The most common causes of a tumble dryer not heating up are either a faulty heating element, or a faulty stat (or TOC). A TOC is an acronym for thermal overload cutout and it’s essentially a heat activated fuse. Other common causes are faulty connections, and float switch or condenser sensor faults in condenser dryers.
What does a stat or TOC? look like and what do they do?
A TOC or StatThey both look very similar on most tumble dryers. They tend to be small and round (about the size of a 5p coin) with two wires connected either side.
A TOC or thermostat should never be by-passed. They are there to stop serious overheating and a dryer could catch fire if run with one by-passed.
Where are the stats and TOCs?
Generally speaking if you can’t see one by removing a lid or back panel I’d advise not stripping it down – especially if a condenser dryer – as many dryers can be a right pain to strip and reassemble if you aren’t an engineer.
How to test a stat or TOC
They are tested with a simple continuity test meter. If there is no circuit from one tag to the other it’s generally because it’s failed.
Will replacing a TOC it fix the fault?
Not necessarily. Although these devices can fail for no apparent reason, they usually fail because of overheating due to another fault. In other words, a failed TOC could just be the symptom of an overheating fault in the same way as a normal fuse in a plug is the symptom of a different fault. If a TOC has gone you need to work out why..
Sometimes they can go for no apparent reason. On vented dryers a blocked or severely kinked vent hose can also cause overheating. Stopping a dryer mid-cycle can cause the overheating stats to fail on some dryers so don’t stop one mid-cycle (see don’t stop a dryer mid-cycle).
Some basic vented White Knight tumble dryers (and possibly others) have a red button on the back which can reset a cut out by pushing it in once it’s cooled down, (it should click when pressed if it has tripped). Again, if this keeps happening there must be something causing it, which needs proper investigation by an engineer.
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Faulty Heating element
Another cause for a dryer not heating is of course a faulty heating element. However, replacing an element in a dryer is often much more involved than most people would think.
Many tumble dryers would need completely taking to pieces. Some simple vented dryers though have heating elements that are more easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious breakage.
Some can just have a small compact heating element inside a metal housing, which slots in and out of the back easily – but most others have large heating elements inside, which aren’t accessible without stripping the dryer down.
A faulty element could be obvious by being physically broken or damaged, but if not, the only way to test one is with a continuity test meter to check that there is a complete circuit all the way through it.
To see what tumble dryer elements look like, and the variety of different types fitted, look at this Buy dryer elements and heaters
Micro switches and sensors
Condenser dryer float switches: If you have a condenser dryer it will be designed to cut off the heater via a float switch if the drawer or compartment holding the condensed water gets full. If the dryer stops heating check the compartment has been emptied of water – although most condenser dryers now should have some way of informing the user that the drawer needs emptying such as via a flashing light. It is possible for one of these float switches to go faulty, or stick, therefore triggering the warning when the chamber is empty preventing the heating element from switching on.
Summary of common causes of a tumble dryer not getting hot
- The heating elements can fail (open circuit) or have a faulty connection
- There are cut-outs and stats that can trip out or go open circuit (discussed at length above)
- Faulty connections and burned wires
- Condenser dryers can have float switches or sensors which cut the heater off if the water hasn’t been emptied out of the condenser drawer, check the water is emptied, these sensors and switches can also go faulty
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Sorry about that Mike, come to think of it I do remember now that some of them were flat. Ordering the part could be a waste of time and if it is that’s gonna be annoying but I hope (and presume) you agree with the logic that the part is listed as being the one you want, it has a different price to the other stat (which the pic looks like), it’s listed specifically as a 1 shot cut-out, and if there’s only two devices like this on the dryer why would there be 3 separate parts like that? Also, there’s a comment on the part from a customer who says he bought the part as a replacement TOC (thermal overload cut-out) for a different model and had to modify it to get it to fit but it worked.
Therefore, with all evidence pointing to it being the right part other than the photo it seems a fair bet that it might just be an incorrect photo. Please let us know what happens and if it is the wrong part I will let them know personally to get them to change it.
I have ordered the part and will see if it is in any way substantially the same as the original part. If it is not then I shall return it for a refund and let you know.
With my electronics ‘hat’ on, I always get very worried when I read comments such as you repeat. With a safety critical part the fitting is not the whole story. As they had to modify the part to get it to fit they have no way of telling if the safety response of the device has been maintained and matches that of the original device and hence have no way of telling whether their machine is safe to operate! They say it works, but they only mean the machine operates as they are highly unlikely to be able to test the safety response as that takes specialist test equipment that even I do not have access to. It’s like someone saying they’ve repaired their lights by fitting a 13 Amp fuse instead of a 2 Amp and assuming it’s fixed because the light came on again and the fuse didn’t immediately blow! Plus there is always a reason for such items to fail, in my case I discovered that the tubing carrying the ‘waste’ air out had gathered lint fluff over the years so reducing the free flow of the air out of the machine (vents are almost always outside and when was the last time you checked the free flow of air out of it?) and hence causing excessive heat internally. So I had to virtually dismantle the machine, quite easy for me fortunately, and clean out all the ducting. Add to that the fact that no user manual I have seen makes any mention of cleaning out the internal ducting, presumably as the manufacturer sees that as a service operation and would be chargeable.
Yes Mike, it’s not advisable to do what the guy did, they are potentially different fitting and not interchangeable in order to prevent the wrong ones being fitted. It’s possible they are set to trip at the same temperature though in which case I can’t see a problem as long as the trip temperature is printed on them and matches.
If not he could now have one which trips too early or too late. Of course some people would be daft enough to bypass one altogether – nasty!
They may or may not be set to the same trip temperature but the thermal flow to the device is also critical. That flow through the casing and ‘fluid’ medium (the air usually in these instances) is an integral part of the design process and is tested before going into production. If the flow rate of heat energy is lower than the design requirement than it may not trip and might be a potential fire hazard! If the thermal flow is too great then it may well trip unnecessarily and cause unrequired ‘failures’. That is why safety parts should always be replaced with manufacturer approved parts that give the same degree of protection as the OEM part fitted in manufacture. And fitted in the same way as is done in manufacture.
I got the impression all he had to do was drill different fixing holes or extend the wires because the angle of the tabs for the wires was different. If it was seated in exactly the same hole the only issue is if it was going to trip at the same temperature or not. I would always advise to use the proper part though, particularly when the part is designed to prevent a fire.
Well, the part has arrived – and is totally different from the original. But it is also different from the thermostat originally fitted, so may be the right part that has been updated. However, the mounting flange is at the wrong angle to if you use the mounting holes provided the leads are too short, so won’t reach. The only way of mounting it will be to drill two holes and use self-tapping screws to mount it 90 degrees round so the wires reach properly withoutr being stretched.
So it is not a direct replacement, though it can be made to fit, which should not be necessary.
Futher, the returns policy states “No returns are accepted back without prior authorisation and must be UNOPENED and in ‘AS NEW’ condition” (Their parenthesis and upper case). That means that anyone who has to open the packaging to check whether it fits (everyone?) will never be able to claim a refund! To check the fit you have to offer it up to the mounting, so you have to open the plasic package so you can do a test fit. So I have to keep it anyway because of that restriction! I’ll keep it to hand as a spare.
Hi Mike, that’s exactly what the guy on the comment said, he said you needed to either extend the wires or drill holes so it can be lined up properly. Is there any thing on the part which indicated a temperature it’s calibrated for?
Also, the disclaimer is only to put people off who order parts, fit them, then realise they misdiagnosed the fault and try to get their money back. If the part is not as described on the web site then without doubt you are entitled to a full refund under the sale of goods act. Opening the part and even attempting to fit it is often when you find out it’s the wrong part.
Hu Andy what could be if my Electrolux EDH3498RDL Free Standing 9Kg Reverse Action Condenser Tumble Dryer stoped drying?
Everything is working ok only no heating.
No offence Chris, but that’s exactly why I wrote this article and part two (linked at the base of it) so all my help is in the articles.
hi yes but this tumble dryer did have any heating element its got heating pump