The most common causes of a tumble dryer not heating up are either a faulty heating element, or a faulty stat (or TOC). A TOC is an acronym for thermal overload cutout and it’s essentially a heat activated fuse. Other common causes are faulty connections, and float switch or condenser sensor faults in condenser dryers.
What does a stat or TOC? look like and what do they do?

They both look very similar on most tumble dryers. They tend to be small and round (about the size of a 5p coin) with two wires connected either side.
A TOC or thermostat should never be by-passed. They are there to stop serious overheating and a dryer could catch fire if run with one by-passed.
Where are the stats and TOCs?
Generally speaking if you can’t see one by removing a lid or back panel I’d advise not stripping it down – especially if a condenser dryer – as many dryers can be a right pain to strip and reassemble if you aren’t an engineer.
How to test a stat or TOC
They are tested with a simple continuity test meter. If there is no circuit from one tag to the other it’s generally because it’s failed.
Will replacing a TOC it fix the fault?
Not necessarily. Although these devices can fail for no apparent reason, they usually fail because of overheating due to another fault. In other words, a failed TOC could just be the symptom of an overheating fault in the same way as a normal fuse in a plug is the symptom of a different fault. If a TOC has gone you need to work out why..
Sometimes they can go for no apparent reason. On vented dryers a blocked or severely kinked vent hose can also cause overheating. Stopping a dryer mid-cycle can cause the overheating stats to fail on some dryers so don’t stop one mid-cycle (see don’t stop a dryer mid-cycle).
Some basic vented White Knight tumble dryers (and possibly others) have a red button on the back which can reset a cut out by pushing it in once it’s cooled down, (it should click when pressed if it has tripped). Again, if this keeps happening there must be something causing it, which needs proper investigation by an engineer.
Choose from the following list of appliance repairers..
Faulty Heating element
Another cause for a dryer not heating is of course a faulty heating element. However, replacing an element in a dryer is often much more involved than most people would think.
Many tumble dryers would need completely taking to pieces. Some simple vented dryers though have heating elements that are more easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious breakage.
Some can just have a small compact heating element inside a metal housing, which slots in and out of the back easily – but most others have large heating elements inside, which aren’t accessible without stripping the dryer down.
A faulty element could be obvious by being physically broken or damaged, but if not, the only way to test one is with a continuity test meter to check that there is a complete circuit all the way through it.
To see what tumble dryer elements look like, and the variety of different types fitted, look at this Buy dryer elements and heaters
Micro switches and sensors
Condenser dryer float switches: If you have a condenser dryer it will be designed to cut off the heater via a float switch if the drawer or compartment holding the condensed water gets full. If the dryer stops heating check the compartment has been emptied of water – although most condenser dryers now should have some way of informing the user that the drawer needs emptying such as via a flashing light. It is possible for one of these float switches to go faulty, or stick, therefore triggering the warning when the chamber is empty preventing the heating element from switching on.
Summary of common causes of a tumble dryer not getting hot
- The heating elements can fail (open circuit) or have a faulty connection
- There are cut-outs and stats that can trip out or go open circuit (discussed at length above)
- Faulty connections and burned wires
- Condenser dryers can have float switches or sensors which cut the heater off if the water hasn’t been emptied out of the condenser drawer, check the water is emptied, these sensors and switches can also go faulty
Buy heating element
Price match guarantee
Repairs
Fixed-price repairs, Pay monthly options, Repair & protect your whole appliance..
Save Money Now
Subscribe to Which? today and start saving money now. Subscription offers often available.
Spares
Spares4Appliances is a spares company run by repair engineers who understand all about spare parts for appliances.
Hi Chris, I’ve not dealt with faults on those but as far as I know the heating pump is just a fridge-type compressor which stores and redistributes heat which would otherwise be wasted. It should still use a heating element and stats. Some of these modern dryers can be quite complex to repair, certainly compared with old school types.
THERMAL CUT-OUT !!!
Thanks very much……..simple repair
Thanks Neil, just keep a close eye on it as they are only supposed to cut out if a fault causes it to overheat. They can just fail for no apparent reason but if it happens again soon you would need to investigate what’s causing the overheating.
Hi there and thanks for a great article. This has been a learning curve for me – my Whirlpool AWZ8577 condensing tumble dryer stopped heating. Checked the NTC thermal limiter and it’s fine so went into the heating element and that’s where the fault is – sadly, my knowledge became a bit sticky here – I could see two thermostats (which are fine) and one NTC sensor (again, it’s fine) but a similar but white part which was burned out – had absolutely no clue what it was but thanks to your article, I’m guessing it’s a TOC?
Ordered a new heating element, fitted it but still no heat coming through – I’ve gone through everything in your article but can’t think of where else to check – have you any suggestions please?
Alison, have you replaced the burned out TOC? A TOC is a thermal fuse, if it’s gone the heater won’t work.
Hi Andy, I am having a simular problem with my Hoover VHV 680C. It is not heating up, I have fitted a new complete heater element, stat and thermal cut out essembly. There apears to be no power to the unit from the PCB behind the control/function knob. There is power to it but nothing appears to be coming out. I can see a couple of relays do these sometimes go or can you point me in the right direction.
Hello Stewart. The heating element, stat and thermal cutout should all be tested with a meter to see if they are faulty or not. I honestly can’t recommend replacing any part at all because a fault has to be traced using a meter or by physically seeing that something is broken before replacing any part. It could all turn out to be caused by a broken wire somewhere or a faulty jammed float switch.
Hi Andy
I have a white knight 44aw reverse vented dryer, blows cold and time clock twist and starts but it doesn’t count down. If that was faulty would it make the dryer not heat up?
Hello Matt. If it’s an old fashioned mechanical timer and it stops winding down I would expect it to keep drying indefinitely.
I have a very old dryer. Right now I’m looking for the stat or the TOC, but I have no idea where to even look. The dryer stopped heating a few days ago so we have been hang drying our laundry in the house. I think we will just hire a repairman because we need our dryer working ASAP.