Washing Machines

This is a list of every article I've written filed under washing machines, including all its sub categories. To jump to specific washing machine sub categories use the "washing machines" link in the main navigation.

NOTE: More washing machine articles are filed under other categories and sub categories if they focus on buying or repairing them for example.

Updated August 9, 2018 First Published August 9, 2018

Appliance stuck behind a tiled floor

In my previous article I warned about potential problems if an appliance is pushed in behind flooring and underneath a worktop. It happens surprisingly often. Read the full article here – fitting floor tiles in front of appliances. If you already have an appliance that is stuck, and you cannot get it out over the flooring in front of it, then this is the article for you.

Both of these articles were inspired after I had to cut away a 3 inch strip of cushion floor, and drill and chisel out two small channels from the tiles beneath in order to pull out my daughter’s dishwasher for a repair (See “drastic action” paragraph below).

How to get an appliance out over the tiles

If the appliance is freestanding then pull it forward until the front feet hit the tiles. Most appliances now have adjustable feet, so the idea is to screw them in as much as possible to reduce the height of the appliance. You will need to lift up the front of the appliance as much as possible to take the weight off the feet. Then screw in the front feet as much as possible. There may be a locking nut that you need to undo and wind down first.

Hopefully you can now create a bit more headroom to lift the appliance over the tiles. This will let you pull the appliance forward until the back feet hit the tiles. If you are lucky you might be able to get the appliance out now. But sometimes you might not be able to get the back feet over the tiles either and you can’t lift the appliance up at the back because of the worktop.

With a freestanding appliance it’s impossible to reach the back feet. If you pull on the front of the appliance to try and lift the back feet up and slide it forward you might be able to get it out. Placing a towel or something under the front feet might assist in sliding.

You might have to remove the front feet

If you cannot lift the back feet over the flooring you can try to remove the front feet to gain a little more tilt. This will give a few extra vital millimetres. Place a towel underneath the front of the appliance to prevent it scratching the flooring and to ease sliding. Then try to pull forward and tilt the front of the appliance to lift the back up.

If despite trying all this the appliance will not come out you have two options. You could try to remove the worktop. But in most cases this is not an option as they are often well integrated and sealed in place. It might be an option though. If not you will have to resort to more drastic measures, which is what I had to do to get my daughter’s dishwasher out and is described in the last paragraph.

If the appliance is built in

Built-in appliances might have an adjustable device attached to the top, which is wound upwards to jam against the underside of the worktop. You will need to loosen or remove any such device before trying to pull out a built in appliance.

It might then be possible to remove the appliance easily. But you may still need to screw the front feet in to lower the height of the appliance. This may allow you the room to lift it over the tiles. Then you can pull it forward. However, the back feet may now hit and get stuck under the tiles. If so you need to screw the back feet in as well.

If the appliance is built in it is usually possible to adjust the back feet from the front using a screwdriver. The photo shows a side view of a built in appliance (with the front on the right). There is a rod that goes all the way back and adjusts the back feet up or down. The screws to adjust the rear feet should be easily accessible from behind the kick strip at the front of the appliance.

Drastic action

I recently had to repair my daughter’s dishwasher. Floor tiles had been fitted right up to it – but not behind. Lino had also been fitted on top of the old tiles. It was underneath a worktop that had been fitted too low so the dishwasher would lift up only about 5 millimetres. That just wasn’t high enough to get it over the tiles in front of it. Taking off the worktop was not an option because it had a sink fitted to it. The front feet were wound in as far as possible but the dishwasher was completely stuck in there.

The only way I could get the dishwasher out was to cut off a strip of the floor covering. I then had to mark out squares in front of the two front feet. I spent 20 minutes then drilling small holes and chiselling two channels to allow the feet to come forward. Eventually, after destroying the tiles and flooring the feet would come out far enough to allow the dishwasher to lift over the tiles. As you can see from the photo this is not something you want to happen. The strip of floor covering was placed back in place which covers up the 2 channels but obviously you can see that there is a patch of flooring in front of the dishwasher. There was really no other option.

Fitting floor tiles in front of appliances

You need to be mindful when fitting floor tiles in front of appliances. The same applies for laminate floor, or any flooring that raises the height of the floor in front of the appliance. Many people try to save money and effort by not fitting their flooring behind appliances. But I’ve seen a lot of dishwashers, tumble dryers and washing machines that were trapped under a worktop.

People are totally unaware of the problem until the appliance needs to come out to be repaired, or replaced. If you are installing an appliance under a worktop, or having a new flooring fitted in front of an appliance, make sure you understand this potential problem first.

If you tile up to an appliance you could have big problems in the future

When you push an appliance underneath a kitchen worktop it needs to stay on the same level as the floor in front of it. If the floor tiles or flooring has not been fitted all the way underneath where the appliance will stand then there could be a problem. When you push the appliance into place, it drops down behind the tiles. To come out again it needs to be lifted over these tiles. However, the worktop above often prevents the appliance from lifting up. It’s now stuck and will not come out.

You need more room to lift an appliance over the flooring than you might think because you can only lift it from the front. So the appliance has to be lifted and tilted back. If an appliance has dropped 10 mm behind the floor, it may need tilting back an inch or more to be able to pull it over and out.

Even cushion floor or lino can be a problem

Even if you are only fitting cushion floor or a lino-type floor covering, if you don’t fit it all the way back you can have problems. You still need to lift the appliance up and over the flooring to get it out. That’s when the back feet of the appliance can slide underneath the flooring and rip it.

Fit the flooring all the way back

If there is a big gap above an appliance when it is pushed underneath a worktop you may not have a problem. Just try tilting the appliance back and lifting it up at the front to see how high the front feet can be raised. Is this enough to be able to pull it out over the new flooring? It is a lot easier though if the flooring goes all the way back.

So ideally if you are having flooring fitted in front of an appliance you should move the appliance out, and install the flooring all the way back underneath the appliance. Just make sure that the worktop is not fitted so low that there isn’t enough clearance under the worktop to allow the appliance to stand on the new flooring. This shouldn’t happen if the worktop is fitted to a standard height.

An example of what can happen if an appliance gets trapped

Here’s an example, with photo of the drastic action that had to be taken in order to get out a dishwasher that was well and truly trapped underneath the worktop and behind kitchen tiles. It also contains helpful advice and tips on how to get an appliance out if it is trapped Appliance stuck behind tiled floor

Updated January 31, 2019 First Published October 25, 2017

Device to replace concrete weight in washing machines

Washing machines are heavy. This is due to concrete blocks inside. If the drum wasn’t weighted down it would bang violently from side to side, and try to burst up through the lid during spin. Modern washing machines usually have 2 drum weights inside. One on top of the drum, and one either underneath or around the front of the drum.

New concept to replace the weights

I’ve just seen an article on the BBC News website about a new idea to replace concrete weights with plastic containers that can be filled with water. The idea involves replacing the concrete weights with empty plastic containers. The weight would be returned to the washing machine by filling them up with water once delivered to the customer. This would make washing machines up to a third lighter during transport. They estimate it could save around 44,625 tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions a year as well as saving millions on fuel.

It sounds like a simple and clever idea. I like the concept. I also love the idea of people thinking of ways to improve things from outside an industry. However, I’m not sure how they will be able to make it work.

Could plastic devices filled with water replace the concrete weights?

According to the article, drum weights in a washing machine typically weigh around 25Kg (just under 4 stone). So getting rid of this weight is genius apart from one major problem – water isn’t as heavy as concrete. The replacement blocks would have to be a fair bit bigger, but washing machines have never been so short of space inside.

A litre of water weighs 1 Kg. A typical washing machine would need up to 25 litres of water adding to equal the weight of previous concrete blocks. The picture shows my washing up bowl full of water. I measured out 10 Litres of water so it should weigh 10 Kg.

Therefore a washing machine with 25 kg of weights inside would need weights capable of holding the equivalent of two and a half washing up bowls of water. Larger capacity drums have forced manufacturers to increase the size of the outer drum. It’s already probably too close to the cabinet and other parts. There needs to be adequate room between the outer tub and other parts as well as the sides of the casing and the lid. These drums can bounce and bang around violently on spin and cause damage. They can’t increase the size of the cabinet to accommodate larger weights. So there’s no spare room.

Where there’s a will there’s a way

If the savings in carbon dioxide emissions and fuel were overwhelmingly desirable then appliance manufacturers might find a way to make it work. I think major redesigns would be needed. The outer drum could be double skinned to take some of the water. I also think the hollow weights would need to be part of the outer drum’s mould. Attaching plastic boxes to it would be fraught with danger of them coming loose.

Better built washing machines didn’t need so many weights

Up until roughly 25 years ago washing machines all had outer drums made of metal. They also had big aluminium back plates (see pic) holding the bearings. These parts weighed a decent amount on their own so they only needed a relatively small tub weight underneath.

It’s only since manufacturers changed to a plastic outer drum that extra weights have been needed. Plastic drums are so much lighter than the old metal parts that they now need multiple weights. Ironically this idea would have been very workable back then because washing machines had plenty of space inside. But the weight savings would be too little to bother with because they only had one weight.

Transit packaging needs space

Some space is also needed for the polystyrene packaging inside many washing machines. There may be no space left for transit packaging if the extra large plastic weights are fitted.

Washer dryers have even less room

Because of all the extra drying components in a washer dryer there is even less space available. It would be even harder to fit larger drum weights in washer dryers. See the picture to get an idea how crammed a typical washer dryer is inside. If manufacturers were only able to fit the new weights in washing machines, and needed separate manufacturing processes for washer dryers, it would dramatically increase costs of washer dryers.

Is it practical to fill the weights with water at point of delivery?

Even if manufacturers managed to fit the larger blocks inside there is another potential downside. It will complicate installation at the customer’s home. Extra costs will be incurred by customers paying to have one installed. Extra complications and effort will be involved for diy installations.

It will be difficult adding water to plastic weights underneath the drum. It would just be too inaccessible. So the new blocks would have to be fitted around the front of the drum (as well as on the top). They could both then be accessible for adding water with the lid removed. I’d also be concerned about a customer or installer spilling water when filling them. What if water spilled inside onto electrical parts? If not fully filled – could water move around inside causing shifting weight issues?

Leaking weights?

The devices would need to be leak-proof too. If one leaked it could flood the machine with water causing potential fires, or catastrophic damage. Lots of centrifugal forces are involved during spin trying to shake off drum weights. The current concrete ones are always coming loose and breaking as a result. If one of the water filled weights came loose the plastic could soon wear through and water would leak everywhere – a disaster. The only sensible option would be for any fillable weights to be part of the drum’s mould and not bolted on.

Summary

It’s a clever idea, but unless washing machine manufacturers radically redesign their machines to allow space for larger weights I can’t see them fitting inside. Also the practicalities of filling them up with water when delivered to the customer and potential disastrous water leakage into the machine if they leaked mean I struggle to see how it could be made to work.

Updated February 20, 2019 First Published July 20, 2017

Are there any downsides to Miele washing machines?

Their cost is the main disadvantage for most people. A higher quality washing machine needs more financial investment to purchase. They cost a lot more up front but they are supposed to be cheaper over the long run by lasting longer and breaking down less. However, although a Miele should be far less likely to need repairs, repairs are relatively expensive. Major parts can be very expensive indeed. If buying a Miele try to find one with a long guarantee. Typically they are guaranteed for 2, 5 or 10 years.

Repairs & Servicing

Like all premium brands Miele have a protective attitude towards their appliances and image. They strongly believe that only themselves and their dealers should repair their appliances to ensure the high standard of service they deserve. This is pretty normal amongst all niche high quality products, but it means there are very few independent washing machine repairers who repair them.

There is a small percentage of independent repairers who may be willing to have a look at one depending on the fault. But most independents do not repair Miele appliances. They don’t have the computer laptop and diagnostic software, or access to technical information so they might be unable to diagnose or even calibrate the machine.

You will need to use Miele engineers or dealers for repairs

I used to take great issue with this. I still think it can be counter productive in various ways, not least by causing Miele repairs to be more expensive due to lack of competition. But Miele do make a uniquely exceptional quality washing machine compared to the rest. In today’s economic climate in particular this is extremely brave – and thank goodness someone still does. Most manufacturers make massive compromises on the quality of their appliances in order to sell to the masses. Miele aren’t immune from the necessity to keep costs under control, and the inevitable compromises that can dictate. But they generally plough a solitary path down the “forever better” ethos. Like all high quality niche manufacturers they have to adopt certain ways of surviving and maintaining their brand image.

It has to be said also that most appliance manufacturers are now making their appliances more unrepairable by design, or by ludicrous spare parts prices, and by restricting technical information to independent repairers. So across the board appliances have become substantially less repairable than in the past. A counter point to this is that they are also generally very much cheaper to buy in real terms.

Longer guarantees

My advice would be that if investing in a Miele washing machine, you need to be prepared to use Miele engineers or dealers for any future repairs. It’s little different to how if you bought a Mercedes car you would expect servicing costs to be higher than for a Fiat. Most people shouldn’t encounter any serious breakdowns though, and Miele quality still can’t be beaten.

The minimum guarantee on a Miele appliance is 2 years, but many models have 5 year guarantees and some are guaranteed for 10 years. I have a Miele W3740 washing machine. I hasn’t given any trouble at all in over 11 years and still sounds like new to me. I would expect most people’s experience to be similar. Even high quality appliances can still break down, but if you buy a Miele model with a long guarantee you can get extra piece of mind.

Designed for equivalent of 20 years life

Miele have long since advertised their washing machines as designed to last 20 years. In relatively recent years they’ve had to amend it to, “tested for the equivalent of 20 years’ use”. They currently word it as follows –

During these tests appliances have to wash for 10,000 hours. This involves running approximately 5000 wash programmes. In terms of daily laundry this equates to about 5 programmes per week with an average run time of 2 hours for 20 years. ”

That should cover the majority of people. Though clearly if you use the washing machine 7 days a week that will equate to less than 20 years. Anyone washing more than 7 times a week could use up the 20 year lifespan several years short. Miele engineers can tell how many wash cycles their washing machines have done by plugging in their laptops. Ultimately their designed for slogan does not guarantee it will last 20 years.

It only says they design and test them to last 20 years running 5 days a week for 2 hours at a time. This is still however, massively better than any other washing machine. There’s no reason one shouldn’t last at least 10 – 15 years even under very heavy use. If so, I would still be satisfied that was good value for money.

Unsurprisingly not too many retailers sell Miele appliances, and some only stock a small selection. This is partially because most retailers follow the same path as manufacturers in that they just want to sell appliances in vast quantities – which you can’t do with Miele. John Lewis are the largest stockists of Miele appliances and share a similar quality ethos.

Miele build quality review

I have another article looking at the build quality of Miele washing machines

Miele washing machines at Peter Tyson

Updated June 24, 2019 First Published June 22, 2017

How to drain washing machine

If your washing machine is stuck full of water you need to drain it out before trying to repair it. If you are buying a new one instead, you still need to drain out all the water so you can move it. (If you’ve already drained the water out and want to troubleshoot why it didn’t empty read this – Washing Machine Won’t Drain Water)

The best methods for getting the water out of a washing machine are listed in suggested order. Try method 1 first. If that’s not working for you go on to method 2. If necessary fall back on the alternative methods.

I strongly suggest that if you want to prevent getting in a tangle – read the whole article carefully before attempting anything. You will find the whole process easier and less fraught with problems if you’ve read it all.

If the washer went dead during the cycle

First though, if the washing machine has gone dead leaving it full of water it may be worth checking this article washing machine is dead wont start. If you get the washer going again it should pump the water out itself. If you can’t get it running or the washer is running but won’t pump out then follow the rest of this advice.

Watch out for new plumbing installations

Have you just plumbed the washer into a u-bend? Or moved house and connected it to an existing u-bend? If so, and the first time you used it the washing machine didn’t pump out there might be a simple fix. The u-bend device has a blanked end that needs cutting off when new. Or a blanking piece may have been refitted when the last person disconnected their washing machine – washer doesn’t drain after being moved

Washing machine pumps

Learn about washing machine pumps. Common faults. Where is the pump filter? Buy washing machine pumps

1: Drain via pump filter drain tube

As an engineer, the first thing I would do is disconnect the washing machine, pull it out, and try to drain the water out by laying the drain hose down into washing up bowl. However, a washing machine full of water is extremely heavy and this may not be appropriate for many people. A much slower but less involved method might be worth trying first.

There might be a pump filter at the front, behind a small flap or behind the kick strip (check instruction book). If yours has a small draining tube at the side of the filter this is the easiest way to get the water out. It can be slow and laborious but not too messy. If no water comes out of the drain tube, or the trickle is extremely slow, there is likely to be a sock or some other blockage preventing draining. You will need to be extremely patient – or take a different approach.

If you don’t have a draining tube in the pump filter, or it’s just far too slow, you will need to try method 2. (Method 4 however focuses on using the pump filter but is a bit risky unless well prepared and strong).

2: Draining the water out

The washing machine needs pulling out first. This can be difficult when full of water and laundry (best way to pull washing machine out). Once the machine is out, take the drain hose and lower the end into a bowl. In most cases the water will then siphon into the bowl.

If the drain hose is pushed into a standpipe you can just pull it out. However, most washing machines are now connected to the u-bend under the sink. If yours is connected there you can easily unscrew it. Note that with the drain hose disconnected from the u-bend, any water poured down the sink will flood into the cupboard. You can try blocking it with a dishcloth (or similar). Alternatively put the plug in the sink or just ensure no one uses the sink until the drain hose is reconnected.

Once unscrewed from the u-bend you will need to pull the drain hose out of the cupboard to be able to lower it into a bowl. If they didn’t drill a large enough hole in the side of the cupboard you might find the drain hose won’t pull through. If so you will have to take out the plastic spigot piece from the end of the hose.

When lowering into a bowl, if you find water doesn’t siphon out or it is extremely slow there is probably a sock or similar stuck inside the machine. Either that or the filter is completely blocked. If so you would need to try alternative methods described below.

Get your appliance repaired

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Alternative ways of draining the water

The following suggestions are more involved and less attractive. Make sure you have plenty of bath towels close by, and maybe a mop and bucket. Always disconnect washing machine from electricity supply!

Siphoning or scooping water out

Some of the water could be drained by siphoning the water directly from the drum using a tube, or just manually ladling it out. This could be an option worth considering in the right circumstances although it would only drain the water down to the bottom of the inner drum. There’s a lot more more water underneath the drum than you might expect.

However, it could get enough of it out to make the washing machine lighter and more manoeuvrable. It might also assist in draining via the main drain hose or the pump filter if a blockage is causing a very slow drain. You would need a washing machine that allows the door to open when water is inside the machine.

Make sure the water level isn’t above the lip of the drum. This is unlikely with modern washing machines but some very old washing machines may have higher water levels. Finally, do not try to force the door open. If it will not open, forcing it may well break something and cause more problems and expense.

Never lay a washing machine down if it has water inside. Water could seep out onto electrical parts and cause big problems.

Draining via the pump filter

As an engineer I developed a crude but effective method of draining the water directly through the pump filter. If there’s no pump filter then forget this method (where is the pump filter?)

Also, don’t try this without a second person to help hold the washing machine. Otherwise it could slip over backwards, or drop onto your hands – especially on a tiled floor.

My method involved pulling the machine forward far enough to be able to tilt it back. Preferably against the kitchen worktop. I then placed a (strong) washing up bowl under the machine under where the pump filter is. With the washing machine’s front resting on top of the bowl, I then carefully partially opened or unscrewed the filter and allowed the water to pour into the bowl.

Warning: this is messy – and the water can come out very fast! When the bowl is full the filter can be tightened back up and the bowl emptied. By repeating I can drain the washing machine quite quickly and without having to pull it right out. Don’t try if the washer is full of hot water.

Be warned that if you get it wrong, and the filter comes completely out or the washer falls forward you will get a big flood of water gushing all over the place. Make sure you have loads of towels ready to mop up. Do not try this method if you have laminated floor which can be badly damaged if flooded with water and only use it if you can’t get the water out using the other methods.

Washing machine pump filter stuck?

I’ve had cases where the filter appeared to be jammed and wouldn’t come out. It proved to be an under wire from a bra or another obstruction that was entangled in it preventing it from unscrewing. I had to remove the main sump hose leading into the pump and retrieve the obstruction from there.

This then allowed me to get the filter out. Warning: You can’t do this if the washing machine is full of water. If you can’t drain out the water through the drain hose or pump filter tube and the filter won’t come off you will need to drain as much out as possible directly from the drum as described earlier. You may well be better getting in an engineer – Book white goods appliance repairs.

Once you’ve drained the washing machine

Check this article – washing machine won’t pump water out

Further pump troubleshooting

Updated February 2, 2017 First Published October 6, 2016

How to clear a blocked pressure system

A blocked pressure system on a washing machine can result in various different symptoms. Before deciding to fixing this fault you need to have correctly diagnosed it. It’s not something to speculatively do in the hope that it will fix the fault because the pressure system isn’t always easy to get to and all symptoms have other potential causes.

Here is a list of common symptoms of a blocked pressure system –

Washing machine won’t go into a spin and after a few minutes of successfully draining the water there is a click and the machine stops. Sometimes if the washing machine is left a while the air slowly escapes and turns off the pressure switch. It will then spin OK – until next time
Washing machine overfills
Produces an error code mid-cycle
Won’t take in water and starts washing with no water inside (may energise the heater!)

Note that all of these symptoms can also be caused by various different faults. To properly diagnose and understand if there is a blockage you need to carefully read and understand how the pressure system in a washing machine works – How a washing machine controls water levels | Faults on pressure system.

The most common symptom is the first one listed above. If this happens there is an easy way to see if it is caused by a blockage. Important: These exact same symptoms can be caused if the water isn’t pumping out properly (or at all) or even a faulty motor. You need to establish if it hasn’t gone into spin because it hasn’t drained the water out, or because it has drained it out but there’s a blocked pressure system preventing the message getting to the program control. Did you hear the water pumping away OK as normal? Unless sure, call an engineer

Testing for a blocked pressure system

There is a quick test that may indicate a blockage. First drain all water from the machine (How to drain the washing machine). With the washing machine totally disconnected from the mains remove the lid and carefully twist and pull the small rubber pressure tubing away from the pressure switch. If you hear a click when the tube comes off this is the trapped air being released. The washing machine should now spin. However, do not let the washing machine take in any water with this tube disconnected because it will over fill and flood!

Now try gently blowing down the tube. Is there any resistance? If you can’t blow down the tube it is blocked but if there is enough water in the drum the water will cause resistance and that’s not the same thing. If it is water you will be able to hear bubbling water when you blow hard.

Remember, if you take off the pressure tubing whilst the washer is full of water you will hear a click, and will feel resistance when blowing down the tube – not because of a blockage in the pressure system – because of the presence of water. If there is resistance, and it isn’t water, blow harder and see if you can clear the blockage. Sometimes a solid blockage can need a lot of pressure to clear through it. If you blow down and clear something so that you have a free passage of air then you have temporarily cleared it. I’ve known this method clear the fault for a several wash cycles, a few months, or even totally, but most of the time it will only clear it for a while and needs fixing properly asap.

Clearing the blockage properly

close up of gunge in pressure chamber The only way to properly clear a blockage is to remove the pressure chamber bottle and thoroughly clean it under the tap. If you look at the example picture you can see the gunge is caked inside the bottle and there is no way this blockage can be permanently cleared no matter how many times you blow down the tubing.

As the part is usually located deep inside the machine attached to the main tub you will normally need to partially dismantle the machine to get to it. Don’t forget to check the hole leading into the bottle where it attaches to the drum for blockages too.

Warning: If you leave the small pressure tubing off either the pressure chamber bottle or the pressure switch, or the tubing isn’t air tight when re-fitted then the washing machine will overfill.

Finding the pressure chamber

I’m not able to give specific stripping down instructions. All washing machines are different, and even different washing machines of the same brand can have different methods. The best way though is normally from the front so it’s usually a question of removing the main front panel. This always involves unpeeling the door seal from the rim, which is usually secured with a metal band or spring. Then removing the kick strip at the base of the machine to reveal 3 screws holding the front panel on.

There could be 3 at the top of the panel on older machines which would involve removing the soap drawer and possibly the control panel. Most though are intelligently designed with studs under the control panel that holes in the top of the front panel locate into, so with the screws at the bottom removed the panel should pull down and off. Be aware that the door interlock is attached to the front panel with short wires so be careful not to cause the wires to be pulled. The interlock can easily be broken.

DIY Repair tips

You shouldn’t be messing with washing machines unless you are experienced at repairing and maintaining things and know what you are doing around electrics. Here is some vital advice – 3 good pre repair tips | DIY Washing machine repair warnings: 8 things you should never do

What causes a blocked pressure system?

Blockages are caused by a build up of grease, bacteria and slime and or limescale. Check out how to prevent this in my article here – Causes of grease, slime and black mould inside washing machines If you have a blockage already it is very unlikely you will be able to clear it with maintenance washes or washing machine cleaning products. Believe me I’ve tried.

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