insulation on another component, which also needs diagnosing.

A company called QER may be able to repair the pcb or at least test it if you are prepared to have a go at fixing it yourself. They used to have their own website but the last I heard they have moved on to eBay.

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Filed Under: Washing Machines Tagged With: Error codes washing machines - 9 Comments

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Comments: (Oldest first)

  1. derek says

    November 21, 2011 at 9:56 pm

    hotpoint WMF740 16 minutes F-05 error code
    remove pump clean out put back together
    now showing error code F-01
    ANY IDEAS?

  2. Washerhelp says

    November 24, 2011 at 4:40 pm

    derek: I can only assume some motor or pcb connection may have been disturbed or even some water could have got onto something and shorted out a component.

  3. Mike says

    March 12, 2014 at 11:58 am

    Hotpoint Aquarius 7Kg washing machine – suddenly F-01 error code this morning. Couldn’t cancel or turn off so switched off at fuse board. Back to machine, set it washing and away it went. It completed cycle but because of my wife’s skin condition and the fact that the rinsing is so poor we have to rinse everything twice I set it to do a rinse cycle. Same error code so off at isolator again, no joy. Did this a couple of times and it’s 30 mins into it’s 45 minute rinse cycle at the moment and going strong!! Any ideas anyone other than “Short circuit motor triac”?

  4. Whitegoodshelp (Andy Trigg) says

    March 12, 2014 at 12:10 pm

    Sorry Mike, all my thoughts on the F01 error are in the article. It’s possible there is a connection problem with it being intermittent but all you can do is look for something obvious in the motor and module connectors. If you can’t see anything you need an engineer.

  5. michael says

    January 11, 2017 at 10:13 am

    While the error code says S/C Triac in motor – Electronically it is impossible to comeback from that without replacing the Triac!!

    I would suggest this fault is computed from power being applied to the motor and there being no response from the feedback device on the motor to say it is turning. (trust me when I say when a Triac goes S/C there is a bang :) ) and it doesn’t start working again..!!!!

    Dry joint on PCB module, Poor connection on a multiconnector at the module PCB, check motor brushes if they have them. Check any normally closed thermal protectors/cutouts. Check connectors on any ancillary boards (front panel etc)

    A fault that starts out as coming and going is often something listed above, since it implies it is not permanent in nature.

    A triac is an electrically operated solid state switch that can turn on high current and a/c voltage with a low trigger voltage from a digital circuit, failure usually leads to the devices physical destruction and occurs when it connects a load that exceeds its design tolerance. I have seen quite a few white goods appliance PCB with the most horrendous power supply circuits, when you check the actual specifications of some components they come down to WILL DEFINATELY FAIL in less than 6yrs and often within 3yrs.

    An A/C capacitor a resistor and a smoothing capacitor for a 12V AND 5V supply (Are they kidding) A/C cap always fails and to cap it off they use a type that gives no outward sign of malfunction hahaha.

    I started out as a white goods engineer many years ago, mechanical timers then and mechanical thermostats in fridges. Now I am a senior Engineer for a company that runs very large cnc and laser equipment and I maintain and repair them, when my own whites goods fail from time to time I fix them. In doing so I see immediately why its happened, how and omg they design failures into them after certain time frames!!!

    Be methodical, write everything down, check each component and its soldering on the mainboard, check all connections and remember fault comes and goes – its going to be something pretty straight forward to the right eye!!

  6. Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says

    January 11, 2017 at 11:47 am

    Thanks for that Michael. I agree that the quality of many PCBs in white goods is pathetic. I remember the good old days when the washing machines were controlled by mechanical timers with cogs and small motors. They were generally very reliable. The PCB (or module as we called them) where small, and concerned only with controlling the motors. They were very reliable too.

    When they got rid of the timer they said they were moving to PCB controls because they were more reliable. That was only true in theory. No moving parts should make them hardly ever fail. But they just made them poorly and they are now less reliable than the old timers.

    As I said in my article though I’m puzzled as to why the manual says check connections when they claim the fault code is caused by the triac shorting. If it’s shorted it should blow.

  7. Jenny says

    November 7, 2018 at 3:51 pm

    Hi there!

    This morning an F-01 error code appeared on our Hotpoint WMF740 Aquarius + at some point during a 40 degree wash cycle…at this point the door was openable and I simply (as I thought/hoped at the time!), re-set the machine to run another cycle as the washing inside was clearly very wet and I had no idea how far the machine had got through the cycle.

    The same error code has now appeared, again I am not aware at what point this was triggered as the whole thing seemed to be running fine although, the washing in the machine is noticeably wetter than it was the first time round so, presumably, the problem arose earlier in the cycle.

    I note the discussion on triacs above, but was wondering, rather hopefully perhaps, whether there is anything that I could do to try to get through this function failure please as I have masses of washing to do.

    We inherited the machine with the house, so I am unsure of its age although I don’t think it had been used a great deal….reluctant to call an engineer at this point and very reluctant to consider a replacement as, aside from the obvious cost issue, the sink unit would also have to be removed to install a new machine into the space available.

    Any suggestions, gratefully received.

    Many thanks

    Jenny

  8. Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says

    November 8, 2018 at 11:23 am

    Hello Jenny. The only thing it could be is the triac blown, or a connection fault on the motor or pcb. I’ve amended my article slightly to give a little more information but it’s not a fault for anyone not experienced in electrical repairs.

  9. PETER MADSEN says

    July 6, 2020 at 10:49 pm

    Hi,
    I have the Hotpoint Aquarius WDD756 washer dryer. It came up with the code F01 and having looked on the various sites, checked the wiring and connections at the motor,heater,pump and connections to the main board, all appeared OK. After removing the board from the machine I opened up the carrier unit to inspect the actual board. I discovered that the was something that had burnt out and was strewn across the end of the board and had totally disintegrated. I have no idea what it was / is as it has completely vaporized and all that was left was a small piece of black burnt residue which just crumbled when I picked it off the board ? I can see where I think it came from and am assuming it’s a capacitor as there are + and – connections on the board where I think it came from – the burny trace led from it to the edge of the board. It has printed on the board where it was “C95” which again I have assumed is for capacitor 95 ??? But that’s it ! I have no idea what the component was and no idea what to replace it with,or why it would blow ?

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